SuperD

I too received a small package of 3 gearboxes today. A first order from me. Thank you Chris.

Hi, thanks to all for the input. I've placed my order and had confirmation. Sorry to hear of the Covid Chris, all the best with that.

I've been trying to place an order all day today but the site seems to be down. Has anyone else had the same problem?

Since taking up this hobby I've acquired some odds and ends from eBay, amongst them a very nice SE finecast unrebuilt Scot body to fit the Triang chassis. I don't know how many variations there's been over the years on this, but if anyone has one spare I'd very much appreciate it. Regards John

Mmm, one to think about. The "commands" are sent via the track, so you may have to operate a controller via RC servo to achieve that. Best of luck.

Thank you. Rowsley, I'll keep my fingers crossed and hope for that then. Melmerby, I much prefer the easy option. Cheers

Hi, a quick update. I can't get any 21mm 16 spoke Romford/Markits wheels anywhere, so progress stymied for the mo'. In desperation, I've ordered a set on you know where, with a broken crankpin in one wheel. Any suggestions on removal would be appreciated. In the meantime I've ordered another chassis and will keep myself busy with that. I've ordered the items that you suggested Brossard, thank you very much. Regards John

Good morning all, I used the Comet jig and the axles fall straight through under gravity. which I don't think they would if it wasn't square, but that system looks interesting, I'll have a look. I'm using some Romfords from the auction site. I can't get hold of any Markits at the moment. This is a problem in so far as three are uninsulated and I don't want to go "live chassis", so I'll change them when I can get some. Back to the free running... I've already drilled the outside holes, I didn't realise that there was a broach so small (1.2mm) I must get one. But, try as I may, I cannot get this to run smoothly under it's own weight, so I lubricated it and put the motor in and tried it........... I intended posting a vid' but the file's too big......it runs really smooth and quiet. So my next hurdle, when I get some wheels, will be how to fix the rods on the crankpins without upsetting anything as it is now. Thank you all for the support so far

Hi all, thank you very much for the input. I ran it this morning with rods off and got the same result. I'm using Romfords by the way. After a bit of head scratching I realised that one of the brass bearings had come loose, I don't know if this was because of the heat generated. Anyway, a bit awkward because I did the soldering before I folded the gearbox but I've redone it. While I had the motor out I put the rods back on and tried it for free running. It wasn't as good as the first time and there was a slight bind every revolution. I'd drilled the rods as instructions at 1.2mm and my next drill is 1.5mm, a little more than I would like. However, I did the outside wheels, but no improvement. So we'll see what tomorrow brings. Cheers

There was one axle that didn't fall through without a push, so a touch with the broach and all fine. I then laminated the Coupling rods and put them on using the plastic insulation tip. ...... Amazed...still free running. Flush with success, I fitted the motor and put the chassis on a plinth with the wheels hanging free. Gently turned on the power............nice smooth running and very quiet.........Mmm, nothing to this modelling lark, I'll have a coffee and let it run for a while. Return to find it's a bit jerky, I feel at the motor and its really hot. It's a bit like golf... just when you think you've cracked it, you have your worst ever round... Coupling rods are off. I'll see what tomorrow brings. Cheers

Thank you very much. I'll have a look re point no 4. Much obliged.

You can see from the pic' that I've fitted the motor and I've run it now that I have the grub screw. It's nice and smooth, though not as fast as I expected. The gear sets are not quite central on the worm even though I've followed the instructions with the thinner bearing. I've managed to get hold of some wheels (Andrew's out of stock) and I removed the motor, fitted the wheels and checked it for free running. The middle wheels don't touch the track unless I press on it and I have to lift the track about three inches before it moves (this is under it's own weight). So....do I remove the wheels and broach the bearings a little, I don't want any sloppiness in it? Any help/advice would be appreciated.

Hi All, I've posted more on this but put it in the wrong section. I've decided that the best solution is to have a go at the Comet chassis. I've bought one (with some trepidation) and the Canon motor and gearbox and have really enjoyed it so far. Here's where I'm up to. (pic). Unfortunately I've lost the grub screw from the lay shaft, so can't test run the gearbox yet. I've ordered some this morning. ps. I decided against sprung horn blocks for the first attempt. I'll try that on the next one, I have a Kemilway in the post. Cheers

Wow, 12? I thought I liked 4F's I'm not too clear on how the braking system goes together. Would you be kind enough to show a pic' please?

Hi, yes, I thought about it, but as it's my first attempt decided to try the easier option first. The instructions aren't very thorough and a picture of the braking system would be very helpful if anyone has one. Thanks to all for the input.

Hello all, I haven't been in touch for a while so I thought I'd give you an update. I can't start building the layout yet, I'm waiting for some work to be done on the house, however, I've been busy populating and lighting all my coaches. Having done that, I decided to have a go at building a 4F chassis, quite a leap for me, I've never done anything like that before. I really like the 4F and would like one that would pull well, so I ordered the Comet chassis and the Canon motor and gearbox. Hopefully I can put some weight in it to aid adhesion and pulling power. I spent the afternoon/evening on it, struggled a bit, some of the bearings came loose, but I managed to get to the stage of testing, (pic' added) only to find I'd lost the grub screw from the layshaft!! Ahh well, roll on Monday so I can order another. Cheers John

Hi, I don't know how I came across this thread, but I've just spent a couple pf hours reading it. I'm absolutely amazed at the building quality you achieve. Not only in the detail but also the tremendous pulling power. I'm new to the hobby with nothing running yet, but I've acquired quite a bit of stock and fitted lighting to all my coaches, including putting a red LED in a "springside" tail lamp. I'm now going to have a go at kit building. I've ordered a Comet 4F chassis for starters , although I have no mechanical leanings, so to speak. I like the 4F but the tender driven ones have no pulling power, so hopefully a white metal kit on this will address that. I've just ordered an etch bender, my first step on the kit building road. I doubt I'll reach your standards but will certainly try, so be ready for lots of pleas for help LOL! Cheers John

Typhoon.

As we were walking from the helicopter he did a couple of fast and low passes.

No, I'm in a helicopter. The Spitfire was much faster the we were and very lucky to get it over the memorial as it shot past. Cheers

Thank you for the heads up on this BR BLUE. I was watching one on eBay that stands at £170 with 30hrs to go.

Here's another from me.

I'm currently watching one on eBay. The NRM model, never used. it stands at £170 with 24 bids and 1day 6hrs to run. This is the price of a new one and I wouldn't be surprised to see it touch £200. Cheers

I've succumbed!!

Hi, here's one of mine. not sure, but I think at Blackpool a few years ago.