neilkirby

Something else I have tried on a whim. A lattice post signal based on an LSWR example but not really dimensioned, other than by eye, just to see if it would print. The lattices are ridiculessly fine, being .2mm x .15mm thick! but still they printed. There is a small 'wobble' about 30mm up from the base, but that could be down to me handling it before it was cured. But not bad for the first test print I will try another one , but will put a frame around the lower half so I can get it into the curing machine without touching it, and will see if that comes out any better

Another print today of something I have been working on. A 7F just about to pick up a token from a Whitaker exchange apparatus

Hi, For some time I have been designing my own SDJR stuff, that I have posted sporadically of various parts of RMWeb. I was making what I thought was good progress when last october my Elegoo Saturn decided to stop working correctly. Months of frustration and wasted resin followed, and the machine nearly went out the window a couple of times, but I have now started successfully printing again. Below are two of my most recent prints, a rivetted version of the Johnson tender top which I designed last year, this is to be fitted to the Bachmann model, so that I can better portray the SDJR 'Armstrong' 4Fs 44557-44561: 2nd is my latest model that I did a couple of weeks ago . This is my take on the Wells no.9 brake van, the chassis is pure conjecture seeing as only the body survives, and there are no drawing that I am aware of: Another stalled project that I am hoping to get going is models of the S&D Sentinels, and Joyce as shown below from when the printer was working last year. I think I now have a viable chassis design to go under them, I have printed to prototypes and just have to assemble them to see if they work!: I have other things on the go including various types of S&D brake vans and 2 road vans, and a G9BS boiler to fit the Bachmann 7f. I am currently at work and may post more pictures when back home. Regards, Neil

Has anyone else seen the truely awfuly commercial for 'Readers Digest Equity Release' currently showing on at least one UK cable channel. It is jaw droppingly bad! Now I am not saying they done it on the cheap, but it's like someone came up with the idea of using a CGI LNER Pacific, but got so far and realised that they could not animate the driving wheels and valve gear, so just gave up and left them off. This is the result! So a 4-0-2 then ? Regards, Neil

It's a shame that Hornby's 'Attention to detail' didn't stretch as far as making sure the smokebox door was on correctly for a publicly film! Still I have seen far, far worse on a recent cable tv channel recently! (Yes, Readers Digest I am looking at you!) Neil

In the early 80's when Airfix was independent of the Hornby group they sold a Scalextric compatible range of cars under the Airfix/MRRC brand. We had these in the shop I worked at, (and at £4 each were a fair bit cheaper IIRC) when the first Airfix kits of the custom cars turned up I checked a standard MRRC white Cortina MK1 car and compared it to the customised Airfix kit, it was the same body shell. So we built a few of a hybrid of the 2, MRRC chassis with bright yellow Airfix body, the various customisation fitting and decals of a dragon. These sold like hot cakes!. The others released at the same time were a Zodiac and a Capri. Neil

When I used to work at Bec Models we had a '0' train running the length of the window during opening hours. I don't know how many miles were done, but the first we knew of an issue was when the 2 or 3 Lima 16t wagons started to derail, as this problem increased further examination revealed that the axlebox holes had slowly worn upwards until the wheel flanges were wearing away on the underside of the body Regards, Neil

The question of cheap kit or more expensive RTR is an interesting question, that is broader than just this mink, and largely applies across the wider modelling spectrum. I think is down to the type of modeller you are, If you enjoy building kits, then the answer as to what you will purchase is obvious. But also something to consider is as the modelling demographic changes, more and more of us find ourselves 'Money rich but time poor' so If you just want to see your lovely new authentic wagon on your layout, or you would prefer to spend your limited modelling time doing scenery or whatever then the purchase choice is more and more going to be the later option. regards, Neil

Hi Jim, Thanks for the tip, I will check that out. Since I posted this I tried a print in standard resin and it came out perfectly formed, but too brittle. I am going to try mixing the 2 resins 50/50 and see what happens, if this works it won't be a bad thing as if anything the flexible is a little too flexible. Regards, Neil

