cabbie37

Thanks Corbs, good tip, though I have already snapped up a tender from a Bachmann N which suits perfectly. Welcome to the conversation Alex. If you are thinking of a project the same as me, perhaps you might be able to help with the individual components I will need for the upgrade. I am still really struggling with that. I don't have sufficient knowledge to make some of these choices.. I am hopeful that those that have greater knowledge might chime in.. Hugh

Ah, that's interesting. I had also read that a Schools chassis might fit the bill. Having had a look, occasionaly the Fowlers come up on Ebay and you can buy the complete thing for less than the price of the chassis you pointed out. As I have 2 donor locomotives, I'm warming to the idea of remaking the existing chassis with the chassis spacers as this chap did https://southernregionmodels.wordpress.com/locomotives/triang-l1/ That might be my first attempt and if I foul that up, the chassis you have helpfully pointed out might be Plan B... With that chassis, were you able to drop the height of the loco down a bit?

Thanks again, Hayfield. I only noticed you had edited your post after I had replied. SEF may well be a source of suitable parts if I can be accurate in my request. In answer to John's comment, I understand the L1 body to be surprisingly accurate in many ways, though the huge lump of plastic under the boiler (which I think is there to hide the motor) is one of the major flaws - apart from adding greater detail as I am planning to do. The tender as supplied is totally wrong and it's surprising the difference that replacing that with one from a Bachmann 'N' makes. The T9 I have has pretty much fallen apart. However, the major component that has failed is the main chassis block, which isn't available as a spare part. I am wondering however if I can salvage just the part that has the driving wheels in it to use under the L1 - the wheelbase is correct and the driving wheels of the T9 and the L1 are only an inch different in size. One of the main problems as I understand it, is getting the L1 down to the correct height for the running plate to line up with the correct height on the replacement tender... An idea of what can be achieved with the L1 is here: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/605/entry-4345-triang-l1-body-on-a-Hornby-t9-chassis/

I've been doing some reading this morning and according to A Pictorial Record of Southern Locomotives by JH Russell, the L1 shared the same chimney as the N Mogul, so another item tracked down as 247 Developments provide such an item. My list has been updated accordingly.. Thanks for the suggestion on the Q parts list, Hayfield. At the risk of appearing dense, which parts are you suggesting are common between the Q and the L1?

So, given the pointers above, I've been doing more research. Phew, one thing I have found out is the number of people doing seemingly high quality components nowadays. SO my shopping list has got to this point so far... Replacement chassis (including Motor and gearbox) Brake shoes – Mainly Trains MT182: SR Loco Brake Shoes & Hangers Bogie – Wizard Models – Comet Models LS11: LNER/SR Locomotive Bogie – 6’3″ Wheelbase Bogie wheels – 3’7“ Steam reverser – SEF (from Wainwright R1? – F192) Snifter valves - MARKITS M40B M4SNIFTSR 4MM SCALE, Clack valves = MARKITS M90 MCLACK-SR COMPLETE Handrail and knobs Steam Pipe (?) Chimney Buffers - MARKITS M71 M4BUFLOCOSR 4MM or Mainly Trains 4 LNER/SR Locomotive Buffers (4909) Whistle and Safety valves - MARKITS M62 M4SFTYV01 4MM SCALE Heating pipes etc Various pipework Cab backhead Paint and transfers Loco lamp irons – Mainly Trains - MT187: Loco Lamp Irons So this list is beginning to fill out now. The chimney is a big sticking point so if anyone has any ideas on that or observations of my choices so far, that would be helpful... Thanks for the ongoing help...

Ok, good to know... I've been thinking about the chassis this afternoon. I have seen other examples where people have use the new Hornby T9 chassis, so I bought one really cheaply on Ebay, but the Mazak rot had taken more effect than I had hoped. It might have a future. There is a Rod Neep T9 chassis on Ebay that I'm following as well, but I've also seen this approach... https://southernregionmodels.wordpress.com/locomotives/triang-l1/ What are peoples thoughts on this approach. I've had a better look at the L1 chassis this afternoon and hadn't realised I have brass side frames with a centre of another yet indetermined material. Sounds quite a practical approach.. Thoughts?

