Dave John

Well, I'd suggest having a go with a simple rocking W iron etch. 

Advantages; it means that the wagon doesn't have to be perfectly square , and even if they are when you build them stuff moves about. Later on you can drop the wheels out for maintenance. Much tougher than plastic W irons. The wheels sit in proper brass bearings which last for years . Makes painting simpler. Decide to go EM or p4? Generally less of a hassle.

Disadvantages : adds a few quid to the cost. Might require a bit of soldering. Might need some extra bits such as springs and axleboxes. 

There are loads of threads on here with advice, have a shot at it. 

Loads of operating potential there.

Bear with me while I make an odd suggestion, following on from "runs as required" s idea.  I don't know how high the "ceiling" of your garage will be  but lets say 8 feet. So think down not up. Lets say you want 2 foot above the highest point of the layout for a backscene and lighting. Since you are building a multi level layout lets say the layout depth is 1 foot. So thats the bottom of the layout at 5 foot. . Build a couple of plinths a foot high the size of the operating areas and you are viewing the layout at a comfy height and the duckunders are not backbreaking. Also you have the space round the plinths to work comfortably under the layout. Rough measurements, adjust to suit.

A fag packet sketch ;

Not a completely original idea , some big layouts do it this way, but might save your back a bit. 

Very atmospheric scenes. 

I'd definitely agree that the camera can see many things the ageing eyeball misses. 

Followed your progress with interest Teaky. 

I think you are doing the right thing; getting the environment in which to build a layout right from the start is important. I think you have made a cracking job of that loft conversion, lets you concentrate on the layout build without worrying about the space in which it sits. 

Fine scenes as ever Allan. 

Is it just me that thinks the lady in the blue coat brings back memories of Margaret Rutherford as Miss Marple ? 

I have generated textures for buildings from photos taken by myself for things which are not commercially available. For the stairs shown below the white tiles, purple tiles and matchboard planking are all printed;

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/2091/entry-21069-looking-a-bit-more-like-a-stair-now/

I used an epson ET 2650 ( which uses liquid inks ) to print onto epson matte photo paper which is then sealed with Ghiant matte inkjet fix. So far ink useage is a lot cheaper than cartridges.

Since all the styrene layers are cut on the silhouette it is easy to generate and print out cutting templates for the printed textures. I find Glue and glaze good for sticking the printed to the styrene, it doesn't bond instantly and allows a bit of adjustment time. 

Hope that helps.

I did. Which was rather nice, let me enjoy the pics all over again. 

Inspirational stuff for all of us in pre grouping EM. 

I rather like the Plasticote red oxide metal primer. However I'm sure the shade as applied varied and tended to go a bit lighter and pinkish with age. 

Good to see someone else having a go at modelling the Caley. Seems to be picking up a certain inertia these days ; solid association with an excellent magazine, good books published, seriously accurate kits available. 

Interesting ideas. Just a thought, a simple handbrake of a wire in a tube that can be raised or lowered through the baseboard to catch the axle of the train might give remote uncoupling? Almost invisible with the tube level with the ballast.

This is one I made to act as a handbrake on an inclined siding years ago, uses an old H+M motor but there must be lots of neater ways of doing it these days. 

Interesting thread, the whole system is a great improvement .

Actually some companies prior to the grouping did use fishplates that curved round the bottom web of the rail. 

Here is  drawing of the Caledonian version. 

Had these been available when I was tracklaying I would have used them for EM. 

Yes Mikkel, thats the sort of stuff.

For the horse reins I have used fine enamelled copper wire salvaged from chokes and transformers from old junk electronics. Useful for all sorts and doesn't go hairy like cotton. 

Very nice work. I must dig mine out and dust them all.

If you are at a show and there is a Langley stand keep an eye open for the bits box, they sell off all the bits individually. A few years back I came home with a bag of assorted wheels, horses and things. Its kept me entertained for hours building odd stuff.

Based on a photo from , er, somewhere. 

I have also found that the revell contacta is good for laminating styrene sheet. I keep a 2 inch bit of 11 thou wire down the tube .  A pattern of tiny dots of it across the surface, dries slowly compared to the liquid solvents and if the assembly is held flat with weights it doesn't warp. 

Oddly too it does smell sweet and lemony, I do wonder if it is limonene in a gel ? 

I haven't tried their point rodding stuff. I have however made some of their etched point levers. I found them to be neat accurate etches which soldered up with ease. ( I use standard solder, the low melt stuff is just for special jobs at that price) 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/2091/entry-19391-some-point-levers/

Usual disclaimers, hope that is of help. 

Great pictures as usual GN.

"Fuse wire" is rarely used these days, I have spent much of my life ripping out fuse boxes and fitting consumer units. However Tinned Copper Wire and Enamelled Copper Wire are still widely available and relatively inexpensive. Very useful stuff . 

One of the best decisions I ever made was to build my layout in sections and have everything in the railway room on castors. Given the number of boards on your layout I reckon it makes a lot of sense. 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/2091/entry-19250-the-baseboard-waltz/

I like methfix, I tend to use about 1 part meths to 2 of water. For getting them in place cocktail sticks which don't scratch the paint. Cotton buds to absorb the excess, and the bit where it says leave them to dry before wetting with water matters. 

An impressive urban scene. The whole vista is coming together very nicely. 

Very nice modelmaking brylonscamel. I always get in a mess with clay, but those setts look the part. 

I have been inside the mechanism for the swing bridge, maybe someday it will get restored. ( mainly since it would be fun to see one of those cyclists that ride along there like they think they are doing the tour de france encounter it in the open position and fall into the canal ) .... 

It is Bowling harbour on the north bank of the clyde. 

A few more pics here, the building shown in Brylonscamels  pic can just be seen on the left. 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/2091/entry-19471-concrete-and-research/

Oh, and since its all about scratchbuilt structures  heres a few pics of the viaduct I made for my layout in the style of the Bowling one. 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/2091/entry-20017-some-viaduct-pictures/

Oh well, if we are are doing dog pics here is one of the flying pup .... 

Thanks for the tip that Historex are stocking Archers rivets. I have ordered directly from the usa in the past, a bit pricey and a 2 week delivery. I find the waterslide type excellent in use; 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/2091/entry-18626-girders/

Took 4 sheets to do all the girders. 

All rather impressive, I must admit I fancy a go at this myself since some of my loco crews are a bit artificial looking. 

Go on Mikkel, do the whole of the GWR Morris dancing team ...... 

Looks like its the olive green livery to me.