MAP66

I made a decision and went for it, about 20 minutes later I made a further decision and that was to ‘not do the other side’. I can only describe the procedure as nerve wracking and I was glad when it was over. You definitely need a new scalpel blade in the Swan Morten and the more senior of us (me included) would benefit from some optical magnification, I had my trusty optivisor. The glazing has now arrived and I’m at a point where I feel it’s time to tackle the cab interior. I found some informative reference material on YouTube from the South Devon Railway, links below; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rf_ir-1-Ji8&ab_channel=KV12543 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkC8Ox5k6PA&ab_channel=GarethHarrison

I made a start on painting the droplights, I’m still working on one side, it’s had 2 coats so far and 1 more required. The colour I eventually settled on is Humbrol Satin 133, which is a reddish brown. I then thought I would be adventurous and model one of the drivers cab windows in the lowered position. This required removing all of the droplight, retaining the top quarter section and then gluing that back onto the bottom of the window aperture which you can see in the image. I am only doing one side, as I consider it more luck than judgement that I got away without breaking anything in the process.

I was always told to be suitably attired when standing in front of windows, so as to avoid any flashing, That's what I told the judge anyway 😆 Thanks for the tip though as I do have a bit of delicate filing to do around those windows which I had forgotten about. Incidentally, would you mind sharing which colour you are using for the droplights, I have seen pictures where it almost looks to be more of an actual red colour than mahogany, maybe that was for later versions?

Well done for making a start on the droplights, it's a job that I should have completed by now while waiting for the glazing to arrive. I'm a bit daunted by the task though and have put it off. You have given me the necessary impetus to 'get on with it'. I think your method of several coats of paint is the solution I was waiting for. Yes, several thin coats of the brown paint is also the order of the day, I can vouch for that after applying it too thick and regretting it afterwards. Wet and dry paper for us both, I feel.

Well I’m still waiting on the Shawplan glazing to arrive, so in the meantime I’ve been fathing about with internal doors and areas of panelling which won’t interfere with fitting any of the glazing later. I’m adapting some brass LNER internal coach compartment doors from MJT. In an attempt to loosely copy the style of door on the Didcot autocoach, I tried to make them more GWR’ish in appearance, so I opted for non-glazed 2 panel doors for the drivers cab and the luggage compartment (the drivers cab being a sliding door). There is still some trial and error with getting the colours looking right on the panelling. When I’m happy with a colour match I’ll let you all know the colours used. Top glazing bar removed and card inserted into top glazed panel. I probably need to fill the bottom panel with filler to hide the grooves. I also removed about 1mm from bottom of door. Drivers sliding cab door, when properly fitted it will be slightly recessed back from the panel so as to give the effect that it slides open to the left behind the partition wall. Drivers door from inside the cab, slides open to the right, just use your imagination.

That's very, very good, I want one 😀 hats off to you and @chuffinghell I could be on the finishing straight (I’m stretching my imagination in an attempt to visualise crossing the finishing line) still a few bumps in the road to negotiate yet, I feel. Unfortunately, I can’t progress much further until the glazing arrives.

Thanks Neal for that information, very useful. Like you say, I cant (change) remove or add lamps once fitted as they will be wired in. Would it also work as a compromise if I fitted a red lamp as you have said on the lower bracket and a white lamp on the upper bracket and when the coach is driving the white light comes on and when trailing the red light comes on. Would that look more acceptable in your opinion, as I think that would look better at the loco 14XX end as well.

Thanks Rob for the words of encouragement, much needed as I was a bit disheartened, its always a good thing to get another’s perspective. I probably have been a bit hard on myself, given that this is still fairly new to me. Its probably the cruel close ups which caused me to be hard on myself, the lumpy paintwork isn’t really that visible from normal viewing distances. That fuse wire is tricky, as there’s hardly any surface area on the wire for the superglue to grab onto, perseverance is required in bucket loads, was for me anyway. I won’t hold it against you if you either abandon the idea or manage to get it done in 30 seconds flat with no hassle what so ever. I used up about a metre of fuse wire for a job which only required a couple of cm, the rest was lost to the carpet. Those are some interesting projects you have on the horizon, looking forward to seeing those come to fruition. It’s the 14XX for me next, if I ever get this coach completed.

