Steve Hewitt

End of "Chairs" for now?........... John has sent me an update on his "Chairing" which he's completed as far as intended on the "spine" baseboards: Hi Steve, As promised, attached are two shots of the completed track work. The first one is taken from the same viewpoint as the last ones for comparison. The second one hopefully shows better all the work done. Next job (I've already started), is to run through a wheel set with the deepest flanges to check for flange clearance, then check for any electrical faults I may have caused to the droppers etc. Then it's over to Rob with the airbrush to paint it all an overall track colour. Finally all the rail sides will have to be painted. (And that's before brew time !!) After all that, we start on point rodding/facing point locks, and barrow ways !!! Cheers, John. P.S. BALLASTING LOOMS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Progress has been made: The batch of four signals I started on has now become five with the addition of a Fixed Distant on a short lattice post. Here they all are, ready for the paintshop: A good scrub and polish, then a bath in cellulose thinners before several THIN coats of Halfords White Primer. More soon I hope. Steve.

Isn't it great to have such helpful friends..... Those who have been following my signal topics or the Lime Street Station story on RMweb will be familiar with Les Green's name. We've recently been working together on the LNWR Ground Sgnals using 3D Printing and Etched N/S. (See their own topic on RMweb) At the same time, Les has produced some really excellent etches to help me out with a part of signal building I often struggle with. Namely, scratch building the Angle Iron Brackets so common on many semaphore signals. This is one of a pair of etched sheets of N/S I received from him last week. This 0.2mm thick sheet contains several items for the Ground Signals and three designs of Angle Iron Bracket. This first one is required for the batch of North British bracket signals I'm building for the Carlisle project: This is the one missing in the shot above: And when its been carefully folded and reinforced with solder: The next one is for an LMS No 5 Bracket: Commonly used on bracket signals with two dolls spaced for adjacent lines. The etch: Being folded in my "Hold & Fold" - a really useful Christmas present a year or two back. Folded and solderup for strength: Finally for now, the smaller and simpler bracket common on two doll brackets for diverging routes: With these to hand I can make rapid progress.... Steve.

Michael, That's very interesting. Its amazing what information comes to light among RMwebbers. I've sent you a PM on this subject. Steve.

Another step forward...... Les called round this lunchtime and brought me the 3D Printed Ground Signals and the Nickel Silver etches he's been doing for me. First I tried out the printed signal bodies, to ensure the holes will be usable. There are two which will carry the pivots for the Signal Arm and Balance arm. These are 0.45mm dia, and will have suitable Lace Pins for the shafts: The third hole is for the Optical Fibre which will carry the light from the LED below the baseboard to shine through the spectacles This is printed on a curve, so that the fibre will avoid the blinder when it emerges from the rear of the signal body. These are the etched parts for these signals: First the Back Blinders, with two holes in each, one for the pivot and the other for the operating wire. These are the arms. Each is in two parts which will be soldered together. The rear part has a hole to locate the pivot shaft, the front is half etched to give the distinctive beading around the arm. Finally the balance weight on its arm. This again is in three parts to give the weight some "body". The front hole is for the pivot, and the rear one for the operating wire. I just hope my eyes and hands are up to assembling this lot! Steve.

Steady progress..... Just to show John's keeping his nose well up to the grindstone, here is his latest progress report! Compare this shot taken just two weeks ago. I believe he hopes to complete the remainder of the pointwork in these shots before Rob comes to do the painting etc. Then we hope to get all the boards up and do some serious running again!!!!!!!!!!! That will still leave more than half the platforms and sidings still to be "Chaired". Steve. p.s. I've heard from Les today that he's received the etched parts I need for the ground signals, so I hope to get my hands on them in the not too distant future. From his comment, "How the **** you are going to handle and solder the small bits is beyond belief!!" they may be a bit of a challenge. edited for spelling

John and i have agreed that we'll try to install ground signals as shown on the plan Mike referred us to. The signal I have under construction will be completed and held "in stock" for use elsewhere on the layout. Steve.

