brenn

It to late for that.....lol I have filled the hole now and touched up the blue paint so hopefully it won’t be noticeable once weathered. I found drilling either with big or mini drill should be a very last resort as you can’t see or feel what’s happening with the screw due to the deep recess holes. Having tried all the suggestions drilling, lighter fluids, WD40, that the super glue option is the best, but take care to get only a little bit of glue on the tip and that the glue is a 20 seconds type to allow seating in what’s left of the screw tread. B

That exactly my problem...... I’ve not used it for years......how easy does the top of the bogie tower cover come off.....what’s the best technique? Im going through my collection chipping them now I’ve starting to build my layout and the amount that I’ve found that has some issue is really annoying....especially trying to get the copper lights lugs to contact properly. Thanks B

Hi Has anybody had a Lound thumping/ticking sound coming from the power bogie. The vibration is so bad that the coupling hook bounces around uncontrollably. Has anyone had this before or idea how to fix it? I had the bogie off and tried to a-line all the cogs but this problem hasn’t gone away. I tried to upload a video from my phone but the file bigger than the website upload limit. Thanks in advance

Hi I’ve dusted down my Hornby class 56 ( blue 56 013 new type) for chipping to Dcc. Once I got it on the rolling road I found the motor buzz but no moment. I been to stripping it down so can see what might be the cause and can see the motor try to spin but the Carden shafts binding. I think it a problem with the gear trains in the bogies so wound like some advice so I don’t damage it. 1 how is the bogie tower removed from the chassis 2 Can I gain access to the gears in the bogie by removing the bottom of the bogie? If so how’s this done. please send pictures if you can thanks in advance B

I don’t understand? B

Point taken, but any damage or fault should be listed or mention especially if it’s on line auction as by the time the commission and postage is taken in to account these prices didn’t reflect a reasonable value. E bay does require such issues to be discussed and I think auction sites should do the same especially if the don’t work out of the box as the price should reflect the risk of diy repair time and replacements costs. B B

Super glue is the winner!!!!! I should have waited until the SG arrived but learnt the lesson now. The screw treads are shot on the body but not enlarged so now I’ve got the body off I’ll get new screws and blob of canopy glue down the hole when I attach the body. I found one of those nasty old Bachmann decoders which I can’t seem to get my Lenzs 100 to read any address as I just get the Err 02 message when I put it on the program track. This is a shame as I got 5 of these chips and I had this issue with all of them in different locos. When I do get the system to recognise the chip and program an address they revert back to 003. I’ve swap it out for a Dcc concept black and I must say the difference In running quality is amazing even with a stay alive. The screw that went through the body came out and the hole been filled but unfortunately it’s gone through the bonnet hatch bracket but I think I can hide it with weathering. Thanks to you all for your suggestions as I tried them all and the super glue on a cheap jeweller screw driver is definitely the way to go. I used rocket hot to coat the tip and pressed down for a minute then wound the screw with a little upwards pressure and they all came out easily. I think I may get the problem again so useful lesson learnt.

Selector? Specials?

Update ive tried all the suggestions now with only the super gluing left. I can move the screws, which I don’t think are the original screws, but drilling them out has only mangled the body shell and will means that I have to completely rework how to refit it once chipped and serviced. The one thing I have learnt from the Dcc conversation I have embarked on recently is to test all the locos if I’ve bought them from eBay as soon as I can. I have found problems with every loco I have got through eBay or at auction in some way. The ease of chip fitting varied greatly depending on manufacturers and age of the loco with the recent Dapol loco being less hassle and I especially like to wired links to the lights as the Bachmann latched copper strips doesn’t always fit properly once the body put back. B

Update report 1 light fluid freezing didn’t work at all 2 Drill out the screw cause a screw to pop through the bonnet......argh..... It was very hard with a mini drill to see what was going on......drilling not ideal but I’ve just received a small extraction bit so that next on my list of how to mangle a professionally weather loco.....,,arghhhhh. I wouldn’t mind so much but I just sold a new version of the same loco recently. Oh well in for a penny and all that......

