Keith Addenbrooke

Elsewhere I have seen exactly that approach used - polystyrene block hidden inside an outer casing of thinner wooden strips. Totally convincing, much lighter, and the ‘genuine foam core’ joke got used too.

“Finished” After the rail paint had dried, I gave the track another clean and then finally brought it inside: I’ve mentioned before that photos aren’t easy to take in the layout space, as the baseboards go in front of the window, but it was still very nice to see the MV8 on a short goods train at last. It’s only a small first step, but I do have a layout. It’s time for me to say thank you for the encouragement and advice. I’ve plenty more builds, projects and the larger H0e layout to work on (as well as my long-term paused SG projects) so while this project is complete, I’m sure there’ll be another train along soon:

Hi there. With regards to the ‘run-round loop’ point, if there is room to include it, I’d suggest it might well be worth it, not just to look like the prototype, but for the extra switching flexibility it gives: you always have the option of not using it. Just a thought, Keith.

As long as he doesn’t watch to the very end of the video…

As promised, some further pictures of progress. Scenery I wanted to add some simple scenery before time ran out for the end of the holidays (otherwise it wouldn’t get done at all). This is just basic beginner’s stuff, to see how I got on and what I needed to take note of for future reference: despite happily playing trains operating model railways on and off over a period of more than forty years, too many house moves (and other factors) mean I’ve never actually tried scenery on even a simple working layout before. So here goes: With plenty of Calci Sand to hand, I scattered a layer over the bare baseboards to add some simple undulations, then sprinkled on a mix of colours from the tubs of flock powders I had in stock. At the other end of the baseboard I included a trio of H0 Scale huts, Auhagen freebies my Dad got some years ago. These are to serve two purposes: 1. Could I make them look like they were set into the ground, not just sitting on top of it. 2. Can I carry the baseboard around the house without knocking them off: As the sides are very narrow, I simply brushed a layer of PVA alongside the track and stuck down some flock powder (I also did this for the section inside the point). I tried to mix the colours as I made my way around the layout: An overall view after the PVA had set however quite clearly shows which bits were stuck straight down, and which were soaked and glued like ballast, as the parts that weren’t soaked remained much lighter: It might have been wise to find more time so I could stick down the base layer of Calci Sand first, then add the grass, as several bits along the edges brushed off when I was removing loose pieces of flock powder (top left is particularly noticeable). For a first attempt however, and with limited time to finish, I think I can still be happy with this as a test. Another good clean of the track and it was time for the next test run: (The train is running the right way for testing the electrical supply to the siding, though the wrong way for shunting!). The impression the close-ups give me is perhaps of a less well-maintained NG line running along a windswept coastline? I’d need to take more care to define the boundary between ballasting and scenery for it to look more like a modern Austrian NG line, which was the idea (I bought Peco Mainline Flextrack for this project - and until a couple of weeks ago I was still looking at Swiss Metre-Gauge lines of course). Nevertheless, I’m more than happy that a bit of practice is what I need now. Final task was to paint the outside of the rails, and then take this layout inside where it can be called ‘finished.’ Hopefully I’ll be able to complete this Chapter of the story with a final post tomorrow.

It’s just a thought, but depending on budget / availability, there are some second hand Bemo H0m models around (Swiss electrics) with excellent chassis (4 and 6 axle). If the body / pantographs are a bit worn the price might come down, but the innards may still be up to scratch. As I say, just a thought, Keith.

Thank you - I think my scenery may well turn out looking a little bit like the colours in the second photo. As for the coaches, my understanding is that these days the emphasis on tourism means the local authorities expect the trains to be kept quite clean - I’m not sure I could weather coaches to look quite like those ones do! Progress is continuing, and I should have some more photos tomorrow. Really useful pictures to see. Thanks, Keith.

Hi there! No apology needed - I chose the Calci Sand based on the size of the chippings and in that respect it is ideal and still good value for money. It hasn’t gone too ‘goby’ after gluing either. Personally I quite like the colour, and I could always darken or paint it if I wanted to anyway. It’s only when I compare it to photos of the Austrian Zillertalbahn to match the rolling stock I’m using that it catches me out. Their ballast is a well-maintained light grey - closer to the colour the Calci Sand was before soaking. Thanks for the book suggestion too - I’m not short of things to read, but I’ll have a look on t’internet at some point, Keith.

