grriff

But you will also need a computer running JMRI and a 12V regulated supply. I bought a SPROGII from ebay for around £28 and it's very good for reading and writing to decoders plus controlling DCC locos. However, there's not much point in the investment unless you want to establish a DCC layout.

An alternative is to write the value 8 to CV8 (if your controller will do this). This will set the decoder back to 'factory' settings and the address of the loco will become 3.

(Deep breath). Looking at the top track (A-B), if point A is set straight, the top rail is negative (black) and the bottom positive. Because you are using an electrofrog point both rails are positive below that point. You should be able to check this with a meter between the negative rail at the top and any piece of rail below. The track beyond point B has its positive feed via the crossover because you have an insulator before the point (I think, your diagram is not clear). When you switch point A, the top rail remains negative but the bottom rail becomes negative as well, up to point B where you have an isolator. The bottom rail beyond the point becomes positive if the point above A is thrown to the curved route. The general rule with electrofrogs is put the feed into the 'toe' and put isolators after the frog. Put feeds into the sidings. This will ensure all tracks are live whatever the point setting. I would use a multimeter to learn what is happening as you change points.

I'm not sure I'm missing something here, since I don't understand why you have four outputs from your DCC controller. Is one for the programming track and one for operation? If so I would use a DPDT switch to change between program and operation outputs from the DCC controller and then I would use two DPDT centre off switches. the switch (centre) terminals of one connected to the OO line and the other connected to the OO9. One set of the 'outer' terminals of each switch to go to the DC controller and the other set to go to the DCC controller program/operation switch. One very rough diagram attached

MERG (www.merg,org,uk) sell a decoder tester (PMP14) for an 8 pin decoder but you have to join MERG and make up the kit.

I use a SPROGII with DecoderPro to operate a small OO layout and operate PECO solenoids. I find it very good. It's not always easy to find information on the JMRI website but the forum is very helpful. I've written up my experiences using a Sprog with JMRI and a MERG pulse decoder (attached). Hope it's of some use How to operate solenoids with JRMI.pdf

I'm not too sure the problem is limited to DCC. I've bought a few items on ebay where the description was 'generous'. I've had to re-wheel several trucks for example. The problem with buying 'pre-owned' is that you can never be certain of the life the product has led or the expertise of the seller. I bought 'Annie and Clarabel' coaches with a 'Thomas' on ebay from a charity and the coaches are fine but the loco had stripped gears, which I've replaced. The charity offered a refund which I didn't accept as the coaches were good value by themselves, and I was dealing with a charity. I also find that some of the 'pre-owned' prices on ebay are not far off the new price and that some 'buy now' new items are priced way above the price from established retailers.

My neighbour wanted a simple system and has an NCE Power Cab which he likes. I find it a chore having to consult a paper list to find the address of the locos I want to use. As mentioned above, it's worthwhile visiting a specialist retailer who can demonstrate a range of systems. Your father-in-law should also look at the manuals to see which he prefers.

Iain, there's no problem with JRMI, except for some newbies like me, who may have difficulty in working out how to use it. So I thought a few notes might be useful.

The attached pdf may be of interest to newcomers. It uses a MERG kit connected to a SPROG operated by JMRI software running on a computer. This allows turnouts operated by solenoids to be activated on a smartphone linked to the computer using the 'Engine Driver' app. Although I've used a MERG pulse decoder to operate the solenoids and SPROG as the DCC controller, other manufacturers units could be used. Any comments appreciated. David How to operate solenoids with JRMI.pdf

Are you on a guest network? The TP Link router has a setting which prevents guests 'seeing' each other. Looking at a manual on the web, chapter 6 covers the guest network.

Unless you have locomotives with sound, self-isolating points are not necessarily a bad idea for sidings. I use them on my DCC layout and it stops locos running into incorrectly set points. My experience with Peco OO setrack is that it only requires one feed plus point clips but it is better to feed power to each oval. Track cleanliness is much more important than many track feeds. I have found that insulated frogs do not cause problems for locos with sprung wheels but do cause stalling for cheaper locos (e.g. Hornby Thomas) which have no springing.

I'm also interested in this question since I have a SprogII and am intending to fit a large Stay Alive from DCC Concepts (ZNSSA). They don't quote a capacity.

The instructions for the Hornby 'Thomas' state that the motor should be replaced by a dealer after 100 hours of use. Shame that dealers don't seem to be able to get these motors. The gears are also plastic with a limited life. Inbuilt obsolescence indeed.

I'm trying to buy a motor at present. Unfortunately Peter's Spares (who are very good) are out of stock and the item has been on order for some time.

Does the motor work when it is out?

I bought an old Thomas on e-bay and it turned out to have a stripped gear wheel. Obviously this shouldn't have happened to a new Thomas but I wonder whether one of the gear wheels slowly moved out of place and jammed?

If you are happy about handling computer code and concerned about cost, don't forget to consider the SPROG with JMRI software, especially if you have a spare laptop. This will also link to a smartphone using 'Engine Driver' software. I'm afraid I've no experience on using JMRI to control points. You mention 'Stay Alive' decoders. My experience with OO suggests they are unnecessary if your locos have sprung axles. 'Stay Alive' capacitors which will carry the loco over dead spots, such as insulated frogs, tend to be big. It's worthwhile checking out the DCC Concepts decoders, which have wires that can be connected to a separate 'stay alive' module. They claim their Zen Black decoders shouldn't need stay alive.

The DCC Concepts manual for their Zen Black decoder (https://www.dccconcepts.com/manual/zen-black-decoder-manual-part-1-cvs-and-setup-only-v12/0) gives a table on page 8 for the CV settings they use for various types of train. It's quite a good illustration as to which CV settings can be used, and how. However, decoders and locomotives will be different and in order to get similar characteristics across all your locos you will have to experiment. I would set CV2 to zero CVs 3 and 4 to zero, since DC control is instantaneous (but see 'Harlequin's note above on overrides). I would set CV5 to 255 (max) and CV6 (mid speed) to half CV6 and then change them to see the effects. Check the Zimo manual first for any recommendations it makes.

Or maybe you're just being sarcastic?

What about fitting decoders to existing locos you might own? What about changing the default address from 3? What about the cost? I'm a fan of DCC but I have to help my neighbour who was sold DCC by the retailer when he started with a layout. Without my help he would struggle. DCC has advantages, but it's more than 'stick two wires to the track'.

If you haven't come across them, you may find the 'Railway Modeller - Shows you how' booklets useful https://peco-uk.com/products/wiring-the-layout-part-2-for-the-more-advanced?_pos=1&_sid=f8fe57fe8&_ss=r

If you are the sole operator, operating one loco at a time, you will only need one DCC controller, since you will switch between locos using their addresses on the single controller. You should only need one DC controller if you connect this to the main line and goods yard through on/off switches connected to each line . You can then switch off the line you aren't using. In practice it's better to have more sections to give greater flexibility over the movement of trains. Ideally you want a section wherever you need to isolate a loco. Isolation should be achieved by using insulated fish-plates. Each section should be connected to the DC controller though a double-pole single throw switch, that is an on-off switch for positive and negative leads.

Halsey, if you have got rid of your old DC controller I wouldn't worry. Although manufacturers suggest you run a new loco for about half an hour on DC, my neighbour has bought plenty of new locos, never run them on DC and never had a problem.

Yes it should. Like I said, it's a long shot... Good luck.