I have been a read only member of this forum for some time so perhaps now I should contribute a bit. I am not as productive as most members of this forum, so my results tend to be rather slow in arriving.
First up is a rebuild of a Coopercraft GWR Dia O4 open wagon which is well on the way to completion. Some time ago when I was a member of a model railway club, I did an exchange of wagons. I had scratch built a Midland Railway open for the club’s LMS based 7mm layout. The funding was tight, so I was convinced to exchange my MR wagon for a “slightly damaged” GWR one that the club owned rather than receive the expected cash. Initially I could see damage to the buffers, headstocks and brake gear. Nothing apparently too bad.
When I got it home and on to some track it proved to be a complete lemon and would not stay on the track. I put it on a sheet of glass revealing 3 wheels touching the glass whilst the 4th was at least 1mm above it. I also found that the chassis had been packed out to one side so the body was off centre when viewed from the end.
I immediately looked in the mirror but couldn’t make out the word “Mug” on my forehead but decided it must have been there somewhere!
For more than 20 years it sat forlornly in my workshop acting as a suitable container for small parts made for other vehicles rather like the time expired full-sized versions that used to be seen outside of railway works.
A few weeks ago, I decided to take the plunge and rebuild it. I have not built any of the Coopercraft kits so before starting I decided to look around the various fora to see other people’s experiences.
A useful one (in 4mm scale) was here:
http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/73776-gwr-four-plank-wagon-from-coopercraft-kit-gwr-one-plank-wagons/?p=1095280
From the photos in the above, I noticed there were studs on both ends to support the floor, and the solebars had upward extensions. The article suggested the resulting floor level was too high.
On mine the studs had been cut off and the tops of the solebars cut down. In fact, the solebar top flange had gone. Without the supports the floor was skewed and the one end did not sit properly on the headstock, leaving a markedly tapered gap. This I decided was the cause of the uneven chassis.
I set to stripping down the wagon and was able to recover the following parts.
There had originally been brake gear on both sides but on receipt it was totally smashed on one side and quite badly damaged on the other. The DC brake levers were just stumps. I also noticed that the brake push rods were wrong for DC brakes. The swan neck lever behind the right axle guard lifts to apply the brakes which means the pushrods should be left over right, not as they are in the photo.
The plastic of the ”v” hanger at the end of the solebar showed areas that had gone white indicating they had been bent and fatigued. They were severely weakened. All very sad because I had hoped to retain the DC brakes and the final result was a bit of a mongrel. Oh well.
The original kit supplied 4 strips of stainless steel for weights which I retained. These add up to 24 gm (9 oz).
I did a trial fit of the solebars on to the wheels to measure up for components to rebuild the chassis and to check for ride height. The photos show the comparison with a Slaters/Parkside Dia O24 that I recently built.
You will probably notice that I am using the O24 to hold the bits and pieces now!
Edit: 04/01/19. Changing first entry to reflect start of new project.