Paul80

IIRC the tracks fed to one half of the turntable are wired the same as the feed tracks but all output tracks on the other side of the dead section have to have their polarity switched, so all tracks on the left half are wired for example black to track nearest and red to track farthest (other colours are available) and the tracks on the right hand side are wired red to nearest and black to farthest. Hope you can understand what I wrote, it was much clearer in my head, the instructions should cover what's needed.

I tried that but got no reply Anyone with this system could you post a photo showing their indexing system as they don't show it on their website. Thanks

It should be ok, just remember you will be able to write CV's but not read them on the main. I use a sprog3 and DecoderPro with mine, much easier than swapping connections as not only can it read and write on the programming track but can also run one loco for testing motor, lights, sound etc.

Anyone know why locomotech do not do an indexed version of their n-gauge turntable, seems odd given they do the motor etc for both gauges, what do they use for indexing that is not compatible with n-gauge?

Have you turned on the active braking function on the non sound decoder See this thread https://www.ngaugeforum.co.uk/SMFN/index.php?topic=41518.0 NGM

Thanks guys

Hi all Looking for a little bit of help with the ID of these 2 decoders Obviously one is a 6 pin direct fit decoder and the other is wired but they are obviously different decoders, Right, but JMRI's DecoderPro reports them both as Lenz silver Mini Decoders. The 6 pin one I bought New as a Lenz Silver Mini and the other one was removed from a second hand poor running Dapol Terrier, can they both be Lenz Silver mini's or is one of them something else. Interestingly the Terrier runs fin in DC now the wired decoder has been removed could that one be faulty which is why its reporting as a Lenz silver Mini or have Lenz reduced the size of their Mini decoders from when I bought the 6 pin one about a year ago. Thanks Paul

Having seen the photos of what's under the hood and given that the bunker weight is removable to allow the fitting of a speaker for sound, what sound decoder would fit in the space that was made for the R/A decoder, it looks to be too tight for any of the small Zimo or ESU sound decoders, what decoder do the makers think will fit?

I have been using the Gaugemaster Autofrogs on quite a few layouts and with a number of different controllers ie Gaugemaster Prodigy, Lenz and a MERG system and never had any issues with them. Paul

Yep that was why I said some

I hope not

That's was lucky, did you buy your lottery ticket, I know some Zimo decoders die if you use a 4ohm instead of the correct 8ohm, so not killing one designed for 100ohm by using a 8 ohm is either very lucky or testament to how well built ESU decoders are.

I have fitted a few TTS decoders including one delivered last week and none of them had any insulation out of the box, must be something very new they are doing now.

I ended up going with this one, like Gorilla Glue but sets in 5 minutes https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F160656595937

Thanks for all the replies In the end I went with this one, like Gorilla Glue but sets in only 5 minutes works a treat, https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F160656595937

The secret with TTS decoders is to NOT use heat shrink, not even loose fitting un-shrunk heat shrink as they do get hot and do need cooling air and get hot enough to shrink un-shrunk heat shrink. Hornby used to just recommend a strap of thin tape over the decoder to hold it in place and some thin tape under the decoder for insulation, I use Kapon tape and have never had an issue, actually the only time I had an issue was with the first one I tried were I used un-shrunk heat shrink, which shrunk with the heat and resulted in a blown decoder due to no ventilation. Obviously others will do different but that's what Hornby used to recommend and may still do

I often find it's a simple case of putting both ends coupled together on either main or programming track then write the addresses etc to them both at the same time, that way I find direction issues and lighting issues get sorted automatically, unless its a Dapol then they are always a nightmare that need lots of CV changes just to get the basic directional lighting to work.

Thanks for that, trouble is I need to cover quite a large area so would need a huge number of tubes of UHH to cover the area.

Hi Guys I am working on a new quite large layout and have got to the scenic building stage, the plan is to depict a twin track mainline meandering through the countryside and plan on using white insulation foam to model the hills etc. This would need to not only be glued to the baseboards but also to each other to enable a hight to be built. So anyone got any recommendations for a foam safe glue that can be used on a large area. I suppose PVA is fine for the wooden base board to foam but that would I suspect not be so good for the foam to foam joins as it would only dry around the edges. Anything else I can use. Thanks

I can't find any reference to Bar Cars being called "Bruce" got any links?

Hi I am looking for some help with a Pullman Rake I am putting together but have been butting my head against a brick wall with one aspect Regarding the use of Bar cars during their MK1 coach period Given that Bachmann & Farish only produced the Hadrian Bar car and given that I can find no info on any other Mk1 bar car was the Hadrian the only Mk1 Bar Car Pullman had or did they have a number of Bar cars all called Hadrian? I am assuming they would have more than one service on the tracks at any one time needing a Bar Car, or is that assumption incorrect? If they had other Bar cars in the Mk1 period what were they called. Thanks Paul

Unfortunately by trying it with the 8ohm speaker it probably has already been damaged so don't expect to much once the correct 100ohm speaker has been found. If it does work buy a lottery ticket

If they ever make a second N-Gauge model can I suggest a nice modern well designed 9F, Dapol have not made any for years and the price they go for on eBay shows there is still a demand for them, and a much better designed model would I suspect sell well.

Why would this topic need to be closed?

It's often recommended to use a dab of tacky was on the inside of the hook, that improves the hold on most n-gauge couplings. I have a large number of wagons from Farish, Dapol and Peco and find the couplings are more reliable if they are grouped together by maker, mix and matching gives far more unreliability than keeping them all grouped together.