D 844

Yes, that's very convincing, I also like the third rail setup.

You are quite right about a realistic finish, I had thought about it while doing it but with normal light it does appear to look reasonable when it's running. I think it's the Drummond 700 that really needs toning down, it's more visible than on the M7, thats my next job.

It is very good and can be improved by adding inside valvegear, it shares the same type as a Drummond 700, Lendons of Cardiff will supply the chassis which includes gears, pipework, sandpipes and valvegear at £1.49 plus postage, code X6937. the valvegear is plastic and unclips, to make it to fit into the M7 cut of the front and rear and file the base flat and slot it in, the rocker bar should lineup with the steps.

It's worth checking the front bogie bracket for clearance, if it's too low it can take weight of front drivers. My first N15 would pull anything but my second and third didn't, after checking the brackets it was clearly in need of adjustment. The easiest way is just press on the chimney, if no dip, that your answer. I had the same problem on my first S15, the second one was fine but didn't haul as much as the N15 so weight was added and it now pull sixteen coaches, well worth it.

Hornby S15 follow up, I have added some weight without spoiling the balance. using shaped lead, one in the cab, two at the back of the boiler and one under both flywheels, there is space for more but as it is now it hauls 16 coaches whereas before it was just managing 12. The layout in part is 2nd radius curves and it has no problems with that, well worth doing it

I have three S15s, they are trouble free and they are lighter weight than the N15s. Well balanced but for heavy freight need some weight in the right place, perhaps over the motor rather than fill the smokebox. I bought my last one without the tender as I wanted to couple to a Schools class tender but the loco plug had to go in the wrong way round so I had to swop round the tender pickups to make it work, very fiddly unless someone has a better idea?

Bachmann Class 43 cab interior. It can be improved by cutting the floor out, just leave the seats and the front frame, the chassis block needs thin card or good paper to cover the wire channels, then add seat bases level to the bottom of the frame. It clips back in fine and looks better and a lot better when cab lights are on.

This pic is the Class 43 on the Mainline chassis, I still think Mainline wheels are the best, maybe the best of both worlds, as such no need to fiddle with cab steps and the bogie frames could altered, the new ones won't swap easily

I didn't know about d811's emblem but as for two hole wheel sets, most early builds were all like that and then they became more widespread during overhauls, even on to Class 43's. D821 now has one on each bogie. Here is D824

The steps are one piece with a loop behind the valence and glued there so the buffers don't get strained. I also liked doing the two hole wheel set on D824 as it always had at least one, just a little filler and paint job.

Just finished cab mods on my third Class 42 and to me look a lot better, it takes about one hour per loco and the cost is nothing, also done seats from scrap coach interior.

On the first three Warships the cab roof was different too, on some angles hard to spot but it was shaped like the main roof almost to the front of the cab. There is a useful shot on Flickr, just tap in D801 CJ 1966.

When should we be expecting the new Class 42 Warship, it seems a long wait. The Class 43 shell does have minor mould seems near the roof so they are prepared for different roof details. Perhaps running quality needs a re-think, certainly the gearing and pickups. Interesting on Ebay recently, some trusty older Class 42s have been going for higher prices than Class 43s. The new Class 42 will have to be spot-on to be a winner for Bachmann and us.