Dunmar

41 minutes ago, mallaig1983 said:

Bill, I’ve spoken to the dog and it wants it’s danglies back! That looks fantastic. I’ve been looking at my pair and contemplating similar. Where can one aquire a small tin of Northern yellow? I can only get Crosville leaf green around here.

 

Andy

Andy, I picked mine up last year at Bridgeton Bus Museum open day!

Bill.

26 minutes ago, scissors said:

Yes I suppose a standard car headlight would have a black bracket with it, just a lot more slender that of the model which means it does look better painted yellow. Please could you let us know what colour you used - it looks a great match.

Having run out of Warning Yellow I used Precision Paints Alexander Northern yellow. Yes, you heard correctly, normally for painting buses! 

The other end!

6 hours ago, scissors said:

Great work on the headlight. I'm surprised this is the first time it's been mentioned as that shiny black plastic back really stands out. It will be a definite early job on 37043 when it arrives. Just hope the eyes and hands are up to the task.

Having checked the reference books and all things West Highland/Far North Line there certainly seems the semblance of a black painted bracket more obvious on some than others. Yes I've painted mine, as cosmetically, it looks better. Yes, I know I have a lamp bracket missing!

6 hours ago, sulzer71 said:

You appear to have lost a headlight bracket there

Tbh, I can't say for sure if it was there in the first place. Like the broken bogie chain which I didn't notice either until a few days later. But I have big broad shoulders!

4 hours ago, mkrob said:

Hi Dunmar,

Forgive my ignorance, but did you make your coupling bar out of brass rod & glue it into the NEM socket or buffer beam? I've seen this type of coupling on SLW 24's as well, but not seen any information on how to make or fit them! Can you enlighten me please?

Hi,

The coupling bar is in fact made from brass rod and a hole is drilled in the buffer beam on the left of the coupling hook as there is already a hole on the right which I didn't use. The bar is bent to a square ' U ' shape and pushed through the beam. Allow 3/4mm on the other side to allow you to bend in toward the inside of the buffer beam. It is best to super glue the bar when you first insert it into the buffer beam, let it set and then bend .

5 hours ago, SRman said:

 

in my case, I have made sure the dip switches match the instructions for the ESU decoder, but it seems fairly obvious that the sensor input is not being detected. At present I have fiddled some more with the settings, turning all of the possible sensor inputs on in the decoder settings, but the flange squeal is only present if I turn all of them off on F11 (using the LokProgrammer, that was Sensors 1 to 4 and the Wheel sensor, all from the drop down list). So, at present, the flange squeal is set to on when F11 is on, regardless of whether the loco is going around a bend or not.

It's not a big deal for me, but I would like to suss it out (I like a challenge!). I suspect that flipping one of the "off" dip switches might enable the sensor again. I will give it a try later.

Watching your progress with interest. As my layout has a fair amount of pointwork , flange squeal is more than likely to be happening more frequently. Why couldn't the sensors been set to detect this??? Over to the team at Accurascale!

39 minutes ago, McC said:

 

Min the first place definitely drop the team a line with details. I assume the dip switches are all correctly in the ‘ESU’ sound chip position to enable the sensors and six functions?

Hi,

Dip switches were set on receipt, but will check again. Won't do anything else meantime as already have a Sound decoder on its way to you as I speak so will wait to hear the outcome of your findings.

Bill.

11 hours ago, SRman said:

I have noted a few posts regarding those who have fitted sound as an "aftermarket" item 9even with the Accurascale programmed decoder) where F11 is not producing the required flange squeal. My 37 423 has proved to be the same: no squeal.

I read the decoder details into my LokProgrammer software and looked at the function mapping for F11, and it showed that it was "On" and using input from "Sensor 2". I took out the Sensor 2 bit as a temporary solution, and the flange squeal does now work, although I haven't ascertained whether it goes all the time or only on the bends (which would be an unexpected result if that is the case). The other slight anomaly is that it squeals when F11 is off, but not when it is on, which is totally unexpected! I need to experiment more before I can give any definitive results that may assist others more reliably, but I can say I am on the right track to sorting it out.

Incidentally, I used an Accurathrash speaker in this one, but used a couple of blobs of black-tack to secure it. I have fixed many other speakers in my other sound conversions like this (or with Blu-tack) with no problems at all. This one is no exception. they are also very good at sealing the sound chambers in older style speaker setups where the speaker and its chamber are separate items.