Hi, I also have a Saturn and am using 'ABS Like' a few weeks ago I was nearly there, but seem to have got further away from a good print. All my stuff now is pulling off the supports and sticking to the FEP, I have added about 50% more supports than I started with, and am slowly increasing the exposure time, without success. Would you be so good as to share your settings either in Chitu or Lychee so I can hopefully see where I am going wrong Please. This is where I was: This Is where I am now: It's driving me mad! Regards, Neil

Hi again, More in keeping with the theme of the subject, I just remembered that I played with 'Colouring in' the design using the MSPaint3D program. Here is the result: Regards, Neil

Hi, Thanks for the mention, that image is quite an old vesion, below is the current version, all done in TinkerCad: Regards, Neil

hi, Thanks for the interest I used 3mm x 1mm N42 Neodymium magnets, that I have had for a while. Yesterday I looked on the website again and ordered some 2x1 and some 1x1, then drew up some 3d parts to suit. Obviously these will not be as strong as the 3x1, but I will print them out and see what they are like Regards, Neil

I originally took the dimensions from a Bachmann coupling, and I have fitted some to Oxford wagons I have not tried either Hornby or Dapol yet. EDIT I just went and got a Hornby and a Dapol wagon, and they fit on both, Hornby is the tightest fit

While messing about with ideas for my 3d printer I came up with a design these magnetic couplings, other than breaking off the supports, I put a spot of glue into the hole drop the magnets in (making sure they are all up the same way). They slip onto the dropper of a standard Hornby type. They can be operated from below with another magnet, this is strong enough to work through 6mm ply and cork sheet. They do not extend below rail height during operation as i intend them for use over granite setts. I am awaiting for delivery of a 12v electro-magnet to see what i can do with that. What does anyone think? Regards, Neil https://www.dropbox.com/s/uq8eq0s6epr1hug/20210124_120231.mp4?dl=0

I assume you know about this one: http://webcam.deg.net/?a=showcam&w=showliveimage2&o=pla I have spent far too long looking at that, first time I recall seeing it in snow though! Regards, Neil

Done a bit of drawing lunch time : Thanks again H16LSWR EDIT After looking at the drawing again today, I think I have these plates upsidedown, will edit again lunch time EDIT AGAIN I think this is more like it: Regards, Neil PS my grandfather and great grandfather both worked at Longhedge works in Battersea

Thank you, those drawings are of great help. That part is the most difficult part to see on any photo, and the original builders plans did not make it clear. What I had was no more than best guess from what I could see, I will work on modifying the CAD using these. Thanks again. Also, It is interesting what you said about the cab hatches, It's funny I have been looking at pictures of the radstock engines for 30 odd years and never noticed that it was only on one side until recently. (Joyce has hers other way around and a slightly different shape). regards, Neil

Hi, Originally I started this as a single part to help with a scratch build just for me, and got a bit carried away. But as i have had a fair bit of interest, and if I can get them to print to a standard I am happy with, I will offer them, Also I have provisionally worked at modifying the CAD for 'Joyce' Regards, Neil PS the IF part is a big if after yesterdays fail, I seem to be getting further away from a good print, but then again I have only had the machine for a couple of weeks.

Whist waiting for yet another Sentinel test print last night, I thought I would see what the CAD looked like 'Coloured in'. Regards, Neil

Hi all, In case anyone is interested, i have finally received my Elegoo Saturn last week, and am currently a a quarter of the way through a print. There have been a few changes to the CAD since I last posted. Fingers crossed that I wake up to a good print. CAD below: Neil

Hi, Lamp irons are on, some have broken off the prototype, but these were done on a friends printer some months ago using whatever resin he had in it, which was quite brittle, I have used the 'ABS like' resin and there seems to be a little bit of give in it, But whether it stays like that when fully cured, who knows?! It they do come off, they should trim down with a sharp blade so nothing lost Regards, Neil

Hi all, I finally received my Elegoo Saturn last week, and am currently a a quarter of the way through a print. There have been a few changes to the CAD since I last posted. Fingers crossed that I wake up to a good print. Neil

I was only vaguely 'thinking out loud' yesterday. A quick google today of WW1 aircraft in flight, shows that my speculation was wrong! Regards, Neil

. . . . Or would it? An aircrat in flight has a lower airpressure over the surface of the wing, Would this not 'suck' the fabric upwards when in the air? I don't know, and am certainly no aircraft expert, it just that what you said got me wondering? Regards, Neil