Great Eastern

Yes thanks, I have examples of all the ones that Dublo released. The ones in the Deltic colours were released in July 62, the real ones entered service from Feb 61. GE

Hi Terry D1471, Thanks for the reply, yes you're quite right about the differential between King and Castle as well as the points about the inaccuracies of the Dublo chassis (I made it circa 29+29). Also the driving wheels aren't quite the right size either. Plans I've got of the King show 8ft + 8ft 3", however, it may be that these plans aren't quite right, but whatever, your comments and conclusions are still correct. I'm afraid I don't know the exact reason why Dublo did their Castle as they did, like you I'd noticed these things but put it down to costs and ease of production / the general accuracy of models of the times. GE

Hi CJI, Certainly some Dublo colours were good, however some were clearly incorrect, eg the Deltics had white around the windows not Dublo's light grey. Modern repaints of 20's in green (eg NRM) / quality colour pics from the time (eg Colour Rail) / modern RTR locos / my memory of the roof colour, don't have quite such a green tinge to the roof as the Dublo one. Is there a Railmatch / et al, colour that more accurately corresponds to the 20's roof colour that you could suggest please ? GE

Hi Wolseley, Yes you're right, I've noticed that greenish tinge, like you I thought it was probably age / paint variations, but also I suspect that an interaction with the metal may have some affect too. Also some Dublo colours were a bit inaccurate. Here's one of the tatty 20's I used above; the roof colour is much too green of course. Interesting to note the Tamiya colour, as you say pretty close. GE

Couple of pictures of one of my Dublo Class 20's I mentioned earlier. This was the first one I did (a few years ago now) with yellow panels and a full grey roof ; rather than with a green cab roof. The donor was a bit tatty with a few damaged bits. This was mainly done with Railmatch aerosols, but window frames were with a silver paintpen ; I think this must have been about the first time I'd used one on a loco and since then I've continued to use it on all my loco repaints. As long as they're an oil based paint they do seem pretty good, the acrylic paintpens don't seem to produce such a durable surface however (understandably), so I'm careful where I use them. GE EDIT Thanks for the likes guys, much appreciated. I won't bore you with too many variations, but here's another one I did with full yellow ends. Also I filled in the ghastly screw hole in the top and put a nut in there. The screw now goes in from up underneath; it should be noted however that this has to be shorter than the normal screw, otherwise it'll simply shove the filler out of the top of the roof. I found it easier to test the screw length after I'd stuck the nut in, but before I put the filler in. In retrospect I think that in future I might just cut a disc of plasticard, paint it grey and curve to fit the roof profile and attach it with a tiny bit of Blutac, it would be easier, plus it would use the standard screw. GE

Hi Wolseley, I know EXACTLY what you mean !!!!!!! I started by doing a Dublo Class 20 with a yellow panel, then before I knew it I'd done every permutation of green cab roof / grey cab roof / with and without yellow panels then full yellow ends.................. then there's the carriage roundel ones instead of BR red lion logo............. GE

Here's a couple of pics of the problem, showing my more recent Margate King body compared to a Dublo Bristol Castle, ie with 1/2 inch inline motor. The longer King wheelbase inevitably requires longer coupling rods, repositioning of the cylinders etc, as I mentioned earlier the easiest solution is to use Margate wheels / rods, but then it's not very Dublo. Also there is another issue, I can't fit the body onto the chassis straight away as the motor extends into the cab, so the backhead would have to be cut away (like the Dublo Castles). With a new chassis the motor could conceivably be moved forward to drive the front axle, but then would be more visisble under the boiler as the Dublo motor assembly is so long. Also the steps and various bits under the cab need to be cut away as the Dublo chassis already has steps (or vice versa). I've not tried a Lima body (simply as I don't happen to have one), but it's a good idea, it may be that the dimensions have been fudged a bit and it might be possible to do something a bit different. GE

Hi Wolseley, Excellent work sir ! Nice combination of parts in your streamliners, they work well together, especially interested to see that you've used Triang and modern Hornby bodies; equally effective with both. GE

Hi Il Grifone, Yes, I know what you mean about the Farish one, I looked at that myself, but it is a bit odd as you say. I've got a few bits together, Margate body and bogie, half inch Dublo motor and Dublo Castle tender. I was thinking maybe making up my own chassis. If I used Castle wheels and valve gear I wasn't sure which coupling rods to use, as of course the wheelbase of the King is longer. Alternatively I'd considered using a Margate wheelset and complete valvegear, but then of course it's getting further away from being Dublo. Hi SR71, Like your work, well done ! GE

Hi all, Has anybody had a go at doing a Dublo neverwazza King ?? I've seen one or two Castles with a King bogie, but I wondered if anyone has done one using a King body ? If so which chassis / wheels / motor etc ?? GE

Hi Simon, Extremely useful, especially the cab information, thanks again, very much appreciated. GE

Hi RedgateModels, Thanks for that, mine only came with the exploded view. Yes, odd about the blue, and red horns !!! GE

