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If you carry out what 'Pete the Elaner' suggests and it has no effect, see if you can check CV5, which sets the maximum voltage. According to a Zimo manual on the web, it may be set at 1, which should have no effect. It should be 0,1 or over 100. You could try setting it to zero, which effectively turns this CV 'off'. CV6 (mid-speed) should also be zero. This is a 'long shot' I'm afraid as I would expect the Zimo defaults to be the optimum settings.

Bear in mind that if JMRI does not recognise the decoder, you can use the Direct NMRA option for decoders not in the list. The only disadvantage is that the JRMI software does not 'interpret' the CVs into the functions they perform, you just get a list of CVs and their values, not all the tabs shown in the screenshots above. DCC Concepts produce a manual for their decoders https://www.dccconcepts.com/manual/zen-black-decoder-manual/ which can be useful for those CVs which should apply to all decoders. The NMRA list is here. Although the SPROGII is primarily considered for writing and reading CVs, I use one on my small layout (i.e. one loco at at a time) as my main controller, using JRMI with 'Engine Driver' on a smartphone.

Like 'Andymsa', I've used the Direct NMRA option for decoders not in the list. The only disadvantage is that the JRMI software does not 'interpret' the CVs into the functions they perform, you just get a list of CVs and their values. DCC Concepts produce a manual for their decoders https://www.dccconcepts.com/manual/zen-black-decoder-manual/ which can be useful for other decoders.

I have a SprogII which I use with JRMI software, running on an old Windows 7 laptop, using an Android smartphone running the 'Engine Driver' app. I found this easy to use. JRMI will cope with 30 functions. As Nigelcliffe writes, you will need to consider how you want to control trains and, possibly, accessories. If you can cope with some 'teccy' bits and have a computer and smartphone the SPROG/JRMI option is flexible and relatively cheap.

I've got some old chains of LED Christmas lights and have been wondering how to use them, and their associated power supplies. This is what I have come up with so far: The LEDs are 3V, usually connected in series depending on the power supply. I have used one to provide the headlight for a 'round the Christmas tree' train powered by a 3V motor. Power supplies, other than batteries, come in a variety of voltages from about 20 to 30V, AC or DC. The AC power supplies feed into a control box to set various flashing modes. I am confused by the flashing modes. I have a string of LEDs, powered by 3AA batteries, which have two leads from the control box and then two leads into each LED and two out, As far as I can see the LEDs are wired in parallel but they can be set to flash alternately. I'm trying figure out the circuit. Anyone have other suggestions for uses of old Christmas lights?

I presume you have read the thread, 'What DCC controller for £250?' which discusses the pros and cons of the NCE system. If you want a 'walk around' system it is worth looking at those linking to a smartphone, assuming you have a wi-fi signal in the garden.

I'm a little concerned. I'm assuming the input to the transformer is mains with an output of 11.6v. As has been said above, a transformer only works because it uses an alternating current. If you don't understand that, you shouldn't be messing with mains electricity. Sorry to be so brutal but lives are literally at stake here.

Roger There's a lot of useful advice above. If you can get to a good shop specializing in DCC (or a show), I would do. Hopefully you could see some of the systems in action. They should be able to give you the cost involved in getting a system up and running, including DCC point control and any boosters. If you can, look at the manuals - how easy are they to use? My experience with my neighbour's NCE system is that you cannot select locos from a list, you have to know the address of each loco. His handsets only store the details of two locos, although I think this has now increased to four. I would check out how easy it is to change points using the handset. As has been mentioned above, the NCE system is now rather dated and you may be better off considering one which links to a smartphone and computer. I think NCE has an option of a USB interface but don't know how easy it is to set up. Support has also been mentioned above, if you haven't already done so, it's worth looking at the forums on each manufacturer's website to see the problems others have encountered.

