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Graham Radish

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Everything posted by Graham Radish

  1. Yup, this will instantly damage the chip, and sound decoders work best when all the factory pcb's are removed
  2. After ive seen how powerful the digikeijs system is, i will now only buy their parts, they make every box you can think of and have great prices. Their reverse loop box is outstanding.
  3. The biggest nuisance here is the farish class 70 the front/tail lights are both in the same led cluster I have scrapped the factory pcb to allow fitment of a larger speaker, however the bodyshell has its small pcb still attached, so i could just solder directly to it from the decoder
  4. Hello, Quick question about decoder lighting, as im aware the white wires for the front light and the yellow wires for the rear, but when they say "rear" do they mean the red light or the white headlamp on the opposite side? i know everything shares a common positive (blue wire) but how do only 3 wires white,yellow and blue light up both headlights and taillights? Cheers.
  5. Then the loco must be wired wrong.
  6. As an added bonus, turn down your programming track current as low as it will go, and yes every single bare component needs to be insulated, otherwise one simple mistake can blow the decoder and the leds. farish although stellar models, they need to get a grip and realise people now run digital control we are not stuck in the dark ages. the tops of the chassis ought to be isolated by default.
  7. Sorry to bump this older thread but where did you end up fitting the speaker to the 70? theres no room in the fuel tank area, oops i mean the farish 70
  8. Hehe, yea these chips are extremely fragile with shorts, last year i shorted the zimo 6pin versions speaker out to the frame of the loco, by accident just heard a loud repetitive whine then saw smoke, some times they just fail without any obvious signs though. these things literally have to be insulated on every join.
  9. Sounds like a speaker output short, probably blown the diodes on the decoder, digitrains will replace them however for £18 plus 4 quid postage, these chips are far to easy to short out, i highly recommend a tiny dab of 2part epoxy glue over the exposed wiring once everythings soldered in place, they say these winbond cpus have protection, yea right they blow easier than ozzy osbourne over sharons dog
  10. Blimey im surprised the battery didnt get red hot and blow up lol
  11. What type of 9v battery is it? not a PP3 surely
  12. 1.1amp from a 9v battery? they only deliver 500ma, a useful max current of roughly 30ma dont you mean a 110ma burst?
  13. Here is a photo of the class 70 showing simple painted details missing around the wheelsets, no big problem just correcting it right now with some revell acrylics Revell number: 15 (Yellow Matt) Revell number: 36 (Red Matt) Revell number: 05 (White Matt) Im sure there are many other farish items that need these small corrections.
  14. When i was a small child, i was given a Trainset for christmas, not a locoset.
  15. Its common for PWM to cause flicker at low levels of brightness, some people see it some dont it depends how good your eyes are, going below 128 on the CV i really start to notice it. So now for cab lighting i just fit 2.2kohm 0805 SMT resistors, it gives me a level playing field between all my locos. An the brightness level is spot on.
  16. I highly recommend you use a 2kohm (2000Ohm) resistor for cab lighting, these are never that bright in real life, and using any decoder dimming function causes flicker. EDIT, I Meant 2.2KOhm (2200 Ohms)
  17. http://digitrains-app.blogspot.com/2015/06/control-your-locomotives-with-gamepad.html Though it was a great idea tbh.
  18. But have you tested the chip as i said outside of the locomotive? the two middle pins are track input power for 6 pin SIP chips
  19. Another thing to consider is (especially more so with N gauge for some reason) constantly handling your locos/trains by picking them up and placing on separate tracks can seriously damage the decals and paintwork believe it or not, especially if they have not been treated to a coat of varnish from new, sounds silly but its true. The dr5000 has a load of short circuit protections built in, but i dont want to take any chances
  20. Zimo chips when working are amongst the best out there, but quality control seems to be slipping with them lately.
  21. I've got a feeling this is down to chassis isolation, the chassis itself might be causing the short once the dcc chip is installed, is it hardwired decoder or socketed? test the chip on its own outside of the engine mate, the decoders track wires connect them to the track, you will then be certain where the fault is.
  22. Not sure but i had to send back a zimo sound chip today to digitrains, its just stopped working for no reason, no burning out nothing, just wont work. Even though its been working great prior, very strange. I always Crocodile clip any dcc chip first to the controller to test its even working before installing.
  23. Also its worth mentioning, real trains have suspension springs to absorb a lot of wobble, models in oo gauge do not.
  24. Hello folks, We all know there are real steam trains in OO gauge, but why dont manufacturers build clag circuits for diesels? i think it would look great! especially on class 37's Something along the lines of adding a certain oil at the top of the trains exhaust and it activates with a function button or on train movement from a standstill. What are your thoughts on this?
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