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Miserable

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  1. Miserable
    In the six years or so I was going manic on the music front a lot changed in model railways, the arrival of laser cut MDF/carboard kits being one of them. Confusingly all the makers have very similar names, but after a lot of time on the web trying to work out the pros and cons it was decision time and I opted for LCUT's B 70-13L O Gauge Small Signal Box - with left hand stairs. I did consider kit-bashing the laser cut model of Pewsey signal box into a replica of my old box, or it would have been delightful to have the model of Exeter Middle Box which is, to say the least, impressive - but both would be way too big for Soddigham. Though not specifically GWR (or BR(W)) the LCUT kit is sufficiently GWRish (the key architectural features match my old box very well) for my purposes and as it represents a box with a 20 to 30 lever frame it's probably about right for the layout.

    Above : This is what you get.
    The instructions, which you should read before starting not least as you can do bits in parallel while glue dries if you choose, are good, tough the chimney being shown upside down is a little perplexing. Not having built this sort of kit before it was nice to find that all the dimensions are bob-on, the interleaving of the bricks on the corners for example works perfectly and overlays match exactly. A definite improvement on the Superquick kits I built back in the day.
    LCUT recommend PVA glue, but I went with Evostick Timebond because; this gives you plenty of time to prepare bits and you can move them for some time after placement if you need to; it 'holds' parts together straight away (they don't slide down over time etc); you don't need more than the thinnest smear (so no glue squeezing out of joints or dribbling); and it sticks very well. The disadvantage is the glue 'stringing', but you get used to it.
    So, step 1 : Window frame overlays...

    All fitted perfectly. Put aside to go off (takes about 15 minutes), I got on with the front lower windows.

    And frame-room door

    I should have cut the part number tags off before doing these, but it doesn't actually matter. The board/card is easy enough to cut with a sharp knife. A blunt knife just tears it though.
    After a couple of minutes the brick base can be assembled

    Keen to get the first corner at 90' I employed my old faithful engineers square. It's accurate and dammed heavy. The pot of glue makes sure nothing moves - I still vaguely don't trust MDF to warp.
    Will all four walls glued, a frame is made to go inside to support the floor. Unfortunately they had supplied four of the shorter (side) parts rather than two short and two long.

    Not to worry though, I could still make a frame for the floor using these.

    You really need all this to still be flexible, but not fall aparty, to put the floor in - which much to my surprise fitted exactly.

    Mr. Square stars again.
    Gluing the window frames in place looked a little scary, but here again the choice of glue came to the rescue - pretty much just put them in place and they stay there - though I did use Mr. Square again just for belt and braces. They kind of only go in one way, sitting on the walls below, but stating whether they are intended to be flush or whatever in the instructions would have removed lingering doubts.

    The upper door fitting in the bricks here was the only time I had to resort to filing to get a fit, it was a very tight to start with.

    While that was all going off, I assembled the gable ends and... the stairs. My concerns about MDF came true here, the lugs rapidly de-laminate and are hard to get into the second set of side rails while not falling out of the other. This was very fiddly but I got there in the end without destroying anything, which is nice.

    And to the roof. As I intend to put and interior and a light in the box I made the roof as a separate assembly, as suggested in the instructions.

    The two rafters fitted. I left the glue to go off a bit, around five minutes before attaching rafters so that it acted more like a contact adhesive, so I could go straight on with the other side.

    Then fix the chimney to this, fix the ridge times and the stairs to the box and plonk the roof on. It fits!

    Clothes pegs are good things too. Stroppy ridge tiles.
    So here it is in situ on the layout. 'Just' paint, interior and lighting to add. And glazing - which for some reason isn't supplied

    Oh, and the rampy thing for going over the point rodding - I nearly missed this.
     
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  2. Miserable

    End Of The Road - On Here

    By Miserable,


    End
    Unfortunately this site has a member, posting under at least two identities, who seriously needs to get a life, seeming to think this his private empire to rule as he pleases. He recently started contributing, unhelpfully, to a two-man discussion thread under his other persona (though blatantly him from the start), right from the off trying to goad a reaction - stalking really. When one's contributions are belittled it takes away the fun. Hope you all get through these hard time in one piece and have success with you modelling endevours. Remember, no one is right all the time. When he reports this post Mods, please delete my account. In the mean time, I've just scrambled my password so please feel free to rant away.  
  3. Miserable

    Parkside BR 12T Pipe Wagon Kit Build

    By Miserable,


    Rolling Stock
    Having had some paint problems,  mostly very slow drying (maybe temperature related, it's not that warm in the loft at this time of year), the SR van is parked to one side while things go off. So to avoid practicing I've started the BR 12T pipe wagon kit. With a bit of luck I can do one while the other's paint dries and so on.
     
