simmo009

Thank you John.

In respect of these, do they become less feasible as the scale/gauge gets smaller? I have been told they are 'impossible ' in N gauge. Can anyone tell me of functional instances of hinged lifting sections in this size, and what (if any) additional precautions or works are necessary to ensure a successful outcome. Thanks in advance.

Anyway, my first crack at a layout design as follows. Your feedback is welcome. Scenic Area.pdf

Stationmaster. To recap, early mid 60's, BR Eastern ish, all steam locomotives. Keith. 15' 8" (4.7m) along the back edge, 10' (3.0m) along the left edge. In my minds eye, looking across the fiddle yard into the scenic section will could be awesome, and would make the whole seem less big. Rotating the plan 180 degrees means the backscene will obscure the view unless you are inside the boards. A perspex wall to safeguard stock in the fiddle yard will keep the open look, and provide alternative viewing angles. I have sent a general message regarding the original thread, but I will dm the mod, thx for the address. And thanks for the compliment on Nudge Nudge (shameless Monty Python fan), that is my first layout build for 30 some years, and the first ever with scenery. Always had dreams as a kid, but life got in the way.

Somehow I managed to hide the original thread (numpty). Anyway, my first crack at a layout design as follows. Your feedback is welcome. Scenic Area.pdf

RUB give both internal and external dimensions on their site. I have given the internal ones. There is a slight taper on the outside, definitely less so if at all on the inside. May be worth leaving some space to get fingers underneath though.

The biggest is a 145 litre, 710mm x 545mm x 400mm deep. Or there is a 70 litre same footprint but 200mm deep. These are excellent boxes with a secure locking system, and nice and square, not tapered. You can buy direct, way cheaper than from a shop, and postage is reasonable.

That is a reasonable summation Zomboid. I am going to tinker with the track plan and see what the new perspective allows. Feel free to have a go yourself.

The intention is to have the mainline expresses and long goods to run, and/or more hands on operation of goods/branch workings. It can be single or multiple operated. I have a black Z21 with router, so phones can be used as individual throttles as visitors come to play / admire. I intend to create a schedule of operations rather than a timetable, so the number of available operators will vary the recycle time. As an example, there will be 4 rakes of Express carriages, but each will have an alternate locomotive to switch out.

Just finishing off this one, 1673 x 442mm, Inglenook shunting puzzle. This has taken around 8 weeks from start to finish, making best use of furlough time. If you go L shape, the curves take out a lot of space. I think a straight layout would serve you best.

As per previous post, see my prior design with less levels over a larger footprint. Scenic Area.pdf Fiddle Yard Plus.pdf

Keith, yes, that board could move right, but perhaps not as far as you show. Interestingly, my thoughts prior to this was very much in line with Harlequin's alternative suggestion, although relative positions of items were a little different. I will stick these up shortly, just need to transfer from another device. The main reason for dropping this one was the perceived limited station, although I am sure I am missing a trick that would overcome this. You will see what I mean shortly I hope.

Almost. From the top right corner of the room, at 1.4 metres, the wall kicks in at 45 degrees for 1.7 metres, the returns to the original orientation. There is another door in this wall too, already opens outwards. The pathway along these walls to the right gives access to the rest of the room.

Great stuff guys, keep it coming. Losing the small board to give upper and lower level u-shapes is a definite possibility. My workbench has a built in second radius loop so running in does not have to happen on the layout. There is 1.1 metres beyond the end of the fiddle yard, but the door opens into it. Hanging the door the other way would involve relaying the floor, so is a no-no. However, looping off at the end of the fiddle yard is definitely a viable proposition. There are walls along the north and west sides (north being the side with the fiddle yards). The south side is open, but it is not possible to take any more footprint. To be honest, I am at the limit with the overhang of the station area. The curve in can be widened to accommodate any necessary throat pointwork, and the radius can also increase.

Nothing assembled yet, but I have boards in these sizes already. Typical frame would be ex 2" x 1" pse hardwood, so leaving reasonable access to the lower fy. I was thinking to fiddle on the forward lines then drive them to the rear lines for despatch. A traverser may be the way to go at low level, it would save a lot of points as well as obviate the access issue.

