gaf2u

Nelson Maligned and all as that auction site may be, I have purchased quite a number via same over the past while in pursuit of a good one (or two!!!). A couple of pointers I have found worthwhile: 1) International postage on ebay.com items from the US is prohibitive, but if you have any friends or relatives resident there, you can secure some good bargains by having items posted to within the 50 states, and then forwarded to you privately. I have done this with success. 2) Search for geometry sets rather than simply pens or compasses, and if you're lucky you can secure some great sets that will have both pen or pens, and spring bow compasses, dividers etc 3) I have found that searches under the following manufacturers usually bear fruit: Haff Kern Leitz K&E (Keuffel and Esser) Dietzgen The Haff and Kern instruments are particularly good. I have also purchased directly from Haff in Germany, but it can be a little cumbersome as payment is only via bank transfer. 4) If you're brave, the best deals by far are to be had on ebay.de. I have used Google translate to great effect, and purchased a number of sets and items from Germany via the German ebay. Once you find the item you want, try and search for it on ebay.co.uk (this used to be straightforward via searching for the article number, but ebay no longer quote these on item pages for some reason) to view the page in English. The prices from Germany are nowhere near as inflated as the UK or US, and postage is very reasonable. It just requires a little patience and effort. One word of caution - not all German sellers accept Paypal - you may have to do a transfer via IBAN / BIC, which is still not too bad. Happy hunting Darren

Ian, The T1 is no less fantastic than I would have expected. It has been quite a while, and between summer holidays and 5 weeks travelling abroad for work, it has meant that there has been very limited time for painting and lining. I have finally finished the Jubilee and tender, and have included a few shots below, and some commentary on things that went well, and some that were not so!!! Ian – I’ll give offset lining a bash on the splashers for my next painting project (there’s a long queue) – I’m still only mastering the compass. The transfers did turn out well though, albeit there’s a bit of work in them. I’ll run through things chronologically as best I can – some of the photos are taking under artificial light, so I apologies in advance for the colour! Made the transfers up using Xtra Decal A4 sheet with a good generous coat of Phoenix Precision gloss Crimson Lake airbrushed onto it. I had a sheet of Fox’s lining transfers, and cheated a little in that I used these to approximate the splasher diameter for the Jubilee, and a Princess, and a Coronation separately. I then made plastic-card templates of the segments which form the face of the splashers, using the aforementioned diameters. Once the templates were sized properly, using my compass and lining head, I then drew a circle of the required diameter onto the painted transfer using Humbrol Gloss Black, drew the chord in Gloss black to form the segment (with a lining pen), and once dry, completed the yellow line inside the back perimeter of the segment similarly. I lined parallel black and yellow straight lines on the transfer sheet too (for lower rear of the tender behind the lamp irons), along with plain yellow for the firebox and smokebox lining on the loco. I lined the footplate, cab and steps using the compass, yellow first followed by black. All went reasonably well, albeit the external radius if the footplate beneath the cab front doesn’t exactly match the yellow curve line I required on the cab lower front (this is a K’s Kit). I’ve found that lifting any yellow error with the Windsor and Newton Series 7 brush and white spirit almost always leaves a slight residue on the Crimson Lake, so I try as best possible to minimise any error fixing brush strokes. Starting to look the part! I manually painted the top of the footplate, and tops of the splashers, prior to applying any of the splasher transfers as folows. I then started with the tender rear, lowermost line. I cut out my yellow/black pairing from the Xtra Decal sheet. I wasn’t sure if it was like HMRS transfers and you just lift the surface layer from the backing paper, or cut through like old Airfix waterslide decals, so I cut through, making sure that my cut was tight to the external edge of the lines on the sheet i.e. minimal if any Crimson Lake on the transfer. I then cut this into 4 parts, to fit between the lamp irons and vacuum pipe, and applied them using warm water to separate the transfer from the backing sheet, and Microsol applied liberally to the tender. I have to say I was amazed at how the Microsol got the transfer to suck down into the contours of the jointing plates on the tender – it came out really well. Rear sides and top lined by pen, bottom as a transfer I then went at the smokebox and firebox lining. For some reason I decided to only partially cut through the Xtra Decal and lift the smokebox lining off the backing paper. This made it very flimsy, but I cut it into three and again using warm water and Microsol on the boiler, applied it. The only tricky bit was getting a small portion to wrap around the pipe on the left side of the boiler. The firebox lining didn’t go so well – same method except that I cut fully through the Xtra Decal this time, made three parts. However this time the transfer puckered up in places about 1-2 minutes post application. I brushed on more Microsol thinking this would help it settle down and it did improve things overnight, but there remained some very very slight puckering, only barely noticeable. Next to the splashers – using an Olfa cutter and scalpel I cut out the segments, and these went on beautifully. The only problem I encountered was that in having to scribe / cut out the segments using multiple passes of the Olfa cutters on the transfer sheets, I was left with a few tiny tiny slivers of stringy transfer at some places on the edge of my segments. If these happened to get under the transfer as it was being applied, it made for a pronounced bump in the surface of the transfer. I had to lift two transfers post application, and remove such slivers. HMRS Pressfix transfers were applied as per the Methfix method i.e. cut out, separated from the backing sheet, applied to a pre-wetted (with dilute meths) area as required, and then soaked in the diluted meths and pressed firmly into place. All well with this (I like these transfers, although positioning numbers in series is tricky because the carrier film isn’t quite transparent). Once transfers were applied, I added nameplates, numbers etc. and set-about getting ready to varnish. I pulled the smokebox line partially off while cleaning down the loco surface with white spirits and a lint free cloth (to get rid of my greasy finger prints), but re-fixed it successfully with Microsol. Lined and transfers – the garish glossy finish will be toned down by varnishing as follows I used Ronseal Matt and Satin polyurethane varnish, mixed 3:2 Matt:Satin, and then thinned 50:50 with white spirit. I prefer a finish much more toward satin than gloss, and this ratio has worked for me previously on freight locos – this is my first time using it on a lined passenger loco. Once I started spraying, I had my “oh-crap” moment. I had stirred the varnish well, and set about first varnishing the tender side, with my air pressure set at the usual 25 Psi (while spraying i.e. the trigger is depressed). The varnish appeared to have lots of tiny particles in it, and my beautiful gloss surface was now no longer smooth and blemish free! I then reduced the pressure to 20Psi and sprayed more slowly, with first wetting and then flooding the surfaces. The other side of the tender was better, and the loco was good but not perfect – very very slightly orangey peely! As one does, I checked the proverbial “instructions” in Ian’s Painting and lining bible afterwards, and noticed that he recommends a pressure of 40Psi for varnishing, and using only Ronseal gloss with some matting agent added. RTFM !!!!! You can judge yourselves from the photos – I’d probably give it a B, but definitely not an A. I haven’t had this problem when varnishing previously, so I’m open any suggestions ye might have as to how to achieve a more homogenous and smooth surface. I haven’t figured out the best way to initially paint / treat valve gear as yet, but I’m booked into Missenden in Spring, so I’ll be taking the Jubilee over there then for some weathering with Mick Bonwick, and will address all that bright shiny metalwork as part of same. Cheers Darren

