Tricky

I got the large Midland engine shed out again today and stuck a few more slates on, plus painted black where the ventilation grills will go. I have already made the grills including a million slats. I’ve positioned one here to show where they will go. After that, I will fit the glazing on the roof. I did consider cutting out for these but decided against it in favour of maintaining structural integrity. Instead the backs of the glazing will be painted a grubby colour so you can’t see through it. 
 

Great article Mike in the Gazette. 

Towards the end of the day today I managed to grab 1/2 an hour to do a bit more on the diorama. Before any further explanation the photos are terrible because I didn’t realise the camera lens on my photo was a bit grubby so apologies! 
Anyway, painting and mortaring brickwork seems to be one of those modelling tasks that has as many ways of doing it as there are modellers. And to be honest, I don’t think there is just one way that fits all situations. I’d course it also depends on how much of it you have to do. I just finished before Christmas a sectional retaining wall in O Gauge that was 12’ long so no, I didn’t pick out individual bricks in 8 different colours!! So for this wall, say 4’ long, I previously painted the mdf in a fairly thick coat of brick red and brown smudged around faultless randomly. When dry, I washed over with acrylic in burnt and raw sienna, black and off white. This is smeared liberally over and then mostly wiped off. Consistency is critical; you want it to not wet out and when dry if I’ve got it right will bead on individual bricks quite nicely. 
These poor photos show the mortaring process. It’s a brave move to slosh over a dilute mortar colour - in this case Precision Concrete I think. This is then mostly wiped off with an old towel. Then with a scrunched up ball of kitchen towel pick up some more dilute paint and rub over the surface. It’s important to work quickly and confidently and keep using a fresh surface of towel, so change it often. Lastly after a few minutes, dab fresh kitchen towel in grubby white spirit, dab off most of it and rub over the surface. This will gently take off concrete paint still sitting on the surface whilst not pulling the paint out of the mortar courses. 
This is only the first step - further detailing if mortar, staining and weathering will be next. 

6 minutes ago, Tricky said:

Can I ask - when roughly did they begin re-building with brakes both sides?

Although….I’m building the kit to dia 361 fitted fruit van so vacuum brakes both sides from new…so ignore the last post! The instructions say 3’7” spokes wheels and screw couplings but it comes with 3’7” plain wheels and 3-link couplings. 

Can I ask - when roughly did they begin re-building with brakes both sides?

10 hours ago, Compound2632 said:

 

So you have managed to cut the door from the side leaving both in usable condition? 

 

In 4 mm scale, I've tinkered with modelling one not with functioning sliding doors but with the door fixed open. Not very successful so far; it's clearly going to need a pair of sides - one to contribute the main side and the other providing the door. That seems extravagant, but I suppose for a posed non-running model one could get away with the other side being blank plasticard!

I was indeed expecting to have to cut the door from the side, but to my pleasant surprise they come as separate parts in the 7mm kit. 

And also the completed GW signal box. It’s a bit drunk on the table because it’s resting on the connector for the internal lights!

I’ve posted this over on my own thread Monks Gate Models but thought you’d like to see it here too. It’s a Slaters van kit I’m building with sliding doors. Done using brass strip let into the top and bottom of the doors, running through brass angle. So far so good…! 
 

I have a customer who has asked me to build a Slaters O Gauge van kit. So far so good. Except he wants the side doors to open and close. Hopefully these photos show how I’ve done it. I have let brass strips into the top and bottom of each door and then these are held but very fine brass angle. They work surprisingly well - let’s hope they still do after painting! 

More work in progress - almost there on the signal box, fitting windows. These have to be double sided as the interior is very visible. No excuses for the messy bench - it’s not always like this, promise! What does your bench look like?!

Not very good photos but here’s a 7mm signal box I’ve been working on today. It’s based on an Intentio bespoke kit but with added internal detailing, loo, winding staircase and new roof. Windows, guard rails and guttering to add. 
 

1 hour ago, Dave Hunt said:

You mean to say that it is a painted backscene? Gosh!

 

Dave

Top photo is Neil’s real shrubbery, middle photo is Neil’s real greenery in the foreground, bottom photo is Neil’s real shrubbery blending into Paul Bambrick’s painted backscene. 

33 minutes ago, Dave Hunt said:

Brilliant stuff Richard. What did you use for the bushes/shrubbery on the top one?

 

Dave

I used Neil Podbery!!

Today I added a significant feature on dioramas to the 'Latest News' section of my website. Take a look as there is lots to inspire you with plenty of photos of completed ones as well as thoughts on some possible potential new ones.

3 minutes ago, Michael Edge said:

There are two types of handrail stanchions, short ones for most of the handrail, longer ones for the refuges. They need to be twisted at the bottom to lay flat on top of the girder - this is how they were actually done. Photos are all of my 4mm model but the 7mm parts are the same.

The refuges were centred on the columns, I have used them to disguise joins in the structure.

Some taken before painting might be clearer.

This shows a signal bracket as well, I don't know whether Stephen's model has any though.

This is one of my original dummy signals, since replaced with working ones.

The handrail wire on mine is all .5mm straight brass. .7mm is probably best for 7mm.

Hope this helps, contact me if you need any more.

That's very helpful Michael, thank you.

@Michael EdgeIs there any chance you could post some model pics of the arrangement of the handrails and their supports, including the stepped-out refuge platform? I'm a bit unsure from the instructions where everything goes! I'm hoping a pic or two will clarify. Also, the 4mm instructions mention using 0.5mm wire for the handrails - I propose 0.8mm in 7mm. Many thanks, Richard. 

5 minutes ago, Compound2632 said:

 

Aha! I see you have modelled one of the 1905-7 build D305s with left-facing brake lever on the off-side...