Thanks for the responses so far. Aire Head, i will read your thread with interest this evening. Here you go guys, main baseboard plan and an upper level. Corner fillets can be added if required. You will see that the upper level terminus board will overhang the rear of the low level board by 300mm, but the full width won't fit on the paper. I was thinking of a 200mm separation between board tops. I am looking at approx. 750mm outer radius curve on the upper level, with 50mm track centres, but will transition the curves and widen the spacing in the middle on the inner track to prevent stock overlap. I would like to keep the curves on the lower level above 500mm radius. There is a doorway at the right hand end of the fiddle yard, hence the odd length of the board. Maybe a branch could work off the low level fiddle yard and utilize a 'gentle' gradient (possibly 3 degrees) as these will be short trains. With regards to a theme, I am thinking towards East Coast / ex LNER based on the stock that I have. High Level Baseboards.pdf Low Level Baseboards.pdf

Greetings all. I am going to build a layout (no, really), but as we are all aware, it is tricky squeezing everything you want into the available space. So, I have a general 10' x 8' area to work with, and the boards are mainly 800mm deep, 12mm ply. One of them will be 600mm deep, but is only 1400mm long. There will be additional space for generous fiddle yards. Working in 00 gauge, late BR steam, possibly early diesels / DMU. DCC control will be used. I would like a bit of everything really, twin track mainline (Pacifics + 6 × Mk1), branch operation, goods workings, both through and stopping. Having tried many ways to accommodate this in the given space, it all gets very cramped and train set like. So I have been playing with gradients on Scarm, which to be honest has made things even worse. Also, I am aware of the traction issues of steam locomotives with gradients. Therefore, my thinking is now moving towards a multi-level arrangement, where each level is independent, one for Expresses, one as a branch and one for goods, operated as follows. Base level - goods traffic, fiddle yard to scenic to fiddle yard. This gives lots of footprint for traffic generating industry etc. Long through trains (9f's with 20 - 30 wagons) plus assorted 4-6-0's with industry specific trains, or general goods for a shunting yard. Mid level - branch line, a few small through stations with passing loops and limited goods facilities, tank engines with 2 bogie carriages max, or 6/7 wagons. Again, FY - scenic - FY. Top level - twin track mainline, FY to terminus, sort of Minories. It seems to me that this will give excellent scope for scenery, and the opportunity for some more natural looking scenic breaks, whilst avoiding the known issues with gradients, and also breaking the whole into distinct phases so that progress can be seen to be made. I will put up some diagrams of the baseboards shortly to give a better idea of what I have to play with. It seems to me that this concept would deliver 3 independent models on a common footprint, but tied together scenically and thematically. Any input on the general concept would be welcome.

Pg, don't despair. I am on design #20 and finally have something I think will operate well and that can be built. Try and come at it from a few angles with a clean sheet for each, and then take the best bits from each and create a new whole. You have a good size area to work with there, with the assistance of the members here you should get a nice model railway at the end of it.

Hi Adwoot. Back in for a few years after a long break (seems quite common), ostensibly to assist my nephew, but watching YouTube and going to shows really inspired me to return. DCC is definitely the way to go if you are starting afresh. Pick a good quality control system. They are modular so you can add other functionalities as you progress. Do visit your local club, the help I received there was excellent. You can trade skills, so you may be able to do something for someone who will help you with chipping your old loco's. Code 100 would be your best track option with older stock. There are so many 'how to' videos on YouTube, it is really easy to see how to do things. Practice and research should always be carried out to maximise results. Start small and get your eye in before going big, practice makes perfect. I am building a shunting puzzle, 1.6m x 0.4m as my first proper sceniced layout. I am adding lighting and making a mimic panel, both firsts for me. Luckily, I managed to get all of the materials together before the lockdown. Subject to a delivery, I think I might have it all ready by the end of the month. The big plan is a 16' x 10' layout, which has gone through about 20 significantly different versions over the last year or so. Welcome back to the hobby, there are so many aspects to enjoy.

Settrack curved points are a bit weird, all I can say is play with the real bits. I think SCARM is brilliant, but sometimes a bit too exact, there is a bit of play in the rail joiners that gives you a bit of wiggle room.

Go to www.freetrackplans.com, click the geometry tab at the top, it shows all of the arrangements. I believe the two curved point crossover works on 2nd to 3rd radius. How about building the embankment as a separate lift off piece?

Peco do curved level crossings to fit SetTrack radii, will fit Hornby no problem.

Some handy little tools at B&M. Multitool @ £4.99. Tool set @ £4.99. Telescopic magnet with LED light @ £2.99. Telescopic mirror with LED light @ £2.99.

Tested the chip on an ESU chip tester tonight. Faulty chip confirmed. Thanks for your comments, will keep them in mind if I get future chip issues.