    The box is what you'd expect - a box really. Inside there's somewhat less a number of parts compared to the SR van - and no need to pre-paint stuff.
     
     

     
    The instructions start with assembling the couplings and fitting them to the draw bars. Ah. The kit comes with three link couplings, whereas being fitted it should have instanters. Instanters ordrered. I'm going to skip the couplings and do them when the proper ones arrive. If I can get hold of the supplier I'm keen to fit roller bearings as this one is for Soddingham, but that may have to go by the board. Anyhow, assembling the body presented no problems, and a few minor mould marks and very little flashing. The instructions suggest fitting one end to the floor, then a side, other end and other side, but just for being a bit easier to hold I did one end, then both sides. I'm glad I did as the floor was just a tad long meaning the door closing pins at the tops of the doors didn't quite meet up with corresponding mouldings on the end when the end was square to the floor. A little filing fixed that and tra la, one body.
     

     
    Next, having checked the axle box backs move freely in the axleguards (2 did, 2 didn't quite) the sole bards were offered up to body. These needed a bit of timping to get them to sit nicely in the backs of the drawbars, but no rocket science required. I've not fixed these yet as I wanted to see if the 'pips' on the chassis frame should stay or go as there aren't mentioned in the instructions. Stay is the answer, with them there the chassis it at the right height to fit flush to the drawbar (its a little warped when not being held in the photo). I'm assuming that's how it goes as it 'looks right'. The chassis is notably shorter than the distance between the two drawbars, about 1mm each end. Not a lot I can do about that without getting entirely carried away with plasticard. That's for tomorrow, or the day after in the van paint has gone off.
     
     

  4. Miserable
    Alas Wilko were out of their 350 x 450 x 40mm granite cutting boards, so a smaller local shop provided a glass one for a whopping £2. It's nice and flat, but being basically a bit of glass (I assume some form of Pyrex) so it's survival chances are probably not very long term. But it will do for now.
     

     
    It's sadly not full of stars.
     
  5. Miserable

    Parkside SR 25T Brake Van Kit Build - 2

    By Miserable,


    Rolling Stock
    And on to actually making it. The first thing I did, as I intend to paint the inside faces of the verandah as the instructions suggest, was to prepare the ends, side and chassis bits. Nothing overly exciting, just cut away some flashing and file mould marks flat. Where they will be visible I've removed the circular marks from the injection process (at least that what I hope they are!) , I've put 'as is' next to tarted up. This is probably a bit OTT since with the verandah doors shut you'd have a job to see them, but it makes me feel warm and cuddly. I also checked the ends and sides fit together snugly, but left the sprue on for something to hold while painting. The chassis was cleaned up to glued together. The floor has a slight gap - I'm going to wait and see as regards filling, I've no idea if it will be visible later on.  So far so good, now to reach for the early BR grey...
     
     

     
     

  6. Miserable

    Parkside SR 25T Brake Van Kit Build

    By Miserable,


    Rolling Stock
    With the banner repeater finished and the stone walling on order, another sub-project as mentioned is needed. To this end I've secured a spray gun that actually sprays, but as yet can't find the marble cutting board I use as a known flat surface to make sure all is square. A trip to Wilko on shopping day may be in order. I'm attempting to order a set of wheels with roller bearings for this, as I'd like to see how effectively loose shunting can be reproduced, since it was such a major part of railway operation. Plus I want use blackened wheels, I don't 'get' the Slaters silver rims and they are a to paint. I don't know if a Parkside kit build it is of any interest to anyone, there's probably millions on the web, but I'll post it anyway because Friday or something.
     
    Anyhow, to the van. I'm not overly SR oriented, and this is the first wagon I've made that I didn't actually work with - probably a lot to do with the SR being fitted-only by my day. I guess some were probably still in Engineers use somewhere. I'm looking at BR decoration, as the 7mm ones for sale seem to be mostly SR. But the I have a pot of SR paint on the shelf... ah decisions.
     

     
    The box. Pretty much what you'd expect!
     

     
    The bits. And so many... The repeater is still drying down to the left (one tiny blob of back on white - arrrrgggghh), so I'll not start just now so I don't knock it off. At least the work bench is tidy. Ish.
  7. Miserable
    So the last bit was cap for the post. The bits I found in the signals odd-and-ends bag turned out to not be what was desired. However, further rooting around produced a brass disc (I'm guessing a counter-balance weight) that was only slightly oversize. Filing this to fit, it needs to be a kind of dome affair going by the drawing, was not going to be easy. Then the little grey cells had a conference and Plan B arrived... I soldered it to a off-cut of the correct size post, then it was easy to file it to the desired size and shape and glue it to the post.