Hi Mike, Thanks very much for that. Its information I've not seen previously, or not recalled. It might mean we review our plan, particularly if the LNWR Ground Signals we're working on are successful! Steve.

John has prepared this sketch to help me design the signal's installation: From this, and the photos I received earlier, I think I can use a spacer between the baseboard and the servo mounting board which will not fould the Point Motor and allow the servo board to clear the wiring loom. Steve.

In the meantime.... Whilst John has been getting on with the Chairing etc. he's had time to think about other items which are required in the area he's working on. One item, which we've known we needed, but hadn't finalised, is a signal to control movements off the "Back Road". This is the road, with a couple of short sidings which is to the North of Platform 1. Its where the old LNWR turntable used to be, and near the steam plant. We've now agreed it should be a short LNWR signal with a short arm, located quite near the buttress of the bridge. John has been surveying the ground in the area, and has sent me these site photos: This is the location for the signal, showing the footprint for the baseplate, with the drill marking the centre of the post, and therefore the 1/2in dia Foundation Tube which will pass through the baseboard.. Looking up from below the baseboard we can see its all a bit congested! The pilot hole is shown at the 16mm mark on the ruler. The track runs immediately over the adjacent point motor. The buffer stops are to the right from here, so direction of travel for this signal is to the left. Rather than start re-routing the cables etc. I've decided to mount the servo motor and LED for the signal on a "Stand-Off" board, which will allow the mechanism to be located clear of everything. I can see a happy hour with the off-cuts of wood, and superglue in the near future. I'll post the details of the signal build on my Signalling topic 4mm_Signals John is also keeping up is "Chairing", as this shows: That's Platforms 3 and 4, with the foundations for the gantry exposed. Since he took this shot and before our discussion on the phone, he's managed to complete this point apart from the Fishplates. More soon I hope.... Steve.

Geoff Peters, of GF Controls recommends using a shielded cable between a Controller and its Servos if the distance is large, or interferance from other Layout Circuits is likely. I understand this can be particularly so with DCC systems. My personal experience of "twitching" servos is limitted to the Power On twitch. I've never had a servo twitch during normal operation Steve.

Tools I forgot to mention: A pair of "Needlework" snips. For cutting brass bits from etched sheets. You can completely remove the half etched tab right up to the side of the component. When I get my PC back I'll photograph the pair I use. My butane torch for heavy duty soldering. You can get them in good Kitchen Suppliers. Needs to have an adjustable flame which gives a fine point. These two can really save time and effort. Steve. With Thanks and Best Wishes for a Happy New Year to all who find my ramblings of some interest.

Hello Pete I'll try to answer your questions, but unfortunately my PC has "gone sick", so I'm having to use iPad, on which typing isn't as easy!!!!! Kits? An excellent place to start. If you are modelling a particular prototype you may well need to use separate components. Bases? The Lime Street signals I've removed are from Platform locations which haven't yet been completed. They will eventually have planking or stone slabs added. Most often just a blending coat of paint is all that is necessary. Installation. This left to the layout owners. (Cop out!) Tools? Binocular magnifying lenses. Lots of light. Then, general hand tools are all you require. Power tools can make life easier, and can save time. Most used: Stainless steel rule, 150m long. Engineers square, 4in. Parallel jaw pliers. Snipe nose pliers, extra fine point. Tweezers. Pin vices HSS Drills 0.4mm upwards. Piercing saw with very fine blade. Hand file No 4 cut 8in long for brass (best you you can find) Cheap file No 2 cut for White Metal (keep files separate) Temp controlled soldering iron. Small bench vice (jaws must be parallel and close fully) Garryflex block or emery boards. Off cuts of wood etc for making jigs and guides. I'm sure there are others I use regularly, but those are a good start. You certainly won't need them all from day 1. If you experience any problems with you signal building, I'll be pleased to try to help. Good luck, and let us know how you get on. Steve.

