Marmight

Wow...so much information, thank you very much. I’ll see if I can answer some of them. Firstly, my apologies for not using the correct terminology. What I should have said is that Atlas state there are plugs and wires supplied for the owner to fit to the mother board once the blanking plate is removed from it. the pictures show the 2 plugs as supplied and loose in the box by Atlas, they have not been removed from anything and are made by Atlas to convert the DC locomotive to DCC. After removing the blanking plate, two sockets, amongst other things become visible. One is a four pin socket, ideally for the 4 pin plug with Grey, Orange, Black and red wise attached, and the other, that has already been pointed out, a 9 pin JST socket, where the 9 pin 8 wired plug will fit. Now the 8 wires front this plug correspond to wiring that is DCC compliant and is for lighting and other functions regarding the same. The are what Atlas call DCC plugs for fitting to DCC sockets in the locomotive. i can see no reason whatsoever why the 4 pin plug would not cover the track and motor functions as the wires correspond to DCC wiring, yes I know there are two motors involved, but the is a complete minefield of spaghetti wiring inside the locomotive. I fully understand the problems with non NRMA compliance regarding wiring colours, similar to the DCC not friendly Heljan double motored wiring... From correspondence with other Atlas O gauge owners, I’m reliably informed that a decoder with a capability of up to 6 amps is required for this engine. I’ve plumped for a Zimo MX 699 Xl from yoochoos, who I have used for DCC supplies for a number of years without any problems. The proof is in the pudding as they say, so watch this space and I shall report back. Cheers Martin

Has anyone got a wiring diagram, or a how to video of fitting a sound decoder to this unit? It has two DCC sockets, one a 4 pin which has the pick up and motor wires...no problem with that, but the other is a 9 pin with 8 wires of various colours attached. This is is where I need the assistance...which wire goes where and as there are a few with the same colour, do they attach to the same place on the decoder?

Testing is now progressing at Yollock Harbour Creamery...

I’m hoping someone can point me in the right direction of sourcing a vacuum brake exhaust ejector that was fitted near the smokebox on all 0-6-0 4F tender engines. I’m converting a Lima model, and the part is fitted to the wrong side of the engine for the one I’m modelling.

You wouldn’t think that such a “mundane” topic, would spark such brilliant posts. I think knowledge of the ins and outs of this is reserved for a privileged few. Thanks to everyone who has posted.

A bit like my CWS tanker in the picture above...the weathering is not finished yet...

Great thread and replies. Thank you all. The creamery at Yollock Harbour is under construction now to house the two 6 wheel tankers that have arrived...along with some nasty weathering... The base of the concrete enclosed trackwork is currently being laid.

Thanks for the reply...that could be a bit nasty...

Hi Jason, Yes, I’ve read those notes, and they are a great help, but I’m sure I’ve seen a photo somewhere of one...prototype for everything maybe? The earlier Midland built engines were all RHD with the earlier tenders, so it’s going to be engine’s after those and excluding the S&D ones. Thanks for the reply. Cheers Martin

Hi guys, I know that this is a minefield of a subject, but I’m specifically interested in finding out the running numbers of left hand drive engines that were fitted at one time or another with the earlier Deeley/Fowler tenders similar to the earlier Midland built engines. So it’s engine commencing at 44027 and upwards. I’ve seen a pic of 44042 with this tender, but that is RHD. i believe there were others that were also fitted but were LHD. Any help on this will be grateful received. Cheers Martin

Brilliant, exactly the answer I was looking for, thanks.

Did six wheel milk tankers from one company ever end up at a creamery with other companies tankers? Or were they all the same livery depending on who owned the creamery? Cheers Martin

These are pics of my Brother’s engine. I think it looks a lot better than plain black

That’s what I thought. How can they make such a fundamental error? Hi Jason, Yes the Departmental ones had red buffer beams as did the LNER ones, but what did the BR ones have? black as in the model or red...

Hi Jason, Yes the Departmental ones had red buffer beams as did the LNER ones, but what did the BR ones have? black as in the model or red...

Just a quickie and I’m not sure if it hasn’t been answered before. The BR version has black buffer beams. Shouldn’t they be red? I know the departmental ones were red.. Cheers Martin

Hi guys, Ive just acquired an ready built 0 gauge Meteor Models DCC hard wired version of this engine and I’m wondering if anyone knows if a sound decoder is available for it. It looks a bit odd trundling around silently... Cheers Martin

Hi, Can anyone recommend a method of removing decals from an O gauge 08? I simply want to re-number it without damaging the paint. Cheers Martin

Hi A bit late I know, but I’m only just changing from narrow gauge to the proper one... I’ve converted a Lima shunter as well, replaced the motor with a proper can one...eBay 153106364497, which is very easy to do and makes a real difference to the running of the engine. I’ve fitted an ESU decoder with...wait for it...a Class 40 sound! Well, I’ll never have room for a model and it’s my favourite diesel sound so why not? Repainted in Regal Red from Hobbycraft (spray tin) and glazed. I haven’t fitted a cab, although I could always do it. I’m waiting for name and number plates from Narrow Planet to arrive and then it will be suitably weathered as befits a well used industrial engine. Costs, well around £30 for the engine, £18 for the new and very much improved motor, and around £100 for the decoder. You could always keep it DC as the motor will handle very slow speeds. Cheers Martin

Thanks guys for the replies. I’ve bought a set of 7122 wheels, which make a negligible difference to the buffer height. They are not exactly free running, so I might have to drill out the axle boxesa bit and fit in the brass bearings. I’ll let you know how I get on... Cheers Martin

Hi everyone, This is my first post on here and I’m hoping someone can help. I’ve very recently changed from 0n30/7mm narrow gauge to O gauge British outline industrial and while the old layout is being dismantled and the stock sold off, I’ve been slowly collecting stock for the new layout. In amongst this, I’ve been given some old Triang and Lima open mineral wagons and I’d like to change the wheels and axles so they travel easily through Peco points. Can someone please point me in the right direction as to replacement wheelsets? I’ve experimented with some Slater wheels, but I’m not sure on the right model number I should be using. Currently, the axle boxes need to be drilled out to accept the axle bearings, is there anyway of doing this without drilling them out? Cheers Martin