Daveglew

If you have a printer, I can recommend self adhesive vinyl sheet. You can make your own panel with ply, thin MDF, dibond, perspex, ally sheet etc. Print your mimic diagram (I use Anyrail and PowerPoint for the artwork) onto plain paper and tape to panel. Drill everything through the paper template. Remove paper and apply vinyl in its place. Using a sharp knife cut the holes in the vinyl to match and then attach switches leds etc. I hold leds in place with a dab of superglue. I would also recommend sealing the vinyl print with spray matt lacquer first, just as you would for card buildings.

Does anyone have any experience of DIY extension pins for Peco point motors. I have about 20 motors which I would like to mount sub baseboard without attaching to the points. Pun extensions from Peco are expensive. Ideas welcome.

Hi all, have you ever "hoovered" up your flock/scenic material, only to find bare patches where you don't want them? I have recently laid a load of both fine and course "scatter" material and am left with gaps too small and numeroys to really brush pva into but too big to ignore. I would like to lay a 2nd layer and had considered overspraying the lot with a dilute pva mix but my concern is that this may spoil what is already stuck. I would welcome your thoughts and experiences please.

Apologies if this has been covered before but I saw an item on YouTube (search diy static grass and you'll find them) which I have since tried and the results are good. Basically it uses a cheap electronic fly swatter and you simply replace the tennis racket head with a small metal tea strainer to hold the grass. You then tape a piece of greaseproof paper to a metal baking tray and clip one lead to the tray. Apply PVA to the paper, add grass to the Tea strainer, energise the thing and sprinkle away. Leave to dry and simply peel the tufts off the paper. Can also be done in situ with a nail sitting in the blobs of PVA.

Has anyone replaced (rather than extend) the Peco pins as the extension kits from Peco seem expensive when you have a lot to use. If so, how did you do it and what gauge wire did you use as a replacement pin?

Has anyone replaced (rather than extend) the Peco pins as the extension kits from Peco seem expensive when you have a lot to use. If so, what gauge wire did you use as a replacement pin?

I have also used this method for shunting trucks..... I have found it very effective for 00. Now I'm looking for something similar for N gauge Rapido couplings..... any ideas guys? For instance, does anyone know if the frets for Peco electromagnets fit with Rapido couplings?

Here is a link to the N Gauge Forum (you may need to register with the forum to view). One of the members has an excellent decription of how to "hack" a servo to make it drive continuously and then show how to turn it into an excellent point actuator. Converting a servo like this is both cheap and effective and has multiple uses (not exclusively N Gauge! ).......for points, signals, gates etc. Hope this helps. http://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=32488.msg380059#msg380059

Great site.....very useful for planning

Great site.....very useful for planning

Thanks for the replies chaps......much appreciated.....maybe it was a deeper question than I initially thought so lots of ideas here for me to ponder......particularly with the GWR slant.

Hi all, Wonder if you can help this modelling newbie with a design please.I am planning an N Gauge layout using the classic design attached. The two main line tracks will disappear at each end to a loop fiddle yard. However to add additional scenic and operational interest I would like to add a single line branch terminus leading off to its own hidden storage. Could someone please advise where this should join the plan please as I am keen to keep things as "genuine" as possible.