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Jeepy

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    Starting out in the shed - some questions!

    in Modelling musings & miscellany

    Posted

    Hello, 

    That's a nice size shed! I thought i was lucky with a 12' x 10'!

    I built mine from a 'kit', it sits on a timber frame suspended by posts concreted into the ground, the walls, ceiling and floor are insulated with 25mm polystyrene making sure there was an airflow gap between the insulation and the outer walls and roof then the interior was lined with 6mm ply sheets and sealed with undercoat and white emulsion, there are vents all around the exterior walls for the above mentioned insulation gap. 

    Mains electricity was professionally installed with a seperate breaker box and a buried armoured cable from the house, i 'built' it around 3 Years ago and i only put the small electric heater on low for an hour or so during the colder periods before i venture down there, sometimes i don't go down there for a few days at a time and I've never had any problems, i have got venetian blinds on the windows that are kept closed during the warmer Months and if I'm home i hold the door slightly ajar on a hook and eye arrangement as it does get quite breezy here being on higher ground with bungalows all around, the wind whips around unchecked! 

     

    Best wishes, 

     

    Jim. 

    Wright writes.....

    in Modelling musings & miscellany

    Posted

    2 minutes ago, Jeepy said:

    Good morning Tony, 

     

    The J94 interests me very much! 

    I also think it's a fair price, however, i can't seem to find £185 anywhere at the moment! :(

     

    Best wishes, 

     

    Jim. 

     

    That's not to say i shan't be purchasing anything that may become available another time, thank you! 

     

    Jim. 

    Wright writes.....

    in Modelling musings & miscellany

    Posted

    9 minutes ago, Tony Wright said:

    Good morning Jim,

     

    You'll find my card in the packaging of the model I send to you. Please get in touch via email or phone and fix up a visit for next year.

     

    The same arrangement applies to all purchasers of the second-hand items.

     

    Regards,

     

    Tony. 

    Good morning Tony, 

     

    Thanks ever so much! 

     

    Best wishes, 

     

    Jim. 

    Wright writes.....

    in Modelling musings & miscellany

    Posted

    Good afternoon Tony, 

     

    I am wondering if the L1 you breifly mention in your general list of locomotives that will be coming up for sale at some point might be the Maunsell 4-4-0 type please? 

    I don't mean to pester you as i know you're busy! Thank you, 

     

    Best wishes, 

     

    Jim. 

    Locomotion & Rails of Sheffield announce SE&CR D Class

    in Rails of Sheffield

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Venator said:

    My main concern and forgive me if someone else has already pointed this out, the centre wheel on the tender doesn't turn freely. Is it a lack of weight in the tender?

    Now you've mentioned it i have just been observing mine on the test track and the centre tender wheels are only 'touching down' on the railhead occasionally while running and none of the tender wheelsets spin freely by hand, they seem to be sprung with a bias to one side so may be rubbing on the brake rigging or perhaps the pick ups? Not sure at the moment but the centre wheels do seem to be riding higher than the others............. 

     

    Best wishes, 

     

    Jim 

    Locomotion & Rails of Sheffield announce SE&CR D Class

    in Rails of Sheffield

    Posted

    55 minutes ago, Jeepy said:

    Good call! Thank you! I'll bear that in mind...... Why didn't i think of that!?! So simple! Lol! 

     

    Best wishes 

     

    Jim. 

    Just to add, i did magnetise my screwdrivers to make grappling with tbe retaining plate screws easier by leaving them in the magnetic bowl and i did try doing the same with the nut spinner at the time but it's not magnetically (Is there such a word?) compatible, so i did it the hard way with tweezers etc but thank you for the tip! I'll know next time! Lol! 

     

    Best wishes, 

     

    Jim. 

    Locomotion & Rails of Sheffield announce SE&CR D Class

    in Rails of Sheffield

    Posted

    My early BR lined Black one arrived the other day, the obligatory tender buffer loose in the package and the cab roof fell off! Also the tender brake rigging was making a bid for freedom when i lifted it out! Lol! All easily sorted though, she ran beautifully on the rolling road and i do think it's a lovely model overall, the cab detail is fantastic! 

