RAY NORWOOD

I am sure I haven't done this before Doilum. I have built a few brass kits, the Simon Bolton books have helped me.

Hi Michael. I have the GW models rolling bars. I just adjust the bars little at a time and let it roll off the roller at each end, roll it back on then a just it a little.

I have done a lot more since I last was on here. After getting the running plate done and valance, l started on the cab front and back made out of N/S 0.015in, I cut two pieces out to roughly the size I then soldered the two together, then used my marker pen and covered the one side, I then marked it out and the the windows, I used a piecing saw to cut the shape out and useing a smal drill for the windows and work up to a larger drill and finished of with a tapered broach the get to the right size and then slit the apart. Marked out the running plate for the front and back of the cab. I used 0.015in N/S for the boiler, and the boiler is 21mm diameter I had to work out the width to cut. I then used my rolling bars till the two ends meet then soldered together then made up two end bits for ethere ends of the boiler, on one end I drilled a hole and soldered a 8ba nut for a 8ba bolt to temporarily attach to the cab front. Then I cut a piece for the smokebox and wrap and soldered it around one end. I then used 0.010in brass for the top layer of the smokebox i punched a row of rivits down one end again wrapped in it around and soldered in place. I then made up a plate for the smokebox front that had to be shaped for the sandbox front. Next was the tank, cab and bunker sides in which I made as one. I cut two bits on 0.015in N/S soldered them together blackened one side then marked out the sides including the tank fronts. I cut to shape, I had to solder a bit of N/S to go at the inside bottom of the the door way on one side peace to strengthen the side at the door way as it was a bit to thin at the top. I then slit the two sides and soldered another bit of N/S at the bottom of the door way. I then mark the tank front and scored then bend to shape and cut out to round the boiler. The cab and front still soldered together waiting to be slit The cab back in place with the cab front to be soldered. The cab front and back in place The boiler temporarily in place with the bolt holding the cab end The first boiler band in place. The plate at the front in place. The second smokebox wrap in place with the rights down one side. The bogie arrangement with a spring at the bake. The pick ups Tat cab sides to be marked and cut. The two sides still together as one all cut to shape waiting to be split into two sides. The two sides ready to solder in place.

It's looking fantastic Rob. Keep up the good work.

Yes it's 0.022in and the valance 0.015in I have put the decimal point in the wrong place, sorry about that.

I have been working on the running plate. Made out of 00.22in nickel silver, I the cut the shape out from a sheet of N/S then used my maker pen to blacken one side to mark out the the cut out and drilled a hole on the inside he ilne of part to be cut out and I past the piersing saw blade through the hole, and cut that out. I then marked out the holes for attaching the body to the chassis and soldered a 8ba nuts over the holes. The buffer beam is also out of 00.22in N/S, drilled the holes for the buffers and the hole for the screw couplings. Then soldered then in place. Next is the valance. I cut two lengths x 5mm of 00.15in N/S and soldered then together then the black marking pen over the top and marked out the shape, then cut out with the pairsing saw then finish of with files. Then soldered then in place. The next job will be the cab ends.

It's been along time for an update on this build. I have made the compensation bar from brass and soldered on with 145 solder and added some other smal details. The compensation bars I made out of 00.15 brass, I cut two pieces a little bigger than I need, soldered the two together I then used a black felt on one side then I marked out the shape then I rough cut the shape with a piercing saw AND finished of with a file to the final shape, I split them apart and soldered the in place I then blacken the bogie and chassis then painted them in mat black. For attaching the bogie to the chassis I used a 8ba bolt soldered to the chassis with a brass tube sleeve over the bolt then a spring and a large washer on top of the spring, the bogie goes on top of the spring it slides up and down on the brass tube the a small washer and a nut The washer in the picture is the one that goes on top of the spring Here is the chassis an the bogie. The next two photos near completetion. I put the wheel on and the rods. Had to do a bit fetling on the rods to make it all run smoothly. I have ordered a High Levels motor and gearbox, waiting for them to come. That will be the next job then the bar to connect the bottom of the brake hangers, then the pick ups.

No they was all gone when I started at Feltham at 1963.

Hi Dave. That Z class is amazing, the rods are very much like the real thing. Keep up the good work.

Scratch Build M7. I have just finished the coupling rods. Earlier I had all the preparation. I marked out the rods and cut out the shape with a piercing saw then I used a file to finish of. I then used my soldering iron split the two rods. The bigger one was for the main frames, the small ones is for the rods. I did two lots as a precaution for going wrong. The finished rods.

Thank you for that Nigel. I am a member of the South Western circle not given it a thought of getting drawings from them. Thank you.

Update on the M7. I have cut out the main frame spacers from 00.22In nickel silver drilled holes in the centre for attaching the body and the is one for the trailing Bogie. I have soldered the spacers on one main frame. I then fitted the main frames into my chassis alignment jig with the rods at the end s of alignment rods. then solder the other frame to the spacers. Here is the frames assembled. Next is the trailing Bogie. I made out of 00.22in nickel silver, I cut two pieces to the size of the side frames. Soldered the to together and then covered one side with a marker pen, then marked out the axle holes then drilled them out with a small drill and gradually increased the sizes to a 2mm hole. I then measured and marked out the shape, then cut out with a peaseing saw, then tied up with a file. The spacer is from 00.22 N. S, I made it 20mm x 11mm and drilled a hole in the centre to take a 8ba bolt, I then used a peaseing saw to make that into a slot so the Bogie would slide side by side. Here is the Bogie asembled. I am very pleased how this is turning out so far.

Hi DGO. It's been a few day since you got the Simon Bolton book how do you find it.

Update on the M7 scratch-building. I have marked out the brake hangers and drilled the frames for the brass wire to hold the brake hangers. I also split the two main frames and used a brouch to open out the driveing wheel axie holes and soldered the brass bearings in please. Next is to make the chassis spacers out of 00.22in nickel silver.

Thats beginning to look fantastic.

Hi Jack. Beach Head is be restored at the Blue Bell Railway. I saw it in the shed last August. You have done a fantastic job on those locos.

Even got grass growing inside the shed LOL. Fantastic work Richard.

Hi Pete. I can see what you mean. I just thought it strange that they look very narrow. With the body screwed on top would give the chassis more strength. Thank you for that.

I have measured and marked out the chassis as to the drawing. But it do not look right to me there do not have the depth in it. But that as it as in the drawing so must be right. This the chassis I have cut out, the two side are still soldered together.

Hi Michael. Thank for your advice i started marking out the driving wheel axle and had drilled them out so have done it the other way round.

I have started on the chassis useing 00.22" nickel silver. I used a pair of dividers to measure the depth of the chassis then marked that measurement onto a sheet of nickel silver and then scribed that line then put nickel silver into a set of banding bar bend the sheet of nickel silver till it snaps then I measured the length and did the same with the bending bars till it snaps, I did the same for the other main frame. I then soldered them together. I cut out the bits for the coupling rods out of 00.22" nickel silver, but this time I did four of them and soldered them two together for the two coupling rods, I will mark the two crank pin on them when I do the two main frames. I blackened them all with a black marker pen so I can see all the markings. That it so far. I will post more as work progress.

Or put a spring between the Bogie frame to the loco chassis.

Thank you George you are my inspiration as i have been following your threads on here.

In this book by Simon Bolton give you the thickness of the of the Brass or nickel silver.

Hi Matt I. That book by Simon Bolton is very good. My Idia in modelling is to make thing, kit build or scratch building, I think that in modelling not by thing of the shelf ready made.