Steve Hewitt

The work continues.......... John has just sent me a progress report which our followers might find interesting? Despite some "forced labour" time, spent decorating in the house, he has started installing the point rodding at the ends of Platforms 1 & 2. This is the sort of thing he's doing: In this picture, the crank on the left (the old, dirty one) is actually operational. It is driven from below the baseboard by the point motor. This is how the points actually operate. The new rodding and facing point locks etc are still bright nickel silver. They are not yet linked together, so they can be removed easily for ballasting! In this shot, the white lines indicate where the "Barrow Crossings" will be located. The point to the rear of this shot has no Facing Point Lock as this is a none passenger carrying road. With eleven platforms, four sidings and a couple end-loading bays, all with access to Fast and Slow, Up and Down lines, there's a lot more of this work to do. I can't wait to see how John is going to route it all back into the Signal Box. As he says "Its going to get interesting" Steve.

Hi Jon, I used to get quite concerned by the various "buzzes" coming from servos, but I've solved it by going partially deaf. Steve.

Hi Jason, That EM mention sounds very interesting??????? Steve.

Hello Grahame, Yes, the servos are always under power. I'm not sure what you can hear when the signals are "at danger". I can hear the servos when they move, but I can't hear anything when they are steady. Steve.

I suppose its better if I put the video link in here, as readers may not follow my Signals thread. Here it is, just me setting up a batch of signals I've just completed: Steve.

Doesn't time fly when you're......... Its more than two months since I reported any progress on this project, for which I apologise. The signals are now almost complete, so here is the latest state: This shows them on the bench installed in the "Transport & Test" frame. They are connected up to a GF Controls new 8-Way Controller. Although there are 8 arms on the models, only five are operational. The Distant is "Fixed" as in the prototype. The two smaller brackets only have the right hand arm working, as the route signalled to the left doesn't extend beyond the pointwork on the model, so it can never be set. I've made this short video of me setting up the servos, which I hope explains how it all works. Steve.

Hi Michael, I've just checked on the website, and there is a Tel. No and Postal Address on the Contacts page. If you can't make progress, please PM me and I'll see if I can help. Steve.

Hi, The "eight-way unit" was received in the post. The unit works very well, and has a couple of extra features not seen on the standard "two-way unit". 1. Each servo has its own LED to indicate its "ON" or "OFF" state. 2. The logic of "Switch Open" for signal Clear can be inverted to be "Switch Closed" for signal Clear is desired. The actual software for the servo motion is I believe identical to the "two-way unit". The operation of each servo is sequential, so each one has to complete its movement before the next one can start. This means it is less suitable for use on "slotted" signals which require two servos to move simultaneously under certain conditions (also route Indicators if you use a separate servo for the route display, as I do). The setting of the "eight-way unit" is done through a plug-in "setter Box". The connection is a quite long "curly cable" telephone type connection. The cost of the "eight-way unit" is £75.00. Initially, however, you will need a "Starter Kit" which comprises one "eight-way unit" and a "Setter Box" and Cable. This comes at a price of £90.00, with the Setter Box being re-usable on multiple "eight-way units", so you only need the one. Prices are "plus P&P". I'm just completing a batch of signals and hope to make a short video of them using an "eight-way unit". I'll post a link to it on my signals Topic if I'm successful (at making the video). Steve.

The first Buffer Stops are fitted..... John has just let me have a couple of pictures of the first Buffer Stop in situ: He wrote: "Here at last are two shots of the buffers having been now fitted by me and scenically blended in by Rob, (at least the platform 1 one). The second shot you can see the lamp lit, but I'm not sure if they are taken a little bit too close. What do you think ?" Steve. p.s. John, Les and Brian will be demonstrating at the Preston show this weekend. I'm sure they will be more than happy to discuss their work on Liverpool Lime Street, so why not drop by for a chat?

The problem I have is the size of the servos, compared to the 4mm scale signals. I've tried the very small ones (3.5 gram) previously and found a few difficulties with quality. Relatively large base plates just become a nuisance. I'll persevere! Steve.

