Newbie2020

2 minutes ago, cypherman said:

Hi Newbie,

2 things you could try are PVA glue or clear silicone sealant both used on sparingly. You do not say if the name plates have attachment pins. or are just flat brass.

Hi, Just flat metal plates

SWMBO has very kindly bought me a Bachmann Class 66 for my Birthday which was recently named Capt Tom Moore. The model includes the etched name plates but they are not attached. As its a new and lovely model I thought I would check what is the best way to attach the name plates to the loco, as I really don't want to spoil the bodywork by using the wrong adhesive!! Any suggestions guys?

Good News!  The Mogul has been sorted by DCC Supplies (warranty workshop for Dapol). Pickups were faulty and decoder replaced and it now runs perfectly, Can't wait to get it back and running around Lyneworth! Big thanks to Dapol and DCC Supplies! Any problems now are obviously my track laying! lol!!

Thanks guys, thats great

Hi All, 

I have set up the DCC BUS for my layout and connected the DCC Command Unit (Digitrax) to one end. I based this on the early research I did on the topic. This means that I have about 4.5m of BUS from the command unit to the end. I note from further research that advice is, to get best results, to place the command unit approximately central - meaning I would have about 2.25m of BUS in either direction (terminating in DCC Concepts BUS Spike Suppressors). 

My Question is, is it worth the effort to change to a central position ? Inconvenient but quite do-able, or would the benefit be minimal?

Cheers

8 hours ago, Combe Martin said:

The filters I'm describing are a capacitor and resister soldered together in series and then connected across the 2 wires of the DCC bus at each of its ends.  There is a web site by a gentleman called Brian Lambert.  He has a big section on it about DCC wiring etc.  and he discusses filters there and what values of capacitor and resister to use.  There are pictures as well.

 

Google will find it.

 

The bit about filters is a little way down the DCC section.

 

 

OK, I've had a read and it sounds like it won't do any harm and may improve things so I'll give them a go.

1 hour ago, DavidCBroad said:

Just wondering what are these other locos you have?   Do they all run well?  It just seems to be particularly bad luck to have two new locos work so badly.   Was there any feedback from "Rails" about what was wrong with the Prairie.  I can't help thinking you gave up too soon, I have spent at least 3 years trying to make a decent loco from the T9 and the end is in sight, it's just that I've lost several small parts in the process....

A variety of locos from Hornby Collectors Club Centenary 0-4-0 ( which runs brilliantly) Bachman Class 40, Bachman Blue Peter, Bachman 4MT (probably the best of all of them) Hornby Hogwarts Castle, Bachmann Warship. All run fine. 

Maybe I did give up a little early on this which is why I'm letting Dapol have a look at the Mogul, Rails offered no explanation just exchanged it. As a newbie I didn't feel confident at all with all the fiddles and tweeks people suggested - Not saying they wouldn't have worked, just that I didn't feel confident doing them. I'm eagerly awaiting the report on the mogul!

46 minutes ago, Combe Martin said:

The reason I ask is that I once all of a sudden had a problem where a number of locos (that there had previously been no problem with and fitted with a variety of decoders) started to stop and then start randomly at certain places on my layout.  After a while I twigged that it was after I'd introduced a new loco that was now sitting in a siding along with about 20 other locos. All of these were fitted with decoders (a variety of makes, Lenz, Digitrax, ZTC , Bachmann, TCS).  I removed the new loco from the track and then every  other loco ran normally. 

 

Id just fitted the new loco (a Hornby Std Class 4 which incidentally runs beautifully just like a well oiled sowing machine, the smoothest running loco I've got)  with a Hornby R8249 decoder (one I had'nt tried before).  It seemed to me that the new Hornby decoder must have been creating some sort of 'noise' on the DCC circuit that was affecting some but not all other decoders.    

 

I rang Hornby and they replaced the R8249 but it only fixed the problem partially. Slightly less of my other decoders were affected.  I talked to the nice Hornby man and he suggested that I fit filters to the ends of my DCC power bus.  This fixed the problem.  My layout is  a double track main line roundy roundy but with a break in the power circuit (both track and Wiring Bus)  at one end. So the power circuit is affectively a U shape.  These filters can be bought ready made but can be home made from 2 components bought from Maplins for a couple of pounds. 

 

I have seen similar problems being raised on here by a few people, one of whom said that all of a sudden loads of his affected decoders of one particular make had all gone faulty at the same time, a very unlikely situation I think.  

Interesting, I will investigate!

7 minutes ago, Combe Martin said:

When this loco is running are there any other locos on the layout (a powered part) at the same time ?

Iniitially there were but when i had the problems I took the other loco off, made no difference

Hi All,

Quick question! I, modelling era 3-4 and have just made a tunnel entrance.  The question is, would there be signals controlling entry to the tunnel? My thoughts would be that this would be an obvious use for them, to ensure that one train has exited the tunnel before the next enters it. However on looking at pictures very few seem to have any sort of signals controlling entry. Thoughts?

Clive

On 27/02/2021 at 11:26, Combe Martin said:

I presume from this that your layout is DCC, do all your other locos work reliably all the time ? 

Hi, Yes all others work fine

Update!  I have received my Dapol Mogul (DCC Sound fitted, 6336) which is to replace the Large Prairie!!

