Dave John

That is an excellent result.

May I ask, did you buy a bundle pack from Ghost or did you source the printer and toner/paper separately? They seem to do do the toner cartridges for a large number of printers, some of which are no longer available so any pointers as to what I should be looking for? 

Thanks

You are getting good at that Caley lookalike livery Corbs. 

Really if it hadn't been for that silly grouping thing I could be having  lot of fun.

I have an ROD sitting in a box. Why ? Well the Caley borrowed 53 of them. Much as I would like that to be borrowed in the Glaswegian sense of the word it was official, but I'll do something with it when I have done messing about with my D1 "kit"....... 

The silhouette software will print to a printer if you want. 

So far it does all I want, and I just wouldn't be without it now. I used it today to make templates for cutting brass. Draw them, cut styrene, glue to brass, cut round them. 

Lidl Maryhill today. Basic Parkside soldering iron and stand kit.  £5.99 . 

Interesting build Corbs.

If you are going to extend the tanks in line with with the size they are now to the smokebox the front splasher/sandbox  would look a bit odd since there would be no way to fill the sandbox. Unless of course you make the tanks all the way down to the footplate. 

Just a thought. 

I have made some very bad mistakes with paint in the past . 

These days I cut a bit of something like foam board or plasticard about 3 "  by a couple of foot long . I spray the foam board with primer , leave it , If ok I prime the model. Then I spray 6 '' of the  the foamboard with the model colour. If its ok ,I spray the rest , if not , next 6" gets sprayed till I'm happy , then the model . 

Next a sample of the other oversprays or hand paint colours. when dry I look at it carefully,  if not happy do more , if ok , do model. 

Then transfers, try them on the foamboard if ok, do model . Then some lining. 

Finally varnishes. Do the foamboard bit by bit, if not try a different one . See if it is ok with the lining and transfers. 

I know this sounds like a longwinded method but I am lost with modern paint chemistry. Paints are just not what they used to be and I can't keep up. I would agree with the above comments about time , a couple of days at least between coats. Longer if its wet weather, RH seems to affect it.  My only real advice here is do a test sample first and label them , I am slowly making up a load of these test samples to help me.

I ordered some direct from the USA earlier this year since no UK supplier had the size I wanted.

Goods 54 USD , shipping 10 USD.

Arrived in a week. 

Well, If I decided to do that I'd start off with a timer kit like this, which I have used for another job.

https://quasarelectronics.co.uk/Item/velleman-k8035-multifunctional-up-down-counter-kit

and then use an IRDOT or similar optical sensor to trigger it .

At 20 quid its a fun thing to play with anyway.

I have use Revell contacta for laminating, use sparingly, many tiny dots 1/4 inch or so apart and two flat boards and weights overnight while it sets/ 

The stuff is sweet smelling, I suspect it it limonene like in a gel . 

Oi , Jack come over here and hold this board .............. 

I really am enjoying this build , if only ... 

Bit of 2mm rod with a pair of 2mm axle bearings back to back ? 

I have also used the little brass ferrules that come on the end of guitar strings ( AJ couplings need a fair amount of them) for working crane pulleys. 

Aye, a rod inside the handrail to control a variable blastpipe also turned up on a fair number of CR engines. 

Excellent work there Mikkel. 

The hook was from an etch of early coaches and was for the end of a safety chain. The ball is a split shot fishing weight. 

Really have a read at the CRA forums. 

There is a good thread on a cracking scratchbuild by Alan K and a lot of other threads about the way they were developed and modified of the years. The "tenders" were recycled mineral wagons and were equally various. 

Long ago there was an Anchorage kit  and that was the basis of my first one. Falcon designs then produced a kit, could have been from the Anchorage etch. I used one to make a Killin branch version. So I have used both types of Gibson wheels which are pretty accurate. 

The Falcon brass kit is currently listed as out of stock, they are discussed elsewhere on these forums 

Interesting. Technically I couldn't justify a Dubs crane tank but rule 1 and all that . 

Just an aside, The land on which Dubs built their factory was clay rich, so they built a brickworks and made their own bricks to build the loco works. 

Or you could go mad like I did and make the crane work ..... 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/dave_john/8035090191/in/photostream/

As a mac user I decided to go for Affinity. Its a lot cheaper than Photoshop and after a bit of a learning curve I am getting to grips with it . My layout lacks the impressive scenery of yours , but I'm working on it. 

I had a go at stacking to give depth of field, early results not brilliant but I can see where I'm going wrong. 

Anyway, keep posting, very relaxing to have a look at your work. 

Hmm, fun as ever Corbs. 

Seeing your RODs in bits and a box shifter selling them for 50 Quid made me buy one. Really , The CR had some. Er, 53 of them. 

Relax , they were black and unlined. 

Unless someone comes up with a pic of one in full CR lined blue , in which case I have a bit of a job on my hands ................. 

Quite a few suppliers do etched brass ladders. Wizard / 51L do a kit for a proper round rung ladder which with careful construction looks much better than a flat brass one. 

More likely GSWR , the CR used a combined brake hanger and spring mounting. 

As in these pics 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/2091/entry-19668-cr-diagram-24-wagon-and-some-sheep-part-2/

Well, some did Brian. Hattons had a big sale and I bought a ROD 280. Why ? Well, it was down to 50 quid. Now, it's one of those quirks of history that the caledonian bought some from the NBL late on. Gibson does a conversion kit to EM.

Mind you it is kinda plasticky and its going to be a lot of work to batter it into shape, but might be fun........ 

Hmm, I just went for the layers of PVA then layers of varnish. 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/2091/entry-21364-water-water-everywhere/

Many modellers far better at scenic things than myself have done it that way and I just copied their methods. 

Looks very realistic to me. 

I see you have modelled all the pot holes and bad tarmac patching based on photos of the bottom of my street..... 

Actually I wish they would just scrape the tarmac off, the setts are underneath it all. 

They look pretty good to me. Excellent work on the chimneys too. 

A thoughtful and sincerely presented video. 

Many thanks.