Great work Jon, I must try your method of mounting servos, and installing the signals, sometime. Steve.

Hi, On this Ground Signal the base plate is necessary as the signal is smaller than 1/4in hole over which it will stand. The 1/4 in hole is smaller than anything else I've used previously. It has to be large enough to allow the cranked end of the operating wire to pass through. This sort of thing. That's a 5/16in tube with a ground signal on top. The other very important feature of a Base Plate is to anchor the signal's ladder. I don't think you'll find I've ever suggested interlocking square tubes, as I've never used them. I have used telescopic Round Tubes on some removable signals on our Club Layouts many years ago. In summary, I use a base plate on which to build both the signal above and the mounting and operating mechanism below. It is the reference against which everything is checked for squareness etc. Steve.

Hi OzzyO, The 1/4in brass tube isn't fixed in the baseboard. The fit is a close one, so friction keeps the signal in place, even on prtable layouts, but allows removal. The tube doubles as a "Handle" during construction. The second hole locates the 1/16in tube whiich can be quite long depending on the baseboard thickness. Making the "stub" longer would increase printing cost quite considerably. The principle behing the various tubes is one I employ on all the signals I make. See this Topic for detailed explanation: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/59687-semaphore-signals-4mm-scale-mainly/page-8&do=findComment&comment=1180777 If you follow this topic for several posting, I hope you see my reasons for the various tubes etc. The "printing" of the baseplate and "stub" just allow the principles to be followed easily, using Resin rather than Brass and Nickel Silver for the signal. (I haven't found a flux which will allow me to solder Resin to Brass) Steve.

Latest developments on the Ground signal; Les has modified the design a little to facilitate insatallation. The 10mm square baseplate is provided for the signal to sit on. Beneath this is a spigot which will fit inside a 1/4in dia brass tube. Through this are two holes: One to route the fibre optic (pale blue) down through the baseboard. The second to take a 1/16in Brass tube (yellow), which will be a guide and bearing for the operating wire (brown), which in turn is sleeved with 1/32in brass tube (also brown) to give smooth operation. The 1/4in brass tube will make a handle for assembling and painting the signal, and then for its location on a baseboard. It will be long enough to ensure the servo assembly is located accurately. Steve.

Hi Keith, I think others have beaten me to it! Steve.

Hi Jon, Thanks for your comment. I believe the Transfers are actually photographs of prototype signals, which is why the extra details are present. The "folded edge" seen on the reverse of the Distant is just printed! Each of the transfers in the set of twelve seems to be of a different prototype, with subtle differences in weathering apparent. Steve.

Hi Barry, Yes, I used to use PVA or one of the proprietory glazing fluids, but colouring was always the problem. Using a good leather punch with a rotary head for choice of six sizes, produces lenses very accurately and quickly. Once the spectacle paint has dried properly, I attach the lens on the rear with a small drop of Super Glue. Steve.

An experimental diversion….. One of the tasks which often causes me some anguish is painting signal arms. Stop signals aren’t too bad, but Distants can be a right pain. I recently purchased a set of waterslide transfers from Chiltern Modelling Solutions which are intended for use on MSE and Scalelink signal arms. Transfers are provided for the front and rear of a dozen of each type on a single sheet, together with a few others for miniature arms, calling on signals and ground discs. I started by painting the arms with Halfords white primer. The spectacles were painted black and everything allowed to dry thoroughly. The spectacles were glazed with MSE glazing, then the white parts given a thin coat of clear gloss varnish. Following the instructions provided, I applied the transfers to one Home and one Distant signal arm. Once they had dried I had to touch in the edges of each arm with Red, Yellow and Black as appropriate. Juist a thin coat of clear satin varnish needed now to seal everything. I think there may be a future in this method, and I’ll certainly be using it again for Upper Quadrant distants. Shame there don’t seem to be any available for GWR arms! I have a three doll splitting distant to do sometime soon. Steve.

