EasternO

6 hours ago, Keith Addenbrooke said:

 

As you say - a classic: simple, straightforward and achievable.  Just one quick comment if I may: a single slip would be more likely than a double slip - I don’t think the upper turn back route through the double slip would ever get used?  Keith.

You are almost certainly correct, I bought all the track in a bundle a while ago so it's what I have for the moment. I did have a whole loft to play with but now it's just a 3m length. It's probably the most exciting plan I can manage with only 30cm approx width to play with.

12 hours ago, monkeysarefun said:

 

Thanks for that. I'm one of the crowdfunders on the UltraPrint 12k. It looks like it uses the Saturn 12k as a base, with an intergrated top end UI and the resin pump from Creality. It should perform really well, as long as all the hardware has been integrated properly.

41 minutes ago, monkeysarefun said:

Is it the Elegoo  or the Anycubic?  I have them both -  one is definitely brilliant, the other one definitely not!

It's neither of those.

Out of interest, which one is the better one and why? This will be my first 3D printer of any type.

I'm buying a resin printer in January. It's 12k with a fairly big build plate. If you need help printing big parts next year I'd be happy to help out.

How about a J15 or E4?

I've settled on a classic. I have all of the track and half of the running stock.

It's made from two 1100 boards and one 700 board with traverser. After Christmas I'll order the centre board, probably from Grainge & Hodder.

3 hours ago, KingEdwardII said:

Some of the later Bachmann DMUs like the 117 come ready through-wired and so only require a single decoder for the whole set.

 

Yours, Mike.

Thanks. I have a few 105s and a Derby Lightweight. I'm looking for another Lightweight and a couple 101s if anyone knows of any at a decent price.

Thank you all, really good info. I don't know anything much about DCC other than what I've read and managed to understand.

I'm not into sound just yet but I may be in the future. For now I'm looking for the refinement of DCC control and incorporating that into JRMI or similar. I've got 4 Bachmann DMUs but I'm looking for a couple more, so at least 6 decoders eventually. I'll probably have a pop at the Zimo MX600R as that seems to be highly recommended.

29 minutes ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

I can vouch for the Lenz Standard or Zimo MX600R as suitable in classes 105 and 108 for refined operation. ( I prefer the Lenz for the cost saving, still circa £20, reserving the Zimos for any mechanism that needs some taming; but buy and fit the proven decoders that are available when required (due to present supply limitations)  later reallocate as required. The mechanisms in these DMU's are inherently an easy drive.

 

Can you feel a 'but' coming along? Good looking and sweet running these models may be, but the internal layout to accomodate the decoder appears to have been given to the apprentice; and a decoder per car, what is this, the DCC decoder manufacturer benefit programme?

 

I now through wire modified sets so all wheel pick up is available to just one decoder per 4 car set, located in the single powered car in the set. (When the 105 came out I determined that a single power car would haul 8 Bach BR mk1s on the steepest layout gradient, quite amusing for what was a hideously underpowered unit in reality.)

Equally fabulous. What you've suggested about through wiring is what I was thinking too. The wiring diagram seems to suggest that a second decoder is not absolutely required, just easier. Thanks.

1 hour ago, Nigelcliffe said:

 

If you want the best control, then it costs more than the prices you indicated.   So, depends how much you'll compromise.  

 

Possibly best:  Zimo, ESU, maybe Lenz.  Above £30, often nearer £40.      A bit cheaper:  Train-o-matic (odd name, but pretty good for the price), perhaps £22-£25.   Then the rest with a long tail of decreasing quality of performance.   

 

Many people seem happy with the cheaper (and poorer performing) decoders, so they do work.   But equally, I've known people chuck out those poor performers once they've experienced better (pay twice....  then get decent performance ?   That doesn't seem sensible to me! ).  

 

 

An 8-pin decoder plug supports three functions (lights), plus motor control,  any "fourth function" will be a wire to connect.   

 

 

 

- Nigel     

 

Fabulous, thank you very much.