     

     
    Everything then got final coats of paint - and it's done. When the paint is dry off comes the tape on the post, two bits of white splash to cover with black and then off to eBay.
     
    It's been fun, if a little slow due to making it up as I go along. The first one I built , for my layout, didn't take long to build but is non-working, it's lit but no operating rod for the signal. Making this a working one has been something of a learning curve, as indeed has been finding out about the variations of the prototype. Every day's a school day :-)
     
    Now to clear the decks for the Parkside SR 20T Brake Van. I may use this as the prototype for roller bearing wheels if they are available, another little project I fancy trying.
     
    Happy New Year, lets hope it works out better. I'm not risking saying it couldn't get any worse.
     
     



  8. Miserable
    That's the thing painted! Some tidying to do, and some chalk to apply to the woodwork, but that's essentially it. The back 'glass' of the case has had some white applied in a thin coat to see how it goes. When it's gone off I'll see if another coat is needed, to which end I've plugged it in as per the photos. The lamp tell-tale is definitely getting blocked, the post being white makes it worse. Eyeing up the SR van kit now, well more being glared at it, but that means.... gulp...... tidying the workbench. About half the stone walling for the back of the north end of the layout is now on order, but will likely not arrive until well into January. The wait is worth it, the Invertrain plaster stone wall is just so, er, walley. Here's some pictures of the now not-just-grey signal.
     

     

     

     
     
     
     

  9. Miserable
    The plan was to paint the white first, but then I put the tape the wrong side of the line, so black it is. The good news is nothing fell off, the bad news is it's probably just waiting for an inconvenient moment. Doubtless someone will be along telling me I'm doing this all wrong, but some more photo searching seems to show that having a finial may only apply for BR days, and perhaps only then when the signal is much taller than I'm making. So I'm going for a cap, following GWR practice, so it certainly isn't completely wrong. The kit instructions, who's authors I confident are au fait with the prototypes, call for a cap. A couple of likely candidates for the cap have emerged from the bag of signal bits I have knocking around, so hopefully that's sorted out. I forgot to take the photo's with the white applied.. another post follows later as I have to fire up the studio to do a bit of musicing.
     

     
     
     
     
  10. Miserable

    Banner Repeater Kit Build - 6

    By Miserable,


    SIgnals
    Not the most wildly exciting post, but the signal is now primed! A spot of tidying here and then the top coat. It looks like getting a finial before January isn't going to happen, so soon the next project starts. Much as I'd like to do the ABS guard van kit, I really need to get the three Parkside kits I have left over from an attempt at starting a model shop out of the way, to wit a BR 12T Tube, the inevitable BR sand wagon and an SR brake van. As Lady Provenance is delivering a spay gun on Wednesday I think the brake van will be first. I'm not terribly SR (except for Queen Mary brake vans, I need one of them) but have the paint so this will be eBayed too. The others fit in on the layout, which is nice. Anyhow, here's some pictures of a grey signal.
     
     
     

     

     
     

  11. Miserable

    Banner Repeater Kit Build - 6

    By Miserable,


    SIgnals
    A finally, less the finial it is built. The hand rail is a a square, made from bits - I guess you could just bend it - but since the irons out anyway I like making it. The tape holds stuff nicely while you squint trying to get the uprights upright. The first one I built I misread the drawing and had four uprights, this time I've done it right with two uprights and the rear fixed just to the post. I've added the base, which is more to hold it together than a layout fixing. I couldn't face taking a finial off the 'spare' signal so a bit of shopping is on order. Other than that - paint!
     
     

     
     

     

     
     
     
     
     


  12. Miserable
    So with the ripples of quantum uncertainty passed, back to the train set. The operating rod has been added, so the signal now 'works'. It's awfully cramped but it all went in. This was a bit of a pain with having to take it out each time to put the kinks in so it goes down through the centreline of the platform. It works nicely.
     I'm thinking that drilling the tell-tale on the back of the lamp might have been unnecessary - no one can see it with the post in the way. I'll probably blank it. The front view shows, just about, how the light looks. Some white paint should give quite good effect even with all junk now in the way (as I remember, these weren't exactly searchlight-bright). 
     

     
    And then the platform. The drawing shows 4.5 planks but trying to trim my 'planks' proved difficult, since the cut tends to follow the grain of the wood with wobbly results. Having said that, cutting out the slot for the case and filing dimples to go round the posts went very well - these strirrers are much better that the ones I used to get from my Scottish sounding unofficial sponsor.
     
