NFWEM57

Let's hope they make much larger versions of smart phones for seniors then..!

I have noticed that most publicised solutions to have a switchable red or switchable cab lights have often use 2 auxiliary channels for each light, i.e. one aux channel for each red light or cab light. Some time ago I developed a solution to this problem which only used one aux channel per light function. The basis of the circuit is an optocoupler which converts the sink of the auxiliary function into a power feed. Switching on Aux1 illuminates the led which in turn enables the photo transistor which in turn pass current through to the LEDs which are connected to white and yellow. Thus a direction sensitive setup. On a standard 8 pin DCC decoder, with wire for Aux 2, this provides for switchable red running lights and cab lights. I used the concept in a modified Mainline Warship to provide switchable red running lights and cab lights. A small PCB was developed which provided separately adjustable brilliance for Head Codes, White Running Lights, Red Running Lights and Cab Lights. The PCB is shown below. The inputs are wired to the board, blue, green (aux1) and purple (aux2) on the left. The yellow and white are connected to the left of the DuPont connectors. All marked with a cross on teh left hand PCB diagram. The DuPont connectors are as follows: White/Orange, Yellow/Orange - Head Code Lights on chassis (LED) Dark Blue - Adjustable White Running Lights - Body Shell White/Yellow - Body Shell Red - Switched Adjustable Red Running Lights - Body Shell Purple - Switched Adjustable Cab Light The trimmer are 50K, all resistors are 1K. Left light yellow PCB is top of PCB with components and middle yellow is where the track cuts are. Dark yellow is underside (mirror) to show where the cuts actually are. Fitted circuit board is shown below: Hope this is useful to somebody. Regards, Patrick

Did you build in OO or have you switched to building in O..? Just curious, given your contributions regarding both gauges..!

Below is the PCB schematic. The inputs are wired to the board, blue, green (aux1) and purple (aux2) on the left. The yellow and white are connected to the left of the DuPont connectors. The DuPont connectors are as follows: White/Orange, Yellow/Orange - Head Code Lights on chassis (LED) Dark Blue - Adjustable White Running Lights - Body Shell White/Yellow - Body Shell Red - Switched Adjustable Red Running Lights - Body Shell Purple - Switched Adjustable Cab Light The trimmer are 50K, all resistors are 1K. Light yellow is top of PCB with components and where the track cuts are. Dark yellow is underside (mirror) to show where the cuts actually are. My latest design only has one trimmer to provide a differential between white running lights and marker lights if they are fitted, otherwise it is not required. Speaker, track supply and part of stay alive circuit mounted on PCB as well. Same PCB footprint, 9 x 12.. Screw terminals used instead of DuPont. Some components not fitted if they are not used, likewise unused screw terminals.

I am trying to show the circuit with text but the writing keeps getting hidden, Will try again later.

I started out using LaisDCC but eventually settled on ESU for the Command Station and thus decoders. Have never purchased Zimo but some of my Steam factory fitted DCC Sound may have them fitted. I do have Hornby TTS for my HSTs and have added stay alive to them. The latest version of my PCB includes speaker connections and most of the stay alive circuit in the same footprint PCB. I am using 21 pin decoders almost every where in my diesel fleet, but only a few are sound. My planned layout is a replica, in EM, of a western mainline country junction 1960s to 1980s so it is about watching the trains go by. Basis of circuit for switchable red shown below. Opto-coupler used is 817A, type into google and you will find it offered by many manufactures. For a dual variant search for MCT62. I bought in bulk a while ago and they cost me £0.11 and £0.28 each respectively. Post COVID, no idea of cost now..!

Hi, Thank you for your comments. Only one motor wired up. I too have a few later Bachmann models but its would have been a pity to part with usable stock. I have converted Hornby Class 35s, Class 37S and Class 47s from the 1980s in much the same way. I have a newer PCB which does not use trimmers but relies on the CV adjustments for brilliance; ESU decoders. I'll dig out the diagram for the circuits shown and upload here. Please give me a day or two as family events are occurring over the weekend...! The integrated circuit is a dual opto-coupler which is used to convert the Aux 1 and Aux 2 current sinks to a power feed for the red running lights and the cab lights. Yellow and White then used as normal for both.

Have just come across this thread..! Very interesting. I recently converted a Lima HST to EM gauge using the Hornby driven bogies and centrally mounted motor. Did publish under Modifying and Detailing RTR Stock. Guess i should have published here. Link below for interest. Same pulling power as full fat version but for a 1/3 the cost..!

