Slanjonok

Great job! Do you intend to upload them back as remix?

Welcome to the wonderful world of 3D printing! However I'm amazed that the printing worked at all. In general, flat surfaces parallel to the print plate or tank bottom should be avoided as they will put a lot of tension on the object each time the print is removed from the FEP film. Additionally in your case, the car is printed on the film like a suction cup. You need a lot of extra support and over curing to avoid loss of the print. The theory says that you should tilt the wagon at an angle of 30-45 degrees in both the longitudinal and transverse directions. Then you need less support and only build up the floor and side walls with minimum contact to the FEP in each layer.

For clear resin I would recommend ResinOne G217. It’s expensive, but you won’t use it for so many parts. I tried other ones before. Beside a lot of printing issues, I have noticed that the resin turns yellowish during final curing. There are different recommendations to redo this by further treatment, but I just did not use these resins further for glazing. I don’t have any issues with a-m one. Generally, all clear resin become like frosted glass after washing. Again, there are different recommendation how to solve that, but my way is to paint the parts with transparent acryl paint. However, there are cases where the frosted glass comes handy – street lanterns for example, or if the motor is arranged just behind glazing.

Hi, Of course the resin printer gives in general better quality (I uase an Elegoo Mars 2P and newly a Mars 4), but the handling of the Bambu (I have for some month now) is much easier and with a .2mm-nozzle the quality is quite good. Here some examples: test prints of LNER-container in 4 and 2mm with resin, 0.4mm nozzle (only OO-scale) and 0.2mm nozzle, a barge and a lorry. And there are models, taht can't be printed with SLA-printers at all - especially functional models, like the roller gate.

@njee20 Many thanks, I will creat a test print with different bearings to test it out.

Thanks a lot! Than I have to wait, if I don't find this info anywhere else. @melmerby This picture is already in use - Thanks a lot!

Thanks for reply! What resin does you use?

Thanks for reply. Do you have a picture and a source for better understanding? Would be great!

Thanks for asking. Yes the axle geometry is different, as is the geometry of the wagon. I changed the wheels by that reason as themetal ones fit better to the this wagon (D5.2x14.0mm). But in respect to the geometry at the bearing and how the axle sits in everything is similar. I checked this twice in CAD-program. I adjusted already the bearings, compared to the OO-wagon, means I widened it by somewhat 0.5mm. Might be the metal wheels are harder and therefore are able to create more abrasion, then the plastic ones - just thinking.

Would be great. Of course, if it is not accessible, then it's fate. Many thanks in advance for trying! Found this side great for the Scammell-ones, that are well covered by models at least in 2mm. To my knowledge the Karrier Cob is not covered at all. But anyhow thanks!

Dear friends of 3D printing in 2mm, I'm currently trying to adapt an OO wagon for N gauge. Unfortunately, the axles don't move smoothly enough. I used plastic axles from PECO on my railway crane. That wasn't great either, but smooth enough. This time I have to install metal axles because they fit best geometrically. I also checked everything geometrically and made several test prints, so everything should be OK in this respect. I would have expected that metal axles should even work better with the resin axle bearings, but the opposite is the case. They only rotate with remarkable resistance. The resin is the same as for the rail crane - SUNLU standard transparent blue. Does somebody have any idea? How do you make your axle bearings? And yes, brass sleeves would be nicest, but they don't fit geometrically into this wagon. Thank you in advance for your hints! Kind regards, Sascha

Hi, My name is Sascha and I design kits for railway models, which are freely download-able for everyone having a 3D-printer: https://www.printables.com/de/@Slanjonok/collections/654987 One of the models I’m currently working on is the Karrier Cob, being ones used by all Big4-railways. During the modelling process I found insufficient information/pictures about the inside of the cabin, which would be visible, due to the missing cabin doors. Here starts my request for support: I know that an example of this mechanical horse is on display at National Railway Museum York: https://www.google.com/maps/place/National+Railway+Museum/@53.9605467,-1.096366,3a,75y,90t/data=!3m8!1e2!3m6!1sAF1QipOwRUWmznCJntpO88uQZ0HqbZOXGKsLua8cSXZY!2e10!3e12!6shttps:%2F%2Flh5.googleusercontent.com%2Fp%2FAF1QipOwRUWmznCJntpO88uQZ0HqbZOXGKsLua8cSXZY%3Dw203-h152-k-no!7i4032!8i3024!4m18!1m7!3m6!1s0x48793105fbb3dfb9:0xd6bb9be9978a4331!2sNational+Railway+Museum!8m2!3d53.9605467!4d-1.096366!16zL20vMDE5Z2Zy!3m9!1s0x48793105fbb3dfb9:0xd6bb9be9978a4331!8m2!3d53.9605467!4d-1.096366!10e5!14m1!1BCgIgAQ!15sCiRyYWlsd2F5IG11c2V1bSB5b3JrIHBpY3R1cmVzIGthcnJpZXKSAQtyYWlsX211c2V1beABAA!16zL20vMDE5Z2Zy?hl=de&entry=ttu Living in Germany it’s not so easy to visit the museum myself. So, my hope is someone here in the forum may have pictures of this lorry, especially of the inside part of the cabin or is anyway visiting the museum soon and willing to make such photos to share with me. Many thanks in advance for you help. Sascha

Decals for the BM/BR-containers can be found here: https://www.printables.com/model/407423-oit-lms-brbm-type-containers-1-148 Decals for the other containers are in work.