Andacami

Whilst the OP seems to be in the process of resolving the issue and, whilst it's not an acceptable fix in this case, I'm curious, would an add on power booster resolve the technical issue? Just thinking of my own set up and as I expand could hit this issue ( I'll be checking actual voltages today rather than relying on what's printed on the kit/in the manual).

I somehow ended up with two of these, hence now selling this as surplus to requirements. It is BNIB with an unopened, complete details pack and full instructions. 21 PIN DCC ready. Tracked postage included. £100.00

Works for me too, thanks. ESU Loksound 5 with SWD Sounds. F17 for my interior coach lights on/off (Aux3). F13: Cab1 lights on/off, F14: Cab2 lights on/off, F19: dim/brighten all lights

Ah, it may be this:

Thread resurrection, I know. Does anyone know what the cure is for this problem? All lights work including dimming on an ESU Locksound v5 with SWD Sounds, however, as others are reporting I can't turn off the interior coach lights unless I use the manual switch. A cut on a track on the PCB sorts it is what I'm hearing but which track and which PCB...?

UPDATE: Seems the model and its factory-fit decoder I have is not sound capable at all (some of you knew this of course). So I need a Zimmo or ESU Loksound. Again, what are folks' experiences before I buy...?

Spoken with Dapol this morning, here are the manuals: New Class 121_122 Combo.pdfDAPOL_0_Gauge_C121_user_guide_v1.0.pdf

Save starting a new thread on the same topic; what is today's best Sound Decoder for the Dapol Class 121/122 (4D-015-010D)? Or, do I even need one...? And yes, aware that the OP is just over four years old 😉 The new-to-me unit I have has the Dapol Imperium decoder (21pin MTC) which allows basic motor control and all of the coach, cab and driving lighting - it seems to do this well enough and with the assumption that standards have been adhered to, changing the Acc and dEc (Gaugemaster Prodigy) CVs have the desired effect; there is, of course, no detailed user manual that I can find. On the one-pager that came with, there is a suggestion that soldering a speaker (THIS?) to (the near impossible to solder to) LS- and LS+ joints is possible. So, is it as simple as grabbing a £10 speaker and doing as the paperwork suggests? if so, why no instructions as to how to initiate sound(s) also, normal sound functions are light functions currently so one assumes a level of function key reprogramming would be required... Alternatively, it could be that the decoder just outputs basic sounds that cannot be controlled and therefore as alluded to above a new ESU LokSound and megabasss is the way to go. Before I splash out £10 or £130, I'd be grateful for folks' experiences, please. It's a great model and with proper sounds and a little weathering, it's looking like the star of the show on my (to be built) layout. Cheers!

On hols! I'll log out and back in and see, thx so much for looking whilst you are supposed to be relaxing 😌

Now that I have acquired one, what are the DCC functions and settings, can't find anything on-line thus far. The one sheet of paper suggests a speaker can be added, I added one as per instructions but there is no sound. Perhaps I need to move up from what appears to be the standard Dapol Imperium decoder offering...?

@AY Mod still ads everywhere for me, certainly on Andriod. Please fix...

Found one.

Same for me. Following steps 1 to 4 no longer relevant as they don't work, options don't exist. Please can you sort my account, assuming I've done everything right my end. Thanks

Hi All, I'm looking for a nice DCC sound-fitted Class 121/122 Bubble car. Era 7 BR, so blue or blue-grey I guess. Thanks.

If struggling, maybe your local modelling club can help; I'd be happy to, but you are a long way from North London I'm afraid. I think as said, once rewired with consideration to the shorting issues inherent, it'll be fine 👍

Hi, Does anyone know what the PC USB to Prodigy RJ45 cable actually consists of? I'm curious but at around £70 delivered, I'm not that curious but tempted, if it's "just" cabling and perhaps the odd resistor/cap, to make one myself. Of course, if this was publically available I might have already found it by now and so would MRC/Gaugemaster and take a dim view and rightly so. Anyway, no harm in asking... 🤫 Thanks

Hi, I've had a quick search and looked at the manual and learned that the Prodigy is limited in its functions ability to 20 as opposed to the "squared" version and onwards which can do 28. I have the non-quared version so stuck at 20. I'm on the lookout for a squared version, preferably wireless if anyone has something...? I believe I have this right and I'll need to move off the Prodogy to the squared or something else for more functions...? The second thing is reading/programming CVs - this is where my search skills have failed me thus far in that I don't know what the limit is or if it's limitless (within the bounds of the standard). There is the option to type three digits but as there is limited display feedback, I've no idea if anything is happening. Highest value I have read/changed is CV063 for volume. Can anyone enlighten me, please? Thank you 👍

A photo of the placement of the decoder would be helpful. I am unfamiliar with the model, but on anything where I have seen this behaviour, it's a short with the decoder pressing against something or the model's PCB pressing against something when the body is on. It only takes a small thing to upset a decoder, less so in pure DC mode. Again, photos would help 😉

I wonder if there is any more news? A few quick searches seem to bring them up as pre-order still; does anyone know why (or just normal delays)...?

Thanks @roythebus1 that's the way I'll go 👍

I've gone 100% destructive and removed the old couplings mounts. Filed smooth yo the level.of the base, it seems to be a good fit.

Thanks very much 😊

Hi, First question (yes, already). Does anyone have any guidance on how to convert these old Bachmann vans to Kadee. Not a straight swap, so I'm keen to know what I need to buy or how to mod before splashing out. I'm thinking of just cutting the lugs that support the old couplings flush and going from there, if still too low, then venture into purchasing a different Kadee. I'll make do with what I have here Kadee wise as far as length goes but I will at some stage need something shorter - it's all fun and games just now. Thank you.

Hi All, I'm Andy, I'm in North London / Herts borders and starting (re-starting) railway modelling in OO Gauge. I've amassed some second-hand stock, locos, track and scenics (perhaps even from you...?) and currently track and layout planning - nothing concrete yet and, I've yet to decide if a build in the loft or a short 6 x 2 is the way to go... I'd like a TMD and a good run to a branch line terminus for the DMU and short local service, so perhaps the loft is the place to go (it is however tiny and filthy at the moment). I've been to a few shows and will attend AliPali in March for further inspiration - I have to say, following the Realistic Thread, I'm blown away by the level of skill and available products these days. Broadly Era 7 BR Blue as that what I remember but I'll run anything that takes my fancy from around the period with maybe an occasional "preserved special". Anyway, here are a few pics of my stock on the test and programming track. Excuse the crudeness of it all, it's just an assembled collection of "stuff" and something to play trains with while I get used to DCC, wiring, soldering, etc. and the planning completed. Also shown, one small diorama with my fantastic DCC 08. Questions will, inevitably, follow...