    That just leaves four steps... First the railing around the platform and then finally the finial. I have three GWR ones in a bag. Somewhere. Not seen for years. Might have to rob the unfinished bracket signal, dammit. Then fit the base and..... paint! I'm going for white to keep the GWRiness again.
     
    The lighting.... I bought the second set and installed as previously mentioned. Very nice light to work in, but a bit too white for playing sunlight I think. I installed the Lidl Home app on my phone, and then discovered the small print (more not so black letters on a black background). You have to buy a controller to plug into your router. It seems this is a part of a house management system than includes Bluetooth light bulbs and stuff. Ah, well, I look into that later. I was considering another set to go over the work bench, but then I thought a set 100 bright white LEDS onna string for a few quid would work just as well.
     


  13. Miserable

    Lighting The Layout - And Pliers

    By Miserable,


    Layout Lighting
    Progress on the banner repeater hasn't for a couple of days due to exciting family based distractions, but while suffering the weekly shop I found something that solves my layout lighting problem - the problem being lack of daylight in the loft and poor artificial lighting making seeing anything difficult. I was aware of LED strips from art installations I've assisted with, but I've not been able source them at either a sensible price or with adequate explanation of what you get for your money, so steam powered me was looking for some sort of strip lights. Cue the middle isle in Lidl. They have two types of strip, 2m and 5m. A peek in the boxes suggests the 2m version, despite being the same price (£15) as the 5m version, is a bit more industrial looking so the Brunel in me took over.
     

    This is the best the current lighting can do, without using an old standard lamp to illuminate where I'm working.
     

     
    From the always surprising Lidl middle isle. Clear white to sunset orange...
     
    What I wanted was some sort of lighting 'behind' the purlin shining down in a hidden light source effect, so sticky back LED strip is ideal. I didn't want the whole loft lit, not a good music environment (for me). Though the strip comes ready-sticky, it doesn't stick all that well to old timber, but pairs of drawing pins 'clipping' the strip works just fine. Unpacking the box reveals an instruction book, power supply, controller box (I assume!), the LED strip and a male-male connector to add additional LED strips. Plugging it all in et voilà, cycling white light. During to the time it took to retrieve the instructions from the bin it actually settled down to a constant 'white', so no need to set up the Lidl app that controls the LEDs from your phone (Bluetooth). I'll experiment with softer white settings and sunset oranges later, for now seeing what I'm doing is priority.
     

     
    That's much better :-) I'll be getting another set next week (if there's any left) for the north end of the layout. Trouble is now I can see Ineed to finish the scenery...
     
    And in other news, I found my favourite pliers. These are an ancient pair I've had for decades and the tips are just right for making loops in handrails etc. In a bit of a coincidence as I was celebrating finding them (I need them for the 43two1 20T BR brake van kit I have in the projects queue) when the previous one I built (using said pliers) appeared on eBay - according to the seller it's 'professionally built' which I'm happy to take :-)
     

     
    Is it sad to have favourite pliers?
     
    Ah well, back to the repeater I guess.
  14. Miserable

    Banner Repeater KIt Build - 4

    By Miserable,


    SIgnals
    It's been a couple of days mostly waiting for tiny bits of paint to dry... and some musicing. Finally everything is coming together. The case, or whatever you call it, is finally in place as is the ladder. I added a small washer before the signal arm so it sits 'in the middle' of the case nicely. When all folded up (for the umpteenth time) the arm turns nicely, just tight enough not to wobble but free enough for a servo to drive it. 
     

     
    There's no base with the kit so I've chopped up a bit of plasticard for one as this may improve the chances of survival with Royal Mail. The post will stick through about 10mm to locate it on a layout, the ladder will glued in holes to provide at least some rigidity. The maximum height of  the signal, i.e. the plan, is defined by the length of the ladder. From the instructions with the stop signal kit it seems ladders should be at 120' to the platform, thereby determining the distance of the bottom from the post. It's a very long time singe I used a protractor!
     

     
    The lamp isn't fixed yet as I need to double check the height before doing so, and get access to drill the hole for the operating rod. The loop on the operating crank is hidden behind the signal arm itself, so hopefully there won't be a strange shadows. I've decided against giving it a butt, mostly in deference to GWRiness (according to the drawing).
     
  15. Miserable
    A good deal of time on the information super highway has confirmed these signal were not available in mechanical flavour, so plastering it with cranks to make it work is no longer a plan. Neither is the rod going up the post, since with three ninety degree bends there would be way to much flexing going on.
     