I was using a wheel puller, might have another go using an alternate method but US wheels already purchased so may as well use them. Below is my Mainline conversion, which I sold on a while back. Direction sensitive cab lights (Aux2) and switchable red running lights (Aux1) both enabled by the lights function. Cab light off (left) and on (right) I have 3 more to convert for sale with 8 pin decoder sockets and 3 more to convert to EM (for me) with 21 pin decoders, stay alive and a new PCB design which provides the same functionality described above. Will be using ESU decoder so better motor control and tuning. No need for light brilliance adjustments on the PCBs, all done using CVs in the decoder. Patrick

This is a fascinating thread. I have a number of Mainline and Bachman models for conversion to EM gauge for a planned west country layout, US wheelsets (NS) and brass gears (for mainline) already procured. Just acquired D835 Pegasus for renaming to D854 Tiger. RTR whels are accurate shape wise but almost impossible to remove with out damage. Hence US wheel sets for EM. In the past, have converted Mainline model to DCC 8 Pin and added running and cab lights.

Thank you for the reply. Just ordered Vallejo Light Orange, I'll see how that goes.

Does anybody know what colour orange is best for ETS boxes? I will be using acrylic paint.

Check for cracks in the motor casing or a stripped thread on one of the casing screws which can cause problems as the casing appear joined but is loose causing commutator contact issues. Have had this before. Simple fix, drill through the casing with the stripped thread and use a nut and bolt. I think I used M2.

Couple of suggestion. Find a rod of equal diameter to the screw head and file to a half moon shape and see if that will rotate the screw, but be gentle. I rather think someone may have glued the screw in place so see if you can remove the other half of the head so that the eccentric can and other parts of the motion gear can be removed. The third option is to use a very thin fine tooth razor saw to cut through the screw under the upper connecting rod, not the eccentric; there is a locating lug underneath the eccentric. Then it is a matter of removing the remains of the screw. If it is in there solid then a new axle with wheels might be the only option unless you can drill and tap accurately. Good luck...

Only have an EM and OO test track at present on which to test all my conversions, OO for selling on and EM for me. 60:40 split diesel and steam and have all I need so set about gradually converting diesels to EM using Ultrascale; now complete. For steam i am using Alan Gibson wheels and making my own crank pins so that I can use the original motion gear. Did try the 3D printed gear wheels but they were invariably not as good. Have 3 Mainline Warships which have been converted to EM with new gears, DCC and running lights. I have 3 more which will remain OO but will have replacement brass gearwheels and DCC with running lights for sale on a certain auction site at some point this year; one Green and 2 Maroon. Always had excellent service from Ultrascale, just need to plan ahead..!

Ordered on 7 Feb 21 and delivered on 24 Feb 21...!

I had similar problems and replaced the final drive gears with brass ones from Ultrascale. Problem solved.

I have a number of newer Lima Class 37s and Class 47s which I am converting to EM gauge with new or upgrade drive trains. Missing from my list of part are the pipes and cables needed to add buffer beam detail. A search of RN Web did uncover an excellent thread (Kylestrome’s 4mm Workbench) which described how to make most of the pipes using nickel silver rod and wire but not the ETS cables and junction boxes. Have searched RM Web but nothing found. Of course, i could resort to purchasing detailing kits from one of the usual RTR manufacturers but that is an expensive option and does not allow flexibility in assembly and fitting. A review of the various models revealed a plethora of ETS fits within a class. Has anybody attempted to make their own ETS cable and junction boxes in much the same way that Kylestrome has for the pipework ? I may as well try to make my own based on a set of weathered ETS cables for a Bachman Class 45 and prototype images and measurements. Suitable component ordered. First candidate is a Lima Class 47 converted to EM with a Hornby Railroad chassis, separate thread when complete. I will update how I made the ETS cables, connectors and junction boxes here. Now work in progress. Patrick

I use weight per axle or per bogie for wagons and coaches. For locos I try to get most of the weight on the drivers for steam and the driven bogies for diesels to maximise traction for metal on metal; I avoid traction tyres. Agree, Iain Rice 20-25 grams per axle. The mainline coaches for my test track com in at 75g per bogie, 150g overall. Later Hornby Class 43 HSTs come in at 260g per bogie, 520g overall.

Glad it was useful information. And the beauty is you don't have to keep reversing the tap, straight cut and the tap follower keeps a constant pressure on the tap and keeps it in line. Image is of a M1.4 tap being made in a set of new crank pins I made for a Bachmann MT5 so I could use the original motion gear with Alan Gibson wheels. I used an M1.2 tap drill, not an M1.1 as recommended. Tap handles too big so use a piece of chocolate block to rotate the tap.

Use a NEM pocket and then you can fit whatever you like. Check out the link https://mademe.co.uk/product-tag/coupling-converters/ I have converted a lot of old rolling stock to NEM using these products.