Progress is very slow at the moment, I have been concentrating on adding the detailing parts to both ends of the coach. As I’ve not done anything like this before it took me a little longer than expected. Most of the additional time was spent searching the carpet on my hands and knees with my ‘optiviser’ strapped to my head searching in vain for all the bits I dropped on the floor. Luckily, the detailing kit has spare end steps and handrails as not all the fallen were recovered. While fitting the detailing, I thought about how best to go about painting the coach body work. The coach has a number of small blemishes and scratch marks which will require painting over. To cut a long story short, I should have re-sprayed the coach after I had removed all the plastic mouldings and the body work ends were fairly flat, making it easier to mask off areas prior to painting. Being an impulsive numpty, I decided instead to fit the brass parts first which I then found made it very difficult to mask off over all the uneven surfaces. This then led me to get annoyed and hand paint the ends instead, which I now regret as it looks a bit lumpy. Anyway, that’s my problem to resolve. I just wanted to point out that it’s a good idea to have a plan beforehand regarding paintwork and if its required then undertake it after all the parring off and hole drilling is completed but before you stick anything back on. I intend adding working directional lamps to the driving end of the coach and at the front of the 14XX, so I have some questions as working out cable routing is required pretty soonish. Hopefully, someone out there who follows this will have an answer or two, so here goes; My plan is to use DCC Concepts lamps, they have white, red and combined white/red lamp lights and my questions relate to correct lamp positions at each end of the train for each direction of travel; Q1: When the coach is driving, would the lamp be positioned on the central lamp iron just below the windscreen? Q2: When the coach is trailing, where would the tail lamp be positioned, same place as above or on the lower lamp iron? Q3: Would it be acceptable to use the same lamp position (central top) for driving and for a tail lamp. If so, then I can use the combi lit lamp. Q4: Same questions apply to the 14XX, where would the lamps be positioned for both directions of travel? I've included some slow progress pics... Drivers end, bits to remove totals 2 lamp irons, 2 steps and 6 handrails. Also to remove the drivers cab door hand rails each side - not in view. Just the lower lamp iron to go (I forgot it). 1 casualty circled red, as a result of the blade slipping and taking out the small moulding detail. All brass detailing added. Shame about the dodgy paintwork!! I stole @MrWolf fuse wire idea for the electrical connector block. Now the before, during and after for the loco end. So far, so good. Oh no, I've ar5ed the paintwork up.

As Auto trailer 178 approaches Tyteford Halte, strange grinding noises and vibrations were emanating from somewhere beneath the driving cab floor. A quick visual inspection follows...

I did say that I would postpone the interior work until the glazing arrived. However, no sooner than I posted that announcement and in the post arrived the ModelU passengers and driver. So me being me, I immediately painted up up one of the passengers to see how it might look in the carriage. It transpires that the passengers would probably fit better at 1/87 (HO scale) as the seating, armrests etc seem to be a little under scale compared to the 1/76 scale figures. I also experimented with printing some vintage GWR seating pattern onto a sticky label and then applied that to one of the long bench seats, just to see how it might look. I think it looks alright and I've made the decision that it's worth the effort of covering all the seating using this method. No he hasn't been stabbed in the chest, it's meant to be a cravat! You can see how much higher his leaning arm is above the arm rest. Should still be fairly visible through the new glazing when fitted and with the roof on. Couldn't resist messing about. There's a rumbling, grinding sound from under the cab floor which requires further investigation. Or in B&W.

Ah ha, finally the great reveal for the fuse wire, that should look pretty good. There's probably even a few more uses for it for cables etc within the driving cab.

I made the decision to postpone continuing with the interior detailing until the glazing from Shawplan arrives, I ordered it yesterday. I just wasn’t happy with the SE Finecast stuff. I need the glazing to understand how I can insert the panelling beneath the windows. I also ordered some much thinner profile sheets of wood cladding (0.5mm instead of 2mm thick) which should make things easier to fit and work with. While waiting, I shall revert to the Dart kit of detailing parts and make a start on the exterior embellishments which adorn the cab front and rear end of the coach. This will first involve very carefully removing the plastic moulded detailing on the Airfix coach ends. New chisel blades will be inserted into their appropriate handles and I will adopt the upmost concentration to avoid any slips of the blade and the resultant gouges into the bodywork. Hopefully, I will then have something resembling @MrWolf work from Aston on Clun pg 294.

Poor old Stan Shorthouse was born far too early to benefit from his daily intake of vitamin D and as a consequence developed a severe case of rickets "couldn't stop a pig in a passage" they would say. That's my story as to why he measures 5' tall in his socks.

He answers to both, as he's deaf in one eye.

That's a thought Chris, I checked and its available in HO. I think as I have the OO driver on order I will wait and see what he looks like with shorter legs. I already have a name for him (GWR driver Stan Shorthouse) 😄

Just to illustrate further Robs earlier point on the height compromise required for the driver figure to enable him to see where he's going. This is a ModelU signal man used to represent the driver, the figure is 24mm tall. Front view, using same figure. Looks like up to 4mm will need to be lost in the leg dept. to get an acceptable height as seen in image below. Top of peaked cap seems to be just below top of windscreen, which means adapted figure of driver will need to be 20mm tall approx.