Tracklaying 2 I’ve been able to make some more progress and can expect to finish over the next day or so (my modelling is a bit ahead of the write-ups): I completed the track laying using just 3 yards of track: As a test layout, I want to use the practice for more than test running trains (though there’ll be plenty of that). In terms of track laying, 5 details I’m trying are: 1. Electrical power using Pecolectric wired fishplates - not everyone recommends these, so I want to see how I get on with them here. 2. I’ll be inserting spare sleepers to hide the gaps at track joins. 3. A tip I got from NGRM is to paint the area under point blades a darker colour to hide the absence of ballast there. 4. Electrical contact using point blades - it’s worked for me on unscenicked layouts, but is not generally recommended. Will I find it still works here (it does simplify wiring)? 5. This track joint (beneath the front wheels of the grey open wagon below) is fitted with insulated railjoiners: another test for the point blade electrical contact. I’m happy with the size of the pieces of Calci Sand I’m using as ballast. When I’ve used granite clippings before, I’ve found they turn a darker shade of grey when soaked with water / washing up liquid mix before gluing. This is it still dry: This Calci Sand however rather turned the colour of, well, sand… I’ll edit the relevant post earlier from when I bought this to give a warning - I’m going to live with it, but it could put some people off what might otherwise be a viable ballast option. I’ll see how it looks when the rest of the boards are sceniced.

Hi Andy, nice to see the progress - I particularly like this picture: could easily pass as real, and when I think how small the rowing boat and bushes are in this scale it’s very impressive.

Tracklaying 1 Finally, some progress with track laying on the test circuit layout. I’m mainly following advice shared on the NGRM Forum, although the mistakes are all my own of course. To being with, I’d made an MDF former to help align the 228mm end curves, which I marked out using Setrack: Using Flextrack then allowed me to introduce slight transitions even on this small layout, which were initially marked using drawing pins. When I was happy with the alignment these were removed and replaced with track pins, which meant I could also check the curves with some rolling stock - the VS5 Driving Cab is possibly the longest piece of H0e rolling stock available? (It does have quite an overhang, but as a Liliput model is still designed for 228mm curves).. Track was then trimmed to size and glued in place with DIY store PVA before being placed under weights to set: I’m doing the two end curves first, then the side pieces: the track plan is a simple circuit with a stub siding along one side.

Indeed - this actually happened to me today: I’m working on a small scenic test track and connected up the controller for a test (DC, just two wires). Engine* behaved itself perfectly when the controller was set for Forwards, but the moment I flicked the switch to Reverse it instantly set off at full speed - even though the power was still at zero! No way I’d have prevented a high-speed drop test on a layout like Trelothen. Fortunately (as @The Stationmaster and others will know), I strongly favour continuous run layouts, so was able to catch the Engine as it came around. Not sure what I’d done, though disconnecting and reconnecting the controller fixed it. (* I’ll use the term Engine rather than Locomotive as it was just a ‘naked’ powered chassis with no body).

I think there’s kudos to be recognised in hand-laying bespoke trackwork like this when it’s for use in a fiddle yard (instead of just buying a double slip to be done with it). Well done. Many years ago now, when I was working for a precision engineering company, we worked out just how much was being spent on tools and jigs that were being made to the same standards as the high-tech products they supported - it was just assumed that everything would be done to the same level of quality, Keith.

As noted above, I’ve not been able to progress my layout project as I’d hoped over the Summer. When I have had some time, I’ve been doing a bit of selling and buying instead. Two new locomotives have appeared: The H0e U-Class 0-6-2T is a Zillertalbahn loco (#1) bought from the 009 Society Members Shop - exactly the loco I need. The 3-D print is from the Merseyside and South West Lancashire Group of the 009 Society and is a 4mm scale Bagnall Tram engine (based on the Stony Stratford prototype). The level of detail on the firebox backhead is quite incredible, and the Kato chassis it has been supplied with runs perfectly over my Insulfrog points. Note too that the chassis and body print together are also only 1/4 the price of some new r-t-r 009 DC locomotives! There is a logic to this purchase (in addition to the fact I like it!): I’ve not tried building or painting a locomotive before, nor have I tried modelling with a 3-D resin print, so this seemed a gentle way to see how I get on, before maybe looking at something more ambitious for my HOn30 line. I’ve also bought a rake of Liliput H0e Austrian wagons from the 009 Society Shop, and a couple of larger Austrian Narrow Gauge coaches as well, making the most of the products available to help get me get established. Although I was very impressed with the Bemo Ge 4/4i, I do have to work on the basis of “selling before buying” and took the decision to trade it on - it was a pragmatic decision: I can make up for lost time by not needing overhead line electrification, added to which it looks likely I’ll have to move my portable boards around the house more often than I’d thought, so minimising the bits that can get knocked off makes sense. It means all my H0e is now Austrian based again. * The new arrivals have been successfully test run, and are now just awaiting their layout. That’s still the next job, Keith. (* I’ll overlook the German RSE livery on the 0-4-0 diesel, as it later ran on the Zillertalbahn)