     
    So the plan is now to turn the drive through ninety degrees with a crank or similar. Having soldered the bearing tube to the pivot support and doing a trial assembly it seems the pivot support, when backed up by the 'glass', is sufficiently rigid to work ok without bending. However putting a crank on, even after cutting off the unused arm would obscure the lamp somewhat. And not look good. Apart it all came again. Looking at the instructions again I realised that bending the shaft ninety degrees at the pivot would not only provide the required direction change, but also act as a clamp to hold it in place. While the shaft was still straight I fitted the platform, the little bit that goes in from of the repeater on the platform and cut the new lamp support tube. The wires went down the post. I cleaned the white paint off the obscurred 'glass' because whatever I do it scratches off, so I'll paint it at the end.
     
     
     
    With all that done, I bent the shaft and tarted up the paint that will be inaccessible later. Hopefully tomorrow the paint will be dry (it's not warm in the loft) and the thing can finally go together
     

     
  16. Miserable

    Banner Repeater KIt Build - 2

    By Miserable,


    SIgnals
    When the paint had dried on the arm and 'opaque glass' it was time for a trial assembly. The first of these I built I didn't make work, because it's sat about 40mm from a tunnel mouth and 70mm from the wall and there seemed little point so I just did the lamp conversion.  This is new territory now. It all went together nicely, except that the arm was jammed in between the 'glasses'.
     
    At this point I remembered commenting in a way earlier post the strip seemed a bit thin and I'd try a wider bit next time. So, welcome to a slightly belated next time. Another rummage in the metallic bits and bobs box sourced a suitable bit of strip. Forming this was a bit of a trial, I don't know if brass comes in different flavours, but stuff was harder to bend smoothly so to speak. After quite a lot of faffing, and I confess a little Language, it was finally the right shape and soldered on.
     
    Thence trial assembly 2.0.

    This worked much better, the arm moves freely and doesn't rub on the 'glass' leaving scuff marks. The clamps are brilliant little things I got from a sewing shop, they are meant as a replacement for pins when hemming (so I am assured) and are right little limpets. At this point I got to wondering how the arm would be rotated, the drawing just shows a somewhat ethereal loop arrangement. All the photos I can find show, or appear to show, electric signals. Some sort of bearing and crank is going to be needed I think, probably requiring strengthening the pivot support by thickening or adding a strip to make it a T shape.  I've cut a bit of tube and painted the inside of the case (still missed a bit though!) and am now going to put the headphones on and have a ponder about how the thing is to be worked. It looks like its going to be a raid on the matallic bits and bobs box as the rod needs to come down from the signal, turn 90' to run under the platform, and then turn 90' again to go down the side of the post. Then should there be a balance arm? I guess there would have to have been pre-electricity  (did they exist then?) There will be a prototype somewhere...  that's my story.
     


  17. Miserable

    Banner Repeater KIt Build

    By Miserable,


    SIgnals
    As I mentioned earlier now seems a good chance to build this kit, or rather the second one of the two in the kit. The instructions are essentially a nice sketch of how it goes together together with some drawings of various possible formats. I can't remember if there was another sheet with this giving dimensions, but I do remember having to to a lot of research as to height and such. From there I'm essentially guessing by extrapolating the drawings for things like how high the platform sits on the post. I'm building the middle one, GWR style - this seems to have been a fairly standard BR alternative to the double ladder set up on the right.
     

     
    What you get in the kit is a little sparse looking, (don't forget there's another one in the bag too) but you get what you need to make the repeater. They were mounted in so many different ways I guess making a universal kit is impossible, so it's kind of 'left for the modeller to...' That said, to make the GWR version you only need a post as the ladder is in there. I think you can get one from MSE, but I just went mad and bought their Tubular Post Pack which has all sorts in. Luckily, since to get the wires to the lamp means swapping thin tube for the wire the lamp normally sits on. There's nothing provided for any counter-balance arm or such, and as yet I've not managed to find a photo to see how it would work, so I'm quietly ignoring it. There's also no cap or finial for the post, again I've not found a clear photo so it'll be a GWR one unless I find otherwise before getting there.
     

     
    So to making it. The platform everything goes on a simple fold to get a U channel. This will need an extra hole for the control wire when I get there. The post has been cut to the same length as the first one, 18ft if I remember right. The, er, 'case' the arm sits in is a simple fold up, with a strip of brass soldered round to get the depth. I just 'rolled' the strip round a till-roll center, followed by a handle of the craft knife and there it was. The instructions aren't chronological so it's really important to work out the correct order - like painting the arm and opaque glass before assembly.
     

    The lamp has been prepared as usual, and now it's glue and paint drying time.
     