    I changed the leading driving wheels for the ones without traction tyres but i have yet to try my birdcage 3-set behind it on a layout, that job was really fiddly, mainly trying to get the connecting rod screws back in, i kept dropping them down inside the loco body! You have to start screwing them in as soon as you offer them to the hole through the connecting rod and the wheel because the thread starts right at the beginning of the hole, you can't sit the screw in the hole first then get the 'spanner' on it, it's a 3 handed job! Lol! 

     

    Best wishes, 

     

    Jim. 

    Wright writes.....

    in Modelling musings & miscellany

    Posted

    2 hours ago, ScRSG said:

    Or you can also use 100 degree solder which "sticks" to both brass and whitemetal, tend to keep the iron on the brass side and let it flow to the whitemetal with the flux.

     

    Ahh! Another experiment to play with..... I get the feeling that may require a bit more care but well worth trying with the scrap material first if i can aquire some 100 degree solder, some fun experiments coming up! Thank you! 

     

    Best wishes, 

     

    Jim. 

    Wright writes.....

    in Modelling musings & miscellany

    Posted

    8 minutes ago, Chuffer Davies said:

    Hi Jim,

    the trick is to tin the brass with your usual solder (145 deg?) first and then use low melt to solder the white metal to the tinned brass (or n/silver)…

    Good luck!

    Frank

    Ahh! That makes sense! Thanks ever so much Frank, when i next get a chance i will experiment with some scraps of brass and whitemetal using the method you mention, i use flux cored 60/40 for electrical but i do possess a packet of 145 degree solder and a packet of 188 degree solder, i shall try with the 145 to start with and see how i get on, I just didn't want to perhaps ruin the kits experimenting and end up with a blob of whitemetal that used to be a suspension component or something! I do really enjoy 'playing' with soldering though, thanks again! 

     

    Best wishes, 

     

    Jim. 

    Wright writes.....

    in Modelling musings & miscellany

    Posted

    3 minutes ago, Jeepy said:

    Hello everyone, 

     

    I wonder, may i ask a question with reference to soldering technique please? 

    I consider myself fairly proficient at soldering although I'm certainly not an expert, i can successfully solder layout wiring, brass etch, nickel silver and whitemetal but as seperate entities, for example, whitemetal bus kits, brass etch and nickel silver for experimenting with signals, and layout wiring, all of which i enjoy doing, i have a cheap seperate temperature controlled soldering station for whitemetal and only use it for that purpose as i have set the knob exactly where i need it for 70 degree solder! 

    I have a more powerful soldering station for brass and nickel silver and a portable 25w Antex for electrical work, however, i have never tried soldering whitemetal to brass etch before, i have a couple of Roxey Mouldings coach kits that i would like to build which consist of both materials. 

    Will 70 degree solder suffice or will that not enable the whitemetal to 'stick' to the brass please? 

     

    Thank you, in anticipation, 

     

    Jim. 

    I hasten to add that use Rosin flux mostly or Hobby Holidays 'no clean' flux for electrical work, i also possess some 9% phosphorus acid flux but have never used it! 

     

    Thank you, 

     

    Best wishes, 

     

    Jim. 

    Wright writes.....

    in Modelling musings & miscellany

    Posted

    Hello everyone, 

     

    I wonder, may i ask a question with reference to soldering technique please? 

    I consider myself fairly proficient at soldering although I'm certainly not an expert, i can successfully solder layout wiring, brass etch, nickel silver and whitemetal but as seperate entities, for example, whitemetal bus kits, brass etch and nickel silver for experimenting with signals, and layout wiring, all of which i enjoy doing, i have a cheap seperate temperature controlled soldering station for whitemetal and only use it for that purpose as i have set the knob exactly where i need it for 70 degree solder! 

    I have a more powerful soldering station for brass and nickel silver and a portable 25w Antex for electrical work, however, i have never tried soldering whitemetal to brass etch before, i have a couple of Roxey Mouldings coach kits that i would like to build which consist of both materials. 

    Will 70 degree solder suffice or will that not enable the whitemetal to 'stick' to the brass please? 

     

    Thank you, in anticipation, 

     

    Jim. 

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