That’s actually the first photo I’ve seen of one of these long awaited vans - very nice. As a general point, I have a theory that manufacturers do sometimes take note of the models that pioneers such as yourself make when deciding what to invest in - over and above wishlists and Forum discussions, I think they are the best proof people really do want something. I couldn’t know what research Kato did in this case of course, but you never know. Just a thought, Keith.

I seem to remember there was even a bridge at the station throat to provide a scenic block to the fiddle yard?

Hi Dave, thanks for sharing this link - a really well produced video, very informative, some excellent modelling and a really great prototype-based layout in the making already. Thanks, Keith.

Really like the way this particular view is developing - I think there’s something about watching a train on this sort of open line that’s really enjoyable, and well worth incorporating into a layout design where possible.

Hi there 40 058, a great choice of theme and some really helpful advice from the contributions above. One entirely free source of advice on getting into the ATSF - though perhaps a little later and more rural than your preferences indicate- is all the help I received here on RMweb at the end of last year / start of this year. My own project paused (due to space reasons at home) so the thread has slipped down the Forum, but if you follow the link in my signature to “Modelling the ATSF in 1970 in HO” you’ll find loads of great information that was shared with me (just skip past my own musings). If I might pass on two pieces of advice I’ve found particularly helpful, one would be to explore aspects of US modelling other than just the trains - the style and size of buildings is quite different, and I’ve really enjoyed putting together a couple of Walthers building kits for example. The second is that I needed to learn a different way of sourcing items to the one I was used to with buying for OO layouts: hunting down things I really want is now part of the game. Have fun, be good to see how you get on, Keith.

OK, so this is not really a post about modelling progress, but every day teaches me something new about Narrow Gauge modelling, and today I finally discovered what the small pieces of plastic that come with some new r-t-r H0e stock are for. I thought I’d share it for anyone else like me who is new to all this: it seems they clip into the holes at the ends of the couplings. This provides a quick and simple form of semi-permanent coupling that doesn’t involve removing or modifying the existing standard couplings on the rolling stock, and helps keep trains coupled up when going round sharp curves. They are a bit fiddly to fit, but I managed not to lose any while doing some test running this afternoon on a desktop Setrack circuit. The 009 Peco GR-106 bogies I’ve tried on the scratchbuilt rolling stock don’t seem to have the holes, so this may just apply to European H0e. My apologies if everyone already knows this and it’s just new to me, but I was rather impressed. Keith.

Hi Andrew, I don’t think we’ve met, so I’ll guess you won’t know what my job is. Let’s just say, “Could have been worse” might be rather an understatement

(It’s a disguise: “Big green engines crossing the Saltash? Not seen any, Sir. Not allowed, Sir. Yes, Sir, Understood, Sir”)

If I may be forgiven for quickly dipping back into the previous page (bit slow at the back: only bit I got about the electrics was the James Bond reference). Returning to the subject of deliveries, I was reminded of this conversation today: This afternoon I received a boxed up delivery from a specialist model railway retailer which came neatly wrapped up in a “NEXT” shop plastic bag. Remember: the trade are our friends here 😀 (and I could do with smartening up for work) As it happens, I’m double insured on this one anyway: I’ve sold before I bought, and I really was out the front weeding the path when the postman came 😇. Some nice r-t-r to look forwards to after work this evening.

John Pryke’s Kalmbach Book “Building City Scenery for your Model Railroad” (2000) told the story of the street running modular section of his layout that was based on this line - great to see more prototype photos of it here. Thank you.

When I began this thread on 11th April, I did some with some caution, knowing how many previous false starts I’d made over the past couple of years. I’m most definitely not at that stage again (“Good!”), but both the planned layout space and the space I can use for baseboard building / tracklaying are being used to support family moves this Summer. Our outhouse still looks full after the first full carload of packing and boxes has been taken to the tip for recycling. As it now looks like it could be a while before either time or space become available again, passengers are now being advised to make alternative arrangements: But I’m sure another one usually comes along soon after: [In other words, I’m going to be paused for longer than I expected - I just wanted to confirm (to myself really) that I really haven’t given up or stopped, and I’ll try and make sure my next post includes some sign of modelling. Thanks, Keith.]