RobjUK

At long last, I believe the soldering stage is finished on the Barclay! It still needs some cleaning up in details, priming and re-checking, but no more metalwork beyond screwing the cab & footplate to the chassis. Some of the details are not quite right to the prototype, such as the cab controls; generic diesel types rather than the exact style & I'm not fitting a ladder as it will get handle by young relatives and the ladder would likely get mangled in minutes. I'm hoping to fit working lights but I have not managed to source any of an appropriate style so far. The cab roof is a sliding fit - I copied Andy Siddall's idea from his thread here, using the rain strips as retainers. Photos of the cab & engine housing only, the chassis and footplate are already completed. The driver seems to be happy with it!

We do a lot of production work with things based on PICs. We use ICD3 programmer / debugger units, which are rather more expensive but much more powerful. The PiCKIT3 (or I believe there may be an PICKIT4?) should do mostly the same things, though a bit slower. Just watch out for fakes on ebay.. All the present devices are in-circuit programmable and most have in-circuit debug capability as well, where you can set a breakpoint in the source in MPLab and single-step the program in the device, monitoring variables or registers etc. as the program changes them. Just add a pin header or RJ12 socket on your board to connect the device. I'd also highly recommend the dspic32 series for any new designs, they are available with up 48K RAM, 512K flash & 60 - 70MHz instruction clock & numerous internal peripherals - for less than a fiver.. We use the CCS C compiler, which has facilities for all the standard peripherals so you don't need to mess about with low-level drivers if you don't want to.

Thanks, that's the info I needed, the key word being "headcode". For mine it appears I only two fixed working lights, one red & one white either end.

Hi, the brackets are part of the brasswork, so not a problem. The kit comes with cast resin dummy lamps, two sets with slightly different styles - and they are tiny! Somewhere between 2.5 - 3mm wide and similar depth. I don't fancy my chances of drilling them centrally, without shattering them, and totally embedding a LED (or two colour LED) inside them. I could possibly cheat on the lower rear ones, drill straight through and use a strand of optical fibre through under the cab - but the front ones are totally exposed and need to be self-contained. Castings below. If they look a bit messy it's just casting flash that I've not cleaned off yet. ps. Any idea which ones would be what colour at either end?

Edit - Sorry, wrong thread - please ignore.

Try "Wall box" or "Terminal box". Screwfix have some: https://www.screwfix.com/p/hylec-ip65-abs-enclosure-250-x-150-x-350mm/7766G?kpid=7766G&ds_kid=92700048793290388&ds_rl=1249401&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI27XbyvqW5QIVGODtCh0-Ow1lEAQYBSABEgLgdPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds That one is just over A4, this one just under: https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-ip55-enclosure-grey-270-x-180-x-135mm/86625?tc=SA8&ds_kid=92700019905980332&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249401&ds_rl=1248181&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249481&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpJSrj_uW5QIVzbHtCh2A3g_vEAQYBCABEgJHefD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Places like CEF will have similar things in various sizes. We often use them "backwards", putting the control panel side on what's supposed to be the wall mount surface, so the door or lid becomes the access side. eg. This is a little wallbox with a traffolyte panel glued on the back:

Sidelight bulbs are 12V and typically around 5 - 6W so these should be pretty similar: https://www.lamps2udirect.com/miniature-light-bulbs-miniature-lamps/12-volt-5-watt-mes-e10-15x28mm-miniature-light-bulb/139634?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrZDrxoGW5QIVTbTtCh3mJgMtEAQYBCABEgLMtvD_BwE Or see "Lucas 992" in this one - probably the originals as the Mini etc., if that's what is required? https://www.jbvintagespares.co.uk/shop/4561158208/12-volt-ba9-mcc-mes-bulbs/2828083 They also list a 2.2W MES, if a lower rating is needed.

Technically, the positive connection is the one that causes an outwards cone movement. As dasatcopthorne says, it is totally irrelevant with single speakers. it only matters if connecting more than one speaker to the same source, so they work in phase rather than cancelling each other out. The conventional test is to momentarily connect a single dry cell (eg. an AA) across the speaker wires (with it not connected to anything else). You should see a slight movement of the speaker cone - if it's outwards, speaker positive is on battery positive. Inwards means the reverse.

