Bucoops

It does look like there's enough meat on the frames to slot them for the Comet cylinder kit. Will need to file down the top of the frame a bit as well so some serious surgery!

Thanks

I've ordered some paint as I think i need to at least do the wheels soon. From what I can tell I need to use superglue and/or epoxy to glue the weights on. Still not sure what to do with the axle covers as I really would like those to be removable.

I'm still trying to not get too carried away with adding modern bits to it but I think for the valves and motion it's a needs-must situation.

A little bit more progress

Chassis can now be screwed to the footplate and the small box is now soldered in place. There's a *tiny* amount of wonkyness on it that try as I might I couldn't get out. Some I can even out with a file, some hopefully it will end up being passable.

Still need to work out how to fill the valance between the front buffer beam and the start of the valance. 

Now I've turned my attention to the motion and cylinders etc. I have a comet set of motion and also bought the cylinders. Problem with the cylinders is they are designed to fit their etched chassis. I think I'd rather use the while lot as a set rather than use the Jamieson cylinders with Comet motion so need to decide how much cutting to do to the frames and cylinders.

Rich

 

You will spend ages with the slitting disc cutting the unwanted internal sections out

I realised this morning I do need to cut a chunk out the cab spectacle plate - the frames go right through it! The real-deal frames stop at the cab and the Cartazzi hangs off the end - the Jamieson kit frames extend at above footplateheight to the rear of the loco. Not going to be able to hide that easily! And if I managed to find a suitable boiler backplate that would need some slots cutting too. Decisions decisions! I don't really want to think about cutting a huge chunk out the frame just yet.

It's amazing what you can find out with a bit of googling. Found the instructions for the brassmaster version of the A1/A3. Don't think I'll be attempting one of those beauties just yet!

It has somewhat enlightened me to the sheer amount of variations available however. I was still planning to aim for FS at the Empire exhibition but it seems the Jamieson kit isn't suitable for that - would need a different buffer beam and a few other bits. Yes I could make/obtain them but I still want to use as much as possible of the original kit (valve gear and rods now excepting).

I'm assuming (need to check) that the cab and chimney are the LNER size rather than the GNR. So it looks like for convenience I need to look at 1935- which is fine as I still hope to one day have a streamlined train.

And this is supposed to be a de-stress project 

Whoops I slipped - deposit paid.

And I don't even have anything to run it on!

I've fixed the error in the image above. Will leave more time to guess what it was.

Another fiddly bit done - 4 parts make up this component:

Which then fits here (not soldered in yet):

However, when I put the front bufferbeam on I thought I *may* have to trim some of the footplate - now I've assembled this part I now know I need to move the bufferbeam forward and then fill the gap between the back of the beam and the valance. Not sure what to use for that.

Still using too much solder I think - this is proving the hardest part for me!

Another quick query - the wheels from markits have some snazzy etched balance weights and axle nut covers. What's the recommended method to fit these? The balance weights presumably permanently, but the axle nut covers should be removable?

I popped open the kit's motion kit as I don't think it will be that long until I have to attack that. If you recall the con rods are just a length of rail drilled for crank pins. The Motion kit is just stamped from plain sheet. There is no fluting (is that the right term). Bit of a shame as whilst the rest of the kit is basic it would stand out if the rods and motion were like that so I think I need to go shopping again.

Starting to look a bit like a loco However, who can spot the error?

Oh and I've found the kit is missing two pieces - there should be two strips of 1/4" wide brass that you solder to the footplate with holes in for the screws to hold it to the chassis. So have had to buy some strip and an 8BA tap. Forever buying bits!

Got a bit more done. I think it took about 25 minutes to get the firebox piece aligned and clamped, and 30 seconds to solder it. Tried my patience it did! But pretty happy with how it is. Now I'm a bit happier with my ability to tin without using too much solder I've started the first valance.

I'm hoping not to have to chop anything out

Markits stuff has arrived - couple of issues with the wrong axles and the pricing not matching what I was quoted unfortunately.

Gearbox built, straightforward enough but bit of a shame you have to put washers in the axle location - not too bad when the box is out the model but going to be very fiddly for my fat fingers! Took 4 attempts to get them in for this pic

Looks like the gearbox will work fine - without any cutting of the body to fit.