Iain, Many thanks for your encouraging words. If it helps get you kick started, I'm already learning each time I try over the past few days, and I can already see improvements too. I lined the other side of the tender last night and this morning (last job before we load up the car and head off for a weeks vacation) and I was much happier than with the first side. Couple of new notes to self: 1) I was using the Phoenix yellow slightly too thick I think - I stir with a cocktail stick and then lift it out and let the paint run off it, only using the last stubborn drop (usually drop #5) in the bow pen. This time I didn't wait for this last drop, but used paint from drop 4. Made a huge difference in the paint flowing for the line, particularly over my problematic rivets at the top of the tank. 2) I drew the yellow line for the base of the tender tank (above the chassis frames) too low, leaving next to no room for the subsequent black line. I got away with it, but just about Here's the second side, and I'm "chuffed" as you say. I'm hoping you'll give it a try too - best of luck, and I'm looking forward to seeing your results. I'm going to think about a transfer for the lower rear of the tender now (behind the lamp irons) - I've already sprayed a sheet of XTra Decal with Crimson Lake. I've been mulling over how to make splasher decals for the locos (Duchess, Princess and Jubilee). Ian Rathbone suggests trial and error, but I'm wondering about making a template (should have done this during construction) and trying to see if I can work it out using compasses and trigonometry (intersection of the bisectors of two chords of the arc) Darren

Now that I've tried plain black livery, I got even braver and thought I'd try lining Crimson Lake!! I've a number of models in this livery awaiting completion, having started spraying post Missenden with Ian. First baby step lining in this regard is a tender for a Jubilee that has waited patiently for some finishing TLC for some years now. I struggled a little with the offset lining using the compass - Ian's recommendation to always do corners first is a help, but the cut-outs in the chassis frame, and along the tender top defied me (the rivets, whihc ran right up to the lip killed me, as per Ian's prior note, because the pen bounced over them). I found that I had to check and adjust the compass setting every so often - I'm guessing because I kept changing the angle at which I was holding it. I'm much more comfortable with my Kern pen, than the compass, but practice, practice, practice..... Again the jig was invaluable - I could spin the model around on the bench instantly to suit my position and hand, and everything is rock steady lying on the bench. I used Phoenix Yellow which flows nicely, and Humbrol Gloss black which was much less viscous by comparison (with poorer coverage too). It took some adjusting moving from one to the other. The Windsor and Newton Series 7 00 brush is the most invaluable tool of the lot - with some patience it helps clean up what might look like a lost cause into something approximating a neat line. I'm really surprised at the difference I can make when cleaning up lines with it. The camera can be cruel......

