DGO

All three had type 3A Boxes with the extra row of windows at the top, New Milton had it's just off the end of Platform 1, the box at Sway was inset into Platform 1 but I have no pics of the one at Hinton Admiral to be able to know if it was in platform or at the end of the platform, all three boxes were so far as I can tell about the same size. By the mid 1960's New Milton also had a Goods shed, adjacent to Platform 2, given that the Shed was a lovely Green I'm going to guess and say it was likely a wooden structure clad in corugated iron sheeting. Unfortunately I've only found a couple of pictures of that, neither of the other two appears to have ever had a goods shed. Mew Milton had extensive coal staithes and apparently a lot of farm traffic in the early years, one of the original coal merchants offices later became the Galleon Taxis office and still survives I'm just doing it as an exercise so will shorten the platforms in order to fit everything on a 2ft x 4ft board but will go from the road bridge to just beyond the signal box

Funnily enough I'm just about to start a little exercise in modelling up the buildings for New Milton Station (though of course they were originally identical to Sway and Hinton Admiral for the main buildings with slight differences at the signal boxes, will be looking at setting them in 1966, since in 1967 they ripped out all the sidings and signal boxes at all three locations

I have found that using resin printers getting muntins (the horizontal and vertical dividers between panes of glass) down to 0.3mm square is possible, in 00 scale thats about 2cm wide if you want narrower than that I'd go with laser cut, use thin card and laminate up the frame for more detail, if you want leaded lights on a window, print black or better yet dark grey onto heavy overhead transparency film, many copy shops have this facility, of the 3 methods the resin frames are probably the most brittle, but I would use them if I wanted to do stone window surrounds/frames I'd be tempted to use a laser to recreate wooden, metal or plastic window frames

I know I raised the issue but I do like how it looks so mabe it meets the rule of cool

I re read this after I typed a long reply and realised that there are three ways or reading this So if I've read it as everyone else As Dave says above lasers are normally only able to move along the x and y axis giving you right angle cuts only, in theory (and practice) you can however alter the angle of the laser bed, if the parts are narrow then you could add a bevel, but if the parts have any sort of length they would end up sticking up above the head of the laser or down into the base of the laser. Me I would cut the parts off square but slightly over length and use the laser to mark the exact spot where the end was, then I'd use a jig to set the correct bevel angle I wanted and use a sanding disk or belt to put on the final correct bevel But then it occured to me that maybe you meant that you wanted to cut the table like a pizza in which case yes no problems at all with that Finally it occured to me that maybe you were trying to cut a complex joint, in that case the answer is almost certainly No, though it might be possible to 3d print such a joint. Essentially Lasers are great for cutting any flat shape but lousy for cutting a 3d shape. So if you can cut out a version from a flat sheet of paper you can cut it on a laser otherwise the answer is probably not David

Try a very thin layer of gloss mod podge and use an airbrush or a straw to blow small ripples on the surface no lake or pond is usually totally flat and certainly not with swans on it . Resin often takes a very long time to fully cure to a really hard surface and until it does its easy to mark and impossible to polish out all you can do is hide the marks as best you can

OK it's nice but theres no counterbalace to counteract the jib, it would in real life either topple straight down the front of the building or rip out the front corner of the wall as it went over, other than that though I like it

wood can swell if it gets moist and stick, a couple of flat aluminium bars ought not to be too expensive as sliders

You have managed to get a really smooth action on those doors, great work

I got one of these a while ago as I needed a long strip of irregular stonework to go along a riverbank, it's not bad and at least you do not get a straight line at the joint of the two parts, can't remember where I ordered from, price wise it was neither cheap nore excessive

I note they are only shipping to USA and it looks as if it will only work with aluminium

Alternatively if you don't think you can drill the hole acurately, cut a door core slightly narrower than required, glue the wire to the edge, then wrap the wire and both sides of the door with a piece of paper rather like the cover of a hardbacked book if the door has panels you can even cut them out of the paper, seal the paper before painting to stop the texture showing through, this does actually work and I have used the method in the past. If the doors are big and heavy with exposed strap hinges you could actually make real strap hinges with thin brass shim or again substtute paper for brass shim but these are very easy to damage in paper, they do work though, just wrap around a thin stiff wire (piano wire is good) I've used these before to make opening H0 scale shutter hinges

Sawdust extracted from the cutting process tends to end up being compressed in effectively giant vacum cleaner bags, this is then either further processed or burnt on site, proicessing might be turning it into some form of board, turning into pellets to be used foir burning or cat litter, or just being sold as sawdust

Given the things that can be achieved with RC vehicles at H0 scale I would say its possible, the only thing is it would be expensive since every coach would have to change gauge and it would have to synch ith the change in track

The Building with the Columns is I think still there, used to be HM Coastguard

How times have changed, fancy metal tables and chairs instead of cars parked at the bottom of the Customs House these days where they turned it into a Bistro and of course no rails down the road

You could use the emboss command BUT this only embosses to a fixed depth so doesn't really look right for natural textures, a better choice is to export the parts you wish to texture into other software such as blender and use that to apply the texture

Apparently there are 3 locos but only one diesel engine that can be inserted into any of the 3 when required

Thats a big building 64cm equals 800M long in real life = 10.52M at 1:76 or did you mean 64 mm ? That would be an 80M long building in real life or 1052.6mm at 1:76 still large but reasonable for a railway building on a layout

Is this the new loco that can run on Electric or Diesel ? I think they were going to have it so that they can do late night emergency runs to Wengen with less staff, previously not only did you require a driver but also staff to run the power station down in Lauterbrunnen, plus possibly signals, I think the idea was to have a dual option that could head up the mountain on a lot less notice, I would imagine it would also be handy for repairs post avalanches/mud slides that tend to take out the overhead power

Great picture, train on the bridge across the Schwarz Lutschine (sp?) just outside of Grund Station, I think it is coming down as it looks like the light over the cab is on

For things made of laser cut mdf ? & Plywood they do look like painted cast metal, well done.

The goods shed reminds me of the one at Wengen station in the 1970's all be it reversed

I think this shows the typical Swiss way of doing things, generally when the line was installed they made sure all the stations were on the flat, if that meant raising or lowering the surrounding ground level to make it flat thats what they did. If you specifically want a spot where the track is on a gradient you need to look for somewhere that was added after the line was constructed, a halt or passing spot added at some later date where they either didn't want to try and flatten out a bit of track or could not for technical reasons, on my favourite WAB all the original stations were created with either level or almost level platforms, however one halt that was simply created to take on water in the days of steam never had a platform and is on a gradient and two other stops which were added later are on steep enough gradients that you can easily slide down them in the winter!

Thyis made me smile, Keyhaven is just down the road from me, though I'm pretty certain the only rails near there were the ones at the castle on Hurst Spit With regard to 3d printing at 4mm scale I think we are there now, I recently 3D printed some window frames with 0.3mm muntins which printed perfectly those should be just about perfect for your glazing bars I've only got an early Elegoo Mars Pro and more modern 3d printers have finer resolutions