It looks Awesome! Really impressed with the model it s stunning.

It sounds awesome! The DCC sound is really good!

Sadly, It doesn't run!!!! 

The "hand of God" can get the motor to turn but it stops as soon as its on its own

Very quick response from Dapol who are going to try and get it working for me! So it's going back to their service centre. Fingers crossed it's something simple and can be sorted.

However, when paying so much money for something its sad that we have to go through all this to get a working model!

I'll keep you all posted, but Dapol  have said it could take 10 weeks!

Hey Ho!

Perfect Thanks a million!

Brilliant! Thanks Guys

Is the Class 43 Warship D838 'Rapid' the only unphotographed Warship Class Loco? I like to have a photo of the real locomotive to match each model I have. Having just acquired Bachmanns D838 'Rapid' I'd like a picture to go with it! Try as I might, I have been unable to located a picture of the actual loco for my wall. Can anyone help out with one? or point me in the right direction? Happy to pay reasonable cost for a good pic.

Rgds

Clive

Thanks for all the comments and advice. After discussion with a few people I've decided repairs are a little beyond my novice status. I've spoken to Rails of Sheffield (who have been brilliant about this!) and decided to exchange it for a Dapol Mogul.  Hopefully this one will be fine!

Clive

2 hours ago, ikcdab said:

Manufacturers are pushing up prices way beyond inflation for locos. Even the most basic engines are more than £100 and the more complex models are all North of £150. With these prices, pe4formance such as you describe is unacceptable. The "Sam's trains" channel has a lot to say about that and I agree with him. You shouldn't have to make such intrusive adjustments to brand new locos.

I'd just return it and buy something else.

This is what I'm thinking (just watched the Sam's Trains video! That's exactly what my loco is doing.) I don't mind "minor adjustments" but starting to do anything more , especially as a novice to this, is intimidating at the least and, as you rightly say, at the price (this was DCC Fitted at £129.50) anything more than minor adjustments really shouldn't be necessary.

27 minutes ago, john dew said:

I and others had a similar experience. Stay Alives will help ( I added Youchoos Supercaps)......but you will probably have to make other adjustments

 

They are quite light locos....try adding additional weight ...I added over 70 gm.

 

The pony bogie doesnt have enough play which can cause derailment problems but it also contribuites to stalling.......if the the track is at all uneven the pony wheels will lift the unsprung centre axle clear of the track! I and  other owners have filed down the bogie to provide more movement. I think the keeper plate is also screwed on too tight .....I eased the screws and this helps as well.
 

Performance improves as the motor beds in.....I had to run mine a lot trying to sort things out

 

I had to spend far more time tinkering with these Prairies than any other recently purchased models. There is a marked contrast between their  out of the box performance and Dapol’s Mogul.........however time and the adjustments do pay off........I have three and performance for all is now excellent and the stalling has disappeared.

 

HTH

 

Best wishes

 

Excuse the ignorance of a Newbie, but what is the keeper plate?

Hi All,

She Who Must Be Obeyed bought me a fantastic 51XX Large Prairie from Hornby for Christmas (I must have done something right this year!) . The model looks fantastic and fits in perfectly on my layout. However, when I run it, it stops at nearly every set of points and sometimes randomly on straights or curves. Its usually instantaneous and recovers itself. This is worse at slower speeds and when pulling coaches. My question is - would this improve with a "stay alive" or is this a fault and I need to return it (It came from Rails of Sheffield)?

Happy New Year Everyone!!

Clive 

1 hour ago, Steamport Southport said:

Some information here.

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LMS_Patriot_Class

 

Might be of interest. All the Patriots were scrapped, but there is a new one which is quite far down the road to completion.

 

https://www.lms-patriot.org.uk/

 

 

 

Jason

That's awesome, Thanks Jason

Thanks  guys!!!

Hi All,

completely random question! My Dad, now in his late eighties, remembers collecting train numbers and names from Bury Bolton Street and Manchester Victoria during the 1940's. Whilst reminiscing about this he often refers to "Pats" and "Jubs". He remembers that by "Jubs" he was referring to Jubilee Class Locos, but cannot remember what "Pats" was referring to! Can anyone shed light on this?

Merry Christmas!

Clive

Thanks everyone for the contributions - I've learned a lot! I'll look at the changes in layout too (track is only pinned down so far!).

I have put the sidings in now and tested it and the shunter is not affected as a train goes through the return loop!

Cheers

Clive

1 minute ago, KingEdwardII said:

I think that you could simplify things a little by only treating the upper half of the reversing loop as a reversing loop - i.e. only the section between point 6 and point 8. That means that the sidings off point 6 are always at the same polarity as point 5. I think that would make your concern about the sidings go away.

 

Would that work for you?

 

Mike.

OMG! That is so simple! I hadn't even thought of that!

Thankyou

I'm wiring my layout DCC as shown in the AnyRail plan. I've got the return loop working perfectly with a dual frog juicer working as an auto-reverser. My question is, do I need to isolate the central sidings between points 6 and 19? If I'm running a shunter in the sidings and a train goes through the reverse loop will the changing polarity affect the shunter?

If not, why not?

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