Hi Robin, I've had the following by email from John, who checked the facts with Rob first: "The paint spraying Rob did yesterday was designed to colour the sleepers. The rail sides and chair detail to be brush painted, eventually to be followed by the ballasting. The colour we were looking for was to blend in with the existing colour of the sleepers in the cutting, at one end and an almost black "colour" within the platforms at the other. On a previous visit Rob and I had tried a small area by brush with "Humbrol Matt 155". This looked fine and we were both happy with the match. I bought in some more of this colour ready for yesterday's visit, and to our dissatisfaction, when we sprayed the colour on, we felt that over a large area the colour was not right, it had a green/yellow cast. We were not sure whether there was a difference in the paint between tins, or the fact that this time we were using an airbrush to spray it on. After some head scratching and playing about with paint I had in stock, Rob gave the whole area another light dusting with "Revell Matt 84". This gave the result you see in the pictures. In fact it looks far better in the flesh, and we are both very happy with the outcome. The point I would make is that I feel the colour you use is a very subjective and personal issue, and I would suggest you play about for yourself with a few colours till you get what YOU think looks right. There is no hard and fast rule on this one it's purely up to the individual what he or she thinks is right. It's your train set, to hell with what anyone else thinks !!" Steve.

Over here it's spelt Lancashire! Steve

Another busy day.... Rob and I have spent the day with John: John had already masked up the area we were to work on, and here is some of the trackwork awaiting Rob's attention with the airbrush: You can see some of John's work he's done recently on the Point Rodding etc. The paint is applied, starting with a good deep colour for the sleepers, which darkens to "dirty black" in the platform area: John is helping with the portable masking to avoid overspray. Once all this had been applied and allowed to dry over a very pleasant lunch, we could start on painting the rail edges and chairs with "Rust". All the track from the start of the cutting back to the buffer stops on platforms 1 to 5 are to be painted like this. It's not really that dark in the railway room! Just my c..p photography Once this is done, the point rodding, facing point locks etc have to be installed followed by the ballast! A lot more hours work ahead....... Also during the afternoon John and I determined the precise location for the first two ground signals we will have to install. The view from underneath shows the locations of the signals and direction of movement controlled: This will also allow me to build the servo installation in such a way that it will not internfere with any existing infrastructure: Lots of work to be done before we can start operating sessions again. Steve.

Thanks for your observations everyone. I'll go for a single post. Steve.

Some more progress reported by John: Sunday: "All is now ready for Steve and Rob's visit on Wednesday. The area to be sprayed with the sleeper colour is now masked up ready. Hopefully Steve and I will then be able to determine where the new ground signals have to be located and how the servos will be mounted on the underside of the baseboards. Another little job done is the pre-fitting of the buffer stops. Rob will be able to take them home for weathering on Wednesday. On their return, I will fix them, and then wire the lamp LED's up to the 12v. supply." Monday: "Had Brian here today, so we put boards 10A, & 10B up so I could finish pre-fitting all the buffer stops ready for Rob to take on Wednesday for weathering. They don't half look impressive all lined up !! Note the roof is off the booking office. Brian has taken this home (homework), to remove the plastikard from under the skylights so we can see the light coming from the internal lights I am going to fit. (LED's.)"

Hi Michael, When you build the baseboards, try to keep a space of a couple of inches under each signal clear of obstructions for the servo motors! It'll make installation so much easier if there are no cross-beams or point motors etc. to work round. I've been looking at the design of the signal with a sighting board. The LMS drawings show two posts, usually side by side, but one behind the other if necessary. That might be just where a home and distant are used, to keep the wind load under control. Do you know if your signal will require twin posts, or was only a single post used because there was only one sighting board? Its not clear to me on the photo you provided. Steve.

Hi Jamie, As John said in his progress report, the track will be painted overall, then the rail sides picked out to show the rust. Point rodding, facing point locks and barrow ways will follow, the ultimately the ballasting will be done and weathering completed. Steve.