Departmental203

As said previously, here are a few (terrible) images of my about to be BSK 35469... My method of attaching the Bachmann Commonwealth bogies, using cheap M5 bolts and nuts (B&Q) Previously, I have done some work to the bogies by trying to add NEM pockets (the couplings project out by like 5 scale feet too far!! ) Will be revisiting that then! Cut a slot on the face of the bolt to take a flat headed screwdriver The bolt has been cut just to clear the interior, not too noticeable when the body is on And, since this is a brake vehicle, the battery boxes need to be facing each other. I have moved it...but took off some of the detail while drilling it out! (Better reach for Microstrip...) And, sitting on one of the fiddle yard roads Hope you can see the photos well enough!!! Jules

Speaking about the Scottish Modellers group, I know Rodders and I'm pretty sure I have spoken to you at Perth this June, you were making 2mm finescale track if I'm not mistaken. I will probably ask you about this because I am planning to make a 3 way-point and double slip, albeit in OO gauge, Code 100!! See you there, Jules

I know it's been a while since I've last posted, over October, my attention has switched to the layout. However, with the darker months settling in, I decided to revive a project on the back burner : MK1 BSK 35469 (an ETS generator coach I believe) Click here to get photos form Google of this coach (it's the one with the grilles on the former luggage compartment). The coach, BTW, is a Hornby Railroad one that I got for £17 (It's actually worth it in my opinion!) So far I've only attached replacement Bachmann Commonwealth bogies. Pictures to follow. Jules

Hello guys, couldn't get an update for a wee while because: busy! Over the weekend, I dipped my toe into the water by doing my first "proper" soldering job - soldering copper clad sleepers. For the furthest away line, I cut the track first then soldered and due to the curve, it took 3 attempts to get the rails aligned. And managed to melt a few sleepers! (Good thing it was the fiddle yard...) And another shot for my first attempt, from a birds eye... For the other line, I slid off the sleepers, soldered the copper-clad in situ and cut the rails using a razor saw. Much better (for curves!) And don't forget to insulate the tracks!! (by breaking the copper surface) I am thinking of going to the Falkirk model rail show this weekend(I wish I could go to Warley!! ) Jules

Fitted after the Polmont derailment of 1984 because of a cow after all. Should have known... :fool: Jules

I have also read the Mk3 detailing on a DEMU UPdate (even though I'm no member!) Good luck with the DBSO, if you're modelling post-1984, the snowplough needs to be fitted. Anyway, excellent work Jules

Cheers for the comment Joe, hope your second layout goes well! I was thinking I should scratchbuild the 3-way point in the middle to save space after seeing one on Jack's little Tighte End and I feel confident to solder one up!! The problem is I am using Code 100 track so the likes of C and L and DCC Concepts only sell Code 75!!! And I am not sure if Peco's Indivudalay Code 100's track will be stiff enough to make the switch blades (I think it's better to ask in the Handbuilt Track section!!) Jules

Hi all, I think I have got the ideal pan (a more detailed plan may follow, hope you get the idea!!!) in my space!! Sorry, my phone (with a crap camera) is the only source of photographs!!! Some people may think this track plan is FAR too cramped for the space available, but I had engineering stock before the plan was decided and like the idea of complex shunting sessions (NOT SIDINGS!!! :edit :nono:and I like complex things for some reason!) Jules

Another day of thinking about the trackpan....again!! (Why can't I decide???? ) I realised if I wanted two ballast loading sidings, space would be extremely tight and I might have to handbuild a 3-way turnout only 20 or so cm long!!! I think I could make a handbuild point but a short 3-way point as your first handbuilt point is going to the VERY deep end!! So, on the top, was a tweaked version of the second plan I showed you. The bottom plan actually harks back to the first plan, but no allowance for oil trains to run!! So I looked at Andy's Kingsmill plan to see how he fit a small oil point. My plan was to fit a Fort William style oil port with two roads, each holding about 3 wagons. He used a kickback siding (is that what they are called???) so my plan is to squeeze one so it goes into the control panel area. This photo will explain better than me, I am bad at explaining! Jules

I guess your budget is as tight as mine......!!! Jules

Just came across this forum the now, this work is top quality!! I especially love your 319 in the best livery ever apllied to them (in my humble opinion). Also a big fan of the "mark 3" EMU's built by BREL, your 319, 321,456 etc... Will be following this forum with interest Jules