If you have a spare laptop, have you considered the Sprog3 with JMRI software? JRMI is probably not as user friendly as proprietary software but is well supported. My neighbour has NCE Powercab. It's proved reliable, although I don't think it is as easy to use as JMRI's DecoderPro. You mention DCC control of points. That's where complexities come in. Do you need DCC?

Many years ago I connected two connector blocks by inserting long split pins though one connector, tightening the screws and inserting the protruding pin into the top screws of the second block. Wires are connected by attaching to the split pin on one side and screwing the other wire into the second block. You could use nails instead and solder to the head.

JRMI is free but can be a bit teccy. I've found JRMi's DecoderPro to be very easy to use for changing CVs. It should work with the Elite https://www.jmri.org/help/en/html/hardware/index.shtml

Halsey My neighbour is in a similar position to you. He is not at all teccy and has a layout about the size of yours but with three ovals of track and many sidings I helped him with his wiring which consists of two feeds (using Peco clips) to the two outer ovals and point clips (https://www.Hornby.com/uk-en/shop/power-control/dcc-accessories/Hornby-digital-electric-point-clips.html) fitted to Peco setrack points. It is far from best practice but it works in an outside shed with three locos running around the ovals. As with DC, keep the tracks and wheels clean. In my experience with his layout you do not need complex wiring. The only problem is fitting the point clips is a bit fiddly. Looking at your layout I'd put a feed into each oval and fit point clips where needed, that is where you want both tracks 'live' as opposed to only the one set for the route. If you aren't bothered about sidings being isolated where the point isn't set to them, you don't need to fit clips. I'm not familiar with 'lIve' frog points but I suspect they will need more complex wiring (as they do for DC),

I would advise you to read (if you haven't already done so) the section on 'Which decoder should I use' at http://www.zimo.at/web2010/products/lokdecoder_EN.htm. Zimo generally recommend the MX630. If the early diesel is labeled 21DCC it will need a 21 pin plug, which is not listed for the MX600R. As I said in an earlier post, take off the loco body, check what DCC socket you have and what space is available and then seek advice from a DCC retailer as to the appropriate decoder. I don't have any experience of the Bachmann decoders, but you may also wish to consider these, since they should be compatible with their locos.

You will need to retain your DC controller as any DCC system you buy probably will not be able to supply the necessary power. It's better to keep the two systems (trains and point motors) entirely separate. I've done this, using an old H&M Clipper controller to supply my Peco point motors.

You will need a decoder with the appropriate plug. I suggest you remove the loco body and photograph the socket. Take/send this to the retailer when buying the decoder (or quote the exact details of the loco) and ask them for options . Some decoders plug directly into the socket (OK if there is space); some come with wires attached to a plug (useful for placing the decoder in the best place).

If an old loco has no reference to DCC on the box, it may be possible to fit a decoder. As I understand the issue, it is essential that the motor is completely isolated from the track current, or the DCC chip will fail. Some older locos may have a 'live chassis' where the motor is connected to the chassis for one feed and to one side of the wheels for the other. Unless the motor can be isolated from the chassis in some way, these locos can't be converted. Where the motor can be isolated, that is wheels from each side of the loco feed the motor, conversion should be possible. I've done it with a Hornby Thomas (instructions https://www.Hornby.com/uk-en/Hornby-dcc/decoder-installation-guides/r351-thomas-the-tank-engine-0-6-0-decoder-installation). (This is worth looking at whatever your loco, as the principles are the same). There is also a Railway Modeller 'Shows you how' booklet on DCC decoder installation, which is probably worth buying. This includes how to convert an older Bachmann loco with a split chassis. One obvious problem is space within the loco body to fit the decoder. Before buying a decoder, check that it will fit the loco. You may also need space for a 'stay alive' capacitor. These store electricity to prevent locos stalling when there is a loss of supply. In my experience they are not necessary if you have locos with sprung wheels, clean track, clean wheels and, preferably, live frogs. However my 'Thomas' does not have sprung wheels and even though wheels and track are clean, it frequently stalls on my insulated frog points. However my Bachmann 56XX, with sprung wheels, has no problem. A DCC clip (https://www.Hornby.com/uk-en/Hornby-digital-electric-point-clips.html) is used to provide power to track when the point is not switched to that track. In other words, sidings are always live. My neighbour uses them on his extensive layout with very few problems. They can be difficult to fit and I'm not convinced of their electrical connectivity. They are often dislodged by a derailment. I don't use them on a much smaller layout because my sidings don't need current when the point is not switched to them. I would plan to provide feeds to all the track which will require current whatever the point direction.

