Black Country Mon

Managed to get the primer and top coat on during the Scottish monsoon (summer). Decals to add once its all dried nice and hard. Dave

Got the chassis finished and test fitted onto the body, all runs nice and freely once i had added a bit of lead into the boiler to bring the front end down centralizing the horn blocks with the driven axle. The body needs a good clean up now before i can get the Halfords etch primer onto it. Dave

George may do i'm not sure but as i've only one set maybe two tops of these old style bushed stepped axle wheels it's not really worth procuring anything. A new tool is always a nice addition though.

Thanks Doug yes i don't think it'd look right freshly painted ex works, weathering is a must in my book. I added all of the last few small details to the body and then turned my attention to finishing the chassis. Changed the wire in the horn blocks to 0.6 dia as 0.7 would just have been too tight in this setup, much better, no waggling. I've also opted to try the Gibson plunger pickups as you can see from the photo as i've a few packs from various kits. I will also add my preferred wipers too, to double up just in case. Added the brake gear and after i was satisfied i'd not forgotten anything, primed and top coated it. Since taking the photo i found one set of the wheels had got a fracture in the web of a couple of spokes so i've had to substitute that pair for a newer set of Gibsons. The 2 sets that were usable didn't like fitting into the GW wheel press as its set up for 1/8 axles and not the stepped type that these were, so had a bit of a wrestle to get them pressed home and quartered correctly. I'll add the coupling rods next, add a bit of weight to compress the horn blocks to a neutral location and test it out. Dave

Added most of the white metal castings and the pipework. For some reason i always find the steps the most testing items to get anything near ok. Got to fill the single handrail knob/handle on the smoke box door, rear sandboxes and pipes, lamp brackets, door dart, coupling hooks and vac pipes to add, then on to complete the chassis. Dave

Grabbed an hour tonight after tea to get the cab roof formed and soldered on along with the coal guard, and all the beading around tanks, cab sides, roof and bunker eventually positioned. Need to clean up the roof joint before i start adding the white metal castings and pipework, steps etc. I've a few googled photos so they have given me a good idea of visible pipework. There was no back head and interior fittings with the kit probably because of limited visibility into the cab but i'll make something up once i've checked exactly how far back the gearbox sits. After that it'll be back to complete the chassis to get that ready for painting Dave

When i first kitted myself out i picked up a range of short wooden dowels from B&Q and Wickes of various diameter for forming tumble homes, bending tender sides and boilers/smoke boxes. As long as the etch isn't too thick they should roll pretty easy. I used to roll them on an old thicker mouse mat. don't try to roll it in one go though do it with lots of small pressure adjustments. If in doubt try to get some brass or nickel silver sheet from one of the suppliers like Eileens or off Ebay, cut the same size out and try it out, you've nothing to loose then. If the material is quite resilient you may need to anneal the piece on the gas ring heating it before trying to roll it. Use some decent gauntlets though, proper PPE is a must if you do. I acquired too many kits not to warrant purchasing a set of rollers though. The small ones from George at GW roll to a smaller diameter but the longer rollers that i have give you more flexibilty to roll longer items. Dave

Yes there is something primordial about raw materials especially steel and brass. A little more progress from last evenings hour at the bench, boiler and smoke box (handrails added before fixing) now attached along with the fairly fiddly tank tops and rivet strips. Next to add all of the beading around tanks, cab etc Dave

Thanks Ivan i guessed i'd need to do something with that 0.45 wire. A little more work tonight, out came the GW rollers for forming the boiler and smokebox. The lower section of boiler visible through the tank cut outs is a separate section and fits under tabs on the tank stiffeners. The tabs are there to sit the boiler and smokebox onto. I fitted the boiler bands supplied although i usually just use magic tape these had an etched profile to slot into the boiler grooves so was quite a neat fit. I used a piece of 0.7mm dia wire to form the joint between the boiler and smokebox. All just positioned to see how it fits will be soldered in place next. Dave

