peterm1

Loco end was looking OK as well, so I might bite the bullet and re wire the whole thing with the loco & tender permanently coupled. I've tested the decoder on my MXTAPS and it behaves perfectly.

Thanks for that. I've copied it over. Fingers crossed. I've had the tender socket apart and found that it looks OK on the inside. Now I'll have to take a deep breath and have a look at the loco end.

I couldn't decide where to put this, so mods please move it if need be. I have the D class and have fitted it with a Zimo sound decoder.Just lately the sound cuts out after a second or two of turning it on. I've found that if I waggle (for want of a better word) the loco and tender, then the sound comes on. In reverse it stays on but forwards it cuts out. I'm sure it must be the connection or wiring, but wondered if anyone else has had this problem and how they fixed it. I have cleaned the connection surfaces, top and bottom of the plug and socket, but this made no difference. The loco doesn't stop, only the sound.

Yes that is superb weathering. What shame we're so far away. I'm on Bribie Island.

It might be worth trying F19 as this can be for muting the sound.

I've just stumbled across your post and what a good one it is. I've book marked it so that I can go through the whole lot... eventually. Thanks for all the videos.

I've had dealings with these connectors too. Horrible things to try and get right. As Charlie says, you're better off hard wiring them.

The wonders of technockolology as Arfur would have said.

Maybe it's the luck of the draw, although it shouldn't be. I posted last October that mine runs well with it's Ultrascale wheels, and it still does. In another story, I've had 3 of the 4 wheels slip on the axles of a Dapol B4. I have a NWSL quartering jig and used it along with Loctite 640 to refit said wheels. If you're up for it, it might be worth getting hold of the jig.

Forgot to mention that if you use CV57 to reduce the top speed by lowering the voltage, rather than using CV5, it's in tenths of a second, so 90 = 9 volts and so on.

I've given you all the info' you need to get a loco running well, if you use that info. You'll learn as you go on. The mid range power (speed curve) is controlled by CV6. Try setting this at a third of CV5 and then at 2 thirds of the same and see the difference. Most loco's don't have a linear setting, but if you prefer, then set CV6 at half the value of CV5

That is a fantastic scene.

I've done many resets on Zimo decoders with Paul's sounds on and they've never missed a beat.

CV's 3 & 4 are acc and dec respectively. Read them and make note of their settings and then try lowering their values. You can also use CV57 to reduce the top voltage to the motor, rather than using CV5. This keeps all the speed steps as they were. BTW, are you using 128 speed steps? This gives finer control than 28. CV6 will determine the speed curve. Adjust it to suit the way you want the loco to accelerate. Hope this helps.

I know it might sound obvious, but have you tried a reset, CV8 to 8?