Yes, I wondered about that. Any clues to technique for its removal? Is it just long and slow work with a sharp blade? Thanks for the tip on the not-Westinghouse pump. I'll ring SEF Monday for a copy of their parts list...

Thanks for the responses so far. I have already started looking at the resources suggested. Some fairly intensive Googling over the last 24 hours has come up with some likely providers. Markits has a range of Westinghouse pumps, can anyone suggest the most suitable? I'm afraid I cant work out which here is the most appropriate? http://www.markits.com/news.html It's tricky to do much more Markits based research as their catalogue isn't yet available.. Similarly, Alan Gibson shows a Westinghouse pump but without an illustration, it's difficult to say whether it is the correct version... Some of the other research I have been doing is looking at more photographs and this one.... show a further pipe from the Smokebox, though I don't know the name to give to this component.. I don't live too far from Peterborough so my plan is to identify everything I need before the Exhibition there in December when I plan to hoover up everything I need in one fell swoop..

Hello. I'm a born again modeller returning to the hobby after an absence of 35 years. Having read other posts (I've been folowing RM Web for quite a while) I can see I'm not alone in that. A lot has changed since I last dabbled and I need some projects to get involved in to hone my skills and come to terms with new components and techniques. I have always had a soft spot for the old Triang L1 and have seen that others do as well. As I have a couple of them ripe for improvement on the bench, I have decided to set about detailing one of them for my first project. This is where I need help. As I say, availibilty and standard of componentry has improved beyond measure so, as I start to think about how I will approach this, I am looking for advice on where I should be able to track these all down. If anyone was prepared to offer pointers based on the following image I have annotated, I'd be really grateful.. and the parts I need are as follows: A Replacement chassis (including Motor and gearbox) B Westinghouse pump C Snifter valves D Clack valves E Handrail and knobs F Steam Pipe (?) G Chimney H Buffers I Whistle and Safety valves J Steam Heating pipes etc K Various pipework L Cab backhead M Paint and transfers I have already acquired a better tender from a Bacnhamm 'N' I will be doing this in 00 so choice of wheels would also be useful. Apologies in advance for any errors in the names I have given to the components. Any advice or suggestions will be gratefully received, particularly if folks think I have missed something... Many thanks in advance...

Ah, that's where my confusion arose. I misinterpreted decoder for controller, must pay more attention. That all makes sense now.. I was reading this in conjunction with https://www.brian-lambert.co.uk/DCC.html which shows red and black wires from the controller to the track. I did a bit of speed reading/thinking and got the wrong end of the stick. All clear now... Thanks for that, much appreciated...

As far as decoders are concerned, these come in a large range of sizes, connectors, power handling and function outputs. But they all have one thing in common, one pair of wires on the decoder (the red and black ones) are connected to the pickups from the track, and another pair of wires (the orange and grey) are connected to the motor. The motor must be completely isolated from the pickups or you will destroy the decoder as soon as you turn on the power, be it DC or DCC, to the loco. May I just clarify one point please? The red and black wires will connect the controller to the track. The orange and grey wires I'm assuming are the standard colours for wiring within the locomotive? Sorry if I'm being dense... I am also in the position of learning DCC from scratch having come back to modelling after many years and so much has changed! Thanks for writing such a comprehensive description in the first place I have found it very helpful... Hugh

Returning to modelling after an absence of many years, I'm proposing to create a very small test track to hone my modelling skills. So much has changed since I last was involved. Does anyone have any Peco Code 75 points they might be prepared to part with, second hand will be fine, I just need a few to make up a simple passing loop and headshunt to play with wiring techniques and explore DCC. Left or right hand, large or small radius, it doesn't really matter, I think pretty much anything would suit my purpose... very many thanks in advance for any offers... Hugh

Does anyone have a copy of this on their shelf that they no longer need? If so, I gladly give it a good home. Getting back into Railway Modelling after many years away, much has changed and I need some initial guidance and inspiration! Fair price offered... many thanks in advance... Hugh

Hello - I'm trying to track down a copy of Steam Days from June 1997. My interest is the article on the Maunsell L1. If you can help with a copy of the magazine or just the article, please PM.. many thanks... Hugh