Sir TophamHatt

But I don't need to connect D, E or F to anything? I'm pretty far away from being able to add signals so I'm happy just to fit the motor as is. I know that's not really getting the most out of the motor but if I replace the points for electrofrog later, I have the motor to go with it. The next challenge (ish) will be fitting two motors to one switch so I can switch two sets with the one push.

I've read through the instructions and watched the Everard Junction video on wiring up these points. I was pretty confident but now I'm actually doing it, I'm not so sure. So... A goes to the switch. C goes to one bus wire. D I can ignore as I'm using insulfrog. E I can ignore as I'm using insulfrog. F I can ignore as I'm using insulfrog. B goes to the other side of the switch. However the instructions suggest D and E should go to any signals I may have. Does anyone know how this works? The Everard Junction video says these two (D and E) switch the polarity of the tracks if I were using electrofrog points. I'm powering my layout using DCC, but have an old Hornby controller that I'm using to power the secondary bus wires for the point motors. I also have a CDU to put in there somewhere. Cheers.

I've had to put mine on the back burner for this month as I have point motors to get done first. Next month however, I'm right on this! Do you have any parts lists of what you bought online, and any guidance photos?

Excellent! Much better than having to look at cancelling I'll have to check to see when my subscription starts. I think it's the Feb issue though

Thanks for the explanations everyone Will wait until the J70 model is finished before buying a decoder. Luckily I have about 5/6 trains still to fit decoders, but have less than that in the 8-pin ones that I'll have to hardwire anyway. I guess I just have to look at the train and decide if it has lights or other functions. Many of mine don't have any other functions apart from forward and back so I should be okay to use up the Lenz and Zimo's I have. Thanks all

What's the difference between a Next18 decoder and a Lenz Silver+ v2 for example? I guess it's the number of functions? So a Lenz Silver+ can cope with x amount of functions/sounds/lights but an 18 or 21 can cope with more? I was reading in a copy of Model Rail that led me to Hattons (?) who were suggesting Bachmann are starting to look at Next18 as their default decoders now. Plus, I've ordered the J72, which comes with a "Next18 socket" - does this mean the Lenz Silver+ v2 or Zimo MX decoders I have already won't fit? On a side note, Hattons also suggested the new Next18 decoders are slightly smaller than many on the market as the pins "don't stick out" - I am looking for a couple of small decoders, hence buying the Zimo MX versions as I have a couple of locos (Thomas' Emily for example) where there's next to no space for a decoder to be hardwired in.

Don't apologise for dragging up an old thread! Mine is arriving later this week (hopefully!) so will be useful as I wasn't going to part with £30 for them to install a decoder for me when I have a Lenz and Zimo at home sitting doing nothing Will report back what happens.

I've watched the Everard Junction on using motors for points, but have a couple of questions. As my layout is fairly wide with no easy access to the rear, I'm delving into motorised point operation for the rear (at the moment). I've bought some Gaugemaster PM-1 SEEP point motors, switches (on/off/on - auto off) are on their way. I have insulfrog points, which I know isn't great but it is what it is now and I'm not really interested in changing them to electrofrog at the moment. So I can safely ignore the sections about wiring up the motor to the point for power. My question is over power itself. I have a Prodigy Advance 2. I plan to run no more than 4 trains at once (probably more like 2), only have one sound loco at the moment. But I understand it's good practice to have a seperate set of bus wires for signals, points, other things too. My question is, what do I buy, and how do I wire it up? The Prodigy Advance supports accessory functions, but I guess I would have to select the Accessory button, then select the number, then push another button for it to change? When I can flick a switch and the point has changed, I'd rather that at the moment. I've been suggested a 12-16v supply, but how do I then wire this up to a new set of "accessory" bus wires? I have one of the Hornby DC controllers but not sure how this would work / if it would work. Alternatively, I may already have a suitable controller (see first photo here) - would that do? Thanks

Hmm. That's the deal I went for. Will have to contact them and see what's what.

I've pre-ordered, but they're was no "Customer comments" box to put my subscriber number so I stick it in the Special Instructions instead.

Needs weathering! Changed 2:1 woodland scenics fine to medium. Looks very new but after a bit of distressing, I think it'll look okay.

So much great advice in this. Will get some woodlands scenics and mix them together and give that a go. Thank you ☺️

So I bought and laid some of this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/401375295640 It's quite nice but I'm worried it's now not the right colour or size. Attached is a photo with a train. It just seemed cheaper than others I saw. I'm not particularly modelling any era, I run modern trains and a few steam trains. What ballast do you use?

I've not seen the timings, but I suspect a 30 min journey north, plus 45 mins south won't make much sense for people of Leicester.

Okay, I see. The powders mix to make a paint sort of solution... seems fairly simple and using the two clear coats to get different effects. Gonna have to start saving some plastic tubs to mix up the colours. Is there a good weathering powder supplier?

Thanks so much for the pointers Really glad it isn't just me but I'm sure I have a couple of wagons to give it a go with. Might look for some bulk joblot on ebay specifically for this.

Hi. Three questions... 1) If buying a skirted version, is there an option to remove them? 2) Just subscribed today so first issue won't be until mid-January. Is there a way I can purchase at the subscriber rate without knowing the full subscriber number? (unless it was sent on the confirmation email?) 3) Having looked at all the models, the closest to (Thomas the Tank) Toby is the "MR-207 Rapido LNER Class J70 Steam Locomotive number 8223 in LNER post-war livery with full skirts" - correct?

Quite simply, I don't want to ruin my trains! At the moment, I can't really afford to buy some coaches or trucks to give weathering a go, but I have got Hornby's weathering book and a few articles in Model Rail to ready through. But I'm still afraid, more so because I feel it might end up like cooking. I can cook, but I always find food better when the wife has cooked for me. I'm thinking I can try on some infrastructure (like a retaining wall) to get myself started. How did you get started? Were there any mishaps on the first few?

Thanks I don't have many of the old ones, ha ha. Are the motors above under-baseboard ones or above?

Depends what sort of train it is. I passed up an opportunity to purchase some trains that someone had butchered into Thomas the Tank Engine models. They took the ERTL range apart and basically stuck it on a OO gauge train, but actually really well.

So my mobile didn't actually show all the prices... Turns out £35 for a years worth of magazine, plus £5 cashback. Add the soildering iron I suppose and it might be worth it... for 6 months at least, which would be just £12.50! Will pick up a magazine and see what it's like

Sorry, I know this is going to sound a little silly but what is the difference between a 58xx and a 14xx? Looking at the 14xx but want a weathered one and for the logo to be Great Western instead of GWR in green... so basically the 58xx.

Thanks for the input. Quick question. If I was to buy some of these (Hornby point motors): to fit underneath the baseboard to throw the switch? would they fit points like this: And do points like this (below, left) have a separate name to the above?

^ that's a good tip. Especially when testing. Currently, my skill level is treating DCC like DC. I stick the train on the track, select it and then turn the knob. Until my layout is built and I've run in a few trains (naughty converting them to DCC without running in, I know!), I'm not even bothering with adjustments like speed steps and this and that.

Nice editorial.