     

  18. Miserable

    Signal Kit Build - Paint

    By Miserable,


    SIgnals
    And so to painting and finishing. First off was to pop out to the garden and spray it with good old Hafords etch primer (the can's about eight years old and still going strong). Before I did this I intended to mask the lamp 'lenses' with a bit of Blue Tac but forgot. I got away with it. The signal was then appropriately decorated. The black is possibly a bit shinier that intended, I'm going with having a very keen S&T Dept rather than mess about. The grey is just the aforementioned Halfords Primer. I messed about for ages (earlier posts) trying to find the 'perfect' grey/aluminium colour and finally, after much opening of tins of grey paint and mixing such, picked a Humbrol grey - that is exactly the same colour as the primer. Hey ho!
     
    Then the control rods/wire/things were added and finally the blind for the back of the lamp fixed and painted. Apart from touching up a bit of grey where the black missed all is done.
     
    Other activities have been going on, clay, paint, signal wires, painting signal wires, 'rooting' the trees properly and so on. With most of the on-going stuff being more scenic until I can get more track and/or buildings and walls I think the next workshop project will be building second banner repeater. This isn't for the layout, but you get two in the kit so I may as well make it and put it on eBay rather than let it fade into the spares box.

  19. Miserable

    Signal Kit Build - 4

    By Miserable,


    SIgnals
    With the LED now fixed in the lamp, the leads got fed down the post. I half expected them to get caught up on the rod providing the pivot for the counter balance, but all went swimmingly. Twisting them together may have helped. The camera's really struggling close-ups today, wrong phase of the moon or something.

     
    And then the lamp  was glued on, making sure it lines up with the spectacle lens holes.
     

     
    Followed by the track circuit plaque. I placed this as per the instructions, but I feel it's a bit low. Maybe another GWR/BR)WR) thing. I've concluded it can stay there as it's not 'wrong' as such.
     

     
    So to the lampman's platform. I've made my signal 19ft tall so I 'have to' have one - though to be honest I'd have one whatever the height because they look nice. I got a bit puzzled here (not that that is all that difficult) as the platform comes with a couple legs sticking out that are to be shaped round the post, but not long enough to meet at the front. A nice cuppa perusing Google, and the picture on the front of the instructions, seems to imply the platform sits on some sort of frame (part of the platform) that's fixed to the post with a strap going round it. After some consideration I cut the legs off and made up a strap with legs for the platform to sit on. It looks the part anyway. (Yes, it needed a tweak in the right hand photo).
     

     
    And then soldered to the post in the prescribed position. (A bit of an optical illusion here)
     

     
    Followed by the ladder.
     

     
    Next is the handrail round the platform. This looked awfully scary and fragile, but it all went just fine.
     

     
    The ladder has a strap securing it to the post somewhere around halfway up. The kit provides some material for this, but it's not long enough to do it in one piece. A rummage around in the etch off cuts box provided a strip of brass long enough to make it in on one piece.
     

     
    Add the finial and there it is done. The blind that goes behind the lamp I'll fit after painting the arm, same for the spectacle lenses. The operating rods go on last of all (because they get in the way of painting).
     
    Some searching has revealed the other kit I keep referring to that I built the other signal from is from Scale Signal Supply (via Invertrain). This one, MSE, is identified as being a GWR tubular post signal, whereas the SSS one is identified as being a GWR/BR(WR) tubular post affair. I guess that explains the differences, such as they are. Which is 'best'? Neither, really. Both make a very nice signal, just the MSE one seems a bit more GWR and presumably earlyish BR, whereas the SSS one is definitely BR, so take your pick. The MSE one has a few more options, and the instructions are well written but you'd need to get up to speed on terminology a bit, and be able to work without diagrams in the most part. The SSS one is simpler in terms of making a stop or distant in one style only, no calling on arm (3ft) option as far as I remember but with pretty pictures in the instructions ; sketches, really. The MSE one comes with an etch for the handrail round the lampman's platform, whereas the SSS one you have to make it with wire and position the uprights as you see fit (the plastic center from a till roll makes a good former) - hardly arduous though. I have no requirement for any more signals, but if I did I'd go with SSS - simply because it's more 1980. I mentioned at the beginning that the instructions for this build recommends using three different temperature solders, but I built it only using low-melt with the iron on full tilt. Don't try this if you are not confident with a soldering iron. You could easily build it with glue if soldering is scary.
     
  20. Miserable

    Signal Kit Build - 3

    By Miserable,


    SIgnals
    The part of the instructions, which have only a couple of sketches and reminded me today of Airfix instructions back in the day when they purely text, is to add either a signal wire pulley, or a crank arm (cosmetic). This is different from the other kit I did which just offered a crank, so naturally I've gone with the pulley - though this is I suspect not prototypical for the period. It uses the same part as the bracket on the post and folds up with a pulley on another short bit of rod. This is soldered to the baseplate pointing either in-line or at right angles to the signal. The wire is coming from the front in my case. I may have to lift it a bit later.
     

