Signaller69

I've gone about as far as I want with the Liliput/Bachmann BRT hoppers now, but one of my Lima versions needed new advertising hoardings to replace worn versions. One of the slightly more obscure brands advertised on the prototypes was "Jamie Stuart Scotch Whisky", which, having no complicated logos was fairly easy to produce on my old computer and print onto white transfer film. Ironically, Liliput did cover this brand on one of their wagons, an online photo of which helped with the colouring as the prototype photo I was using as reference was Black & White. Awaiting loading at Dunnington with the 5 Liliput/Bachmann wagons:

All 5 (so far) of my Liliput/Bachmann BRT hoppers have now had their resin underframe parts and cast metal brake shoes fitted. The final job is fitting some improved Oleo type buffers. The buffer housings are ok, but the push in heads are rather poor by modern standards, so rather than go for my usual choice of Lanarkshire Models (LMS) cast buffers I have used MJT 16" heads (conveniently in a 20 pack) with small brass tube collars. (By some fluke, these were left overs from some model boat handrail stanchions and fit perfectly over the shanks and into the buffer housings.) The end result looks a lot finer!

I wonder when polythene wrapping of pallet loads became common? 1980s perhaps? Or later?

And still a better job than I could have done!

After a few casting sessions, various bits and pieces are being painted, mainly various loads and other details, plus another EFE lorry conversion almost done.

A few projects on the go, including producing resin lower hopper parts to detail the Bachmann / Liliput BRT Grain Hoppers: Also in resin, some pallets of bagged grain, ready for loading into BR vans, which have been painted this evening (the brick carrying tramway wagons are for another project): And an EFE AEC lorry given a plasticard flatbed for another load of bagged grain (a "Days Gone" resin casting): Complete with Drivers Mate on top attending to the tarpaulin. All are still works in progress.

Yes think it might work as that! Not sure I could repeat it if I wanted too, nothing worse than non setting resin once it has been poured into the mould.....

A B2 perchance? Edit: *sorry, about a page late to the party. I'll fetch my coat.....*

Interestingly, having never had an issue before I have now experienced this very phenomenon. One casting out of well over 100. Whatever else was cast in the same batch seems to have been ok. A dozen or so of this exact casting have been fine, strangely this odd one on the right has not set solid and expanded on all axes can be seen. I have pressed it back into shape but it just bulges out again (it has the consistency of a wine gum). I can only put it down to a small amount of resin that has not been mixed quite as thoroughly as it should. Most odd.

Just a note on my resin experience from the last few days; the creamy coloured resin (as supplied in the starter kits linked earlier) is slightly less viscous than the black resin, meaning it pours and spreads a little more easily into all nooks and crannies more easily, thus needing less probing for air bubbles etc. However both are similar in detail definition. Thus for small and/or complex shapes I would recommend using the creamy colour over the black resin.

My name is Martyn and I have a Type 2 addiction. Not sure there is a cure.

I'm some way off the mark, by, erm, about 510, give or take.... I model early 70s diesels but strangely, don't have a "Duff" at this moment in time. Martyn.

I don't think anyone would bat an eyelid; Bachmann did a version of their 108 as a Strathclyde liveried 107 in any case so there is a precedent!

That looks effective John, I've not heard of that method. I have used cheap acrylic paint sets from pound shops on a few projects, they adhere straight to plastic very well and can be reworked for a reasonable time with damp cotton buds or a cloth. Martyn.

A Bachmann re-do.

Thanks Mike, I agree a new model is overdue, although I like fettling the older stuff I have to say. The Lima and Hornby wagons have slight issues too, the Lima is too tall due to an overly deep chassis and the Hornby bodysides are too tall istr, and again lack underframe detail. Dropping the Lima version on Cambrian suspension units means they fit in quite comfortably with Liliput / Bachy types, being of different body styles in any case, the slight length difference not being apparent in my view. (Bachmann left, Lima right): Martyn.

The first 2 wagons to receive new lower hoppers are done, although new buffer heads are in the post to replace the rather chunky originals, which pull out. This one is a 1970s Liliput model, a bit battered around the edges. It has had the moulded frame for bodyside hoardings removed as well as the hopper mod: Below is a 1990/2000s Bachmann version; apart from the tension lock mount (now removed) and better livery application it is identical to the Liliput 'as bought' version (and currently retains the bodyside framework in this case; I have some spare Liliput hoardings somewhere): Given their age, despite being about 1.5mm too short I think they hold up quite well now.

