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Sir TophamHatt

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Everything posted by Sir TophamHatt

  1. It sort of worries me when I see threads like this :/ I thought to convert a DC loco you simply had to wire in a socket and/or decoder and away you go. But I worry about stall rates and what I have to test. Ordered a bunch of Lenz Standard v2's, but will probably order some Zimos as they too seem to be popular (I have about 15 locos to chip). Is there a bit more of a guide on stall rates and stay alive things?
  2. Hmm. I guess it depends on how much profit you want to make. If they work out the costs based on todays value, work out how many people are likely to make a pre-order, then that should give an indication on how much to charge. Use that for the Kickstarter, which will likely get more orders anyway, and then up the price by 10% for after Kickstarter. If production was limited to 1000, then the math is even easier to work out. The pound rate won't change significantly over the next few months, and while small increases or decreases will happen, calculating the rates to a lower pound value could mitigate this. But because there's no indication of cost, then it all hinges on the "sensible price" variable. For the power cars, charge anywhere from £150-£200 or £250 - £300 range for DCC ready - that's £250,000 at the lower end. I'm sure the Kickstarter could start at the £250 and head up. With a limited run, people would buy.
  3. Why didn't they just do a Kickstarter campaign? I'd be happy to pay upfront at a sensible price. Then [the builder] can see how many people would be interested from the outset. While I appreciate not everyone would go for a Kickstarter campaign, at least it would help gather funds from the beginning.
  4. Also, FIY - to emphasise words, use the italics button.
  5. Thanks for the advice. Been reading as I'm looking to start with DCC as soon as possible. I think I already have a DC controller so can switch if I need to but the more DCC things I have, the better. Just expensive converting 15+ locos! But then should be fairly quick after I get the first few under my belt. I was looking at the NCE cab as it seemed to be the most popular but now I'm not so sure. The fact it's built for the UK seems nicer, and if it means I can add sound, lights, points in the future without having to change anything - I might just save a little longer and get the PA2 instead. My only concern is both seem to be over 10 years old :/ Also struggling to find it at £209.50? Website please How many locos (no sound, points or anything else) could you run with the NCE out of the box? Thanks
  6. I'll have to remember this. Bought mine over 10 years ago - never been run.
  7. Why would model railways go any different than other retail stores? I don't moan about the demise of the town centre shops. I love the butchers but am happy to admit, I find shopping all under one roof - even for clothes these days - is much easier, quicker and is usually cheaper.
  8. So, I've built my baseboard using some timber for the legs, 12mm plyboard for the top. It's not the best construction but pretty okay for a first time. It'll be a permenant fixture, so not moving anywhere. However, what is the next step? Modelling Base: Do people still use corkboard as a topper to start modelling on? Where is best to get this from? Is there anything else I should get now? I saw online that someone glued or varnished the top layer to "seal" it. Then, while still wet, they chucked loads of grass on. Is this still recommended, or should I just paint the whole corkboard green? Power: How many power sockets should I look at having? The only experience I have had is using one, on a non-DCC layout, about 15 years ago. There's no sockets particularly close by. Out of interest, if I have powered points, how are these connected to work? DCC: I plan to make it DCC in the very near future. Are there any special considerations I need? I drawn out a plan of track and what I want. As it's my first model then I'm not too fussed on using computers to model it and this and that, I'll just join track together and chop and change until it fits. It's a basic oval, but bigger and longer (size is about 230cm x 130cm). I'm hoping to have a hill on one side, with a tunnel underneath. I was going to have two stations, but figured it simply won't work having two. I may change it later on and have a smaller station elsewhere. Thanks for advice
  9. Sorry to go a little off topic, but is the club really worth joining?
  10. That would be great! Managed to secure most of them but it'll arrive missing a few magazines/models.
  11. Is this still worth collecting? I don't fancy paying loads for it but I can't bear having just one or two of them :/
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