Hey, Callander This might help your problem. Replica produce 3 different types of powered chassis, you probabaly bought a 57ft chassis I think. The best buy is to buy a Replica 64ft chassis with 12mm diameter wheels (I think), I have read that someone used a Replica 64ft chassis to fit in a Brachell Models Class 321's MSO (pantograph motor car) and it is in RmWeb. Hope this helps, Jules

Hey, Wayne, some food for thought here: In the most recent Rail Express No 270, Dave Roome descibes how he modifided a Sutton Locomotive Works 24/0 to a 25/0 using resin castings using the Hornby Class 25. I'ts quite interesting and worth a read. Jules

Another update in a while!! Taking advantage of the holidays to review my plan....which turned into an epic fail!!! I could not have the space to fit sidings and a run round loop (for a Class 66) in a 5'x1' space!!! :fool: After a brainstorm, I came up with this: However, this meant the maximum length of train was 2x ZBA + 2x ZCA (Sea Urchin) but I least I have a plan that works !!! And, this morning: And it turned into a real mess in the afternoon!!! Any comments about the plan. I'd apreccate opinions (I personaly doubt this is anywhere near prototypical!!) More soon

Thanks for the photos, Will, but I don't think I'll be too comfortable (at first) ripping out all the mechanisms even though I took off the fan assembly to try to get the fan belt out in one peice!! I would (eventually) take the plunge when I gain some bravado!! Cheers again Jules

I think the cause is that the lubricant has dried up. I'll open up the Grid tomorrow and look again. I think photos will help. Cheers Jules

I have a Hornby Class 56 56059. I didn't run it for a while and when I ran it, the gears made a grinding noise. I never knew the small cover can be opened to expose the gear but how did you do it with the Romanian Grid? Surprised me that all you have to sometimes do to get a non-runner working is an inspection of the moving parts or wires, I always thought that spares had to be bought for this. Thanks for the info and keep up with the work. Jules

Hey teacup The bodyshells of these Lima locos actually look very good in my opinion despite being nearly 30 years old but thing I hate don't like about them is...the motors. Wonder how these things will turn out in their liveries. I seriously recomend you to go to Shawplan's website, these locos will be ripe for their parts wether it would be fan grilles, nameplates, glazing etc. Never bought anyhing from them (yet) but seeing so many modellers use their parts with great sucess, I think that's good enough!! Jules

Hey teacup Looks interesting, I am a fan of BR's long wheelbase, 2 axle air brake opens since buying a Cambrian OBA about 2 years ago just completed it months ago. I love the Cambrian wagons and in my humble opinion, still look better than the Bachmann ones. A very good place for wagon buffers is Lanakshire Models and Supplies website (click here) I'm not sure which exact ones to buy (I know theyr'e OLEO buffers) but a search through the Kitbuilding and Scratchbuilding forum might yeild some result. Jules My Wagon Workbench

Hi Wayne, I think the Class 25 project will yeild a interesting model and one that could potentially square up to Bachmann's newly announced 24/1 model. I'm planning to do the same thing with a Hornby Class 156 provided I have the confidence, pieces of plastic, saw, wire and lots of time!! My workbench is currently dead quiet, with the finished body of a scrachbuilt MHA. Good luck with this one, Jules

Just read your workbench, looking very good! BTW I think the 314 kit is an AJAY models kit, however they come at a price and are very hard to get now! I guess almolst 40 years of work arond Glasgow have taken their toll, but roll in the Class 385's Jules

It's been a while since I posted, due to my Japanese holiday and school!! Luckily I have a decent chunk of spare time before exams!! I restarted my MHA project after a trip to Milerhill Yard and inspiration from Jack's MXA project! Pics: Been pushing to get 112144 (Dutch liveried OCA, Cambrian) off the workbench by adding transfers to the other side. I still need the small data panel wagons carry about their wheels etc. Probabaly will make them myself!! A very bad photo of Millerhill yard from the waste plant!! Not easy to photograph, especially with a bad camera!!! Cheers guys and enjoy your modelling! Jules

Just been reading your workbench, Andy, it's looking great!! I like the weathering of the IOA using an awl to scrape the bodysibes and a wash of rust, I should try this on my engineering wagons!! Keep up the good modelling will be looking out for more! Jules

Pretty sure that the 320's will get a second refurbrishment that will mainly focus on the interiors that will get them equal with the 318's. I love those BREL built EMU's for some reason. Loving those MK2s BTW! Jules

Very nice work (as usual) Jack, I especially like your "halo" light modification with the "Cat" and good luck with Rolls-Royce (like everyone has been saying!!!) The MXA's look the part, guess I can now resume the MHA project! Jules