MAP66

Yes, I formed a hoop at one end, like you have, which hooks over the brass brake rod and then I drilled a hole directly into the underframe floor to locate the other end. I found it much easier to have the brass rod of the spring overlength and drill the hole straight through the floor. Then pass the rod end of the spring through the hole so it protrudes through to the other side of the underframe floor (no glue yet) then hook the loop of the spring over the the brake rodding. I then applied a small blob of glue via a cocktail stick to each end and when dry snip off the surplus rod with side cutters. Hope that makes sense as this way is easier then trying to exactly measure the length required for the spring rod.

Nice work Rob, I dropped the first spring I made and thought it had been lost to the carpet Demon. Luckily it was a short pile carpet and after a brief search party it was safely recovered. I also added a spring at the loco end, it has it on the isometric diagram and it looks like its on an angle and its not clear how or what it attaches to - I did my own interpretation or representation of how I think it went 🤔

Just a quick update tonight as I’m just reporting that I’ve now completed all the underframe rodding. A couple of images to prove it, not the prettiest thing granted, but I’m made up that I’ve got this far and it still rolls nicely along the track. Primer slapped on the brass work. Next stage to make it all mucky and orrible 🙂

This deserves a mention, great detailing on the border collie, the thing is tiny and you even managed a pink tongue, nice work. By the way the hoss is also exceptional and I'm glad you kept him in. Now, how about a big pile of hoss dung along the path, If I remember rightly @Mikkel knows a thing or two about modelling that!

Another use for 5a fuse wire, eh Rob 😄

Thanks Rob, I suddenly had some inspiration and just went for it, good job most of it isn't even in view on the underside as there are a few wonky bits, nothing a bit of paint can't sort. I used up the last of my 5a fuse wire, not the sort of thing you need anymore. I think I had this stuff from when I used to re-wire my mums old fuses when her lights went out. I fancy a change next, I need to come out from under the coach and might have a stab at painting the interior!

I managed to paint up the bogies, the blue on the axle boxes is Vallejo Prussian Blue with a bit of white mixed in, it looks about right to me. Didn’t have any Humbrol 109, so had to make do 🤔 Next, I fitted the steam and vacuum pipes to the buffer beam at the drivers end. At the loco end I’m leaving them off for now as I need to devise a cunning solution for a flexible connection to the loco with said pipes. I then managed to make a start on the rodding which consists of the auto rod which is 0.8mm brass rod and the brake rodding which is 0.5mm brass. I started with the section of brake rod connecting the vacuum cylinders together, this seemed the most straight forward place to start from reference to the diagram. The diagram shows a spring hanger attached to this length of brake rod which is not part of the detailing kit. I made mine from wrapping 5a fuse wire around a short length of 0.5mm brass rod (see first image). It was then necessary to refit the bogies to allow the auto coupling rod to be fitted, as the rod travels the entire length of the underframe and passes over the top of the bogies. Forget trying to remove the bogies once the auto rod is fixed in place. The auto rod also limits the turning of the bogie (drivers end) so I opted to attach this end of the rod slightly further inwards or away from the wheels. I did it in such a way that it shouldn’t be too noticeable (see second image). I started to put the 3 auto rod hangers in and only the centre auto rod hanger is in the place stated on the diagram. The one at the loco end in my view does not allow enough space in-between where the bogie ends and the edge of the passenger steps. So, instead I located it just to the left of the battery box. The hanger at the drivers end, well there is just no room for it, so I have left this out for now. The next step was to fit the brake rods from the vacuum cylinder cross shafts to each of the bogies to serve the brakes. The 0.5mm brass rod does not attach to anything at the bogies, I just cut it long enough to give an impression that it goes somewhere. I have only completed the loco end as my patience had been tested enough for one day. I’ll have a go at the drivers end tomorrow and then paint them all in. DIY spring made by winding 5a fuse wire around 0.5mm brass rod. I moved the brass rod slightly more inwards to where it should attach to allow more movement on the bogie. Springs in place on the brake rodding

Well, I’m head nurse for the Mrs for the next 8 weeks or so while she recuperates from heart surgery. I’m able to do a bit of light modelling while keeping her company watching the TV and doing puzzle books. I’m picking up where I left off and am just putting up some images of the underframe and I now have the dynamo fitted. The underframe has had a rattle can spray coat of grey primer, followed by Chaos Black and finally the sole bars, truss work and all the added details received a liberal coat of Vallejo German Black Brown applied by brush. Bogies to paint next and another question, can anyone tell me the correct blue for the axle box covers? Dynamo now fitted and I also added 2 lengths of plastrut angle to the side trusses connecting the queen posts. I didn't like that the battery boxes were without backs so I made backs from card. Loco end. Drivers end.

Long for me.

Your best bet would be to see what length looks right, remember we are in the art of compromise in scale, so a prototypical rope length might look too long for your stretch of canal. I would get some cotton thread or similar in scale lengths of 60, 70 and 80 feet and attach in turn each one to the front of the barge and the tail of the horse and take a photo of each one and we’ll let you know which length looks right to us. Just an idea.