Is the fourth function a simple on-off type of switch or variable voltage or programmable? I can't think of a use for a 4th function on a DMU yet, but it's good to know.

2 hours ago, WIMorrison said:

Look at the Zimo range -available from lots fo suppliers

Thanks. I looked but nothing I looked at answered any of my questions. I'll call a DCC specialist in the morning.

I have a number of Bachmann DMUs with 8 pin sockets. I'd like to convert all of these to DCC (not sound) and to standardise one type and brand of decoder.

From what I've read so far I will have 4 functions, although I don't know what these functions are. I would assume that two functions would be forward and reverse lighting and perhaps another one being interior lighting?

As I'm primarily interested in motor control for smooth acceleration and slow running, can I have a couple recommendations for economically priced decoders please. If anyone is aware of any problems I may encounter converting them I'd be grateful for the heads up.

I have been looking on ebay and have found listings for LaisDCC decoders quite cheap at around £12, and Rails Connect for about £20.

Thanks in advance

I don't mind too much if there are one or two little problems with it, or if it has a box. As long as I can repair it or buy spare parts.

I have a budget of approx £100

I love this thread. Have you have any problems with running because of lack of mass because of the plasticard construction?

I'm no expert on this particular class but it looks to me that the original version matches photos better than the remake. You've got a nice little layout there. I was hoping to build something in my loft last year but I've moved into a flat. I do have 3 metres going spare though!

I emailed Steve last week as I bought a some parts of a very small Ruston diesel and couldn't work out how to put one of them together so I hoped he had an instruction manual. He told me that he does legally own the tool sets and the reproduction rights so it will indeed be interesting what's going to happen from any potential legal wrangles.

I shall continue to watch your thread. It's been fun for the few months I've been following.

Cheers, John

I have heard there are imminent legal proceedings regarding the Class 15 model. I occasionally email the bloke who started the Little Loco Company as I bought a few things from him a few years ago. There are definite detail differences between the models and I wonder if there are differences inside too?

On 14/09/2023 at 13:48, DCB said:

Starting a new thread would be a good idea.  The loft layout thread was interesting  and  never really reached a resolution.  Whether or not there is any scope for automating a shunting plank is debatable,

I was getting quite excited about the automated loft layout. I had the space and the budget. Unfortunately the situation has changed in every respect. I'm still thinking about what I can do on a limited budget, and I'm still looking for any bargains on ebay. I'm thinking a double-slip is now essential for successful train movements

The layout will be built in my bedroom, but right now that room is full of boxes. Before I can do anything I have to unpack and sort stuff out to clear space for the baseboard. I'm looking at incorporating some sort of cassette system on one spur to make it more usable as a 'normal' layout if the need arises.

It will essentially be a puzzle for the computer to solve using rules. For example, each spur will be at least 4 coaches long to allow for two 2-car DMUs or one 4-car. I plan on at least five spurs, which will be wholly or part occupied. The computer will choose a formation and destination and then figure out how to move it there, clearing the space if the destination is occupied and freeing the train if it is trapped.

I'm not worried about sound, but DCC is essential, and I'd like to have a softly illuminated layout so I can run it in the evening while I'm working on other things. Obviously it's not going to be built over a weekend.

13 hours ago, ITG said:

It’s a good idea to learn automation on a simple layout. I did similar to learn iTrain. My layout was a simple oval, with a passing loop and a couple of sidings. Now I’m building a larger layout in a dedicated room (5m x 2.3m).

My only suggestion re your track plan would be for a run round loop if it can be fitted in. It would add operational interest and a dimension to your automation trials.

Ian

I think you found what I thought was missing from these long spurs. I played around putting a runaround on different spurs and I think I've found the best one. What do you think?

13 hours ago, Ray H said:

With the exception of the top (in the plan) left track, which I had as a two road sector plate, the plan mimics my first O gauge layout in a similar space. See my Puzzel Yard thread.

 

I worked it as a (very) large shunting puzzle with around 20 wagons and 2 locos - remember that you'll need two as well.

 

It kept me amused for hours (and hours). Its only downside was that I couldn't leave it erected all the time - the afore mentioned thread will show why.

