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Butler

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Status Updates posted by Butler

  1. Butler

    Hi

    I have just located a Bachmann RFO in Darker green, it has the same part number 39-253 but the box is marked as (SR) Green, as opposed to my other lighter green RFO marked as BR (SR) Green. So that’s a bit of a spanner in the works. I thought we had it pretty well sussed. But anyway your list has helped. If I wasn’t so OCD about it it wouldn’t matter.

    regards

    B

    1. Free At Last

      Free At Last

      Have a nice day.

       

    2. truffy

      truffy

      Not so OCD as to use PM rather than the SSU. :rolleyes:

  2. Butler

    Hi

    Thank you for your reply. I love the model. I love Wagon Lits, and Pullman. One of my best friends is Antony Ford, author of many Pullman books and a world expert on Pullman, and Wagon Lits. 

    Can you advise me, I would like to consider making this kit. I am used to modelling in wood. I have made many model ships, including Amati. These include all the cannons rigging etc But I have never used soldered metal. Do you think , in your opinion that this kit is within my capability. I have attached some images of my models.

    Look forward to hearing from you.

    F6236F4C-DE83-4FCB-B902-97F1DF759BB4.jpeg

    F48E8C90-B9A8-42B4-A316-4C19D0ABD22D.jpeg

    2C8D9D8D-A78F-49EF-B3E4-E22C1339D815.jpeg

    1. sncf231e

      sncf231e

      Hello,

       

      Of course I have and have read some of the books on Pullman by Antony Ford; he indeed is a specialist (I am still searching for Pullman Profile No 2).

       

      I think that If you can make such a beautiful ship model it will be very much in your capabilities to make the Amati CIWL LX kit. There is no soldering involved. Note that the kit when build according to the instructions, which are very clear, is a static model. To make it a running model some changes, especially on the frame and the bogies, are needed. I made a description of the build on a Dutch forum: https://forum.beneluxspoor.net/index.php?topic=81704.0, but of course this is in the Dutch language;)

       

      Regards

      Fred

       

    2. Butler

      Butler

      Thank you for your reply. Antony’s books are superb and I am very proud to have contributed to some of the books in a small way. 

      Thank you for your kind words on my ships. A question for you though, do Amati only make a sleeping car? Where will I find one, is t still made ?

      If you wish you. An PM me and we can discuss some more, if you would like to.

      B

    3. Butler

      Butler

      Hi

      Thank you, I have found one, but do you think this is the best to go for. It is only for display. Unless you suggest anything else, I will go for it.

      thanks

      B 

      PS I expect you seen the Golden Arrow Models  Pullman pre made in brass, O gauge. Beautiful ! Think they not made anymore.

       

      F359A618-30F2-4488-9A6B-C30CA8E8572B.jpeg

  3. Butler

    Hi

    Talking about emu’s, I’m going to put lighting in my Hornby Bils and Hal’s . Do you know if the headcode boxes were lit, and what was the tail lamp arrangement, the later emu’s had 2 white bars? Later 2 red bars? Just wondered if you knew,

    regards

    Brian

    1. Show previous comments  4 more
    2. Butler

      Butler

      Thank you for your replies. So no front light at all on these type of locos, even getting in to BR days? 

      B

    3. Geep7

      Geep7

      No, no front light at all, the Bil's, Hal's and Cor's were all withdrawn by 1973.

       

      Regards, Chris

    4. Peter749

      Peter749

      The 2-Bil, 2Hal and 4-Cor did have illumination behind the white panel

      Otherwise the units would run without any illumination on the front which would not have been allowed

       

      This picture in the NRM shows the front of the 4-Cor with the box behind the stencil illuminated

      https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Class_404_"4COR"_3142.jpg

  4. Butler

    Hi

    Thanks for the info on the lights, I’m going to go for the battery ones. Just 1 question, I’m fitting them initially to some 2 bil/Hal units , early 60’s . Should I fit warm white or amber? I’m thinking warm white as amber might indicate gas lights?

    thanks

    Brian

    1. AMJ

      AMJ

      Warm white with a resistor to dim it down a bit.  It is worth trying different values as the brightness is your personal preference.  

       

      Regards 

      Andrew

    2. Butler

      Butler

      Resistor in Series I guess, what kind of value, I havnt a clue without forcing my brain back to ohms law, you just need to get a voltage drop is that right?

      thank you for your help

      brian

    3. AMJ

      AMJ

      I'd try a 1K ohm in series with the LEDs

      placing two 1K resistors in parallel using Ohms law is equivalent to 0.5K or two in series is 2K as below

      image.png.322832cccd2f05565acbaf4f18a4d03d.png

      Regards

      Andrew

  5. Butler

    It’s not despair that kills you, but hope! John Cleese

  6. Butler

    Hi,

    following my thread on a suitable decoder for the 4TC , having tried 2 decoders to get interior lights workingdid you come up with a suitable one?

    B

    1. truffy

      truffy

      I haven't, no, but thanks for asking.

  7. Butler

    It’s not despair that kills you, but hope. John Cleese!

  8. Butler

    It’s not despair that kills you, but hope. John Cleese!

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