MacDuff999

Unfortunately, modelling time has been a bit hard to come by this autumn, but some progress has been made - mainly on tenders. The Ivatt 'Coronation' tender for 'Sir William' etc. just needs the chassis to complete it now, and I am about three quarters the way to completing a Comet de-streamlined version for 46224 'Princess Alexandra' - of which I have attached a photo connected to the Wrenn loco which will assume that identity. I have replaced the original drawbar by another made from a 6mm strip of N/S, suitably measured and drilled to give a closer coupling. Very conveniently, it extends horizontally from the tender drawbar pivot point to that under the loco smokebox, passing through the original drawbar slot under the loco cab and the tender drawbar slot! Although the L/H side of the tender looks largely complete, I have yet to fit the tender front/coal plate, and th R/H tender side, as well as detailed fittings such as springs/axle boxes, turned buffers, coupling etc. The tender will be well coaled, thus allowing me to model the simpler version of the inner tender structure.

One of the prototypes recently re-introduced by the new Nu-Cast/Branchlines partnership, is the ex-Caledonian Pickersgill class 72 4-4-0 locomotive. Developed from McIntosh's well-known Dunalastair series locos, they were a good-looking loco, and the Caledonian's last express passenger class. The design and assembly is quite similar to that used in many of the DJH locomotive kits in 4mm scale, with white metal suprestructure for loco and tender, and etched mainframes, spacers, and coupling rods. Instructions are included, and the guidance notes contained are clear, and supplemented with exploded sketch diagrams to help identify individual parts, and clarify the assembly process as necessary. Motor/gearbox is of course the modeller's choice, and suitable wheels can be obtained from Ultrascale, Markits or Gibson. My first step was to separate, tidy up and temporarily assemble the mainframes on the screw-in spacers provided, after opening out the axle holes to take the usual bearings for rigid running. Nothing was soldered at this stage. I also fitted a set of driving wheels (borrowed from an N2 kit!), to check the accuracy of the assembly and its smooth running. Having pre-read the instructions, one can identify where some modellers might wish to slightly amend the sequence of assembly, and opportunities for improvement of the kit by substitution of (say) turned parts in place of the kit's cast ones.

Found the screw-in spacer holes Mike, and here is a photo. Earliest stages of course with the mainframes, having filed off the nibs left after removal from the etch, and now temporarily joined with two Markits screw-in spacers and a couple of Comet axle jigs. Two of the matching coupling rod laminations are set up behind the frames, on the rod pins of the Chassis Squared. I am going to try some of the spacers from a Comet N/S chassis kit for a J39 for size and shape in the relevant strategic positions. That is the next step, but this will be a slow and I hope measured process.

Thanks Mike. Will identify those, so I can proceed when I make a start. Ian.

OK, nearly 18 months since your last post Ian! How can I contact you on e-mail? I am contemplating - at last - making a start on the BZ kit I bought from you in May, 2019, and have a question. Look forward to hearing from you. Ian Ogden.

I am at last contemplating making a start on the 'Princess' etch Mike, and am inclined to use your screwed-in spacer approach to begin assembling the mainframes. Looking at your first photo, when you set out in this thread the way you assembled key sections of the loco, I can't see where you used the screw-in spacers on the frames. Or had you already removed them when you took the shot? OK, it was 2013! It would be really quite helpful to know where you located them. Thanks. Ian.

Don't know when you might see this message Ian, bearing in mind the time lapse; I still have not started the Thompson BZ kit I had from you a fair while back, what with COVID and other 'life' restrictions. I could well be interested in a kit for the cream van variant of this kit too, if you would let me know how I might proceed with that. Ian.

Thanks Iain/Jol. I will press on! What do you use for coal Iain - the real thing by any chance?

Am in process of building a Comet de-streamlined tender. As it is mainly brass, I am concerned it might give a hollow, tinny sound when drawn by the loco. Anyone suggest how to avoid that, apart from perhaps just weighting?

Interesting point you make about the drawbar DCB. I obtained some 5 and 6mm N/S strip to fashion new ones, possibly for my Wrenn 'Coronations', and my H/D bodied 'Duchess' on a Comet chassis. Haven't got round to changing any of them yet, partly as the H/D 'Duchess' will draw a slightly modified Wrenn tender, and the latter locos will need de-streamlined Comet tenders.

Just to pick up on your comments re motor size/power and DJH loco weight Iain, I can't remember if I mentioned it in a previous post, but I have decided to ditch the white metal tender chassis of 46256. I have acquired a Comet tender chassis kit for the correct tender type, and on examination, it should not be too difficult to attach it to the tender superstructure. It may need a little fettling. That will reduce the overall loco weight a little.

Thanks Mike/Iain. I have acquired both a 1620 and 1624 for the 'Coronations'. They will not be required to perform significant haulage feats or travel at higher speeds, so any difference in performance should not be too noticeable. I can go ahead and attach the DJH cylinders now!

