Marmight

Thanks for the info. I’ve removed the coupler boxes as I’ve read somewhere else that they have to be removed. It appears the fuel tanks are part of the chassis and I cant see any fixing screws anywhere…the whole body and running plates seem to be part of the body and the chassis unit would seem to unclip from that…but I can’t see any tabs. The fuel tank part of the body will pull down enough to get a priser in between the chassis and body, but I don’t really want to force it

Can anyone please tell me how I get the body off a Red Caboose O gauge GP9? I don’t think this one is kit built, it looks like a rtr version. I need to fit DCC sound to it. Cheers Martin

That’s very interesting Russ. Just goes to show there really is a prototype for everything. Cheers Martin

Brilliant once again. Thanks Dave.

Hmm, Smug mode <on> maybe it’s a good job I’m talking about American Signals then! Smug mode <off>

Dave, thank you! Brilliant explanation of how they work. What would normally be written on the plate? Cheers Martin

Thanks Dave. Just curious as to why there are three aspects to the signal. My UK mindset would have though it would have been red = stop, amber= caution and green = proceed. Mind you, the American signal code seems to change for every road that operates. Must be a nightmare for engineers. cheers Martin

I always thought that North American semaphore signals were placed on the opposite side of the track to UK signals and that they faced the same way. In other words the coloured side faced oncoming traffic and the white side with black line faced the rear of the signal. I’ve seen a few pics recently where the coloured side seems to be opposite to oncoming trains, ie, the white side is facing the train. Does this mean that this set up is for either way traffic on the same track? I’ve got a lovely semaphore that I want to put on the layout, but I want it to be correct. Any help would be grateful. Cheers, Martin

I watch the Palmer web cam quite often. It’s a fascinating set up and you’re never quite sure what is going to turn up. Thanks for the reply.

Exactly. So, Dave, would a large rounded covered hopper be suitable for inward bound grain? Something like this?

...and it’s the flavour that we try to model. I have quite a few smaller covered hoppers that I now know would not fit in with the Flour theme, so I am grateful for the information. I’m trying to get it right, being 4000 miles away doesn’t make it very easy though...

The British layout was a cement works, the American one is Flour. Same color, different consistency I think...I do appreciate the comments though as being in the UK, these things are not generally known.

Ah yes, DCC and sound. Well I wouldn’t be without it...the RS engines sound very like the old Leyland buses I used to drive for Ribble Motor Services in Liverpool where I grew up. Currently, there is are two RS engines and a GP 38-2 waiting to be fitted with decoders. The sounds US engines make was a major factor in my converting to US outline. Once I’d stumbled on Virtual Railfan and Jaw Tooth videos on YouTube, I was hooked. The sheer power, size and sounds they make, not to mention the horns are too fantastic to describe. Add in the incredible value for money that rollingstock costs and I couldn’t go back to UK outline again. TBH, I loved the old Tri-ang Transcontinental series of trains, but my parents had to buy me British outline...none of that foreign muck here!!!. I’ve never forgotten them and I still like seeing them come up for sale on eBay, but I don’t buy, no I have the next best thing to reality with O scale DCC sound. I will start a description and history of the layout soon. That’s a great video link btw, thanks for posting. Cheers Martin

Great information, thank you.

Brilliant, thanks a lot. I now have some distance figures to work with. Cheers Martin

Great, so I just start a topic or thread and post away? I’m not that well up on forum etiquette. it will be an interesting tale. Until Jan 2021, it was a British industrial line catering around a cement works...changed a little bit since...I will start one off very soon, classic car business taking precedence at the moment. The pics are a sort of before and after. Even I’m amazed at how far the layout has progressed in such a short time.

Yes, I’m rather partial to Alco RS’s, there are several RS 1’s and 3’s still in service. 1951 is currently just a shell, awaiting a new motor to be fitted.

Thanks for the info, really helpful. Would I be right in saying that inIndustrial areas, there would be a hydrant outside each of the premises or buildings? For all the times I’ve spent in Canada and the USA, I wish I’d paid more attention to street furniture...

Erm, please excuse my ignorance, but what is a layout thread?

I hope this is the right forum for this, if it isn’t, my apologies. Being a UK resident, modelling North American O gauge, I’d like to add some fire hydrants to my layout. The railway is mostly industrial with a small harbor section and a Flour plant. Can anyone point me in the right direction as to where hydrants would be placed and what color are they painted? Are they all Red? If it helps, the layout is situated in the NE region, somewhere along the Canadian border around Burlington, Syracuse and Buffalo. Did the colours differ from region to region? Cheers Martin

...placed straight into service this afternoon...

I think I’ve achieved the look I was after, slightly weathered and a bit work worn. Obviously the tin of Dodge Armour Yellow is a different shade to what UP used. Overall, I’m quite satisfied with the result.

Great diversion guys, really like that switcher... Anyway, this is the kind of look I’m after...

It’s a well aged standard Atlas paint job, as it came from the box. All I’ve done is paint out the UP Roadname and replaced it with one of my experimental home made decals. I think it looks good. I’m waiting on a delivery of decal paper and I will attempt the other UP locos I have.

I’ve experimented here with an Atlas F9, still in UP livery. I’ve now got a similar shade to armour yellow and will try that on GP15-1 I have.