I have selection of split chassis locomotives I am about to start converting to EM gauge, including several 4MTs, a 43xx, several 69xx and several A4s. All will be getting Alan Gibson wheels with either spring pickups or 0.25mm Beryllium Copper wiper pickups. I will be uploading under Modifying & Detailing RTR stock. On Mazak, have milled, drilled and tapped with no issues. For tapping use a spiral point tap for through holes or a spiral flute tap for blind holes. However, such taps are not cheap. I use a spring loaded tap follower when I need to tap a hole and mount the tap and tap follower in a pillar drill or lathe tail stock. Patrick

Guess I could shorten it to - Lima Class 37 EM Conversion Tips. But it is an accurate description to attract interest across several modification areas..! Read the title, not for me, move on..! 🙂

I recently acquired a nicely detailed and weathered Lima class 37 with the original motor bogies for £37 for conversion to EM gauge. Although I had a new Class 37 Hornby Railroad chassis and bogies, and had converted a Lima Class 47 variant to EM recently using Railroad chassis and bogies, I wanted to keep the original chassis will all its detailing but did want to reduce the considerable running noise and I decided that a CD motor conversion was the best option. The Strathpefferjunction Lima LA5 conversion kits for CoCo bogies uses a smaller (9mm) CD motor (9mm) to aviod the CD motor fouling the middle axle. This means less power, and therefore drawbar bull, and possibly the need for voltage droppers. However, for an EM gauge conversion, it is possible to fit the larger CD motor (12mm) if the motor is modified slightly and use the generic Strathpefferjunction Lima LA4 generic conversion kit instead which comes without a motor. The conversion is undertaken as normal with the only modification required being to remove the casing overhang on the lower part of the CD motor and the addition of shim washer on the central axle. An Ultrascale Lima 6 Axle Pack B set was used for the replacement wheel set. Protrusions on the non gear side of the existing power bogie must be removed as they prevent the correct back to back being set irrespective of motor change. Although Strathpefferjunction do sell 12mm CD motors separately, I had a set 6 CD motors from an educational motor generator experiment set for children that had been sat 'gathering dust' for some time. The motors are 12v and measure 12.4mm in depth. The 2mm shaft protrudes by 8.75mm but this does not need trimming as the excess simple passes through the existing motor housing and does not cause fouling. On the back of the CD motor, the case overhangs the motor rear by 0.75mm and it is necessary to remove this overhang on the bottom quarter of the motor. I used a small file and filed away from the centre of the motor to prevent filings entering the motor ventilation holes. A little of the rear casing can also be removed if required. Before and after shots below. It is now a matter of temporarily putting the motor in place in the LA4 mount and checking the clearance between the central wheel and the motor casing. I used two 1 mm thick 1/8" shim washers on the side opposite the gears to ensure the wheel did not foul the motor casing but, in hindsight, could have used 1.5mm. After checking for free running, permanently fitting the motor with its gear wheel and the central wheelset, the remaining two axles are fitted and similarly checked for free running. The back to back was set at 16.5mm but with the Ultrascale wheels a back to back of 16.6mm could be used whilst maintaining a wheel check gauge of 17.2mm; every little helps. There is limited side play on all the axles but the minimum radius on my planned EM layout will be 48", much more on the scenic section, and on my test track it is a minimum of 32" but 34" for the outer track; the locomotive it will not encounter 2nd radius curves (18"). The complete bogie is shown below. Bogie eased out to show fine (cigarette paper as the late Iain Rice would say) clearance between middle wheel set and new CD motor housing. Prior to conversion the locomotive weighted 400 grams (205 grams power, 195 grams dummy) and, with its traction tyre fitted wheels, had a drawbar pull of 110 grams; at 55%, a low conversion, 75% expected. The weight of the converted loco was 375 grams with 195 grams on the power bogie and 180 grams on the dummy bogie. Draw bar pull was measured at around 30 grams and quite low at 15%. Adding finger tip weight considerable increased draw bar pull and so more weight might need to be added toward the power bogie end. On test, light loco, the conversion ran smoothly around a 34" radius EM gauge test track and through a British Finescale B7 and Double Slip. An additional 65 grams of weight was added toward the power bogie end of the locomotive with 240 grams on the power bogie and 200 grams on the dummy bogie; total 440 grams. Draw bar pull increased to 40 grams, a minor improvement to 17% but no the nominal expected 60 grams (25%). Locomotive has been converted to has been DCC with red and white running lights . Converted loco images below. On test the DCC converted locomotive hauled 6 Mainline Mk1 coaches (total weight 900 grams) with ease and attained a scale speed of 90 mph (measured using a DRM Speedometer SPC100R) at speed step 16 of 28 using an unconfigured LaisDCC 8 pin direct decoder. A LokPilot 5 Basic will be fitted in due course and auto tuned to initially set up the decoder before other settings are adjusted. Video of converted locomotive and 6 Mainline/Replica Mk1 coaches at link. There was only a slight warming of the motor after 30 minutes of running. I will be undertaking a similar conversions on a Lima Class 52 and (hopefully) a Mainline Class 56 (using a Hornby conversion kit), both with Ultrascale wheel sets. I have several R758 (Ringfield) conversions to undertake as well but the BoBo's conversions accept the full size CD motor without issue. I have another Lima Class 37 in mint condition which will be receiving a replacement Hornby Railroad chassis and bogies, running, marker and cab lights and a 21 pin DCC fit. The bogies will have Alan Gibson wheels fitted, gauged for EM, in place of the RTR ones with traction tyres. I'll upload if there is interest, I successfully converted a Lima Class 47 to EM in the same manner recently. Patrick