Graham Radish

I know this is a very old topic but i'm posting this just to let folks know about this loco instead of posting a new topic, while its body and chassis are superb the pickups are not great, what i did was solder on bigger pickups, the factory ones don't always make contact with the split chassis, less than a drop of oil will kill electrical contact completely, its for this reason now that i never ever use oil of any kind, i use lithium grease, also a drop of DEOXIT D100 on the pickups will stop dirt and will ensure perfect contact. I MUCH prefer the spring pickups on the Dapol n gauge stuff, they are a country mile better and need very minimal maintenance.

Ok i feel so stupid, the digikeijs dr5000 software has a built in backup and restore feature from a csv file! both on POM and PROG track.

Just glad i got all my sounds back lol,

Just had a play on jmri decoder pro, im afraid that ive wiped all the sounds from my class70 (MX649N) decoder! EDIT: Setting CV first to 145 then to 8 using my DR5000 has restored everything, phew...

Hello everyone, Does anyone know of any software that can backup the CV settings of ZIMO sound decoders?, im using the digikeijs dr5000. Thank you in advance.

Just what i wanted to hear my friend, great news, this will save me a lot of messing about! Ill now make a test bed with an old cheeseboard i have lying around

Ok thanks for letting me know, i should imagine it would be pretty easy to make your own spacers with pieces of plastic or wood and make them magnetic.

Brill thanks mate

Hello Is it possible to run a rolling road on a curve? I just bought the dcc concepts 4 axle set for n gauge i would like to know so then i can test my locos ability on tighter corners cheers.

Tried it doesnt work

Stupid text prediction haha

Yup, wd40 will strip oil not lubricate.

Grease wins, oil goes everywhere no matter how careful you are, it ends up all over the pickups.

Well, it seems simple polystyrene 10mm thick sheets laid on the baseboard has totally eliminated all running noise, cork didn't work but this stuff is magic even after ballasting. Also the added benefit of insulation.

In order for great success with dcc its advisable to know how everything works, not understanding the basics ends up in a world of pain and expense.

DCC current is actually bipolar DC not AC

To be perfectly honest you may as well use insulated track joiners on every piece of track, the metal ones are as much use as a chocolate teacup, the metal ones should never ever be relied on alone for continuity.

Great stuff, i use one to power my pioneer x3800ui car stereo head unit at 14.2v, the stereo is built in to the front of my baseboard for ambient sounds, the ripple and quality of the output is phenomenal actually. But please make sure you insulate the mains input cable, these are fully regulated supplies with overcurrent and short protection, they range from 5vdv supplies all the way upto 48vdc, and they do deliver the 10 to 20 amps as i have bench tested them.

Get one of these at 18VDC that way you are future proofed for life: They are adjustable from 13.5v to 19.2v The one you posted can easily get destroyed by surge current of the point motors. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-3-3V-5V-9V-12V-24V-36V-48V-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-LED-PSU/151886747221?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=451076083333&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I only switch the switch off when im pulling freight, im using a zimo 4 function sound decoder, i saved the other 2 functions for cab lights.

My class 70 farish has a switch at the bottom, i rewired this to switch off all lighting at one end, and fitted the buffer detailing pack to just one end, thus meaning its all correct in running. connect the bottom switch to the blue (commom +) on one side of the loco, job done.

I've noticed when class 70's are running at night, there are red lights on the side of the loco, what are these for? was thinking of modelling them into my loco

The answer is YES if you want to drive your trains and not your track.

Thank you, wow those manuals are real involved, ive just fitted 4.7K resistors to the cab lights, the light level is perfect now.

I've totally forgot, does anyone know what CV's you adjust to dim the leds on the brown and green wires? i use these for cab lights, cheers.