Marmight

I’m not sure what engine it was, it wasn’t 2555 but I thought that’s a neat job...perhaps you are right about my thoughts on resales, not that I’m thinking of selling any of my fleet...but you never know. Many thanks for all your thoughts, living in the UK, it can involve a bit of guesswork trying to make things look right.

I would normally think of a shade of grey (gray) to cover the roadname...keep forgetting to write American English...but I saw a recent webcam at Palmer, Mass., where an ex UP engine passed with the UP roadname painted over in a similar shade of yellow and the legend New England Central written in its place. I suspect this was a short term plan as the engine would probably be repainted eventually in G&E corporate livery. As it is, a close representation is what I’m looking for and I think I’ve found it. When I’ve made the decals, I will post a pic of the engine I’m changing. Thanks for the replies. Cheers Martin

Slight correction, it’s more like 255.190.0 Cheers Martin

Thanks Dave, great answer and I think in true Shortline tradition...something very close would do...at least I now know the names of the colour, sorry color... Just found out the RGB code. FC9B33. 252. 151. 51. which is not far out from what I thought it might be. Just a little tweaking to do now. Cheers Martin

Can anyone please tell me the correct yellow shade that UP uses for its yellow colour, either as a Pantone or RGB format so I can match it. I'm experimenting with home produced decals and I want to patch over the UP road names before adding my own...in true short line fashion. I don’t want to paint the names out as the decals will be easier to remove should anyone in the future want to return the loco to a UP one. Thanks Martin

Hi John, Ive just managed to bear the heat in the loft to adjust this decoder. Took your advice on having a decent length of track...it certainly flies off... Anyway, changing the value of cv54 to 0 certainly works and the engine now stops without Jerking. It’s take off speed is greatly reduced as well, which suits me down to the ground. Many thanks for your input. Cheers Martin

Many thanks for the reply. I’ve had a look and I’ll work the CV values out to see if a cure is there. I have to say that I find Zimo decoders a lot better than ESU, but they simply don’t have the range of US sounds the ESU have. cheers Martin

Hi all, I have an O Gauge Weaver US loco that has had a Sagami 2240 Round Can Motor fitted and non sound Zimo DCC 8 pin decoder fitted. It runs perfectly, but... I want to fit a sound decoder to it. Now, I’ve fitted plenty before so the wiring is no problem. This engine has had a 8 pin socket fitted by the previous owner. So, I’ve fitted an ESU Loksound V5 decoder...ESU make superb sound files for US engines. The sound is great and it starts and runs extremely well, but, when it stops, it jerks a couple of times before finally halting. I remember reading some time ago that there was a CV value that could be altered to stop this happening, but I can’t find it anymore and, typically I didn’t write it down. Can anyone help please? cheers Martin

If the worm wheel gear is still on offer Jason, I’ll take it off your hands? cheers Martin

This is the one they recommended Jason... https://nwsl.com/products/geared-wheelset-o-40-145-1-8-x-1-810-shouldered-axle-weaver-rs3-fa-gp38-upgrade-geared-wheelsets-4 Cheers Martin

Despite trying numerous different gearsets, none of which worked to any great effect, I’ve bitten the bullet and ordered a set from NWSL. Cheers Martin

Dismantled the bogies and both rear axles have split gears. If that’s the case, I know the front two are ok, but for how long? Maybe as a precaution I need to replace all four? Cheers Martin

Thanks guys, really appreciate your help. Cheers Martin PS, took the bogie off this morning, really surprised at how easy it is to take apart. Not removed the gearbox casings yet, that will be later after SWAMBO’s chores are done.

Ok, thanks Pete. I’ll dismantle the bogie over the weekend and see what is what. Cheers Martin

I suspect it’s the split axle gear. I’ve uncoupled the lower shaft so the bogie is not connected to the drive and turned the bogie end shaft. By marking the wheel and turning the shaft, it catches in one spot only. I will have to dismantle the bogie to find out. When you say Jason, is that Jason D, or another Jason? Cheers Martin

The Weaver RS3 remotoring saga continues. The motor is now fitted, new universal join fitted, the motor shaft is 4mm diameter and investment found some RC car and truck supplier who supply updated joints. A bit of judicious bending took place... This now runs great, except the rear bogie, not the motor end, has a problem where it binds and makes the locomotive jerk... Has anyone got a rear unpowered RS3 bogie for sale?

It had to happen, the motor was shorting under load, so I had no real choice. It’s done now and replacement cardan shafts have been ordered. Cheers Martin

Update..... I managed a couple of hours in the workshop this afternoon, applied the running numbers to the second F9 the line has and then the thoughts turned to the errant RS3! I’ve bought a fairly heavy duty gear puller from the bay, with narrow grips to get behind the flywheel. I had to place the puller in a bench vice as the force required to move the flywheel was something my hands could cope with...I’m not getting any younger and the hands cannot grip like they used to. So turning the screw and ...ping...that’s the end of the cardan shaft broken into several pieces. In the end, I had to tighten the vice really tight and use a long screwdriver as a lever to get the flywheel off. There was so much pressure involved that the legs of the puller had to be levered apart with a tyre lever. That might have been some overkill, but it was the only way I could think off to separate them. Tomorrow, order a new cardan shaft... Fortunately I had a scrap 4 wheel chassis spare, which happened to have a very good Canon FN30 motor!

I’ve just had a little poke around and the rear shaft has come away leaving the yolk attached to the flywheel end. So I’ll remove the yolk, that’s the little piece that’s shaped like a cross and leave the end joint close to the flywheel. I can’t find my puller, no idea when it last got used, so I’ll have to get one from eBay... Cheers Martin

Thanks for the info. I thought I’d need a gear puller...now where did I put mine?. Does the cardan shaft and UJ need to be removed first? If so, how easy is it, I’m worried about breaking it... Cheers Martin

I need to replace the single motor on my O gauge 2 Rail RS3. This is the Pitman single motor with chain drive type. What it the best way to remove the flywheel and universal joint from the motor and is it best to remove the motor from the chassis before doing the job? Cheers Martin

It’s probably been well documented, but the elderly Atlas F9 units don’t like Peco points and tend to ride up and over the check rails and frogs. Is this a back to back measurement problem or is it something else? Is there an easy or fairly easy way of fixing it? Cheers Martin

Brilliant explanation Dave, thank you very much.

A quick question...How far to the North East would a BNSF locomotive be seen? Do they ever get further east past Buffalo or into Vermont for example? I’ve seen their track maps, but other companies seem to get well beyond their home territories. Cheers Martin

Test fitting of the new the facility at Lake Shore Harbor. It’s a Heljan O gauge kit, not the easiest I’ve every built I can tell you. The rear section isn’t connected to the front part yet, hence the bowing of the sides. The low relief buildings have been temporarily removed for safety as I had to hack the old road bed out ready for the new trackwork to be laid. 1st pic is of the old British engine sheds, second pic is how it looks at this moment. Cheers Martin