Thanks, but I think those are some I already looked at; they are an older style with big protruding lenses. The ones I am looking for are more like one of these styles, not much more than a block with a small lens or window:

Hi all, does anyone know of anywhere producing working lights suitable for a Barclay Class 06 ? (They look to be similar style to those on 08s, from what I can see). I've found masses of places selling larger style loco lights - or 4mm scale ones! - but nothing at all so far in an appropriate style and 7mm scale. Another possibility is a "large" 4mm scale type that's something like the same style, but a lot of places list types by name, which generally means nothing to me. I'm not picky on them being absolutely authentic to the prototype, as long as they look something like reasonable when fitted & the price is not too crazy; it should have eight lights.. Thanks, Rob.

I use Tygaflor tape - it's just about indestructible, for both mechanical protection and insulation. It's not cheap but I've never seen anything that compares to it; I know some companies use it on packaging machines to stop the steel wearing away... From a very quick search, this is the cheapest place I've found: https://www.eldertapesandrubber.co.uk/ptfe-glass-cloth-with-adhesive (And I've been using the same roll for something like 15 years; it still seems the same). Insulate the metal surfaces with that rather than the decoder - that allows better cooling.

How about these, with a slice of 3mm ID / 4mm OD brass tube soldered on bring the outside up to size? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-turned-brass-loco-axle-bushes-bearings-mainframe-bushes-for-2mm-axles/113776789959?hash=item1a7da009c7:g:1vQAAOSwECNc~Ng1 The same place has 2mm shim washers: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24-turned-brass-loco-axle-spacing-shim-washers-for-2mm-dia-axles-0-25mm-thick/112005964022?hash=item1a141360f6:g:TG4AAOSwzgRWzEZY

For larger pieces, I just use a fine point (tip of a needle file, in fact) with the brass resting on a block of hardwood. I tap the file with the flat of a pair of pliers; dropping them from about 1 1/2" inches above gives a reasonable "rivet head". For more detailed work, things that would distort easily, I've a bit of flat steel bracket that I've put a couple of tiny recesses in with a small drill bit, and put lines opposite so I know where they are. Using that underneath and the same file tip etc. works very well, as long as you get it over the recess... Another bit of bracket nearby and some clamps works for tiny angle strips. See the photo. Another method (I think I invented) is, where the item is symmetrical other than the rivets, leave the recesses outward and place a solder ball in each as you apply the primer coat of paint. That gives a perfect "dome" head. You can get solder balls in multiple sizes on ebay, packs of typically 25000 for less than £5.00

The application for the power is very relevant! With the mention of the Gaugemaster transformer, I was guessing it was for something like an AC loco controller. If it is actually for a small motor such as a synchronous type, we have some modules we produced specifically for that job; we designed them to run a small AC only pump motor in a piece of 12V DC powered equipment. If that's what is needed, I should be able to sort one out. The output is actually at about 49Hz due to the resonator used, but that's near enough for most 50Hz stuff other than clocks..

The PRMRP Deltic (and other kits of theirs with similar bogies) use chain drive between axles and there are builds of those on here - I've used one as reference for my build, but naturally I cannot find that now I'm looking for it... There is a PRMRP Class 50 here, by Hull Paragon, which he's done in an alternate way with timing belt rather than chain: This is one from my Deltic, with the original chain drive kit fitted. I've also added plunger pickups & need to drill extra holes to route the wires for those, but I'm leaving that until I get the bogie to body attachment sorted.

To be blunt, there is not a cat in hells chance that the board in that link can give 500W output. That needs around 50 Amps input at 12V and the PCB tracks are nothing like big enough to handle that level of current. It may manage 100W... It's also not a sine wave and only really good for devices with switched mode power supplies, where the AC just goes straight in to a rectifier. You can get decent quality 12V to 240V inverters relatively cheaply in the UK, from such as Amazon or even Halfords - use one of those plus a normal transformer to step it back down to 18V; not as efficient as a single unit could be, but functional and reliable! Edit - just spotted the frequency if the banggood unit, 20KHz. I'd not risk connecting that to anything - it would be putting significant power through any input noise filtering components and it's high enough to cause problems with power rectifiers intended for 50/60Hz use; most are not "fast recovery" and will try to pass significant current spikes with a square wave at 20KHz.

I've just got a batch of these to use for compact stay-alives. 0.47F at 6V so three in series give 16V with some tolerance and roughly 150,000uF Each one is two 6mm diameter caps held together with heatshrink sleeve, 14mm long. https://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/avx-corporation/SCMQ14H474PRBB0/478-11305-ND/7595421 The ones in that series are specifically rated for high current use, unlike most of the supercaps on ebay; 0.59A for that exact one, plenty for a small loco that's already moving. If you can fit the three in different locations that's fine as long as you series them up. Add eg. a 1K resistor across each to keep the voltage equally divided, then use the diode + resistor with 15 or 16V zener as Nigel says.