Does anyone know if Humbrol / Kitmaster / anybody recommended any particular paints for the roof or underframe greys or the lining cream ? I seem to remember the Humbrol Deltic blue wasn't available for that long. I notice RedgateModels yours have the camouflage tins !! Normally these were for Miltary sets. Was there a Deltic set ? GE

Hi slilley, Many thanks for the information, very good. As this is the colourscheme of preservation, I'm still not entirely sure how different the greys of roof and underframe were from each other nor between repaints ? The roof colour description is particularly interesting. Do you have any further information ? For example any specification numbers for the roof or underframe greys ? Thanks, GE

Hi Barclay, Great, many thanks, I'm not going mad then, it does exist !!! I've got the Brian Webb book, but although mine is a first edition, 1982, it's a second impression. Now that should mean it's the same edition, ie not any different, just a reprint. If anybody has got a first impression maybe they could check please. There is one problem with this book, the pic I saw was in an old book, ie old in the mid 80's, so I think it was probably a 60's book. I've seen his EE book and it's not in there. I shall keep looking !!!!!!!!! Thanks again, GE Hi All, On the subject of 'Brians' I'm trying to track down Brian Waite who built the 5 inch gauge DP1. Anyone know if he's on RMweb ???

Me too, I've often thought of doing a 45 in the lovely G&SWR green. Like you I've got so many unfinished projects on the go........ GE

Hi Sagaguy and Pierview, Sorry, maybe I was wrong about the Proxxon, it's not one I've actually used, only seen. If it's any help, my old (correction) antique Minicraft (which I bought secondhand for 3 quid about 30 years ago !!!) also has speed problems so I run it through a transformer, normally my train one which I built, so it has enough amps, and I can vary the speed. GE

Hi Pierview, I think you're quite right to go for the Proxxon, they look good. Interesting about the Phoenix being a bit dark. Can I ask you what greys you used for the Deltic please? Hi Chas, Quite agree about the tankers, good work, like you mine are a work in progress, in my case very slow progress !! GE EDIT PS Have you seen this ? https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/173100-ladders-for-tank-wagons/#comment-4880777

Hi All Does anybody know if Brian Waite is on this site ? He's the chap who built that magnificent 5 inch gauge DP1 some years ago. He's something of a guru when it comes to that loco of course, and I'm still trying to track down a piccy relating to DP1s original green and cream livery. I've got a topic page open about this, https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/172953-dp1-deltic-prototype/#comment-4866663 (if anyone's interested). Thanks, GE

Hi Pierview, Nice work, as with others can I ask what paints you used please ? As regards minidrills, I'm using an old Minicraft one, not brilliant but it goes !! More importantly, when using small drills in my pillardrill, I just put the drillbit in a pinchuck, then put the pinchuck into the pillardrill's chuck. Not only does it hold it, but it keeps it more centralised, also less likely to break I've found. With very tiny drills I tend to just use a pinchuck on its own. Cheers, GE

Hi Sagaguy, Thanks for that, I'll see how I get on and get back to you on that. (My printer's decided to play up at the moment of course). Cheers GE

Nice graphics and good overlays, they look good. I'm a glutton for punishment however, and am attempting to match the tinplate ones with paint !! I'm hoping the cream and crimsons will be a bit easier than the green, as at least I'm not having to match HD carriages in the same rake. I live in hope !!! GE

Thanks for that, like your work especially using a 'cut-away' as it were to be able to match up the chassis and body. Good idea. I've also been making a production Deltic, and have used the same ploy with the sideframes, although I've made mine an intermediate length between the Dublo and Kitmaster wheelbases. It's a compromise to 'fill up the gap' so to speak under the body, but still appear to be in line with the wheels. I'll have to see how well it works when I eventually finish it !!!!! Here they are, (before fettling ) Kitmaster at the bottom, mine above. I'm making a new chassis (the only non 1960's bit) from welded steel. I've built a few loco chassis using this method as it allows a strong but heavy one to be constructed with the weight as part of the strength. Like your blue-grey carriages, I presume they are repaints of SD's ?? I'd be interested to hear about your experiences in this respect (especially lining) as I'm now trying to do some green / blood and custards myself. Thanks, GE

Hi all, I've found this at last, Ratio do some signal ladders as a pack, on the Peco site, No. 451 Signal Ladders four strips for a fiver. Hope this is useful. GE

Hi Sagaguy, Thanks for the pics and info. I presume that you have cut down the kit sideframes to match the Dublo bogie wheelbase ? What did you think of the Fox transfers ? Any good, did you have to scrape down the side mouldings to get them to lie flat, as I have heard several people say that you have to ??? Your blue looks good, pretty close to the Deltic colour, I did mine in Humbrol Prussian Dragoon blue, a Napoleonic military colour MC12 I think. This is the only thing I've done so far, and that was 40 years ago !!!! So I thought it was about time I got round to doing the rest of it !!! I'm still not sure about the roof colour versus the underframe / sideframe colour. The Bachmann NRM one uses 2 different colours, the roof being yellowish grey (ECML livery). I know the loco was repainted prior to ECML service after leaving the WCML, but I don't know whether the roof colour was changed. Obviously the repaint for preservation was different again, but I want to do mine with an in service livery. Any thoughts ? GE