Thanks Paul, I had considered something along those lines if I do sideframes, where the top silicone part (which forms the axle box holes inside the frame) locates via pegs moulded as part of the upper and lower moulds, to ensure correct alignment every time. Do you use the sideframes as a standalone or mount them onto sub frames (eg MJT) as Martin intends? If the former, do you add anything to add strength to the frame? Thanks, Martyn.

Only seen photos of class 100, 101, 105 and 107 (and one or two of the occasion(s) a Class 126 was used, via other sources). As Bomag says 108s were not used in the area at the time of the Landcruise trains.

Hi Martin, Hmmm, no I've not noticed any expanding, but the heat generated during curing must cause a small amount of expansion I would have thought? I'm sure I read in the blurb with my resin that it actually shrinks by a tiny amount though? I tend to overfill very slightly and draw the flat edge of a spatula over the mould once filled though, as the resin is JUST starting to cure, so that the liquid excess forms very thin "flash" around the edges of each piece - this prevents the "meniscus" effect of curved surface edges and ensures the cast part isn't deeper than it should be. If anything, I find the resin then settles back very slightly. You could try part filling the mould and when set, add a second layer over this to the level of the mould? How are you going about axle end location? Drilling out individual axle boxes? Martyn.

Thanks Craig, always handy, mine still awaits finishing touches to be honest. Although mine is based on Auld Reekie c.1970 when used mainly for Youth training and group holidays etc, in which condition I was fortunate enough to stumble upon several photos online. Hope someone buys the Vital Spark, sad to see it not in use. Martyn.

No problem, I use MB Fibreglass for supplies, with reliable and quick delivery; links below are from this company. This is the silicone rubber I am currently using: https://www.mbfg.co.uk/gp-3481-f.html Black PU casting resin: https://www.mbfg.co.uk/polycraft-fc-3680-black-polyurethane.html Pigments for mixing into the resin are also available in different colours. https://www.mbfg.co.uk/polyurethane-lr-pigments.html However, the Moulding & Casting starter packs are good value as they include mixing bowls, stirrers, disposable gloves (as the materials can cause irritation in some cases) and good instructions with lots of tips etc. although the resin is usually the creamy colour, fast curing type (2.5 - 3 mins). https://www.mbfg.co.uk/polycraft-moulding-casting-resin-kit-small.html (As a rough guide the small set will be enough for a couple of moulds approx 8cm x 8cm x 2cm approx, which will probably be enough to do a DMU power and trailer set undergubbins, depending on layout). All the kits, silicone rubber and resins are available in different quantities and curing times, bare in mind the raw product (ie as supplied, prior to mixing) shelf life is about 6 months, so it is best to buy quantities you are likely to use in this time. Obviously all products are extremely messy to work with in their liquid forms so care needs to be taken. Mixing needs to be accurate (digital scales are a good investment) and thorough, and there will most likely be some wastage and failures during use. (Mixing the correct amount of resin to "just" fill the mould becomes a bit of a holy grail, as does pouring, poking air bubbles out of recesses and removing excess resin from the surface of the mould, before it cures!) Usual disclaimer, I have no connection other than as a satisfied customer and other suppliers are no doubt available. Martyn.

A big "thankyou" to Brian McCulloch for sending me one of his exquisite Braeside Models hand finished, small batch, Highland 4mm scale "But & Ben" Cottages. Absolutely superb. Seen here posed on my "Dunnington" layout, but will become part of "Crinan" in due course, once the Club is open again. Martyn.

The air bubble issue appears resolved with using black PU resin, the extra minute or two curing time allows for poking all the recesses, making all the difference. I have thus been able to cast and make up a couple of hopper units. As it is handed, the small letter 'V' cast into this end of the hopper shows the Vacuum Cylinder end. The brake linkage has an (invisible here) shaped piece of handrail wire embedded to add strength, and further wire forming the retaining loops around it at either end, along with the horizontal wire through the hopper outlet to which the hopper operating wheels will be attached after cutting to length. And in situ: A more normal viewing angle: And seen from the other side: Painting and weathering should make it all stand out a bit more. Much as I would like to cut away the chunky moulded handbrake lever and replace it with something finer, I don't want to risk damage to the rather nicely moulded axlebox and suspension area so it will have to stay as it is.

Hi Gibbo, I'm not sure, PU resin is the Devil's own formulation when it spills, it just has time to run everywhere under gravity before setting firm to whatever it is touching, forget any hope of cleaning it off a table cloth, or anything else for that matter, even soft plastics that no glue known to man will adhere too (guess how I found out!). Putting the mould on top of a washing machine on a spin cycle while the resin sets helps remove the air bubbles in much the same way you describe, hopefully with less risk of redistributing the contents! Martyn.