Yeah I think your right The screw drivers turn up today and didn’t work so got the drill bits out.... I’ll have a crack tomorrow as I’m still dealing with the mountain of issues I found with the other stored locos I’m running in after a long time in storage. Today nightmares are a Hornby 101 which seems to have a binding gear which makes the bogie jump and a Hornby Britannia which is just dead......arghhh....

Problem with that is the screws are quite deeply recessed and I’d think I wouldn’t be able to get the tip down the hole without melting the plastic around it thank anyway for the suggestion B

O no I used to get that train from school home out of Liverpool Street.....that’s a bad omen I best not try it in the shed just in case B

Sounds interesting.....lucky in just got some lighter fuel the other day....I’ll try that if the magnetic screwdriver doesn’t work thanks B

Don’t forget the 17 has them as well

Yeah I think your right about that I can’t really get good purchase with the jewellers screw drivers I’ll see how this magnetic driver goes when it arrives B

Thanks I’ll look them up.... I guess they are USA based? B

Thanks......that’s funny.....but so true....I have felt like get the mighty hammer to it on many occasions but I like it as it had a professional weathering job when I bought it on e bay and does look good, once again the fitting of Dcc chips had taught me some locos more than others are “Dcc ready”. The one thing that’s been good is that it reminds me of the old school Lima and Hornby which need to be stripped down regularly to get the best from them. Now day I find I’m afraid of breaking something. I just come to term with amount of details I need to repair......pipes ,battery boxes, steps,hand rails ....some thing drops off once handled! I ordered a magnetic screw drivers and one of those screw extraction kit which looks like a bit small enough to try so I see how that goes. B

Thanks I’ve tried that with the jewellers screw drivers but no good. The problem is the screw are all deep in screw hole. I’ll have a look on eBay for those tools which I’ve seen for normal sized screws but not small ones. anybody got any advice as to which Good quality screw drivers and where to get them as by the look the screws in my Bachmann fleet this issue is going to happen again. Another issue today is getting all the light lugs on Bachmann bodies to line up correctly once I’ve chip the body.....Claas 37s are especially painful to get cab lights working. I must say Dapol have thought this problem though with easy to remove bodies, space for the chip not to foul the body, and wire lighting connections. I’m 20 locos done so far and more to go. One good thing happened today I managed to get a model zone NSE 03 which I discovered wasn’t working on testing on dc back in to the land of the living. Lesson learnt test all locos as soon as I get them especially if bought from auction site. I’d only bought it as part of a package and want to sell it on eBay so wasn’t happy when it didn’t work. B

You can get some water slide transfers from e bayer trouty Helen they did the plain blue logos in different sizes.......got some awhile back and I’d recommend them B

Thanks that sounds a practical solution I mite try B

Did you use a pin vice type drill or electric mini drill? ive just recently started fitting Dcc chip to my collection of locos and frankly I’ve been amazed at the amount of problems I’ve had with body screws either being stuck or the plastic not holding screws at all. I’ve even had a Hornby 31 where along the same side a screw snap in the brass pocket completely and the other plastic body extension pocket from the roof snapped off.....I’ll have to drill out that remaining screw tread some how and was thinking of gluing the drill bit once I’ve got a little way in and then using plyers to see if it’ll screw out with out damage. I’ve got a number of locos I can’t get the bodies off at all, chief amount them are a Bachmann 416 emu which seem stuck solid at the back and a Bachmann 24 which seems stuck on a chip already installed. It’s really infuriating. Any advice would be greatly appreciated B B

Hi all, I tried the tighten them but no use.....I’m using jeweller screw drivers which are those cheap one in socket sets and I can see them wearing down when they bite with pressure. I thought about using super glue but wasn’t keen on that option in case the tip sticks the plastic in the screw shafts.......I’m not sure how the rubber band idea would work but worth a try I suppose. which brand of high quality screw drivers would you recommend? thanks for you suggestions please keep them coming B

I've bought a weathered Bachmann class 40 from e-bay some time ago and now that want to fit a dcc decoder 6 of the 8 screws wont budge.....I think the heads may be treaded and I need advise on how best to remove them without damage to the body. Can anyone please give me some ideas as to how best remove and replace these errant screws please? thanks B

Yes there’s a email sent directly from SLW 25324 domino a few greens and Ethel 2 pictures of complete locos which look excellent. The web site launch after redevelopment is 1/3/21 B