I am building a medium sized goods sidings layout - c.20ft. long, with 6 roads and about 10 turnouts. Electrics is not an area I am knowledgeable about, apart from basic principles of simple track wiring. I don't have the expertise to make a bespoke control panel, and am considering the possibility of a multi-section case controller, as I think the layout will comprise no more than 5 power sections, and this may be a simpler solution to layout power supply. Any advice or suggestions RM Webbers?

Am getting dangerously close to the layout wiring stage, and my knowledge of such things is pretty basic. A modelling colleague has said there are some useful items on the 'net to assist the electrical novice. Any ideas what and where gents?

On the subject of gearbox/motors, I am now approaching that stage of construction of my DJH Ivatt 'Coronation'. On the previous advice of Mike, Iain and others, I am thinking of using one of the few remaining Mashima 1620's in stock at Branchlines. Am I right in thinking there would be relatively little difference in performance between a 1620 and a 1624? On a slightly different tack, an issue from slightly earlier in the build stage, you are supposed to attach small rectangular spacer plates to cylinder-fixing apertures in the mainframes, before attaching the main cast cylinder bodies onto them. How critical is it to clearances that this step is followed? I tried to attach one with S/glue. as it is potentially slightly tricky to use a soldered joint, but it came adrift. If these plates are really essential, then solder it will have to be. Advice please.

No further work on tenders at the moment, as I have been progressing the Comet chassis for the H/D 'Duchess' up-grade. I took forum members' advice, and purchased a pair of Markits machined crosshead/piston rod parts; they are certainly more superior to those provided in the Comet chassis kit, and the cylinder liner sleeves which come with them, make for silky smooth operation when tried out prior to full assembly, which is the next job.

Been working on the DJH tender lately, and thought I would finish it soon. Foolish boy! Last stage (almost) was addition of steps - etched at front and W/M at rear. I had problems in attempting to attach these, and was really quite unimpressed with the design of the main chassis block and the cast frame/axle-box/springs, which provided little in the way of support for the steps to help with the soldering process. I ended up binning the idea of completing the tender as intended, and have sent for the appropriate Comet chassis kit. With its all-brass parts and a rather better design, it should go together more easily, and once assembled, provide a suitable base for the DJH tender body - which went together fine. I now also have the N/S strip with which to fashion a better buffer beam for the Wrenn 'Duchess' tender. Will post a photo or two when there is something worthwhile to see.

I have a couple of nameplates already for the locos I am working on. What I should really do, of course, is measure the things and compare with the support plate on the loco boilers! The LMS profile book drawings seem to give measurements, but are slightly confusing; I still think it depends on the length of the loco's name. Ian.

More progress on the DJH tender, but also some work done on the green one off 'City of Birmingham'. The ugly lugs below the rear buffer beam (ex-tension lock coupling) and the cast buffers have been removed, and it looks better already. Some N/S strip from a certain emporium will form a rather improved buffer beam, fitted with turned buffers and a screw coupling. 'Princess Royal' driving wheels, to give a little more clearance I hope, are in the post, and on delivery will be fitted to the Comet chassis temporarily placed under the H/D 'Duchess' body. Anyone know how long 'Coronation' nameplates were? Or does it depend on the length of the name? I am just wondering if I will need to try and file down (or extend) part of the nameplate 'hump' on the cast body. Ian.

I might contact Chris at High Level Mike, to see what he suggests. This is a new area for me now, selecting and fitting motor/gearboxes, so a little guidance is required. Which axle do your 'Coronations' drive on by the way, rear or centre? I seem to recall Tony Wright, for example, suggests driving on the centre axle. I suppose it may depend, to a degree, on whether you are particular about having a fitted cab in your locos. Ian.

Not the best move to attach the W/M 'window frame' before fixing the back in situ! I did manage it eventually, but it was a bother to get things square and flush, without melting the W/M. Abandoned things for a more relaxing cup of tea, after getting a reasonable fit. Attaching the second side can wait until tomorrow now. Then the fun starts - trying to get the heavy top between the sides! Instructions say you have to prise them gently apart to do it?? Ian.

Any suggestions then Mike, as to a suitable motor, based on your experience with these locos on Carlisle? I did exactly as you did Iain, and attached the 'window frame' to the tender back with low-melt. It looks as though it will support the rear of the tender top OK. Ian.

Well, Sod's Law strikes again! Although the thought had occurred to me Terry; I just hadn't checked it with the LMS Profiles book. I will see how successful (or otherwise) I am in excising the unwanted protrusions behind and below the buffer beam, so that I might be able to attach a better brass strip buffer beam, drilled etc. for turned buffers and scale screw coupling. If that goes pear-shaped, it's a Comet replacement I think. Meanwhile, I now have a half-built tender body for the DJH Ivatt 'Sir William' etc. Slow, but still progress. Ian.

Thanks Mike/Iain. It is white metal casting, which looks as though it could be a 'landscape' format window frame with a central vertical strut, and sizeable apertures either side of it. I will try a dry run with it held close to the tender back, and see how well it supports the heavy top. Re the tender weight Iain, the loco will not be drawing trains of any great length, nor will it - on my relatively small layout - be required to travel a significant distance at high speed, so I can opt for a slightly smaller motor perhaps, than might normally be the preferred choice in other circumstances. Ian.