Took a while - I've been collecting a brace of engines on my painting bench, so finally bit the bullet and got permission from SWMBO to spend the first 3 days of the holidays finishing them. I need to install pick-ups, and trim the crank pins on the Austin 7, but otherwise good to go! Here's her sister, the G2a, just finished similarly.

Ian, Here you go!!! I had to laugh. Mind you, I passed on lining the front of the tanks. The chassis is on a workbench in my other house, so haven't got it to hand. I'm really pleased with this one, particularly for an old K's kit. Here she is all numbered and plated up

Well I finally managed to bite the bullet. Post Missenden with Ian Rathbone, and having collected a number of old drawing sets via ebay, and messed around with them on some painted flat brass sheet, I took the plunge and decided to try and line a locomotive. First job was to construct a fixture per that Ian describes in his Painting and Lining book - this was a godsend as it meant that both hands were free at all times, and the loco was held rock steady. The victim was a K's Fowler 2-6-2t tank, painted a base coat of black satin acrylic from a Halfords rattle can. Above - Loco attached to the holding fixture (flat surface that sits over the bracketry is omitted), along with my dividers, compass and ruling pen. The result - I'm pretty chuffed with it although doubtless there's room for improvement around consistency and thickness of the line. My setting out is probably somewhat inaccurate too, but for a first pass I'm really happy Darren

Jazz, Just referring back a few pages - I didn't pick up on who manufactured the parallel boiler Royal Scott kit that you did your usual excellent job of completing? Could you clarify? Thanks a mil Darren

All, I was fortunate enough to actually attend Ian Rathbone's session at Missenden just a few weeks ago and it was fantastic. I thoroughly enjoyed it, and he demystified a huge amount around painting and lining for me, not to mention honing and setting up my pens and compasses. I've a long way to go to get anyways good at this (practice, practice and more practice), but it was a great start and has given me the push to give it a go for myself if nothing else. I'm going back again for Mick Bonwicks weathering session next time - the guys in that class were doing some great stuff too! I'd wholeheartedly recommend Ian's session to anyone considering giving it a go, but lacking the confidence to actually start! Darren

Final assembly has been a long time coming, between summer holidays, work travel, Christmas and so forth (along with avoiding the ire of SWMBO by disappearing to the workbench too often) I'finished the 7F, and then decided that a sister in the form of a G2a would be nice to accompany her! Hence the Mercian model in the images below. It made it further down the painting queue too. I'm going to Missenden in March for some painting tuition, so will most likely take the 7F along to same for my 'apprenticeship'. First the 7F, with CSB chassis wheeled, painted and motorised. Used a 1426 motor and 38:1 Comet GB5 and DE50 extender as they fitted nicely between the frames. I didn't clean it prior to the photo, so apologies on that front. Apologies for the deviation from the thread topic now, but a Super D G2a isn't a mile away from the Austin 7, arguably the elder sister! The Mercian loco and tender. This was a slow one to build, in part because it was my first time building this loco, along with the kit itself requiring more time than others I'm more used to (not helped by scant instructions). Accompanied by Comet chassis (CSB fitted), 1424 motor, High Level SLC+ gearbox and drive extender, and excellent Bill Bedford coupling rods. I love the assembly approach for these - so simple and effective. Now with loco and tender coated with etch primer. I did some filling to the boiler whitemetal castings, but more to do there, and around tender top. Overall the quality of all of the whitemetal castings was only OK. I replaced the buffers with Gibson spring ones, which look much better. Post final assembly. The firebox can only take the 1424 motor and no flywheel, so will see in due course how this performs whenever I get to building a layout. Very happy with the final result, regardless of the time and effort required to get there. Ironic that I could go to Warley and buy a Bachman equivalent for £90 just after finishing this one. Such is life....

Brossard I've enjoyed reading your thread and it has prompted me to finally take down one of the coach kits I've been storing on the shelf for many years. I've made a number of engines, but never a coach as yet, although I've always been a keen reader of Coachman's fantastic threads. Thus, I've lifted down a Comet Stove R kit, and the pictures and info you've cataloged above have been invaluable in helping me take the plunge. I'm still debating how to handle the centre axle, and whether or not to use the Comet supplied arrangement, or the Brassmasters Cleminson solution. In the mean time I've started on the superstructure, per below, using a separate Comet detailing fret for the hinges, and Coachman's tip for the doorstops. Progress will be slow as I only get to the bench periodically, but I'll post again in due coarse. Going to Missenden for some painting tuition in March, so I'd love to have it ready for then. Coach sides, with all fittings except T handles (on order from Wizard Models)