Gratuitous photo of 37 423 here. I will eventually do a video of her at work as well.

Hi,

I have just returned from my local club meeting and after testing my second Accurascale 37 sound decoder which was delivered today. After testing on the club layout curves, no flange squeal was heard. This is now the second one to do so, or not.

3 hours ago, mallaig1983 said:

I was trying to fit the buffer beam mounted ploughs to one of mine the other day. Do the plugs go straight into the holes or do they need drilling out slightly? I was blaming poor eyesight. I opted to fit the one piece one to that particular loco as it was much easier. I do want to fit the body mounted ones to the other though to represent the fact that many of Eastfield’s 37s ran without the centre piece in the warmer months. I don’t know why this was the case though.

 

The weathering on the track looks wonderful. Do you have a layout build thread on here?

Hi,

Yes, you do have to drill the holes out a little with a micro drill as it does help. And yes I do have a thread on here which started out as Helmsdale, and then was changed to Laggan Bridge. Unfortunately I suffered from a rather severe case of sciatica which prevented me from getting into the loft for about 5 months, only now getting back up there.

Bill.

6 hours ago, SRman said:

I have noted a few posts regarding those who have fitted sound as an "aftermarket" item 9even with the Accurascale programmed decoder) where F11 is not producing the required flange squeal. My 37 423 has proved to be the same: no squeal.

I read the decoder details into my LokProgrammer software and looked at the function mapping for F11, and it showed that it was "On" and using input from "Sensor 2". I took out the Sensor 2 bit as a temporary solution, and the flange squeal does now work, although I haven't ascertained whether it goes all the time or only on the bends (which would be an unexpected result if that is the case). The other slight anomaly is that it squeals when F11 is off, but not when it is on, which is totally unexpected! I need to experiment more before I can give any definitive results that may assist others more reliably, but I can say I am on the right track to sorting it out.

Incidentally, I used an Accurathrash speaker in this one, but used a couple of blobs of black-tack to secure it. I have fixed many other speakers in my other sound conversions like this (or with Blu-tack) with no problems at all. This one is no exception. they are also very good at sealing the sound chambers in older style speaker setups where the speaker and its chamber are separate items.

Gratuitous photo of 37 423 here. I will eventually do a video of her at work as well.

That's interesting, as I have just returned a sound decoder to Accurascale as it failed to ' squeal '. Received another today, same result. Will get my mate to have a look on the Lokprogrammer.

Pipework and coupling bar added. But boy! If those 3 part ploughs came off once!??! and that's me being careful. Before the layout goes on the show circuit I will remove the small dimple on the fixing point of the plough and drill a hole to accept a piece of brass rod which would be more permanent.

33 minutes ago, Torbay Express said:

On 37/0's they have the cold start, but sadly loose the F8 wheelslip..... 

 

Personally I much prefer the wheelslip, as cold start don't really get used that much (possibly once when you start the loco for a few seconds?) , whereas I intend for the 'girls' to do some serious hard graft most of the time,with a driver who uses the power handle as a whip to show them whose their master..... 

 

My question is, with the 37/6's will they have the wheelslip, and not cold start.  (Bowing to the Accurascale Gods) -Please, pretty please, please.......

Same here. I prefer wheel slip as opposed to cold start. As I do the exhibition circuit my layout doesn't really lend itself to cold starting. 

On 30/06/2023 at 00:54, Melton Works said:

I downloaded WeTransfer to send a video to Accurascale support, to Simon, with a Deltic sound issue.

Eventually used this method.

Bill.

4 hours ago, mallaig1983 said:

Perhaps an email to Accurascale support then. I’m sure they’ll point you in the right direction.

I did contact them and they said send a short video. I have for the last 2 hours been trying to do so and each time I try to send it , tells me the file is too large and won't send.

13 hours ago, mallaig1983 said:

It’s switch on the prodigy advance. That’s what I use. Which leads to another question for Bill and apologies again if it’s a daft one but you’re not using the Prodigy Express are you?  If it’s a Prodigy advanced does ‘F11’  display on the screen and stay on the screen?

No! Advance.

14 hours ago, mallaig1983 said:

Sorry if this is a silly question Bill but have you run it round a curve with F11 actioned? It won’t work on the straight, rolling road etc.

Yep! And it's a Prodigy Advance 2.

Bill 

1 hour ago, mallaig1983 said:

Sorry if this is a silly question Bill but have you run it round a curve with F11 actioned? It won’t work on the straight, rolling road etc.