I would sum up the pros and cons of DC and DCC as follows: DC pros For a layout with only one loco on the track - cheap and simple. DC cons For a layout with more than one loco on the track - requires ability to isolate locos. For a layout running more than one loco - requires more complex wiring and multiple controllers. DCC pros Individual control of locos, so no complex wiring. Many controllable functions available, such as lights and sound. Improved slow running, compared to a DC resistance controller. Can operate accessories using DCC. DCC cons Comparatively expensive. DCC decoders, for each loco, typically cost around £20 each. Controllers may be several £100. Sound can add £100 to the cost of a loco. Some technical 'involvement' required. At a minimum, a new loco's address will need to be changed from the default value of 3. To get the best out of DCC more technical involvement is required. You will need to buy and fit DCC decoders to your existing DC locos. This can be difficult - may require soldering and space for the decoder might be a problem. Older locos may not be convertible. Some new locos may not have DCC decoders fitted. Check that the retailer will do this for you, if required. Operating accessories using DCC requires more technical knowledge, expense and wiring. The big question revolves round the technical involvement required by DCC. If you have trouble setting up a video recorder or using a smartphone, DCC is unlikely to be your 'cup-of-tea'. My advice would be to visit a shop specialising in DCC and ask them to demonstrate how they would change the address of a loco for each system they sell. Could you do this? Ask to look at a copy of each manual. Does it look as though you could understand it? Will the shop provide telephone assistance if you get stuck? How expensive is the system they are demonstrating? It may not be the 'basic' system they will sell to you. Incidentally, does the information given in the video about DC voltages apply to modern DC controllers? I thought they provided pulsed DC (PWM - pulsed width modulation) in the same way that DCC does. (PWM provides a constant 12v and controls speed by sending pulses, 'square waves', to the loco. The longer the pulse the higher the speed). The difference being that DCC also uses PWM to send information to the DCC decoder in the locomotive. Certainly DCC should be better for slow running than an old DC resistance controller but I've no experience with a modern DC PWM controller.

Phil S's post is comprehensive but possibly scary if you are contemplating DCC. Let me give the basic view. My neighbour has an extensive layout, about 8ft by 10ft, more train set than model railway. He has about 10 locos on the layout at anyone time controlled by two NCE handsets. The layout has around 30 points, all operated manually. He is such a technophobe he won't even open the NCE manual. I'm happy to help him because I get to play trains (and am given the occasional apple crumble). Where have I had to help? Layout wiring: I've provided just two feeds to this big layout (!) with no running problems. All points (Peco setrack) are fitted with point clips. He needs to clean the track though. DCC loco number: I have given him a step-by-step guide to change the loco address of new locos. This is the one 'complication' of DCC not required of DC and is essential as all new locos come with the address of 3. Programming this new number is ideally done with no other locos on the layout or on a special programming track. You can program 'on the main' but this is an additional complication. If all else fails we use the SprogII on my layout to read and write to the loco decoder. DCC function numbers: New sound locos come with lots of bells and whistles (literally) and cab lighting, which is on function 13. I've had to reprogram his NCE handset so that the 'Option' button now can access functions 10 to 19. It's all in the manual but a bit teccy. So that's the minimum you can get away with on DCC which is so much more flexible than DC when you have many locos on the same layout. You don't need to operate point motors using DCC and in some cases it is probably easier not to. My neighbour is not using the full range of DCC functions but is very happy with the way his layout works.