     
    Now I have to go off-script as the next bit is fitting the lamp and bracket. Since I'm lighting the signal an LED needs to go in the lamp. This was much the same as outlined back in the dummy making posts, except this time the bracket needs a hole in as well for the wires coming down from the lamp. The lamp is a different shape to last kit, I'm guessing this is a GWR/BR(WR) thing but no worries. The front lens and the tell-tale at the back are not in line. By angling the pin vice I managed to get them to meet in the middle in the hole drilled up to get the LED in position.  Before drilling the lamp I dug out a spare lamp from the previous kit (a bag full of signalling eBay extras the seller chucked in!) just to make sure which I wanted to use.
    The one on the left, with it's bracket, is the 'proper' one, the one on the right is the spare. As there will be wires I can't solder this so I was pondering two glue joints vs. one. I decided to go with the kit lamp and bracket (the lamp hadn't been drilled at this point)
     

     
    And then, while trial fitting the LED, the bracket vanished. Another 30 minutes on the floor failed to find it. Bloody aliens again I expect. Still, not a disaster as I can cite BRiness for having to use the spare. This is it drilled out.
     

     
    Next a hole is needed in the post. I marked it out as per the instructions and it turns out the new lamp is a direct swap for the lost one. So I filed a small flat on the post behind where the lamp bracket will go to give the glue half a chance, and also used the flat to drill a hole for the wires. I may need to open out the hole a bit, the wires go through (they are tiny) but its a bit tight perhaps. 
     

     
    The LEDs, fortunately, come with long leads so the resistor can be cut off to allow feeding the wires down the post. So, test the LED (that would be annoying) and stick it in the lamp with Evostick. All good, glue drying time. I'll probably find that bracket sitting staring at me in a minute...
     
     
     
     
     
     
  21. Miserable

    Signal Kit Build - 2

    By Miserable,


    SIgnals
    On the way to the workbench I passed a flock of newly arrived tail lamps making their way towards their traditional nesting habitat; to whit some buffer stops. Beautiful plumage.

     
    And so session number 2 with the signal kit. The next step in the instructions is to make the arm. All quite straightforward, but in the absence of any non-soldery pins to hold things square I did this by lying it face down on a bit of wood with a hole drilled for end of the pivot wire. Then looking down from above I lined up the other hole by sight, holding it with the point of a needle file while soldering. It worked. Hoorah!
     

     
    Next is the bit of tube that forms the pivot for the arm. Following the instructions to make a jig I reached for the 2mm drill bit. And then reached a bit more. Nowhere. Never mind, to Plan B. Well actually it was kind of Plan A as I did this on the previous kit - after marking the place I filed, with a round needle file, a small notch in the post. The cut to length tube and post get a dollop of flux and the tube placed. I guess it's surface tension or something (possibly quantum) but tube either wants to 'stick' parallel to the post or sit in the dimple at 90', i.e. where I want it. A blob of solder and done. And guess what is in the photo, top left...
     

     
    Next the butt, which is what the wider bit of the post at the bottom is called I now know, was chamfered at the top to get the slopey join and soldered.
     

     
    And then the 1/8in hole is made in the base plate (this is kind of optional). Being of the metric persuasion I don't have that drill, but 3mm bit and a couple of minutes with needle file did just fine. I then used my square (one of my favourite tools, sad isn't it) to get it square and soldered away.
     

     
    The instructions suggest cutting a slot for the ladder in the base next; rightly or wrongly I went for a couple holes because Monday or something.
     

     
    Next is the counter balance. This is simple enough, but when soldering the bracket part of the assembly to the post I used a paper casket between the arm and the bracket so it didn't get soldered too. This is just a bit of paper added to the sandwich in the appropriate place to stop the solder creeping along the rod and fixing to the crank, just tear it out afterwards. Now spot the mistake...
     

     
    Yep - counter intuitively the balance weights (I opted for no extra weights, as the supplied ones appear somewhat large) stick out to the front of the signal, which is fine. But on the other side. Then did it again. And then on the third attempt got it right. I hope.
     

     
    And now it's brew time.
  22. Miserable

    Signal Kit Build

    By Miserable,


    SIgnals
    Whilst painting and decorating, fitting fishplates and the final bits of rodding and signal wires proceeds in stops and starts (they aren't my favourite activities) I decided building a nice kit would be a pleasant diversion. Though I'm itching to build the 43two1 Models BR 20T brake van kit (I built one a few years ago, a delightful kit) reason suggested making the MSE signal kit for the platform would be more practical.
     
