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RAY NORWOOD

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Everything posted by RAY NORWOOD

  1. Hi Ian. I had the same invites at Tolworth and only got a reply from Tonbridge. The extra bit of work you have done is looking great.
  2. Hi Ferdie. High levels cannot get hold some of the Machema motors but I can advise you to give them a ring and ask what you need. I put a very low gearing in this as I only use it for shunting as you can get a very slow speed and the motor is spinning very high.
  3. Looking good. Cannot wait to see at the shows.
  4. Thank you Dave. Will go on there website or give them a ring.
  5. I am looking for the axle boxes and springs for the tender.
  6. Hi Barclay. Yes I am very pleased the way it has turn out. I did have a few moment with building it but I got over that. Thank you for your response.
  7. Hi Richard. Yes I have made a start on the tender. but having a problem getting some of the white metal parts. so if you know were I can get hold of them?
  8. My finished scratch built M7. I have done quite a bit from the last time I posted on here. I sprayed Hallfords Gray ectch premier then a gloss black. Then the tranfers, I used Fox transfers they do them for a M7 but is this set they don't do the lining for the valance so I ordered them form Modelmasters, I have been waiting for the transfers for nearly a month from Modelmasters, poor Jim has not been to good and having having a operation on his eye as well, but it was worth the wait. The decoder is a Zimo Mx648 with a You Choos M7 sound, it comes with the Western House pump.on function 11 and it also comes on as a recycle but as I did not put the pump on I asked if he could turn recycle off. I fitted two small sugar cube speakers and a very small stay alive taped to the decoder and I tucked it into the boiler and I also fitted a Led in the firebox. I very much enjoyed building this and being it's my first scratch build. As I was waiting for the lining transfers I made a start on a Drumond 700 tender.
  9. Hi James. Sorry to hear you are going to sell Greenwood. I know what you mean about needing room, I sold Yard Shunter to make room for Feltham Road. Good luck with the 0 gauge layout.
  10. Richard and I will see you there. I'm taking Feltham Road.
  11. Hi Mick. Sorry I done recall your name, But I my know you face. I will pm you.
  12. The scratch build of the M7, I am now see the end of its build. I have got the bits I ordered from P D K yesterday, the boiler front and the tank filler lids, I did ask for the tank inspection plates but he had none in stock so I made them from headcode discs and used my pin punch to make the bolts heads around the edge, I then glue them in place. I intend to to put a sound decoder in her with a led for the Firebox flicker, so I drilled a hole in the Firebox doors to take the led but that was not in line with the hole in the bulkhead so I had to cut a Rabat in the back of the boiler front so I can run the cable up and through the hole in the bulkhead. Now it's time for the paint shop, I used Hallfords Gray etched premier. I wish to thank Richard Slate of Mudmagnet model's for 3D printing the sandbox.
  13. I did the same on my M7 roof, but I used 1mm L shape brass and 1mm T. That was a bit fiddly because of the size.
  14. Hi George. It's coming on very well mate just waiting for some parts from P D K. I have just posted a update on RMweb today.
  15. Thank you. I am hopping to put it on Feltham Road when ever the exhibitions can come back.
  16. Thank you for that. I very pleased with it, being it's my first attempt of scratching a locomotive.
  17. It's been some time since I put an update on this M7 Scratch built. Lots of small bits added. The roof I made from 010.00in brass, put through my rolling bars to get the shape of the roof and soldered 1mm x1mm L shape brass around the ege of the roof, then I used T shape brass across the centre of the roof. I also made it so it can be removed held in place by brass wire pushing against the sides to hold it in place. The injectors I made from copper electric wire, I had to sand paper the varnish off so I could solder into a brass tube. Then I held it in a vice so I can drill two holes into the brass tube and soldered two pieces of copper wire into the holes for the live steam pipe and the over flow pipe, there is a photo of this below. The pipe work will have to be cut to size to fit into place by solder. The tank stabilised pipe is from brass pipe and tubing soldered into place, there was a lot of solder used and filled to shape, then soldered under the cab and front end the is the where the water pipe goes for the injectors. The buffers are from Markits and the lamp irons are Marin Finnley. In just need the part I ordered from P.D.K such as the tank filler lids the tank inspection lids and the boiler front, and also the sandbox from Mudmagnet model's then I think it is ready for the paint shop. I am also looking at making a Drummond 700 class in which I have to thank Dave Taylor for give me the drawings and some photos.
  18. Well it's been along time ago putting an update on here. I made the splashers in the same way as the sides with 00.015in N/S, and the top of the splashers is made of 00.10in brass. The small splashes on the the side is from plastic card and the sand box lids is from cotton bud stem. The clack valves and from Markits. The smoke box door is white metal from Alan Gibson as with the Dome and the chimney we glue on with two part epoxy, the whistle is turned brass soldered on the two valves by the side of the whistle is the live steam for the injectors, I Made them from brass wire and very small nuts I had in my bits box. The steps is made from 00.015in N/S I made them in Bach's of two, I soldiered two pieces together I done two of these to make four steps, I mark them out and cut with a piercing saw then split them and the step from 00.010in brass soldered them on and then soldered them in place. I got Richard Slate (Mudmagnet models) 3D print me the two rear sand box's. I am now concentrating on the injectors.
  19. M7 Scratch Build update. I soldered the sides on that I made earlier. I then made up the back of the coal bunker, it's got that curl at the top, I made that by scoring the metal every 1mm from top down to approx 4mm, then I used a 3mm drill and the top of the metal in a vice and bend the metal to shape so it fits in the curve then soldered in place. Next step is the top of the tanks I cut them out of 0.015in N/S soldered the two together and filled to size I then split them up and soldered them in place. Next I made up the hand rails, I marked out the hand rails knobs and drilled the holes glued the knobs in place. The rail I used 0.40 N/S wire, I always have a job with the front of the hand rails to get the bends in the right place, thread two hand rails knobs that go to the front and thread the two sides into the side rail knobs, then glue the two rail knobs into the holes on the front of the smokebox. That's the game of play at the moment. T The two sides in place The back of the bunker in place and the tank tops. The hand rail in place The hole in the boiler at the front of the tanks is for the clack valves.
  20. Thank you. I have made a few mistakes on the way, but very pleased the way it turning out.
  21. Yes it's a kit from bits of nothing but sheets of N/S and Brass and marking out, cutting out the shaps soldering them together. Yes it's a different type of kit it called scratch building.
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