Yep! Ran it through the crossover of two points and the curve leading to fiddle yard.

27 minutes ago, McC said:

 

You can’t ‘play’ the squeal as it needs the hall sensors in the bogies to detect a curve while the loco is moving. 

Hi,

I was aware of that and mentioned this in the original post. Might the sensors be at fault. Can't I access the CV myself?

27 minutes ago, mallaig1983 said:

We haven’t got tge wheel slip on 027 Bill so you won’t find that. It’s an either/or depending on which

model you have. Flange squeal should be on F11 if all is as it should be.

Okay! Didn't know about the wheelslip. Can't hear flange squeal. I believe it is set of when the loco detects a curve in the track! But can I access it via my Prodigy?

Hi, 

Having probs finding both the flange squeal and wheelslip on 37 027. It simply just isn't there. How do I access the Cv's via my Prodigy 2.

Bill.

On 27/06/2023 at 10:19, mallaig1983 said:

Hi folks, I’ve had a busy weekend at a 3 day gala so have lost track of this thread ever so slightly so I thought I’d just ask this question here and hopefully your answers can help many others too. I have two 027s on the layout so obviously one is going to get renumbered. I wonder if those who have already done this to your brand new and very special and quite expensive new toys would be kind enough to share what you used to remove the printed numbers? It would be a useful resource to have a few opinions and how you feel about the ease, results etc. At 250 quid these are good value for money but it’s still a fair outlay and I really don’t want to make a mess of it.

id be very grateful to you for sharing your hints and tips.

Thanks.

Always works for me! T-cut and a cotton bud. And if you are very careful, T-cut and a cocktail stick as it's quicker.

Bill.

20 hours ago, 55020 said:

CV5 is setting the top speed, which for the AS 37 almost certainly doesn't need adjusting.  As mentioned by @newbryford above, CV6 will be zero unless a complex speed curve is enabled (which AS haven't, by default).

 

In order to get the thrash at slower speeds there seems like three obvious options.

1.  Simply use the Drive Hold function (F7).  The selected speed will remain and you can thrash away by increasing the throttle.

2.  Use 'heavy train mode' (F5), which will slow acceleration (and see below).

2.  Perhaps more elegant would be to permanently decrease the acceleration rate.  CV3 is your goto here.  This will slow acceleration whilst allowing the revs to respond to a more open throttle position.  CV3 is defaulted to 40, but can be set to anything between 0 and 255 (the higher the number, the slower the acceleration).  @PaulRhB has suggested on another thread using a value of 70. 

 

 

 

Steve

Worked a treat Steve. Have altered Cv3 for the time being and am much happier with the result. Will leave it for now at least till it's had some mileage under its belt. Looking forward to much the same with Loch Lomond when it arrives.

Bill.

5 minutes ago, 55020 said:

CV5 is setting the top speed, which for the AS 37 almost certainly doesn't need adjusting.  As mentioned by @newbryford above, CV6 will be zero unless a complex speed curve is enabled (which AS haven't, by default).

 

In order to get the thrash at slower speeds there seems like three obvious options.

1.  Simply use the Drive Hold function (F7).  The selected speed will remain and you can thrash away by increasing the throttle.

2.  Use 'heavy train mode' (F5), which will slow acceleration (and see below).

2.  Perhaps more elegant would be to permanently decrease the acceleration rate.  CV3 is your goto here.  This will slow acceleration whilst allowing the revs to respond to a more open throttle position.  CV3 is defaulted to 40, but can be set to anything between 0 and 255 (the higher the number, the slower the acceleration).  @PaulRhB has suggested on another thread using a value of 70. 

 

 

 

Steve

Thanks Steve.

I was aware of the points you have mentioned but wanted to hear from others who may have had the same issues and what they did to resolve them. I attended the Perth show today, and I may be corrected later, I appeared to be the only modeller there running an Accurascale 37, so no chance of others viewpoints.

9 minutes ago, 55020 said:

 

If you can indicate how you'd like the acceleration to be modified I can try and offer something that might help.

The only way I can explain it is how I did it on the V4's. The default setting was 255 on Cv5. This was changed to say, 150/160. Cv6 should be set to half of Cv5 ie. 50/60. The loco would run at a more realistic scale speed and would most certainly rev much sooner. When reading the V5 it shows the Cv5 default as 255 but shows no setting for Cv6.

Bill.