    Those of the tidy workshop persuasion might like to go and have a lie down at this point. Whilst tidying up (i.e. making a space) I found the lamp off the buffer stops mentioned in an earlier post as being lost in action on the floor - right in front of me hidden in plain sight. 30 mins I was crawling around on the floor!

    I've made one of these before, or at least I thought I had, and had kept the jigs I'd made for the loop at the top of the ladder and such. However this kit has a loop in the etch. I'm not sure if the kit has been updated or the earlier one wasn't in fact not an MSE kit at all.  Anyhow, it will be interesting to compare the finished results.

    So what do you get? Well, everything bar paint and solder it seems. The etches are nice and crisp as I've found with other MSE kits, and the post and ladder are surely 'tall' enough for any reasonable height of signal. Options for short or long home arms are provided, as is a distant flavour one - lots of bits left over for the S&T sub-diorama. The post includes a broader bit to slide over to form the step in the post.

    The instructions run to 4 pages  (2x double sided) and are, to say the least, comprehensive. There's a conversion chart for choosing the height and so on, and recommendations about which solder to use where and such. I'm pretty sure this isn't the kit I built before now. I will be making it working, with a sub mm LED in the lamp as per the other one. Time to actually RTFM and make a start after tea.
  23. Miserable

    Fencing Clay.

    By Miserable,


    Scenery
    With fence/barricade/thing now all nice and dried it's was time to place it. I'm not quite sure what's going to happen past the points yet, so there may, or may not, be more. When the glue finally decided to set clay was worked around the posts, spread on a little PVA for grip. At the back the ground falls away rapidly to the cess, which will be decorated to look like its kind happened over the years rather than any sort of wall or such. With the posts and back done the ground was skimmed with clay to add some uneveness as it's intended not to look like a concrete slab.
     

     
    Now the paint's arrived, a lot of ballast weathering is staring me in the face... egads!  onwards and upwards..
  24. Miserable

    Yard Fence/Barricade.

    By Miserable,


    Scenery
    I think I mentioned earlier that I fancied having some heavy duty fencing alongside the reception road run-round. In these 'interesting' times it's proved unviable to get hold of just two lengths of bullhead rail to make it as I envisaged, but that may have been a blessing. I have a length of flat bottom rail which I vaguely considered using, but that was a no go since although it bends nicely left and right so to speak, up and down without twisting isn't easy. I can't help wondering if bullhead would be all that different. 
     
    No matter, yet another Plan B has been enacted. Using sleepers for the uprights (I got a bag of the old narrow Peco point timbers form a wag on eBay, nearly used them all now!) and 12ft x 10in. planks (yep, good old stirrers again) I've made some sections of fence/barrier. These will stick out above ground by about 4ft and are intended to look a bit Heath-Robinson rather than any sort of 'standard' design. 

    Making them was really pretty easy - it's just lengths of sleeper with the planks super-glued to them. Five posts at a time seems to be a good size such that they won't fall apart being handled. There's a bunch of planks to fill the gaps when installed. A couple of posts in each secrThe sleepers are in fact u-channels and much as I wanted to leave as was, I've added some caps to hide the shape. Everything then got a dollop of (surprise!) sleeper grime which was attacked with the chalks when dry to hopefully give a 'been there for a long time' look. 

    Next is to fit them and clay round the posts and then across the yard.
  25. Miserable

    Now Awaiting Paint.

    By Miserable,


    Scenery
    So having settled on Railmatch acrylic Sleeper Grime... I've run out. More on order. There's a coupe of pics in different lighting of the test piece now it's fully dry. The difference in the light is just the camera being a few inches higher in one that the other.

     
    As the pullies have arrived, I've made up the three sets needed for the platform signal and dummy I'd omitted. I've used Design No.3(a-198) for these - because I'd not ordered enough. Rather than making a pair represent one pulley, I've use single ones spaced a bit. The thing is stuck into sleeper off-cut so it can be superglued rather than soldered. Just two more single ones to go... probably.
     

     
    And to the manholes. I put one on a spot of flat ground and it looked like an after thought, so I've made a surround to represent the top of the manhole which can be sunk in a bit. I did the circle one first as it seemed the hardest, but to be honest plasticard is so easy to cut that was a bit OTT worrying about it. Decoration will take place in a bit. In the mean time a spot of planning of Soddingham's  drainage system - nothing scientific, just to avoid placement looking entirely random.
     
    The signal box has also been officially planted. I moved it back a bit as the rampy thing over the rodding at the front was a tad cramped. With this in place I built the ground up to suit, and the box walls to also remove the 'plonked there' look. Some grassy bits and stuff will appear when I'm feeling artistic. I could really do with getting the shed kits to complete the signal box area set up.
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