Morgan, That's certainly worth a try, when my wife's not watching. Steve.

Hi Ian, That's a fine signal, it looks really well. To answer your points: I do just rely on the fit of the "Mounting Tube" in the baseboard and servo board to hold it in place. If its too sloppy, a turn of masking tape on the tube will sort it out! I admire your use of the MSE built up ladder! I can never get them straight. I use the etched ones, with fine Nickel Silver wire soldered down the stile to give strength and depth. This is then carefully filed along the edges to thin it down and make the edge flat. Your guides look just right. They are necessary on your Lower Quadrant prototype, since the arm is moved by pushing up on the "down rod", which could easily buckle. On my Upper Quadrant prototype, they didn't exist, as the wire is in tension to clear the signal, and hangs slack when the arm returns to danger. Steve.

It's not all sitting around drinking tea..... I called on John today to drop off the buffers. He showed me the work he's been doing (and still has to do!) This shot shows the extent of the track detailing he's going to tackle before we put up the other boards. The brown colour of the unpainted chairs shows what he's completed. Simple enough? Here's How... John explained: These pictures show the process for using the C&L chairs as cosmetic chairs on track built using the rivet and ply method, rather than building the track with these chairs. (Lime St. track was already well advanced when the C&L track system was first marketed). 1) A standard chair as broken off the sprue. Each sprue has 10 chairs moulded on, 5 L/handed, and 5 R/handed. 2) The chair has been cut in two close to the part of the chair that butts up to the outside of the rail. (Side with the key). 3) The chair has now been cut in three. ( Cutting away the centre section that would normally go under the rail). The two outer parts are now fitted to each side of the running rails, glued in position using Butanone to fix them. 4) A pile of chairs, they still have to have the centre sections cut away. There's a box with another few hundred sprues in stock. Other bits of trivia !! The outside chairs (The halves with the keys), are fitted so as to alternate left and right on bi-directional track as seen on the attached pictures, but on uni-directional track they are all fitted in the opposite direction to that the trains travel in. The reason for that is that the vibration of a train travelling along the track as the train moves along is supposed to tighten the keys in their chairs rather than loosen them. (That's what I was told anyway!) Where rails converge chairs are partly cut away to allow them to fit between rails, and in some cases they are bonded together to represent cast double chairs. I have gone through at least two thousand chairs so far with still a great deal to do. And that is all before we even think about ballasting point rodding and barrow ways. Hope the above is of use, Cheers, John. This is the result: This is "Chaired" track. And with Fishplates added. Then there's the point rodding, ballasting, barrow crossings ....... Steve.

FAB - U - LOUS

Another small step: The buffers have all had their LEDs and Fibre Optics fitted. Each buffer has received two drops of a fine oil on the shank, which has been left overnight to drain down into the spring etc. Next chance I get, they will be delivered to John for installation during the coming months. At present only the main "spine boards" are assembled. This is allowing John to get on with fitting several thousand individual chairs and hundreds of C&L Fishplates. We're all looking forward to having all the boards assembled so we can play trains (Sorry! Operate the Railway) again. Merry Christmas to all our followers. Enjoy your modelling in the New Year. John, Brian, Geoff, Les, Steve, Rob

They really knew how to deal with incidents in 1949. The accident destroyed the buffers, the booking office beyond, the engine, several coaches, and punched a hole in the Hotel wall, some 60 feet beyond the buffers. The police and ambulances arrived 4 minutes after the accident. Station working was re-arranged and there were only slight delays to trains. The damaged stock was removed by 7.0 p.m. on the same day and necessary repairs to the permanent way and concourse were completed by 11.35 pm. on the following day, when normal working was resumed. How long for such an incident to be dealt with today? Steve.