Thanks Ray, I read through your thread. Very interesting. I started in O but thought I didn't have space. I have almost the same space as you did. I've still got some of my kits so maybe I'll build two layouts for the same shelf eventually.

I downloaded Anyrail to see what I could come up with using the track already I own. This is the best I could do. It's not quite doing it for me but the positive is that all the points are on the centre board. I plan on making 3x 1m boards or buying some floating shelving.

The basic aim is still the same, to learn automation. Each length of track will be electrically split into two sections and each point. I'll eventually use a spare Raspberry Pi I have to shuffle trains from one siding to another.

I would be very happy indeed if somebody could come up with a better design or more interesting design. I may be able to stretch to one more point, or if I could find one cheap enough, a double slip.

A lot of things have happened since my last post. I have moved into a flat so I don't have a loft anymore. I'll probably start a new post but I have a 3m length and up to 35cm depth. I'm also on a much more restricted budget so I'm looking to use the items I have already, which are Peco SL86X curved right hand, SL87X curved left hand and SL98X large Y points plus several lengths of flexi.

On 20/07/2023 at 22:35, airnimal said:

Silly me I forgot the screw couplings  !

That's another £7.00 taking the total to £36.45.  The main reason I mention my cost was the realisation that the cost of of a recent RTR 4mm wagon was nearly the same as my 7mm build. I found this unbelievable but then I don't follow 4mm modelling very much.  

 

I have replaced the bottom link on the screw couplings with a shorter one as the longer one was touching the ground. 

 

Now the talk in other threads regarding the cost in Deltic,s  is I presume just banter. Or I have missed something  ?

Great thread, I love watching it.

However, you've only listed the cost of parts in your comparison. The true, fair price would be £36.45 + (hourly rate x hours spent). That would make your model considerably more expensive than an RTR equivalent model. The same would apply for any scale, and would make smaller scales less viable comparisons of value because the time spent of them is similar.

Regardless, this thread remains one of my favourites on RMWeb.

Do you work off photographs or do you obtain the engineering drawings?

4 hours ago, david.hill64 said:

Few people these days would go to the trouble of producing a brass or metal master from which to make moulds for whitemetal or pewter. The cheapest route is to produce the master by 3D printing and then use that to produce the moulds. The same method can be used for producing lost wax casting moulds for brass/nickel silver but here you have to use low ash resins. You don't need to worry about shrinkage of whitemetal but should allow 3% for brass.

 

All the casters I know use vulcanised moulds as the cold cured ones have insufficient life. You can get good surface detail representing hinges etc.

 

I have just spent £125 on a master for a loco backhead produced by 3D printing. if I had paid a commercial rate to have a master produced by traditional machining processes it would have cost at least 10 times that much.

Thanks David, that's very interesting and exactly the sort of information I was after.

Did the £125 include CAD or was it just the print? I can design in 2D fine, but not so much 3D.

Thanks above, but to clarify:

I'd like to build brass patterns of wagon parts to cast (RTV) in pewter or another 'white metal'.

I won't be casting whole wagons in one piece, but parts of wagons to solder or fix together some other way.

Apologies for the confusion in the way I worded my question.

What I've learned so far, which is critical before you start making patterns, is that most cast metal materials can shrink once cooled, typically by around 3% but can be more or less than this. So, to start the ball rolling on instructionals, I would have to decide which material I would like to cast my wagons from so I know how much larger I would have to make them to account for shrinkage. This is critical.

Second, do I make a whole wagon of parts or, if the wagon is symmetrical, do I just make an end and a side and make two castings of each?

There are many suppliers of parts, but would it be best to produce my own in case one of the suppliers goes out of business? I'm thinking about the obvious things like wheels, buffers, couplings, etc.

Also, what sort of fidelity is achievable with RTV or any other casting process? For example, could I include intricate hinges or pin chains into my patterns or are these better added when building the model?

It's these sorts of questions I'd like answered, so seeing someone do it, or reading about it, would give me a better understanding of the process.

Thanks