I've just used the wire that came with the hornblocks for now 0.45 dia. They do waggle about a small amount, it may be that i'll need to increase that wire diameter if they don't behave once i've got the wheels and coupling rods attached for a test. It's the first time i've used Alan Gibson hornblocks so all a learning curve for me. They do seem a bit open to inaccuracies though as they rely on you cutting the chassis in the first place, getting a perfectly square keep made up with the wire retainer/guide and then all soldered in place. Dave

Cheers John I'm sure i'll be making mistakes too that's how we learn i guess. This kit is really nice, well thought out accurate etchings that fit well good diagrams that still leave some scope for you to change the order around a bit to suit your own build. I made a cut out in the front cab section so that the gearbox clears it. The gearbox protrudes slightly into the cab but i'll hide that with the backhead later. I added the handrails before i soldered the tank stiffeners in place. Just had to be careful when soldering the stiffeners in that i didn't add too much heat to the assembly which might have added a twist in the footplate. One with the body sat on the chassis. Starting to take shape now. Boiler to roll next. Dave

Decided to make up the footplate next as i need to cut out a section for the gearbox/motor to pass through. Made up the first tank side with inset doors soldered. i've also made up the cab front and rear with 0.33mm wire grills to the rear windows. Splashers and tank cut out formed without any problems and without having to remove any material. Handrail knobs to add now before i solder in the cab front/rear and tank stiffener assembly. Dave

I've had this in the to do cupboard for a while so as i need a test piece for my new EM layout i thought it would be the perfect runaround to test my dubious hand built track work. I decided to try out some Alan Gibson hornblocks with this chassis so following a read through of Kenton's hornblock factory workshop 4 were duly produced. Frames were marked out and cut to suit the outer profile. I found i needed to go a little deeper than the 4mm above datum as suggested in the destructions. The rear axle is fixed for a High Level Roadrunner + gearbox from Chris. Frames went together very easily with a multitudinous array of spacers to chose from. Brake supports added but i'll make the brake assembly separate from the chassis for painting etc Coupling rods were laminated and left as jointed. Jim gives you 3 layers on the etch for laminating but that would have been too much so i used just the 2 layers. This is what comes with the body etches Gearbox to make up now and get that all running.

Peter, The Coronation is coming along beautifully. Thanks for putting up so many photos especially those with the little snags you've found they are a huge help. As an EM gauge modeller my build of the Gladiator kit will be a one off in 7mm, so i'm conscious of not making too many errors. I've been reluctant to do anything to the resin firebox as its a pretty complex shape to form from brass and as you only get one shot at it i certainly didn't want to muck it up, even though i'm sure David would've sold me another if i'd needed it.. But seeing you're resolution has given me confidence to tackle the kit as a whole. Keep the photos coming. Thanks Dave

You can download the fantastic instructions at any time from the Finney 7 website if they get damaged/burnt/soaked/framed at all.

Cheers for the kind comments, i've only used Exactoscale components so i'll try chamfering the rail a bit more, there is a definite technique to it. Enjoy the building work.

Hayfield thanks for the step by step guide it has inspired me to convert to EM gauge and build my own track. First turnout above a LH B7. The hardest part i find is getting the chairs onto the rail even with a tiny chamfer on the end, some just don't want to go and end up getting split (to be reused later and not chucked out). But apart from that and forgetting to add the set until i was halfway along fixing the curved stock rail. Managed it of sorts though. Just got the tie bars to add and some brass slide chairs with a copperclad sleeper. Dave

That would be great Mike if it comes off. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/45248-judith-edge-kits/page-19

Count me in for an "Edge" V4, K4 or a B9. Dave

Web site dead now so doesn't even look like we'll get any news of a potential take over if there was one Shame another supplier of decent components of the shopping list.

Wow the etches are a work of art. So too is the assembly incredibly neat work, real craftsmanship.

Coming along very nicely there David. There's something about a model as an all brass kit rather than part resin. Whats going to be on the bench next? A Duchess maybe? Dave