Hi Nigel, I describe my signals as being "semi-permanent" installations. By disconnecting the operating links from the servos, and the fibre optics from the LEDs, they can be removed quite easily. The servos are designed to remain in-situ on the layout, and the signals transported separately. I have in the past built signals with spring loaded plungers incorporated in the base. One plunger for each arm. These plungers then rested on the servo arms rather than being connected to them. The signals could be readily removed and replaced. I think the footprint of a 4mm scale signal is a bit too small to allow it to be permanently attached to its servos, and the whole to be dropped into place on the layout. This is definitely possible in 7mm scale, and you should look carefully at Jon Fitness's topic: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/11497-jon-fitness-average-7mm-signals-workbench/ if this is of interest. Hope this helps. Steve.

Les, I've checked with John, and its all to do with clearance after un-coupling. If space is at a premium, the buffers will be "buried". Steve.

Buffer installation has started..... Brian has made a little jig which gets the positioning of the buffer correct: A pilot hole is drilled first: Then the 8mm hole which will accomodate the brass boss - i.e. 10mm deep. Ready for planting: Ballasting, weathering etc to follow: Looks OK? That's not an LMS number Steve.

Here we are then....Back to the Carlisle project. I've made a start on this batch of four signals. Working from an MSE etch, I've made up all the arms, balance arms and their bearings etc. The first signal structure is the tall lattice post, with the arm mounted some way below the top. The main post is an MSE etch for a 45ft post. The ladder required two etches to be joined to make up the required length. The bearing for the balance arm is in place: As are the guides for the operating wires: These aren't really prototypical, but are necessary to prevent the 0.4mm N/S wire I shall use from buckling when pushing the arm back to Danger. The arm bearing and lamp bracket are built onto a sub-assembly prior to attaching to the post: Following my usual practice, the signal's foundations include the brass tube to ensure accurate alignment with the servos at installation. That's about as far as I'm taking this signal for now. I'll be making up the three bracket signals to a similar state before they are all sent to the paint shop. Steve.

A little more progress: We've decided to use red LEDs rather than the "Gaslight" LEDs from Helmsman which required red filters. Makes the job simpler I've turned the brass plugs which will hold the LEDs and fitted each LED with a 1k Ohm resistor. The positive leads have also been insulated with heat shrink sleeving. When the Optical Fibre is fitted, about 3mm protrudes below the Buffer's base. This is threaded into the brass turning, where it lines up with the LED which is secured with a little superglue. The brass turning will locate the assemly in the baseboard: and the necessary 12volt feed will be connected: I'll get some pictures when the weathering and installation has been completed. Steve.

Hi Jason, Complete the whole static structure inluding handrails, upper ladders, finials etc. Remove all moving parts - Arms, Blinders, Balance arms, Cranks etc. (If using Rocking Shafts, leave them in-situ) Spray paint everything Halfords White Primer - several thin coats and leave to harden. Brush paint the Black bits Precision Satin Black or Dirty Black. Worth trying a good Permanent Black Marker Pen - it can avoid building up paint thickness on delicate items. Mask and paint the arms BR Signal Red or Yellow etc. Add MSE glazing to Spectacles - Red, Yellow or Blue (not Green) Blacken Nickel Silver wire (0.4mm) for operating wires. Assemble! If using Fibre Optics for lighting, install it first. Minimise the clearance between operating wires and their attachment points. The final items to secure to hold everything together are the pivots for the Balance Arms (0.45mm Lace Pins) which I secure with a tiny drop of cyano under the pin head. Heating this with a dry soldering iron beaks the bond and allows dissembly. The Back Blinder secures the arm and is soldered to the arm shaft. Oil the bearing and use an oily tissue washer to prevent locking it all up. You can Blacken the shaft where it is inside the bearing to prevent solder attaching. Clean parts, Liquid flux, Minimum solder on Hot iron is my technique. Dont hang around with the iron or you'll damage the paintwork. Good luck, Steve. p.s. Ladder should slope 1mm horizontal for 12mm vertical.