Due to unexpected events, I will be putting this project on hold for the time being. I may have opportunity in a couple of weeks from now to start it again but updates will be a bit sporadic at best until things settle down again. Thank you all for following and my apologies for bringing this to a temporary halt just when things were getting interesting. I will be back at some point but at this moment in time, I cannot say specifically when or in what capacity. Regards Mark

I wasn't able to do any modelling yesterday and doesn't look likely today and perhaps even tomorrow. I've gone down with the dreaded Norovirus and feel icky and generally unwell. Hopefully it will run its course quickly and I'll be back modelling again soon. Before the vomiting and squirts started I did however manage to fit the dynamo with bits, spray all the underframe and bogies with grey primer and then with Chaos Black which is one of the War Hammer paints - sorry no image to show. Anyway, I'm looking forward to feeling better and catching up with Rob.

Thanks again for all your input Neal, the way things are going and if I'm not careful, there is a risk of me actually learning more about Auto trailers than when I started 😄

Rob, you should be asleep now after posting all that very, very useful info and great images during the nightshift. I was completely stumped on the dynamo but all is now clear, although I do have several hours of filing ahead of me.

Thanks Rob for putting that up, I just couldn't work out what was going on from looking at fig.15. I had lots of flash on my bits (Oh Matron) and couldn't see the wheat from the chaff so to speak.

Thanks Neal, I would certainly benefit from seeing that photo.

When you have the dynamo and what goes with it fitted, would you mind posting a picture of it. I can't work out what I have in terms of the cast bits as they're a bit blobby. The actual dynamo looks OK but not sure which bits are meant to go with it, or maybe I have something missing? Thanks Mark

You must have experienced a sense of pride and achievement after that successful test run, nice job 👍 I have also experienced success today, after managing to unstick all the offending parts and re-attach them in their correct places without suffering any casualties. I'm thinking its grey primer time next, as you previously suggested, for all the underframe detailing and the bogies. I will need to mask of the carriage wheels first as I don't fancy trying to prize them out of the bogies again, chances are I will break something and I've been lucky so far. Then its rodding time!!!

This might be a solution for the destination boards http://www.precisionlabels.com/sl12.html They can print your choice of destination (only 12 characters though) so ATSON ON CLUN would need to be abbreviated somehow. For me it would be TYTEFORD HT. There is also some additional info on number of boards and where located on the auto coach.

For anyone following this build, I have now corrected my post of 19th March pg17 re. the moulded plastic 'V' hangers to avoid anyone else making the same mistake, Thank you again @MrWolffor getting us all back on track 🙂

Apologies for not replying sooner, I’ve only just finished banging my head against the wall. Good thing is, as soon as you stop you feel so much better 😖 B*gger, I thought using the moulded ‘V’ hangers was going to work, unfortunately I hadn’t contemplated the battery box located drivers end which would be in the way of the bogie. Well I was 50% there as the Loco end is OK. That’s what makes us better modellers, as you have already solved it and removed the offending articles and put them back in their correct locations. All without stamping on it and chucking it in the bin. Your explanation as to what was wrong and how you went about putting it right was crystal clear to me (particularly number 6), I only wish I could say the same about the diagrams in the Dart Castings kit. That’s a fine chisel blade you have there, I have one similar and will need to fetch it and adopt likewise surgery to put mine right. I do remember putting copious amounts of superglue gel when attaching my ‘V’ hangers so I may not be as successful in getting them unstuck – but that’s for tomorrow or when I feel brave enough to take on the task.

Your fix for the 'V' hanger works just as well, I thought about doing it that way, but leaving the outer brass hanger in place isn't noticeable or won't be when painted. Now I have to confess that I have now reached the stage on the underframe where I'm stumped. It's brass rod and single hangers time and I haven't a scooby where to start on that, no matter how many times I study the dodgy drawings. I guess, the best bit would be to fit the battery boxes, then the dynamo and see what space you have left to work with? Any thoughts...

I am now tackling the brake ‘V’ hangers and for the outermost one of each side, as I previously mentioned, I am utilising the retained plastic moulded ones which are part of the truss frame. The brass ‘V’ hangers are from fret 1 and there are 2 of them. When removed from the fret and folded along the etch lines they are ready to receive the cross shafts. I followed the instructions here under item 3.3 (r) and with reference to fig 6/6a and 7. The images below show that I have fitted the cross shafts as per shown in the aforementioned figure drawings. It was then a case of gluing the base of the ‘V’ hanger with cross shafts previously glued in place onto the underside of the underframe. The outside ‘V’ hanger of both assemblies fits hard up against the moulded plastic truss ‘V’ hanger (they are the same height) and done this way, as the brass is very thin, when all painted in will not be noticeable. The below images will show what I mean. This is the way I have done it, utilising the existing hangers results in not everything in the exact locations as shown in the drawings but it works for me. If you prefer, the moulded plastic hangers can be removed and the brass ‘V’ hanger assemblies can be positioned exactly as the drawing shows. I have also found a home for the angle iron 'V' hanger, I think its correct? Hopefully its made clear below;

Ah ha, you've started on the coach interior. Looking good so far, I've been looking forward to getting the paints out for that stage. Before that though, I'm still lurking underneath putting in the two sets of brake 'V' hangers and cross shafts. Should have something on that front to post tomorrow. Oh, and I think I may have sussed where that single angle iron 'V' hanger goes 🤔

Nice to hear from you Chris, Maybe if I pull this off you might open that box again? How's it going over at Warren Branch?