Gibbo675

H Folks, I'm still putting off doing anything with the Pullman Cars so I have busied myself with the 07-16 Tamper and Liner project. The tamping and lining gear was made this morning and the cabs, air intake and roof were built up this afternoon. The cab windows will be drilled and filled out once the glue has cured for then I shall be able to reduce the ligament dimensions of the window surrounds while it retains its shape due to forming a box type construction. The tamping and lining gear as a lot easier than I at first thought it might be it was more time consuming than anything else. The other problem was waiting for the glue to cure so that it didn't all collapse in slow motion should I try to do too much all at once, this particular problem was solved by doing things I should have been doing instead of toy trains such as the washing up and laundry although some cups of tea and a walk out were also had. Gibbo.

Oh Keith, Can you not see, it's un-hinged ! Gibbo.

Hi TS, You are not the only one ! Have a read of post 11, I was in a similar category yesterday; http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/140490-what-is-on-the-bench-was-previously-in-my-head/ Post 12 for paint traumas also. Gibbo.

Hi Paul, I'm coming to that conclusion but there are four of them to do all at once and it has taken ages to get the cream to cover, three coats on top of light grey, plus all that masking. Its a bite the bullet call. Cheers, Gibbo.

Hi There, I glued it "cold" so to say and didn't pour boiling water over it, that said the curve was a lot tighter than I required rather than a matching radius so it might be alright. I do hope I don't find out the hard way ! Thanks for the information all the same. Gibbo.

Hi Folks, As I am currently engaged in pondering a Pullman problem I have decided that a N Gauge tamping machine is in order. I have had the drawings in a September 1991 copy of Railway Modeller that has somehow escaped the bin for the last 27 years ! A point of note: while reading some of the old adverts I noted that the Dapol advert on page 28a had the Trix E3000 body shell in white plastic for £3.00. The last one I saw on eBay went for over ten times that, I let that one pass, although I do have a number of them in the to do box. I don't usually model in N gauge but a friend of mine has Nine Mills and Burshaw and I have so far built a Cowans Sheldon 75 ton crane and an APT-E as part of his exhibition stock, so I now think its time he had a tamping machine to look interesting in a siding. The drawings in the RM are of a Plasser and Theurer 07-16 and the artical was by a chap by the name of Peter Dibben. Peter managed to motorise his tamper but I won't be bothering, far too much trouble ! So far I have concentrated upon building up the main frame and cab floors, these parts are joined by the framing that both surrounds and passes through the tamping gear. The last job this evening was to attach the bogies that are actually some old Lima Freightliner flat bogies, these bogies may eventually get some sort of plating on the outside to replicate more accurately the type fitted to tamping machines. Pictured with a HO gauge Lilliput 07-32 Gibbo.

Hi Folks, The Pullman cars are not going well, I have had some paint pull off with the masking and also when trimming the masking back I have not lined up the tops of the cream panels with the tops of the windows and so they are slightly short on some coaches which will cause trouble with the lining. I am having a think about what to do, whether I should repair what is done so far or to strip the lot off and start again ? Is there anyone that would know best the solution to my problem ? Gibbo.

Hi Folks, After posting the latest photos of the Y6 last evening I had a terrible realisation that the body was too tall. I had a quick measure, and sure enough it was too tall by 2.5mm, which works out at a planks breadth. All I can think is that when I was marking out the sides I cut the cab doors to the line of the top edge of the sides hence the plank width of 2.5mm too tall and then replcated the error in the ends. I have now rectified my cock up by cutting out the second plank down from the top completely, the one on the body sides and end, not me, should you be wondering, and then glued it all back together again. The planking hides the joint perfectly !!! I have attached the roof along with the chimney and safety valve piping. The chimney is from Plastruct tube filled down to 4mm O/D and the safety valve pipe is a 12swg copper welding rod fitted into a 6mm Plastruct tube filled with epoxy resin. I used epoxy for it self levels as it adheres, thus less filling later. Just for sport here are two spot the difference photographs; Gibbo.

Hi Folks, After posting the latest photos of the Y6 last evening I had a terrible realisation that the body was too tall. I had a quick measure, and sure enough it was too tall by 2.5mm, which works out at a planks breadth. All I can think is that when I was marking out the sides I cut the cab doors to the line of the top edge of the sides hence the plank width of 2.5mm too tall and then replcated the error in the ends. I have now rectified my cock up by cutting out the second plank down from the top completely, the one on the body sides and end, not me, should you be wondering, and then glued it all back together again. The planking hides the joint perfectly !!! I have attached the roof along with the chimney and safety valve piping. The chimney is from Plastruct tube filled down to 4mm O/D and the safety valve pipe is a 12swg copper welding rod fitted into a 6mm Plastruct tube filled with epoxy resin. I used epoxy for it self levels as it adheres, thus less filling later. Just for sport here are two spot the difference photographs; Gibbo.