Been a while, between travel for work and family events. Anyway, finally finished (well practically - whistle and lamp irons missing) the engine and can now place it beside the tender for a look-see. It is a lovely kit, but challenging insofar as the boiler tube is quite a heavy gauge (about 1mm wall thickness) and is therefore a significant heat sink. Thus soldering anything to it, even with my 75 watt iron takes time and effort. It is quite long too so I couldn't get my iron into the back of the smokebox door to solder it in situ, and had to do so from the outside which is messy. I took Coachman's advice again and left off the etched boiler bands, in part because again it was so difficult to solder them to the heavy boiler tube, and also because I've used tape instead before for perfectly satisfactory results. Here you go anyways. Major superstructure items in place RHS with all detail attached From the front - fitted handles and piston rod covers as advised earlier in this thread Paired up with the tender It's off to the chassis now. Intend on a CSB approach, but will have to see which axle I can drive first from a motor located in the firebox. Hopefully the last one, beneath the cab. Darren

Michael I've read your thread with interest as I too complete a Gibson 7F kit. Your finished model looks fantastic, and has spurred me to drive ahead and finish mine. There were some really useful insights from both your and Coachman through the thread and I've taken you up on suggestions as follows, and per photo's attached. 1) I formed and fitted a 1.5mm square section all around the inside of the firebox front joint, to enable me form a rounded rather than square edge on the outside. I'm delighted with the result, so thanks to your club colleague for that suggestion. 2) I took Coachman's advice around adding two small sections at right angles to and inside the rear of the cab-sides to facilitate the handrail and strengthen the cab itself. 3) Likewise, I added a formed stiffening rib to the underside of the can roof. It is oversized compared to the real thing in one of your photos, but has made the roof considerably more rigid. I love the Gibson kits but I do have to take my time forming the likes of the can roof and firebox surround to get them right. It is always worth the effort. I've included a shot of the completed tender superstructure for the 7F, along with Gibson and London Road Models Jinty's that I've completed in past months (both with CSB suspension). There's a queue forming at the paintshop!! I've made up a 3rd coupling rod for each side, and this will allow me split the kit supplied etches and form knuckles at each crankpin to facilitate a CSB suspension on the 7F too (see 1st photo). I'll post again when I make some more progress, but my bench attendance is sporadic, so could be a while. Thanks again for a great thread. Darren

Excellent thread, let's not stop now as this is bar far the most substantive and informative discussion on ruling pens I've yet seen. Yep, Ian R's book is good, but I'm afraid I have to trump it with some obsequious compliments to Larry. Truly magnificant work, my only regret being I can't afford to buy any of your commissions. Gaf

OzzyO Answers to your questions: 1] did you use the fluid warm about 50 deg. - Yes, charged unit with water off the boil, and it has an onboard heater too. 2] to degaus, run the U/S/C for about 5min. with out the basket in it. - Thanks, will try this next time 3} what sort of cleaning fluid is it, acid or alkaline? - James Products Sea Clean, pH approx 2.5 (acidic) so doesn't explain the tarnishing per Bill and the other posters, who suggest that alkalinity may be my problem 4] to empty the tank get a syphon tube to empty the tank.. - Fair point, my gripe was simply that it is messy tipping the unit over, especially if you ant to collect the fluid for reuse (even with the help of a funnel) Fancy trying Copalus if I can find some over here Cheers Gaf

I have since received and tried out the one from Amazon for approx £88 or so, along with the recommended cleaning agent for an additional £8. I'm afraid I am pretty disappointed. Tried it at the recommended concentration, for repeated periods up to the maximum on some of her jewelry, and one of my kits (separately of course). The result - will the jewelry looked no different, and some of the crud on it remained in situ. The kit - well some of the brass came out more tarnished than when it went in, and the whitemetal surface has a myriad of tiny pit marks on it. Nothing serious, but definitely not clean! The fluid was almost as clean coming out as when first put in too. BTW - there's no drain, so you have to invert the unit to empty it, which is messy! Maybe should have saved for longer and bought a better unit! Any hints? This unit doesn't have a degassing function, so I'm not sure if this has a bearing on performance. Should I boil the water first prior to use? Cheers Gaf

I'm sold (and so is SWMBO once I mentioned that it cleans jewellery too) - compliments to iak and Worsdell, just ordered on Amazon! I have a little brass Mercian Andrew Barclay 0-4-0 st that I am almost finished and is ripe for a trial run...... Will post before and after pictures once unit arrives.

Lovely work on the Fairburn, looking forward to seeing the chassis progress I've just gone and ordered a bottle of that magic flux you have all been raving about. I too am getting a little fed up of the fumes and oxidation which accompany other fluxes, and so am willing to try something new. I have found that the Frys flux, although kinder to my lungs, leaves a tacky residue after use which requires a little scrubbing to really shift, so if this one is as easy as you say it is, well h'alleluia