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Jeepy

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Posts posted by Jeepy

  1. On 07/10/2023 at 08:53, Tony Wright said:

    Regarding 'collectable' FLYING SCOTSMANS (or should the plural be SCOTSMEN?), has any locomotive had more models made of it? 

     

    Good morning Tony, 

     

    That's an interesting question, I personally find words and the way they're used fascinating, and fun!

    I think the plural should be Flying Scotsmans......You have far more experience and expertise in these matters than me but, to my mind at least, the subject(s) is/are an object that happens to be identified as Flying Scotsman rather than a person with wings from Scotland if you can understand my explanation! That's the way my mind works I'm afraid! 

     

    Best wishes,

     

    Jim.

     

    • Interesting/Thought-provoking 3
  2. 1 hour ago, AdamOrmorod said:

    Just curious, why does the A3 have an extra handrail knob on each side at the front?

    Hi, 

     

    I'm no expert but I've got a feeling the handrail will be bent around and the knobs fitted above the smoke box door eventually 🤔

     

    Best wishes, 

     

    Jim. 

    • Thanks 1
  3. 1 hour ago, Tony Wright said:

    The latest O4/8 is now complete and running on LB.

     

    O4817.jpg.e661d8f5f9550610ac6d5fb282c76e1a.jpg

     

    Dry-brush weathering attempts to copy the prototype.

     

    O4818.jpg.2e884f05b03bdf5a3b7235cf95e96c57.jpg

     

    40+full minerals proved to be no impediment. 

     

    O4819.jpg.5a0cdce7b3cda9b1d83e27180aec228f.jpg

     

    Once completed, none of my locos runs without a crew. 

     

    O4820.jpg.95c6284cdd62475d02eb70b7b884a438.jpg

     

    Probably the definition of a 'layout loco' in the flesh, so to speak. 

     

    Ian Wilson's Pacific front numberplate (correctly with 'incorrect' '6' and '9') just adds the finishing touch. 

     

    The last time I mentioned disguising the signals' bases, one mechanism failed. Dare I do it now? 

     

     

    Good evening Tony, 

     

    Regarding the signal bases, how about sprinkling some appropriate coloured ballast over them and leaving it loose? If you have one of those rechargeable mini hoovers then if you do have to remove any signals you could just hoover it up and retain the ballast for re-use perhaps 🤔, having said that, I'm not sure if it may jam the mechanism by working it's way into where the wire passes through the baseboard! 

    Perhaps some sort of tiny 'collar' around that area? 

     

    Best wishes, 

     

    Jim. 

     

     

    • Like 3
    • Agree 1
    • Thanks 1
  4. I can see it too, it seems strange that the reduction in the flange is in exactly the same position on both wheels! It seems to me that if the wheels were turned down or filed down seperately off of the loco what are the chances of that happening? 

    A very interesting locomotive though! My thoughts are that it may be just an illusion but very perplexing as to how it's being created, lovey job so far Jesse 👍

     

    Best wishes, 

     

    Jim. 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  5. 25 minutes ago, Jol Wilkinson said:

    Frank, 

     

    this is in contravention of the accepted procedure for designing layouts. Find out how much space you have, make/buy  the baseboards to fill the space and only then work out a track plan.

     

    Jol

     

    Totally agree! That's what I've done in my shed 👍😆

     

    Best wishes, 

     

    Jim. 

  6. Hello, 

    I agree with Compound2632 actually, it looks like trial and error will be the way! 

     

    I glued the bearings in with a 'super glue' as they are brass...... 

    IMG_20230130_193917.jpg.6377560f291df0018f7f95c463672630.jpgIMG_20230130_193912.jpg.251f13e3eb85e4ccdf3c43cdc6dc3415.jpg

     

    ........ Then I set the sole bars in the correct positions on the wagon floor against the little nipples with blu-tak and an elastic band then inserted the wheel sets, there is a tiny amount of splay, just about noticeable! 

    I dont know if you can see in the pictures taken on my phone! 

    One side....... 

    IMG_20230130_204350.jpg.8e3cbc9231b56aff1f231684e303506c.jpg

     

    ...... And the other side....... 

    IMG_20230130_204358.jpg.e3f95d0e7abb0c3d6b109fb815d2a758.jpg

     

    ...... This side actually looks straight to me so I pushed the assembly over a little and the amount of splay gets divided between the Two sides so isn't quite as noticeable but I know it's there!

    There will be a little bit of fettling going on by removing the bearings and trying again after countersinking a little I think, it's only a minute amount so won't take much doing I think! Thank you all for your contributions, I'm learning quite alot from this and I'm enjoying it tremendously! 

    Apologies for the poor pictures, it's the first time I've uploaded any onto the forum and I'm no expert at photography! 

     

    Best wishes, 

     

    Jim. 

    • Like 2
    • Friendly/supportive 2
  7. 1 hour ago, Enterprisingwestern said:

     

     

     

    image.png.bd7cf7bc066d03cbf74fcefbb765e027.png

     

    My method of ensuring the the solebars of plastic kits are are 23mm apart, which is the correct distance for flush fitting bearings, and ensures the axles are parallel. Slightly countersinking the inner face of the axlebox before fitting to ensure flushness is recommended.

    Sometimes, (calling Cambrian and old Ratio!), the solebars are too wide when fitted in their intended positions so packing out is required.

     

    Mike.

     

    Mike.

    Thanks...... That looks like a handy little tool..... Keeps the sole bars square too! 

     

    Best wishes, 

     

    Jim. 

    • Agree 2
  8. 19 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

     

    That was the OP's point - how do you interpret 'flush'?

     

    Cambrian's response seems to indicate that 'flush' for a plain bearings means the face of the bearing is flush with the face of the axleguard, but 'flush' for a flanged bearing means with the flange proud of the axleguard face.

     

    CJI.

    That's exactly what I was trying to convey, after asking the gentleman at Cambrian he said the 'flange' is designed to sit on top so that is what I'm going with and we'll see what happens! 

    I've fitted the bearings but haven't got around to fixing/fiddling with the completed sole bars/W irons yet, work and shopping etc! Thank you for your input everyone, I shall post my conclusion here.......just to add, after fitting the bearings I managed to lose one of the tiny axle boxes which pinged off into oblivion whilst cutting it off the sprue, it won't affect fitting the sole bar assemblies though, I've asked Cambrian about ordering another sprue with those on, 

     

    Best wishes, 

     

    Jim. 

    • Friendly/supportive 1
  9. 2 minutes ago, cctransuk said:

     

    I prefer to set the bearings further into the axleguards if necessary; packing out the solebars destroys the correct relationship between solebar and body.

     

    CJI.

    Understood, thank you! 

     

    I suppose if the 'W' iron assembly was attached on one side in the correct position with a small amount of Blu-Tak that would work too so it didn't fall off while I'm holding the other side just to assess the fit with a wheelset in place, interesting times coming up! Although I do believe in what Graham at Cambrian suggests I will attempt a dry run somehow to confirm, thank you, 

     

    Best wishes, 

     

    Jim. 

     

     

  10. 5 minutes ago, 57xx said:

    Some I will attach one solebar with just two small spots of glue at each end. Enough to hold in place while dry fitting the other side and checking for splay. It's easy enough to cut off again if the solebars need packing with microstrip to space them apart. Saves remembering where you left your 3rd and 4th hands.

    That's interesting, thank you, 

     

    Best wishes, 

     

    Jim. 

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