Thanks for your clarification Andrew. My comment was based on the one amp limit for the SprogII.

Sprog Details available at https://www.sprog-dcc.co.uk/ I bought a SprogII about 12 months ago on Ebay and use it on a small (6ft by 2ft) OO layout with one loco operating at any one time. The Sprogs require a 12V power supply and USB input from a computer running a free program from JRMI (https://www.jmri.org/). I use Decoder Pro. I found the system easy to set up, although the 12V supply from an old Hammant and Morgan 'Clipper' did seem to cause problems, so I found a redundant 'plug' transformer supplying 12V. The SprogII requires about an amp but will only drive one loco. For any more you will require a Sprog 3 and 12V Power Supply Unit (PSR) delivering 3 Amps. I found that setting up the Sprog was relatively straightforward in DecoderPro and the reading of locomotive decoder CV values I find much easier than with my neighbour's NCE system. If he has problems with his loco decoders he brings them to me. Details of locos available on the layout are entered into a 'Roster' and selected from this. CVs can be updated on a series of screens. I have loaded the 'Engine Driver' app onto my Android smartphone and this links to DecoderPro over my home wireless network. The screens on the app are used to select locos from the 'Roster' and can be tailored to operate up to four locos. Again I find it easier to use than the NCE controller, which requires entry of the loco's address. The JMRI software can be used to control accessories and automate the layout but I've not tried to do this and suspect it may be more difficult than with some of the other DCC systems now available. Perhaps other Forum members with more experience than me would like to update this thread? Advantages Relatively cheap, if you have a suitable computer Decoder CVs easy to read and amend The full screen of a computer provides more information than the limited LCD screens of other DCC systems Can use a Smartphone for control Disadvantages SprogII only suitable for one loco, or a programming track on a larger layout. JRMI not always easy to use, but there is a very active, helpful forum

I'm a newbie to DCC and this forum, so please take my advice with a pinch of salt. I have a small layout (6ft by 2ft) with a terminal station and sidings. I operate it using a SprogII linked to a laptop running Decoder Pro from JRMI. This works well and I can control the locos from an Android smartphone using the Engine Driver app linked to the laptop over my home network. This would only be suitable in a an exhibition if you had access to wireless. If you want to operate more than one loco simultaneously you would need a Sprog3. I find this arrangement makes the selection of locos much easier than with my neighbour's NCE system. I have used Decoder Pro with a neighbour's loco with fitted sound and it seemed OK. As has been written above, you can't use an analogue loco with DCC. You could use the JRMI software to control the accessories with suitable modules, but I suspect that's a steep learning curve. As mentioned above, it may be better to keep the accessories under analogue control.

Getting back to your original question, try the free book from MERG https://www.merg.org.uk/ebook.php. It's probably more than you need but you can always miss out the parts which are too technical.

Nigel Thanks for your advice. My main aim (at age 71) is to keep my brain cells in operation by using electronics to control a model railway, starting simply at first with 'manual control' through a computer and developing this until full automation, or my brain cells fuse (probably the latter). I have some knowledge of electronics and coding (BBC micro:bit and Acorn Atom!). Hence I am quite happy to use MERG kits and JRMI. My general impression of trying to understand electronics for model railways is that it isn't easy. Most websites assume you know much about the subject before starting. However, the MERG book, 'Electronics for Model Railways' by Davy Dick https://www.merg.org.uk/ebook.php is very good.

Agreed, but it's a good starting point to slowly (and cheaply) move towards computer control. My intention is to use MERG modules to gradually automate.

I'm comparing it with my neighbour's NCE system which cost several £100. With JMRI it's far easier to see and modify all the CV values, easier to select and change locos and I can use a smartphone to control - all for £30 (plus spare laptop and 5v power supply).