I've had another dig through my small screws collection and found some M2s that will fit the coupling gearbox. Opening the pilot holes out with a 1.5mm and giving that a slight wobble allows them to screw in to the plastic. The two parts fit together with M4 taptites, no mods needed. The assembled gadget:

Hi, I wanted a height gauge for setting up Kadee couplers & I though the actual kadee metal block gauge was a bit overpriced - so I did a 3D design that functionally does the same thing. The .stl files are linked at the end of this post. The main body is made to be a sloppy fit in the track side-to-side so it should work on curves as well as straight. The top surface is set to be 0.781" above the rail top, as per Kadee specifications for their O Gauge couplers. On my printer they come out within a thou or so of that. The top bar attaches to the body with two M4 screws and has 1mm pilot positions for attaching the gearbox/coupler. There do not seem to be any published dimensions for the gearbox hole spacing, so they were set by eye and verynears... They do appear to be spot on centres when see through a gearbox, though they look off in a photo due to parallax. The top part could equally be glued to the body, as long as it's tightly clamped until set to ensure it's flat down. I cannot assemble a coupling to it just yet as I discovered I do not have any suitable screws; 8BA are the same 0.086" diameter as the #2 UNCs Kadee specify so I've ordered some of those. Hope it's of use! RJ. Coupler_gauge.stl Coupler_gauge_top.stl

They are probably Bachmann part number 81201-BRUSH https://estore.bachmanntrains.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=10626 I can't find anyone with them in stock, though.

I've not used the Digitrax ones, but I have used the Uhlenbrock intellisound 4 susi-connected sound modules in a couple of locos I originally fitted non-sound Lenz Gold decoders in. Those do work extremely well and are fully programmable; you can generally get them either programmed with one of Uhlenbrocks library sound files (here https://www.uhlenbrock.de/de_DE/service/download/sounds/loksound/ ) or you can get the programmer and build your own, as with ESU sound decoders. Edit - The exact ones I used were the 32500 - example: https://www.dcctrainautomation.co.uk/uhlenbrock-32500-intellisound-4-module-empty.html I got mine from a German supplier on ebay.

Note that copper literally dissolves in molten solder, which is why most electronics bits are iron-plated. As melmerby says, they erode quickly once the plating has perforated - but from the inside, with the copper dissolving away and leaving an empty iron shell. I use an Antex TCS 50W temperature controlled iron for both large quantities of electronics work and soldering brass up to moderate sizes. Also all white metal work with low melting point solder and 6% phosphoric acid solution flux. The temperature scale is worn off the iron as it's around 20 year old, but visibly it's around 2/3 max. (It's a self contained iron with the temperature control in the handle). I've not noticed any difference in bit life since I started using it with other flux, compared to normal cored solder; they last something like a year with regular use. I do keep it in a stand with a damp sponge and it is frequently wiped clean and re-tinned. For electronics or general brass work, you can use "Savbit" type solder which contains somewhere around 1% copper. That reduces or stops copper "leeching" from the iron bit, if any copper is exposed. https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0554951/ I also always use leaded solder as it flows much better than lead-free types. Leaded solder is only banned in consumer goods, not industrial, research, prototyping or DiY etc.

I got a Lionel "Disney" set three or four years ago, as my young nephew wanted a train around the christmas tree after seeing the idea on TV. It was of course immediately converted to DCC + sound & lights etc. and I also picked up a couple of mixed batches including track, wagons and GP7/GP9 locos, one of which is also converted to DCC with lights and sound. The "can motor" ones are very simple to convert, the wound field ones slightly more complex but still fairly easy.

DJ Parkins "Main Line Diesel Locomotive Fittings Set" includes a number of parts for snow ploughs, I don't know if they are near enough what you need to be adaptable? See the brass etch sheet in the kit. https://www.djparkins.com/product.php?productid=18234 I got it for other parts, I just remember seeing the plough components in the documentation that comes with it.

Just search "Sound recorder module" on ebay - example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ISD1820-Sound-Voice-Recording-Playback-Module-Arduino-PI-0-5W-Loudspeaker-UK/312517762051 Full data sheet for a generic module using the same IC, here: https://www.allelectronics.com/mas_assets/media/allelectronics2018/spec/ME-63.pdf You can easily wire remote triggers across the "play" buttons, though you may then need to add a resistor (10k?) from the play input to the circuit ground, to prevent false triggering.