Hi Folks, This is the latest the Y6 project. Rectangular stiffening gussets have been fitted to the ends of the superstructure above the cab doors for there is only a 2mm ligament holding that part of the construction together. This feature also holds the whole square. I have applied all of the beadings and access door framing to the sides and the ends. I have to say this was a tricky job because if the lines of the beads are not quite correct they look terrible. The steps have also been made, this involved cutting four holes into the skirts under the doorways, and boxing in the behind with steps cut from .020" plasticard. To form the box for the steps I made two 1.5mm X 10mm strips from .030" plasticard fitted to the inside of either side of the holes in the skirts which was then bridged over with a 8mm X 10mm piece to form the backing plate. The steps which are .020" were then glued into position with .020" microstrip sides fitted to the outer edges of the skirts. The roof was formed from two pieces of .010" plasticard which were then glued together and held tightly around a glass jar that had a radius slightly less than I required. after about ten minutes I released the grip upon the laminated pieces and the roof held its form almost exactly to the arc of the ends of the superstructure of the locomotive. Roof and tarragon jar. General view so far. Gibbo.

Hi Folks, This is the latest the Y6 project. Rectangular stiffening gussets have been fitted to the ends of the superstructure above the cab doors for there is only a 2mm ligament holding that part of the construction together. This feature also holds the whole square. I have applied all of the beadings and access door framing to the sides and the ends. I have to say this was a tricky job because if the lines of the beads are not quite correct they look terrible. The steps have also been made, this involved cutting four holes into the skirts under the doorways, and boxing in the behind with steps cut from .020" plasticard. To form the box for the steps I made two 1.5mm X 10mm strips from .030" plasticard fitted to the inside of either side of the holes in the skirts which was then bridged over with a 8mm X 10mm piece to form the backing plate. The steps which are .020" were then glued into position with .020" microstrip sides fitted to the outer edges of the skirts. The roof was formed from two pieces of .010" plasticard which were then glued together and held tightly around a glass jar that had a radius slightly less than I required. after about ten minutes I released the grip upon the laminated pieces and the roof held its form almost exactly to the arc of the ends of the superstructure of the locomotive. Roof and tarragon jar. General view so far. Gibbo.

LNER Y6 Scratch Build I noted recently a post regarding a potential Pugbash in this very thread, linked below. http://www.rmweb.co....ysteins/page-22 I had almost forgotten that I had the drawings for this locomotive and so I finally thought about actually getting around to making one. I did a quick search for wheel bases and diameters and the nearest chassis is the Dapol/Hornby L&Y Pug. The Y6 is an inside cylinder design but removal of the cylinders and connecting rod shouldn't cause too much of a problem although they are not seen in any case. https://www.lner.info/locos/Y/y6.php https://www.lner.info/locos/J/j70.php I checked the drawing against the leading dimensions given in the above links and had a good look at both photographs and a pug that I have had for about thirty years now and then set about making the box structure for the skirts, and the body sides and ends. The body is made from .030" plasticard which has been scribed with a razor saw to represent planking, the framing will be represented with either micro strip if have any of suitable size or cut my own from .020" plasticard. My Pug of thirty years will not be chopped up for this exercise for I have ordered another from good old eBay that will be used to power my latest contraption. Gibbo.

LNER Y6 Scratch Build While waiting for yet more paint to dry and transfers to arrive in the post for various projects I decided that my bench needed more clutter ! I noted recently a post regarding a potential Pugbash in Corbs' thread, "Show us your Pugbashes, Nellieboshes, Desmondifications, Jintysteins", linked below. http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/120431-show-us-your-pugbashes-nellieboshes-desmondifications-jintysteins/page-22 I had almost forgotten that I had the drawings for this locomotive and so I finally thought about actually getting around to making one. I did a quick search for wheel bases and diameters and the nearest chassis is the Dapol/Hornby L&Y Pug. The Y6 is an inside cylinder design but removal of the cylinders and connecting rod shouldn't cause too much of a problem although they are not seen in any case. https://www.lner.info/locos/Y/y6.php https://www.lner.info/locos/J/j70.php I checked the drawing against the leading dimensions given in the above links and had a good look at both photographs and a pug that I have had for about thirty years now and then set about making the box structure for the skirts, and the body sides and ends. The body is made from .030" plasticard which has been scribed with a razor saw to represent planking, the framing will be represented with either micro strip if have any of suitable size or cut my own from .020" plasticard. My Pug of thirty years will not be chopped up for this exercise for I have ordered another from good old eBay that will be used to power my latest contraption. Gibbo.

Hi Wickham, Am I to guess you may be the one that squished a perspex BFB and studied the subjective stresses via the refractive patterns shewn ? Interesting piece of work there, I have actually read parts of it, provided by a chap from Derby research Centre when I was at Resco, some years back. As for the length of your PhD thesis I feel that that it is an irrelevance, for you could express the difference in simple percentage terms given equivalent wheel diameters and tyre wear and could relay the figure in a simple sentence. I still suggest that tyre profile would have far more of an effect over the juxtaposition of comparative designs of wheel with regard to stiffness ratios. Do you have any thoughts upon the effect of the difference in axle box types for white metal lined bronze bearings with their hydrodynamic lubrication offer a more cushioned transfer of mass to the axle than those of roller bearing types as is shewn by the rate of frame fracture in locomotive so equipped ? Gibbo.