I've ordered the passengers and driver and when they arrive, I will conduct my prognosis on the driver and the best outcome for him regarding surgery. Initially, I'm thinking to put the cut line across his legs just below where his right hand ends, remove around 2mm and then re-join with the aid of some filler to blend it all in. His left arm may also require surgery to align the drivers hand with the controls.

Looking good Rob, I prefer your version of the luggage compartment door mounted onto the tapered fillet. What’s your take at the driving cab end, as I’ve seen images with what looks like a single door and also with a double door? Also, what to do for doors in the small vestibule area where passengers enter the carriage? To secure the roof I’m thinking about experimenting with some tiny magnets I have.

Yesterday, I was dabbling with the coach interior and working out how to add cladding into the luggage compartment, drivers cab and within the seating sections of the coach. Then I thought, how much would actually be visible through the glazing with the roof on, not a lot it turns out. You would certainly need to install some interior lighting to show off all that hard work (another job added to the list). While contemplating all this I discovered that the replacement glazing for the luggage area, at least, is a bad fit. Haven’t tried all the other windows as yet, but certainly there is an issue with the luggage compartment windows, as in my case they are not tall enough and slightly too wide. I think its noticeable and so will be fitting the original Airfix glazing back for these windows. For the panelling, I’m using tongue and groove profile sheet for the luggage compartment around the door partition and the end bulkhead. The profile sheets are quite thick about 2mm which is fine for the luggage compartment, as there’s bags of room, pun intended. The drivers cab, however, is tight for space so card with the boarding scribed on would be better. Scribed on card would also be the choice for the seating areas of the carriage from the floor up to the bottom of the windows. For the doors I will be using card with some plastrut for the door frame. Another thing which was bugging me and needed addressing was the screw boss on the floor within the driving cab. Its very unsightly and clearly visible through the windows so I decided to remove it and filled in the hole. Should also make it easier for the driver to fit. Cladding sheet on the bulkhead, loose fitted for now to allow removal for painting. My representation of the door, not my finest work! Will look better when painted. Driving cab showing screw boss removed and filled in. Excuse the painting, I'm still experimenting 🤔

To me, 'C' has the better head shape than the metal versions. To make the feathers less pronounced give it a coat of white primer and then a couple of coats of white, that should loose some of the definition then place it on the canal along side the metal swan and see which looks best.

Thanks Rob, those pictures are certainly useful. I'm not near the kit at the moment but I think there are 3 or 4 detailing parts included for the driving cab. However, looking at the images there is a lot more going on, so maybe some plastic micro rod, plasti-card and bits from the scrap box could be put to good use to try and add a bit more detail. In other news, I think I've found a reasonable colour match for the sides of the chairs and the panelling, remarkably, its an old tin of Airfix gloss paint G18 (Golden Brown) who knew!

Hi Keith, Thanks for sharing those images, your Dad certainly crammed in as much detail as possible. How on earth did he manage to get his initials on the seat back covers - incredible. I think you've convinced me to press on with upholstering the seating now 👍 A few of you have asked after the Mrs (AKA Jill) she is doing as well as can be expected, its a 12 week recovery period and today is her second week post op. The next hurdle is to get the Warfarin (blood thinning) dosage right as this is critical to avoid any blood clots. we're taking it one day at a time but keeping a positive outlook. Thanks again to everyone for asking how she's doing.

My plan was to add these doors as part of the coach interior upgrade as they would be visible through the glazing and open gaps instead of doors looks wrong to me. I also have a plan to hide the sound decoder and speaker in the luggage compartment as I doubt if they would fit in the loco and then hide them behind some luggage. I'm sure I could figure out a non visible wiring route from the decoder back to the 14XX motor! If I get time today I aim to get some matching colours (by mixing paints) as per the photo for all the woodwork. Looks like there's 3 colours involved, a pale colour as seen in the photo either side of the door above the waist line, a mid brown mostly used on the chair sides, doors and some panelling and the dark brown which I think was mahogany for the chair legs and window frames and reveals. Is that your take on the colours Rob?

I thought it might be of benefit, for anyone embarking on taking the detailing kit on and daft enough to add the springs to the underframe to show the one I installed at the loco end, so below is a close up. I'm not saying its correct but the drawing shows a spring at an angle and attached somehow to the crank? So this is how I did it. I also visited the Ministry of Silly Ideas today and came away with the idea of upholstering the interior coach seating, with printed paper of course not fabric, I'm not a complete loon. I thought it would look better than just a flat colour painted on. My first experiment, looks kind of promising and the paper is just laid on and not glued just to get an idea. Have I got the patience to explore this any further? Maybe, I think I need to paint in the floor and the seat edges, panelling etc. first to get the full effect before I make a decision.