I knew you’d appreciate that…! 🤓

To say ‘modest progress’ seems to be my stock phrase! But ‘modest’ is better than ‘none’! Fairly self-explanatory what’s happened. Good to begin getting some colour on…the ED wagon provides a mirror-giveaway…

The red is one of many coats of paint to go on and is nowhere near as garish in reality. The lighting in the workshop doesn’t agree with an iPhone!

Today’s update from the MGM workshop - I fairly easily managed to put together this little hut, slated two roof panels and cut out a simple door, window and barge boards. I also finished the last bit of track, fitted the tunnel brick lining (although there is another layer to go on at the front edge). For the right hand end of the tunnel I realised in my mind I was making it more complicated than it needs and simply added a mysterious sloping bit of brickwork (which  was lying around in the brickwork soared pile) as this edge will be mostly hidden by the front fascia, but I forgot to take a photo of it! I think next I will need to paint the brickwork which means I can fit it and then start the foliage etc between it and the backscene as well as the main groundworks. 
 

Small progress today in that I have made and fitted the buffer stops. And now I realise I should have primed and painted them before fitting! Oh well…

I have also added the brick lining to the tunnel. It will need trimming to the angle of the end wall. I’ll do that tomorrow as well

as hopefully start building a small hut to sit alongside the buffer stops, and decide what to do with the right hand side of the tunnel

mouth. 
 

8 hours ago, westernviscount said:

Thank you to everyone who responded to my earlier comment about motivation. All sound advice. 

 

My move has meant the opportunity to go to a club which I do enjoy, but like Phil, yes it is more tea and biscuits than track and baseboards. 

 

I think I lost my way a bit upon the "completion" of my layout and becoming more interested in the comment and theorising side of RMweb rather than blogging about my stuff. 

 

I remain inspired by other modellers and like Northmoor have stacks of mags, especially MRJ. I am also venturing into the blog section again. I have never been put off by the level of skill of others and despite my tendancy towards envy, I admire their skill. I just feel we are at a time where there is perhaps a two tier system witb those with all the kit and those of us with nothing much more than a scalpel (swann morton of course, it aint all bad) ;-)

 

The reference to 3d printing, lasercut, pete watermans making tracks, youtubers etc is about feeling left behind somewhat. For many years I sensed being part of a group of like minded folk who, yes, have differing skills and chequebook sizes but on the whole, all seem very much linked. I dont really get that sense anymore but perhaps that was the ignorance of my youth at work. The arrogance of a teen identifying with Pete Waterman!! 

 

But, thanks again for all the advice. All sound! I intend to buy the apron I said I was going to wear as a new years resolution and ...

 

I took delivery of this used Jinty. Being as I model blue diesels on the western region I hoped to go in a different direction. I have the January guilt of buying this but as I say it was second hand. It also ran like a pig and I was massively disheartened by this, which certainly contributed to the deflated mojo. I Stripped it down last night and it runs as sweetly as can be expected for what seems to start with a pretty basic drive train. 

 

I will keep folk posted with a blog I am sure. I am thinking a chasis kit perhaps! It all takes time and money of course, both of which are rather scarce currently and for the foreseeable. 

 

Thank you so much again chaps. 

 

‘Swann Morton of course’….priceless throw-away comment - genuine lol from me over my branflakes! 

1 hour ago, magmouse said:

Thanks for the explanation - the curve to get the front track into the tunnel mouth looks quite tight, but maybe it’s just the angle of the photo. It should make a very nice photo plank or display scene.

 

Nick.

I don’t think the curve is that tight in reality although I will check in the morning! 

28 minutes ago, magmouse said:

Looking good!

 

What is your plan with the track work? You've got two lengths of track there (which I assume aren't fixed yet) and a single track tunnel mouth...

 

Nick.

The track is fixed down. The front one is a through road into the single track tunnel, the rear one is a siding which will have buffer stops and then a hut of some sort next to it, so you could park a ballast or ED wagon there. 

As promised, here are some photos of the diorama build in progress. I have yet to decide what happens to the right hand side of the tunnel facing the front, and the bit of brown brick paper lying on the floor is 0.6mm laserboard engraved brickwork to line the inside of the tunnel. The left end has a proper mirror to give the illusion of considerable length. I forgot to measure the whole thing before closing up the workshop but it’s about 1200mm long and about 250mm deep. I cannot claim I painted the backscene as this is a Paul Bambrick original! 
I will try and keep up with ‘in progress’ photos as I work on it. 
Meanwhile whilst the whole diorama will be for sale, I may also sell the tunnel mouth as a kit in 4mm and 7mm, along with the retaining wall. 
 

10 minutes ago, Phil Parker said:

The other thought is to join a local club. Most of the time you'll be standing around drinking tea and chatting about stuff, including model railways, but there will also be opportunities to get involved with bigger projects where you only contribute a small amount (holding bits of wood while they are cut can be the most useful task!) but reap the rewards of being part of a team.

I agree, although I’m not a member of a club!! But in my defence and perhaps to explain/help the OP, for years and years I considered my hobby a lonely and if I’m honest a rather nerdy sad one. As soon as I started posting pics on here, I discovered loads of like-minded people who responded, appreciated, encouraged, commented and otherwise kept me spurred on. Quite a few I now have the honour of calling them my friends. 
Speaking personally, I respond best when someone posts on whatever subject with enthusiasm and pride in what they are achieving, regardless of whether I may or may not consider I could do better. The issue I think is for the creator to have the courage to bare their wares as it were. And we all respond to one another’s enthusiasm with reciprocal enthusiasm. Hope at least some of that makes sense….

By the way, sadly some of the harshest critics can be those who are jealous but can’t show any evidence that they could actually do better. Brush it off…