Hi Wickham, I should like to see to the PhD level mathematical analysis that shows by what amount a Bullied wheel is so much more stiff that it causes a greater incidence of slip to any degree over conventional spokes along with the juxtaposition of the effects of tyre wear one way or another, which I suspect is a far greater variable to this regard. I remember seeing 850 at Settle junction in the early 1980's, we were very excited to hear it coming, out of sight, cuffing furiously, from a distance, and then very disappointed to see it trundle by at about thirty miles an hour. Gibbo.

Hi Dave, I have to admire a man with such optimism that he buys a locomotive for which he yet needs to reverse engineer a project for ! Sorry Dave but I'm a fifteen inch man and mine is an LMS engine. Gibbo.

Hi Tom, There are drawings and plenty of photographs in Pullman Profile Volume 5 by Anthony M Ford should you need. Gibbo.

Hi Felix, I repaired 45407 at Riley's some years back after it was involved in a collision with eight Mk1's at Rawtenstall station. The black five ended up having its buffer beam removed the main frame plates straightened and replacement buffer gussets and drag box channels riveted to the buffer beam upon refitting, all that was damaged upon the coaches was shattered buffer collars. Mk1's are quite strong ! Gibbo. Edited for Jason's benefit !

Hi Catkins, To my thinking the solution of such a problem comes from the inversion of what is the perceived problem, this is is to actually activate ones own intelligent local control by engaging ones own brain. Controversial I know ! Gibbo.

Hi Al, Do the carriage roofs have rain strips ? If so I make a card template that locates on top of the cantrail gutter which I then use a pencil to mark out the line of the rain strip and then apply glue to that line to which I stick the rain strip to. I nudge the rain strip into place with the end of a fine steel rule while sighting it up longitudinally to ensure a smooth curve. I use Revell Contacta that has a fine needle type applicator and just t make sure once set in place I wash over the rain strip in sections with Mek-Pac in case there any bits that remain unstuck. Here are two pictures of Car No. 54 part way through painting showing my card template and the resulting rain strips, it would seem that Tamiya masking tape is a good match for Pullman Cream. Gibbo.

All I could see were the Toblerone tunnels !!! Google that.

Hi Folks, I'm still on with the Prestwin conversion, although the Pullman cars have not been forgotten, (Railmatch Pullman cream does not cover very well and and now have had a third coat, four including the very pale grey undercoat). Ladders have been added which were first formed to shape and then positioned so that small .030" plasticard upstands could be sited that lined up with the sole bar. Once glued into place the upstands were trimmed length and the whole glued into position upon the wagon. Unfortunately the two varieties of ladder I have do not have the correct rung spacing for this type of wagon which ought to have eleven. The ladder I have used provides nine and the ladder that I chose not to use would have provided fourteen. The axle boxes have been both reduced in depth and re-profiled from the rectangular box that they were to a pear shape along with a 1mm long by 1.5mm diameter plastic rod stuck to the front to resemble a roller bearing axle box. This small detail has made quite a difference to the appearance to the chassis, I was originally wondering whether I should bother but I am pleased that I did. The chassis has been painted black, the ladders Bauxite (late freight stock red for those even more pedantic than me) and the walk-ways are painted to resemble galvanised steel for which I used Humbrol matt 106. I then painted the discharge control handles blue and yellow, unfortunately I put the blue handles on the right instead of the left, I am as amused as I am annoyed by this and will re paint them another day. All that is now needed is to order a set of transfers from Cambridge Custom Transfers, sheet BL48, and the wagons will be looking something like they should. I have various transfer sheets the are needed for various projects and so when I've got a suitable order I shall make a job-lot list. Gibbo.

Hi Ray, I agree and may I suggest that the category of, " Things that make you ", most certainly contains those people that allege to be educated who then totally dismiss demonstrably proven and measured evidence, mathematical logic applied with scientific rigour and any sense of enquiry into anything at all that may present mystery such as the Pyramids in Egypt. They are the kinds of imbeciles that claim that the sound application of mathematical logic is simply "playing with numbers", and also that granite may be cut to within a thousandth of an inch with a copper saw by slaves because Zahi Hawass and Co. have conjectured it may be so, ( you might like to demonstrate that one if its true ! ). In fact all they have to do is scream, "Conspiracy !", while offering nothing in the way evidence themselves and that is the end of the matter, sad. ​If these people are so clever I would like one of these conspiracy deniers to explain to me how the Stones of Balbec were quarried without them cracking in the first place and second how they were lifted from the quarry site and put into place for the Romans, who are said to have placed them, only had six ton cranes. The reason I ask is because I do not know. Here is a quote that actually is on the record: "We'll know when our disinformation program is complete when everything that the American public believes is false." William Casey former CIA Director 1981. Such a state of affairs is unfortunately more of a shame than it is funny, but hey, it is still funny ! Gibbo.

Hi Kieth, Oh no they aren't !!! Gibbo.

Would that be the now damaged Granite box that not only is made to within one ten thousandth of an inch and also matches the exact size of the Ark of the Covenant ?