Gearbox has arrived I can carry on with the A1.

Oh I'm sure that's the case. Just don't get why he was exchanging emails all the way through my queries and then when it came to ordering it all went quiet. Never mind, hopefully sorted now!

Try phoning him, mostly he is in the factory part with the machine whirring away, try different times of the day, you have to catch him whilst he is in his office

7 times I think I've tried calling - different times of day but always within the days and times specified. However I have just had an email response so back on track hopefully

Can't even fax an order to Markits - fax machine doesn't pick up. Last option is to post it. Ugh. What a way to run a railroad! Been trying to order for 2 weeks now...

Those sides look a lot like when I tried to paint my first kit - I was utterly heartbroken as until then the kit had gone really well. I'm sure you'll find a way round - your skills are WAY above mine!

Thanks but I like the idea of the main structure being one temperature (and hopefully reasonably easy to assemble) then the fiddly bits a lower temp. Never heard of phoenix paints but have ordered some of the 100deg from them. Carrs rings a bell from way back when, think I had some of their flux.

Not much going on at the moment - work keeping me busy but also waiting for bits to arrive. That's the problem with starting again after so many years - I don't have any scrap bits etc.!

Does anyone else have trouble with contact from Markits? I've exchanged a couple of emails with them about wheels but now I want to order I'm not getting a response and noone answers the phone during the times it says to ring on the website

I know I have the original wheels so not being held up as such but frustrating!

Anyway - I have tried one thing. My first bit of white metal soldering. I don't think I cleaned it up enough first, but it doesn't look too bad -  

I bought half a tender kit to practice on before trying it on something important.

Related to that can someone reccommend a whitemetal solder that has a higher melting point than 70C as that's all I have a the moment and want something higher. I can only find a DCC Concepts one (there's that company again!) but would like to know if there are better ones?

So 0.5mm plasticard is too thick as an insulation spacer. It pushes the contact down to a teensy bit below rail height so it *just* rubs the points.

I don't have anything thinner so have ordered some 0.25mm.

Looking at the motor as well, the motor mounts that came with the kit are whitemetal and suit a DS10 so I am going to try and make something. Not entirely sure what yet but I have the beginning of an idea! I want to make it so the motor is easily changeable.

This is the un-powered bogie after some tweaks and it looks like I should be able to power both. The top part is facing the wrong way, it needs to face inboard.

This is with the side covers lightly clamped in place - the contacts are very visible unfortunately but painted black should be ok.

This is my plan for the contacts for the BTH Type 1 - initially they hung down too low as it was below railhead height so hit points, but filing away some of the casting raised it enough, even allowing for a slim piece of plasticard as an insulation piece. Colour it black and it should be pretty well hidden.

All held on with the same screw that holds the frame together so quite neat

I've filed one end of one bogie - I'll do the others as and when.

I don't think I'll be going down the super-detail route. I want to keep as much of the original kit as possible, with perhaps a few modern add-ons but still keep the vintage look.

Ordered a gearbox - went for a hiflier one with 45:1 ratio - so it won't be able to achieve a scale top speed befitting an A1 but will hopefully be able to do a decent turn of speed as well as haul a decent amount of stock. No stock at present so got to wait a couple of weeks so I might ignore the chassis for a bit - maybe even crack on with the Class 15 instead.

Thanks I have no idea how the Jamieson kit will end up yet! Still plenty of time I guess before i have to make any decisions.

Little bit more progress - a second spacer soldered on one frame then put back into the poppy box and the other frame soldered on. Need to turn it over and solder the other side of the spacers and of course plenty more cleaning up of excess solder!

It really doesn't help that the spacers are slightly curved but the axle holes are square to each other, and the bogie mounting points are as close to square as I can possibly make them.

Had a very quick look at the next part of the firebox. The firebox piece itself appears to be pretty close to the correct shape compared to the footplate and cab front. So I need to open out the taper on the boiler some more to get it to line up. Not easy but getting there...

Hopefully I can find something with a similar taper I can use to help shape it evenly.