trustytrev

:scratchhead: :scratchhead: trustytrev.

:scratchhead: :scratchhead: trustytrev.

:scratchhead: trustytrev.

Hello, I think you are failing to recognise gauge flaring is not the same as gauge widening. Gauge widening is something done prototypically on curves with varying degree to avoid longer wheelbase locomotives spreading the track to excess and causing short wheel base wagons etc becoming derailed. The amount of gauge widening on prototypical track is carefully worked out by the permanent way engineers totaly defined by the type and size of locomotives. In real life not all locomotives can run on all lines especialy in goods yards.That is why short tank engines tend to do most shunting because it is just not practical to use huge locomotives for such tasks. It is also why they have limitations imposed with regard to the sharpness of curves for certain types of traffic. Instead of permanet way engineers, people who build model track, usually use something called a three point guage, which automatically widens the gauge to a varying amount depending on the tightness of the curve. If you use it the wrong way round you will get gauge narrowing that renders the curve tighter than the locomotives or vehicles can negotiate. I fail to understand why narrowing plain 16.5 gauge track to match 4-SF is considered more difficult than the complexity involved faffing about varying the point and crossing gauge in multiple places.As far as I am aware points and crossings are not possible without curves in some form or other. It is a concept that is irrational and without logic or any sense whatsoever. As far as I am aware it is not the purpose of Templot to handle gauge flaring as it is not a prototypical concept. I wish those whom delight in causing confusion and engaging in obfuscation would go elsware for their childish and spiteful games. Better still they could spend the time mentioned in the previous sentence creating something superior to Templot and really impress us all. I won't hold my breath on that count. Some of the conduct on this Handbuilt Track and Templot topic prevents many people from deriving any pleasure. Is that not why we choose to engage in this hobby? trustytrev.

Hello, I can understand Martins point of veiw as he must be driven to despair by all the bickering. Building track to 16.2mm gauge is a brilliant and successful compromise that ticks so many boxes.I see people now want to argue the toss about RTR track from other manufacturers that looks better than Peco in their opinion and happens to be 16.5mm gauge. Come on guys we are talking 0.3mm difference in overall gauge between the two. On plain track 0.15mm difference in either rail on a yard length of plain track is neither here nor there. The concept for point and crossing formations are a success for those that use it and Plastic RTR track is just one more compromise some think is acceptable. Gauge widening on any handbuilt track at 16.2mm gauge that is not straight is a forgone conclusion just as it is in the real thing. trustytrev.

Hello, Is there any chance of some more details about your Northlight shed? trustytrev.

Hello, I think the layout name (BurscoughCurves) gives it away. trustytrev.

Hello, I think plastic axle/wheels are likely to distort over time which could explain why the back to back tends to vary causing problems. Metal wheels on metal axles seem to be truer than those in plastic and are unlikely to distort over time. I choose 00-SF not because it is easy but because it suits the effect I want to acheive without lots of extra unnesasary effort altering wheels on RTR products. I can also build what I like with the help of Martin's Templot software to virtually any prototipical layout I want. It may be better to use veroboard. trustytrev.

Hello, This topic is supposed to be "Why Would I Choose 00-SF"? I really feel those that don't want to answer such a question on this should sod off. trustytrev.

Hello, I think Gibson do some Stanier wheels with the same number of spokes for one of the Stanier tanks.They are in the 5'6" to 5'7" range if I remember correctly. part number 4866ST. trustytrev.

Hello Pete, I noticed in post #57 the your driving wheel does not appear to be a bevelled rim type. trustytrev.

Hello Andy, You might do better using a scraper with a hardened sharp edge.(chisel, stanley blade or old redundant file ground to a sharp edge) It is the way whitemetal bearings are worked by hand.https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hand_scraper trustytrev.

Hello Ray, The Templot printouts are looking good. Have you done the electrical insulation gaps on your copperclad turmouts? You could clad the walls with lengths of appropriate hardboard(forget nails) painted with blue emulsion as a base for the back scene before you are hampered by things on the baseboards. Regards. trustytrev.

Hello, It is Saturday again and SWMBO has got me a bottle of wine this weekend. @ 23:40 I really like this Australian ShiraZ. Cheers. trustytrev.

Hello, I seem to recall somewhere a solution was to hang the weight of the tender on the rear drawbar of the locomotive somehow. Possibly by making the tender front and center axles floating maybye? trustytrev.

Hello Steve The brand/supplier and what was actually used in the picture above would be most welcome please. It looks spot on for what I want to acheive on the running lines. Finding what I need to reproduce to a similar condition is a bit of a challenge really as it is all a bit complicated without prior experience. thanks. trustytrev.

Hello Steve, Could you provide info about the ballast please? trustytrev.

Hello, Just a thought regarding inclines. If you have a train that struggles up any of the inclines could you not introduce a banker.Using dcc locos in such a manner would surely introduce quite a bit more operating interest. The real railways certainly managed it. trustytrev.

Hello, Use it as it is so you can run some trains sooner rather than later. Modelling railways is all about compromise. You can always replace them gradually if you feel so inclined at a later date. I really want to see trains being operated on Eastwood Town. I would also like to see your scenery being developed as well. Progressing to an operational stage is sure to reinvigorate your enthusiasm with new and interesting challenges in other areas of this great hobby. trustytrev.

Hello, Bang a brass panel pin in your timber.Solder bus wire to it. Bang another brass panel pin in where your dropper wire needs to be. Solder that and your bus wire to it plus your next bit of bus wire ad infinitum. Single core bus wires can be wrapped round the panel pins after stripping sufficient insulation to assist while soldering.Electrical multi-core solder is preferable to avoid corrosion. If you have a friendly electrician you can possibly even get wiring offcuts left over from jobs. trustytrev.

Hello, What about permanent marker pens.I have used it on the bright metal parts on locomotives and it seems to do the job. trustytrev.

Hello, If it says Unfollow this topic does that mean I already am? trustytrev.

Hello, It would be 280 if I could figure out how to follow as I look for it whenever I am on. trustytrev.

Hello, Gordon's post showing gauges: I think left and right have been transposed.The view of the image on my pc is, so I am assuming everyone else's is. The definition of 00FS is simply plug and play OO gauge, or take it out of the box and run it. Including locomotives. O gauge, N gauge, or any other gauge will not. Or some ancient antiquity purporting to be OO gauge (Triang or HD? What could be clearer? trustytrev.